Placeholder Image

Subtitles section Play video

  • Although the Kamakura Shogunate lasted a century and a half,

  • creating a medieval system of government that lasted until the 19th century,

  • the downfall of Kamakura as the capital has its roots in the aftermath of the death

  • of the very first ruling Shogun.

  • As he approached adulthood, a time when he would

  • assume power for himself, the second shogun, Yoriie, was sidelined,

  • and eventually exiled, by the Hojo family.

  • And he was found, murdered in the bath, in his place of exile, in the Izu peninsula.

  • Yoriie had a son, Kazuhata. But he never became shogun,

  • because the Hojo family killed him,

  • his mother, and his mother's family, the Hiki family.

  • And the only survivor of this slaughter of the Hiki family, and the rightful shogun

  • was Yoshimoto Hiki. And he came here, and built this temple, and this tomb,

  • as a memorial, to his murdered family.

  • Although the Hojo installed Yoriie's younger brother,

  • he would prove to be the last Minamoto ruler...

  • On a bleak and snowy midwinter night in 1219, the third Minamoto shogun, Sanetomo

  • was leaving a Shinto ceremony, at the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine,

  • when a figure, brandishing a sword leapt out at him, from behind one of the ancient gingko trees,

  • and decapitated the last Minamoto shogun.

  • The assassin was Kugyo, son of the second shogun,

  • who shouted 'I am Kugyo, avenging the death of my father!'.

  • The deaths of the second and third shoguns left power in the hands

  • of the Hojo clan, who ruled with the backing of the samurai, whose support

  • the Hojo had carefully solicited, nurtured, and gained.

  • Yet after these early power struggles, the Hojo, with the backing of the samurai brought

  • peace, justice, and security to Japan. And the Kamakura Shogunate saw off

  • all opposition, at home and abroad.

  • From the time of the zenith of Hojo power,

  • just after the Mongol wars, the Shogunate began to neglect the samurai though.

  • And this would prove to be a disastrous mistake. For when it became clear that

  • the Mongols were never returning, the samurai turned their attention and their resentment

  • towards Kamakura...

  • Episode 4: Sunset of the Shoguns - Kamakura's decline.

  • The Hojo lords of Kamakura, like their Minamoto predecessors were

  • patrons of Buddhism. But in the Hojo era, many new forms of Buddhism arose,

  • the most famous of which was Zen.

  • This Zen temple, Dentsu-ji, like many temples, carries the insignia of the Hojo family.

  • These Daruma dolls are named after Bodhidharma, the founder of Zen Buddhism.

  • He was an Indian monk who traveled in China. And he preached that meditation

  • was the best way to reach enlightenment. And he believed it to such an extent that

  • it was said he sat facing a wall, meditating for 10 years, and lost the use

  • of his legs, his arms, and his eyes - that's why the dolls look like this.

  • So people buy these dolls and paint the eyes back in, hoping to get good luck

  • or have a dream come true. But don't paint both eyes in, mind - paint the last one in,

  • when your dream comes true.

  • This is the Daruma doll scrapheap. I guess most people's dreams came true,

  • who threw these dolls away...

  • Zen Buddhism appealed to the samurai, in ways that

  • earlier forms of Buddhism didn't,

  • with its emphasis on single-minded action, rather than esoteric abstraction.

  • Unlike earlier esoteric forms of Buddhism,

  • focused on our place in a cosmological structure, with exoteric planes,

  • Buddhas of this,

  • Buddhas of that,

  • Zen emphasized the necessity to take responsibility

  • for one's own enlightenment, and making sense of the material universe through one's own efforts.

  • To the samurai - these medieval men of action - Zen caught on like wildfire.

  • No town in the world - even Kyoto, even in China - is more synonymous now with Zen, than Kamakura.

  • Hojo Tokimune, the leader of the Shogunate during the Mongol wars

  • had gained courage and sustenance, from Zen, during the Mongol invasions and had

  • built a grand temple - Engaku-ji - to celebrate the final defeat of the Mongols.

  • But it was this insistence on the part of the Shogunate,

  • to reward temples and shrines, monks and priests, over samurai, that caused such a ruinous rift...

  • Suenaga Takezaki - a samurai - who had, by his own account, defended against,

  • repelled, and slaughtered Mongols, and manned the defenses for 20 more years,

  • in case they ever returned, went to Kamakura, taking with him a pictorial scroll,

  • depicting his valiant deeds...

  • Suenaga Takezaki asked the Shogunate to reward him - a loyal samurai - for his

  • decades of faithful service to the Shogunate and Japan.

  • But no reward was forthcoming, to Takezaki, or to any samurai.

  • The Shogunate, in placing credit for victory against the Mongols

  • squarely with the Kamikaze wind and the gods

  • only rewarded the temples and shrines whose monks and priests

  • had prayed for victory...

  • But this neglect of the samurai would prove to be disastrous, for the Kamakura Shogunate.

  • The Kamikaze wind may have caused havoc among the Mongol fleets,

  • but it was the samurai, who delivered the knockout blows.

  • What did they benefit?

  • Little, if anything.

  • Hojo Masako had rallied the samurai, in the early days of the Kamakura Shogunate.

  • But her later kinsmen would neglect them.

  • Samurai discontent was given shape by the rebellion of Go-Daigo, the emperor.

  • A coalition arose, between Go-Daigo and a warlord, Nitta Yoshisada -

  • a distant relation of the Minamoto - who both felt that the Hojo had no legitimacy,

  • and were usurpers of the Shogunate.

  • Ever since the Emperor Go-Toba's unsuccessful uprising against the Shogunate, in 1221,

  • the Hojo had kept a close eye on the imperial house - often deciding who succeeded who as emperor.

  • But in 1331, the first serious imperial uprising in over a century took place,

  • when the emperor Go-Daigo refused to step down, and rose in open revolt.

  • Like his predecessor Go-Toba, Go-Daigo's first rebellion failed, because as we've seen,

  • imperial forces were no match for samurai.

  • But this was a different age.

  • Go-Toba could never find enough disgruntled samurai - the warriors stayed loyal,

  • to Hojo Masako, and Kamakura.

  • But in Go-Daigo's time, there were plenty of disgruntled samurai...

  • Samurai resentment, on being neglected by the Hojo

  • was compounded, by the degenerate behavior of the Hojo leaders...

  • This schoolyard stands on the site,

  • where one of the most debauched acts of the decadent Hojo Takatoki,

  • the last ruler of Kamakura used to enact - for it was here

  • he would stage dog fights...

  • Disaster struck for the Shogunate, when its greatest general, Ashikaga Takauji,

  • switched sides, and placed his allegiance to the emperor.

  • And this rebellion against the Shogunate would gather pace,

  • for when Ashikaga Takauji liberated the Emperor Go-Daigo from his exile,

  • and marched together with him, on the imperial capital of Kyoto,

  • Nitta Yoshisada, a man who claimed kinship with the earlier Minamoto shoguns,

  • raised a force of over 40,000 samurai,

  • and headed for Kamakura...

  • And it was to this headland that Nitta Yoshisada came,

  • at the behest of Emperor Go-Daigo, and stood on the cape,

  • and looked out towards the shogun's capital, of Kamakura...

  • Yoshisada was within sight of the shogun's capital,

  • but as he was to find out, getting into the city itself was another proposition entirely...

  • These narrow passes, cut in the rocks, had served the Shogunate well,

  • for a century and a half and now

  • would thwart Nitta Yoshisada, as he tried to enter the city...

  • Despite vastly superior numbers, Nitta Yoshisada could not get into

  • Kamakura.

  • Time and time again, wave after wave of samurai, under Nitta Yoshisada attacked

  • the defenses - the narrow mountain passes - to the west, north, and east of Kamakura,

  • but time and time again, the Hojo defenders held firm...

  • Perhaps, as a kinsman of the Minamoto, Nitta Yoshisada was familiar

  • with the legend of Ichi no Tani, where the dashing general, Yoshitsune

  • had attacked the Taira stronghold, from the mountains, by drawing their attention

  • with a fake feint along the coast...

  • If Nitta Yoshisada did know this story,

  • he turned it on its head, because as he left the majority of his army,

  • to continue attacking the mountain passes into Kamakura, Yoshisada led a smaller force,

  • down from the hills, towards the coast,

  • at Inamuragasaki...

  • So Yoshisada came down from the well-defended western passes, here,

  • to Cape Inamuragasaki.

  • But of course he wouldn't be able to get around here, because

  • it's the Western Wall of Kamakura - it juts right out into the sea.

  • So to get around here, with 15,000 men would be impossible.

  • Or would it..?

  • Praying to the sun goddess, and offering up his sword,

  • and throwing it into the sea,

  • Yoshisada waited, to see what would happen next...

  • And what happened next was the tide started to go out, to a low level,

  • like nobody had ever seen before.

  • Yoshisada and his men seized the moment,

  • and waded around the cape...

  • As Yoshisada and his men came around the cape, there were Hojo warships,

  • stationed in the bay.

  • But Yoshisada's men stayed close to the shoreline,

  • and attacked Kamakura from the south...

  • This street was actually where the Kamakura Shogunate was located.

  • And this temple - Hokai-ji - was the headquarters of the Hojo family.

  • After running up Wakamiya Oji Dori, Yoshisada's army arrived here,

  • at the Hojo stronghold.

  • Takatoki and his men had already retreated,

  • so Yoshisada ordered that the Hojo stronghold be burned to the ground.

  • Takatoki, and the warriors who'd stayed faithful to him ran to the back of Tosho-ji temple,

  • to here - these caves, but realizing they were vastly outnumbered, maybe twenty-to-one,

  • and that there was no escape,

  • they took out their hara-kiri knives...

  • Yoshisada, and his invading army left the Hojo stronghold in flames, and ran up here,

  • past Tosho-ji temple, towards the caves...

  • When Yoshisada and his men arrived at the caves, they found...

  • 870 dead samurai.

  • The Kamakura Shogunate was at an end.

  • Good to see that it's not just mock Beverly Hills mansions

  • that dot the streets of Kamakura.

  • You do get lovely streets like this,

  • that evoke a bygone time...

  • Having found streets and districts where Kamakura samurai used to live,

  • I developed something of a bee in my bonnet, and I thought "Ooh, I really must find

  • some actual samurai houses from the Kamakura period!" Well I'm glad I checked this book,

  • 'An Introduction to Japanese Architecture' by David and Michiko Young, before I embarked

  • on what would have been a wild goose chase, because it informs me that

  • there are no samurai houses from the Kamakura period - not just in Kamakura, and its environs - not anywhere!

  • The fact that no Kamakura era samurai houses survive is an

  • indication of the conflicts and conflagrations that marked the end of the period.

  • But luckily, for posterity,

  • many Kamakura period temples can still be visited.

  • The samurai would build zen temples all over Kamakura

  • - fine, aesthetically pleasing gardens, and places where they could

  • perform the tea ceremony, to soothe their warrior spirits.

  • This temple, Hokoku-ji - the bamboo temple - was founded by two

  • powerful Kamakura warrior families: the Ashikaga; and the Uesugi family.

  • And both these families would have a continued and lasting impact on Kamakura,

  • and Japanese history - the first by bringing the period of Hojo rule to a close,

  • and founding a new dynasty of shoguns; and the second by bringing the

  • period of Kamakura's political importance to a close...

  • I'm wearing my Japan shirt, today - I'm in a stronghold of imperialist sympathy and sentiment.

  • This place is very 'deer' to me...

  • Although the Hojo stronghold was destroyed in 1333,

  • and with it, in Go-Daigo's hands, imperial power was restored,

  • for the first time in centuries, Takauji Ashikaga,

  • whose defection had brought about Go-Daigo's restoration and the downfall of the Shogunate

  • himself decided to make a play for power - capturing Prince Morinaga,

  • the son of Go-Daigo, and bringing him here, to the Ashikaga stronghold in East Kamakura,

  • passing him on to his kinsmen - who then held the prince hostage -

  • Ashikaga Takauji made a bid to be Shogun.

  • But it wasn't just the Ashikaga,

  • and loyalists of Go-Daigo who were in this fight. The son of the last Hojo regent

  • also tried to retake Kamakura. And when he invaded in July of 1335,

  • Prince Morinaga was killed, in the ensuing melee.

  • Go-Daigo's reign as ruling emperor didn't last long.

  • He was overthrown and sent into exile, by Ashikaga Takauji,

  • who began his own dynasty of shoguns.

  • Imperial forces and samurai, loyal to Go-Daigo carried on the fight bravely,

  • and cleverly, for the next 60 years - but by that time, the Emperor Go-Daigo,

  • and Takauji Ashikaga were long dead.

  • And Takauji didn't stay in Kamakura long - he moved the Shogunate

  • to Kyoto, to better control the puppet emperors that he installed there.

  • But Takauji did leave behind power in Kamakura, to his own son who became governor...

  • During the period of the governors, the five greatest Zen temples

  • of Kamakura were officially ranked: here in the north of the city,

  • (1) Kencho-ji,

  • (2) Engaku-ji,

  • and across the mountain behind me,

  • (3) Jufuku-ji

  • - the place where Yoritomo's father resided - and where the temple Jufuku-ji was built,

  • by Masako, in memory of her husband, the first shogun,

  • and (4) Jochi-ji,

  • and in the east of Kamakura, the stronghold of the Ashikaga clan,

  • the fifth of Kamakura's five great Zen temples,

  • (5) Jomyo-ji.

  • The Ashikaga governors of Kamakura formally ranked the five greatest temples in the city

  • as the 'Kamakura Go-zan'.

  • And when the Ashikaga governors' kinsmen, the Ashikaga shoguns,

  • moved to Kyoto, they took Zen with them, to spectacular effect...

  • And so, the Ashikaga dynasty moved the Shogunate

  • from Kamakura, to the Muromachi district of north-west Kyoto. And it was here,

  • they oversaw and enabled a cultural and artistic zenith in Japanese history -

  • an architectural golden age - literally.

  • Kinkaku-ji.

  • But while the Ashikaga shoguns were turning Kyoto into the artistic capital of Japan, elsewhere,

  • they were losing their grip. War broke out in all parts of Japan even spilling onto

  • the streets of Kyoto. And while the Ashikaga kept control of Kyoto, just,

  • huge swathes of Japan, including Kamakura, were up for grabs...

  • And here, at Zuisen-ji temple, can be told the story of the second downfall,

  • of Kamakura...

  • Even the governors of Kamakura themselves - kinsmen of the shoguns -

  • made their own play for power, defying the authority of the Shogunate, and trying to

  • reinstate Kamakura, not only as capital of the East, but as capital of the Shogunate once again.

  • But the plans and dreams of the governors were thwarted, by the powerful Uesugi clan

  • - a Kamakura warrior family who, acting as Shogun's deputies

  • first forced the governor of Kamakura, Mochiuji, to commit suicide in 1439,

  • and then, in 1445, driving his son, Nariuji - the last governor of Kamakura - into exile...

  • Kamakura became what it had been seven centuries before -

  • nothing more than a fishing village...

  • Kamakura lost any semblance of political importance, and not long after

  • Japan was wracked, by a century of bitter civil wars.

  • This was the age of the warlord,

  • and of the castle...

  • During this century of ruinous civil wars, Kyoto was almost completely destroyed.

  • But Kamakura, and the East were spared the worst ravages of these wars,

  • because at Odawara, 30 miles west along the coast from Kamakura,

  • a new, powerful family arose - a new Hojo family.

  • And from their stronghold in Odawara,

  • they kept Kamakura and the surrounding domains safe and peaceful for a century.

  • And they administered Kamakura from their castle, Tamanawa-jo,

  • on the northern borders of Kamakura city, overlooking the Tokaido Highway.

  • And while this second Hojo family kept relative peace in the east,

  • elsewhere, it was turmoil, with warlord pitted against warlord.

  • Two of the most famous of these warlords - Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin - were at odds for decades,

  • vying for power, by fair means or foul,

  • until one day, Takeda hit upon an idea, to finish his rival Uesugi, once and for all,

  • and he hired a band of ninjas...

  • While most of the ninjas created a diversion, for which they paid with their lives,

  • the one remaining ninja

  • crept, into Uesugi's castle...

  • The last surviving ninja that Takeda had sent,

  • having got into Uesugi's castle undetected, climbed into the drains,

  • crawled towards Uesugi's living quarters, and waited for his lord's mortal enemy...

  • to answer nature's call...

  • Eventually, after a hundred years of bloodshed,

  • betrayal, and subterfuge, a series of powerful warlords came along,

  • to finally begin the process of reunifying Japan...

  • The Ashikaga shoguns in Kyoto,

  • powerless to stop this century of bloodshed were finally dismissed,

  • by a mighty warlord called Oda Nobunaga.

  • But he himself was caught up in the cycle of violence.

  • However, his successor, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, from his power base in Osaka

  • finally brought peace to Japan.

  • Toyotomi Hideyoshi brought virtually all of Japan under his control,

  • including the Hojo stronghold here at Odawara,

  • which surrendered to him, when he came down from the mountains, behind me.

  • Because of their comparatively humble origins, neither Nobunaga nor Hideyoshi

  • could or would claim the title of Shogun.

  • But their successor, Tokugawa Ieyasu,

  • who completed the reunification of Japan, claimed he was related,

  • to Minamoto no Yoritomo.

  • This unassuming road below me is 'National Route 1',

  • which in medieval times was called 'The Tokaido Highway',

  • And it linked the western cities of Osaka,

  • and the imperial capital of Kyoto,

  • to the shoguns' capitals, here in the East - first Kamakura,

  • and later, the capital of the Tokugawa, Edo,

  • which is about 30 miles to the north-east, along this road...

  • The Tokugawa family - the last dynasty of shoguns,

  • set up their headquarters at the mighty fortress of Edo Castle.

  • Edo Castle, the stronghold of these new Tokugawa shoguns, was the

  • largest fortress in the world. And by 1700, the city that grew up around it

  • had a population of over a million.

  • To keep potential opposition suppressed,

  • the Tokugawa Shogunate compelled all regional lords to attend Edo every two years,

  • and in the alternate years that they did not attend, their families

  • had to stay here, in Edo, as 'guests' of the Shogun.

  • These valleys, hills, and mountains run the length of the Miura peninsula.

  • I'm on the east side - over the hills to the west, is Kamakura.

  • I'm climbing up these valleys to the top to visit

  • a monument to a samurai, who was once lord of this domain.

  • But no ordinary samurai.

  • A blue-eyed samurai.

  • In 1600,

  • a ship from a distant land was washed onto the shores of Japan, in a storm.

  • On this Dutch ship was an English navigator -

  • a man from Kent - called William Adams. A remarkable and talented man,

  • who became a Foreign Affairs adviser and friend to the Shogun, Ieyasu.

  • Ieyasu regarded William Adams with such high esteem and affection,

  • that he rewarded him with this domain, Hemi,

  • where this monument now stands,

  • and gave him the Japanese name 'Miura Anjin'.

  • But Adams would be pretty much the last foreigner allowed to reside

  • and live in Japan, where he saw out his days, respected, well-regarded,

  • but, in the words of W.S. Morton,

  • longing for his home, and looking out over the sea,

  • which was the source of his fortune and his sorrow.

  • But his legend lives on...

  • in stories, from Gulliver's Travels,

  • to James Clavell's 'Shogun'.

  • Although he was the first European to attain the rank of samurai,

  • William Adams would also prove to be the last. the Tokugawa Shogunate got wind

  • of the colonial and spiritual ambitions of Catholic Spain and Portugal,

  • banning those powers and their religion from Japan on pain of death.

  • The only foreign power allowed into Japanese waters were the Dutch,

  • who were afforded a small trading post at Nagasaki.

  • Living up to their job title, the early Tokugawa shoguns did indeed save Japan

  • from the barbarians. But this would mean that the country would not experience

  • the Renaissance or the Enlightenment and would be locked,

  • in a protracted medieval twilight...

  • Yet despite Japan being closed to the outside world, the country

  • continued to thrive, economically and culturally, under the Tokugawa shoguns...

  • A flaw, in the Kamakura Shogunate had been that if a branch of the family line

  • died out - in the case of the Minamoto, Yoritomo, his sons, and grandsons -

  • the shogunal succession would come to a grinding halt...

  • It took Masako and the Hojo years, to find somebody - in the end a great-nephew

  • of Yoritomo, to succeed, as Shogun.

  • The Tokugawa addressed this potential problem, by creating sub-branches,

  • in Wakayama, and Mito,

  • away from Edo, at a safe distance. Both the Wakayama and Mito branches of

  • the Tokugawa family were successful in their own right,

  • especially Mito, where the Tokugawa lords, like Mitsukuni, and Nariaki

  • outshone even the shoguns themselves, as well remembered and highly regarded figures.

  • Mitsukuni Tokugawa - also known as Mito Komon - the legendary Lord of Mito.

  • While the Tokugawa shoguns neglected Kamakura, the Tokugawa Lord of Mito,

  • Mitsukuni, was very fond of the place.

  • And he would often come here, to Zuisen-ji temple,

  • where he was patron.

  • In 1328, shortly after the temple was founded, the first priest - the celebrated

  • Muso Kokushi - caused a pavilion called 'Ichirantei' to be erected upon the

  • summit of the hill in order to afford rest and appreciation of the landscape.

  • Poets have compared this little structure to a miniature Elysium,

  • from which one could gaze down upon the vision of the world below.

  • When in the course of time this fabric fell into ruins, a new structure was erected,

  • some 200 years ago, by the enlightened scholar and philosopher Mitsukuni, Lord of Mito,

  • who was also a constant visitor and patron of Zuisen-ji.

  • This building was modeled upon the Chinese pavilion Suiotei,

  • built by the Chinese emperor Kiso, of the Sung Dynasty...

  • Mitsukuni wrote many historical documents, regarding Kamakura.

  • It was Mitsukuni, who kept interest in the place alive...

  • Apart from giving financial patronage to certain Kamakura temples and shrines,

  • to support their claim that they were descended from the Minamoto, the Tokugawa shoguns

  • largely neglected Kamakura, so it remained something of a backwater...

  • However, Kamakura and its environs, like here, at Kanazawa, became tourist attractions.

  • People would come down from the capital, at Edo, to visit

  • the lovely oceanside views, or the temples and shrines,

  • and even works of art were set here -

  • the first postcards.

  • The artist Hiroshige created woodblock prints -

  • 'The Eight Views of Kanazawa' - which attracted even more tourists to this area.

  • But 'The Eight Views of Kanazawa'

  • would prove to be among the last depictions, of Japan, as a mysterious, isolated, medieval land,

  • for as Hiroshige was publishing the Eight Views of Kanazawa,

  • strange ships, from a far-off land came across the ocean, sailed past Kamakura,

  • around the Miura peninsula, and up the gulf, towards the shogun's capital...

  • This is Zojo-ji temple, just to the south of Edo Castle,

  • which houses the mausoleums of leaders of the

  • Tokugawa family - the last dynasty of shoguns to rule Japan.

  • And they were the last dynasty of shoguns because although they ruled Japan firmly,

  • and without serious opposition, the outside world - the modern world - was about to come knocking...

  • These foreign ships that had sailed up the gulf towards the capital

  • dropped anchor at Yokohama.

  • They were from America - a country that didn't even exist,

  • when Japan had closed its doors to the world.

  • The Americans, under the expedition's leader, Commodore Perry,

  • politely, but firmly, requested that Japan open its ports to international trade,

  • and establish formal diplomatic relations.

  • In the full, official title of the shoguns

  • lies the key, to why the last Tokugawa shoguns - the last shoguns of all - were overthrown.

  • And that title is 'Sei-i Tai shōgun' - Supreme Commander, for the Suppression of Barbarians.

  • And in the light of the arrival

  • of the Americans, British, French, and Western powers, suppressing the barbarians

  • was something the later shoguns were completely failing to do.

  • And this would anger many young, idealistic samurai...

  • Just as Kamakura retains the places that sowed the seeds of the Shogunate:

  • the temple of the sun goddess, at Hase;

  • Moto Hachiman;

  • Tsurugaoka Hachimangu;

  • so it retains the place, where the final seeds

  • of the Shogunate's destruction were sown...

  • An interesting fact

  • in connection with this temple is that for a time its tranquil seclusion afforded

  • a shelter to the celebrated patriot and martyr Yoshida Shoin,

  • whose uncle was then officiating as head priest of Zuisen-ji.

  • Some writings of the former are still preserved as treasures of the temple -

  • mementos of his loyalty to the imperial cause

  • and of his tragic fate.

  • This young samurai was an ardent loyalist.

  • When the American envoy Townsend Harris came to Shimoda

  • to conclude the commercial treaty between Japan and America

  • Yoshida Shoen was deeply incensed - the emperor's authority being practically ignored.

  • With a little band of enthusiasts they determined to attempt to overthrow the Shogunate.

  • With that end in view, Yoshida resolved in spite of the national edict that meted out death

  • to any Japanese subject who should leave the empire, to go abroad secretly

  • in order to make a careful study of foreign customs and methods.

  • His preparations were made at Zuisen-ji.

  • One dark night he attempted to conceal himself

  • on board one of the American ships of the Harris expedition,

  • but was discovered.

  • He was seized and beheaded at the early age of 28.

  • Nevertheless, this little group of talented and ardent patriots have been described by historians

  • as the real motive force that led up to the restoration of 1868...

  • Nariaki, the last great lord of Mito,

  • and one of the most powerful and influential figures in the Shogunate

  • in the middle of the nineteenth century built this place - the Kodokan -

  • to teach Confucian classics and statecraft to young samurai and future leaders of the Shogunate.

  • But the sun was beginning to set, not just on the Tokugawa dynasty,

  • but on the institution of the Shogunate itself.

  • Nariaki's son Yoshinobu was made Shogun.

  • But however capable the Tokugawa rulers were, they couldn't survive much longer,

  • in the face of superior Western technology and military might.

  • The end of the Shogunate was coming.

  • In light of his failure to protect Japan from the barbarians the last Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu -

  • also known as Keiki - stepped down.

  • And the first Imperial government in six centuries -

  • swearing allegiance to the Emperor Meiji - took power in Edo,

  • and renamed the capital 'Tokyo'.

  • And this new generation of ruling politicians

  • governing Japan in the name of the Emperor came to Kamakura and built

  • a new imperial grand shrine to express the authority of the Emperor over Japan,

  • and over Kamakura once again.

  • And they went to the site of the grave of Yoritomo.

  • And at Yoritomo's grave, they claimed to be rightful rulers,

  • based on the historical fact that they,

  • as Choshu and Satsuma samurai, were descended from members

  • of Yoritomo's first Shogunate.

  • With the overthrow of the Shogunate,

  • and the renewal of Shinto, it was the Buddhist treasures alone though,

  • and their temples, artifacts, and statues that were desecrated and burned.

  • The cultural and spiritual mix of Buddhism and Shinto, a thousand years old,

  • as old as the first shoguns,

  • was rigorously and forcefully dissolved under the auspices of 'State Shinto'.

  • As the medieval Shogunate faded away

  • and the new Imperial regime opened Japan's doors to the west,

  • the latest technological innovations were warmly welcomed.

  • Train lines were constructed from the capital at Tokyo,

  • down through Yokohama and Kamakura and on to the naval port of Yokosuka.

  • With the arrival of the trains came a new influx of interest in Kamakura.

  • Whether people on a day trip,

  • or coming for a dip,

  • or those who came to make a home in the city -

  • new residents like the noted writer Osaragi Jiro -

  • and also with the new train line came a new community

  • of wealthy, influential expatriates...

  • Exactly a century ago this fantastic book

  • 'Kamakura: Fact and Legend' was published.

  • And the writer - Iso Mutsu - was an English woman

  • who was born with the name Gertrude Ethel Passingham.

  • And her story - it's a fascinating story - because when she lived in England as a young woman

  • a lodger in her house was the son of the Japanese Foreign Minister Baron Mutsu.

  • And after a long and sometimes difficult courtship they married and came to live in Japan -

  • in Kamakura - where she wrote this book, which is still in print after a hundred years.

  • And I'm gonna read the excerpt, regarding Kanazawa...

  • To the south, the vast Pacific glitters in the sunshine,

  • while on the northern side is outlined the indented shores

  • and irregular promontories of the Bay of Tokyo;

  • Nearby lies Yokosuka, the great naval port,

  • with its wide harbor and grim vessels of war;

  • and beyond, the pine clad islets

  • and jagged coast of Kanazawa...

  • (That's where I live!)

  • This latter resort is six miles from Kamakura

  • along the high road, and was first discovered by a Chinese priest

  • of the Ming Dynasty, who detected a resemblance between the celebrated Hsi-hu,

  • or Western Lake in China, and the lovely and imaginative scenery of Kanazawa,

  • beloved of poets and painters and widely famed for its Hakkei, or Eight Views.

  • The latter are named from the Chinese originals:

  • (1) Sunlight dispersing the mists of Susaki,

  • (2) Descending wild geese of Hirakata - in this instance the "wild geese"

  • are represented by the people of the district gathering shells in the lagoon at low tide;

  • viewed from a distance they present a similar effect

  • to the birds of the Chinese scene.

  • (3) The Twilight Bell of Shomyo-ji,

  • (4) Evening snow at Uchikawa,

  • (5) Returning sails of Otsutomo,

  • (6) The sunset glow of Nojima,

  • (7) The autumn moon of Seto,

  • (8) The evening showers of Koizumi.

  • One of the most remarkable things about Iso Mutsu's book

  • is despite the fact that the violent dissolution of Buddhism took place in the decades

  • before she arrived in Japan, so much of what she writes about still survives,

  • and thrives, to this day.

  • Despite efforts to compel the people to follow

  • a prescribed faith in the name of national unity,

  • the people went back to their old beliefs,

  • practices, and traditions, fusing Shinto, and Buddhism, and other folk religions, once again,

  • and putting the shrines back in the temples, and the temples back in the shrines,

  • and taking old, precious, forsaken Buddhist treasures,

  • and building new temples in which to store them.

  • After the formal dissolution of Buddhism,

  • many Buddhist temples were lost forever.

  • But even so, there was a rebirth.

  • Here, at Tokei-ji temple, a Zen Buddhist revival took place,

  • under the abbot, Shaku Soyen,

  • and his brilliant student, Daisetsu T. Suzuki, who brought Zen Buddhism

  • not only to a new audience in Japan, but for the first time,

  • to the world,

  • influencing everyone from Alan Watts,

  • to Jack Kerouac.

  • Although neglected and then badly damaged in the earthquake of 1923,

  • Jochi-ji was lovingly restored.

  • This grand bell tower is one of Kamakura's best sights.

  • Centuries after the last shoguns and samurai are gone,

  • perhaps their greatest legacy is Zen,

  • and the accompanying mindset, and aesthetic, that still remains,

  • instilled in the souls of the Japanese people...

  • Local organizations and people - some whose families have been here for generations,

  • but also newcomers too -

  • have devoted themselves to the preservation of Kamakura, its history, and culture,

  • and now in modern times, the city has arisen and prospered again.

  • Here, in the Land of the Rising Sun,

  • the sun remains forever set, on the glory days of Kamakura.

  • But as one passes under huge, vermilion shrine entrances,

  • or walks through imposing Zen mountain temple gateways,

  • and gazes up at bronze statues and bells,

  • or comes here to the beach, in the early evening, to be bathed in golden light,

  • one is reminded of the very last words of Iso Mutsu,

  • that most eloquent of Kamakura's chroniclers, who said:

  • "How beautiful! The sunset."

Although the Kamakura Shogunate lasted a century and a half,

Subtitles and vocabulary

Click the word to look it up Click the word to find further inforamtion about it