Subtitles section Play video Print subtitles - The hard part of the character makeup is unchanging someone into another person. Anyone can point out what's wrong with it without knowing what's wrong with it. So that's the tough part. [instrumental music] My name is Kazu Hiro, I am prosthetic designer. If an actor wants to change their look to portray a character more than like a beauty makeup can do that's when I will come into the set. I started as a special effects makeup artist. In the 2012 I got sick of the film industry and I left the film industry and started to fine art. Then I came back to the film industry again. When I was in high school I contacted Dick Smith, who is the Amadeus and godfather, I learned from him and I started in Japan, I worked with Akira Kurosawa. I didn't like the situation in Japan because they don't have enough time and budget, so I decided to move to United States. I worked on "Men In Black", "Grinch", "Click", "Norbit". I was nominated for the Oscar and recently I worked on "Darkest Hour" and "Bombshell" and I got Oscar for both movies. To do a character makeup I will need to know anatomy and also the makeup technique and the sculpting, and also hair work. I started to use a computer and also photographing. These in the computer technology is so advanced. We can combine prosthetic makeup with a computer, and we can do something that we couldn't do in like 10 years ago. [gentle music] Right after I finished "Mindhunter", Charlize contacted me about the project, because Charlize was the producer of "Mindhunter" too. Charlize convinced me to be on set every day because it was really tricky makeup because especially like applying eyelids, such a delicate area moving all the time and such a delicate thin skin and if it's applied the wrong way it will affect the next stage. So Megyn Kelly has a heavier eyelid compared to Charlize, so I had to change the eyelids on Charlize and also nostril size. Megyn Kelly has a bigger nostril. The first thing I did was took an impression of inside of her nostril, that form I scanned it and put in a computer program and I made this nose plug So on set I can put this, you can see like a one side is bigger because I put on this side. This is a head cast of Charlize, I can use the same color clay and build the form onto it. We take an impression of the actor's face with a silicone and then silicone is a fixable material. We put the plaster bandage on top of it to reinforce the flexibility. During that time actor will be breathing only through their nostril. The whole process will take about 25 minutes. And then in that impression mode, we pour resin and make a mold of it, and in that mold we pour plaster and make this copy. This is a printout of Charlize's face. When we do a physical lifecast the way of the material, pull down the face a little bit because this face is so soft, and if we put the heavy stuff on it, it would distort the face. And the great thing about the skin it will that nothing touches it. So that's why we can make eye open or with expression. And then from that data, we print this out. When they act, they really have to believe in the how capable they are and what they can do. Megyn Kelly is really famous. And Charlize is also very famous and the audience knows what they look like. It was very important to convince audience and also help Charlize to be really immerse into the character and portray Megyn Kelly. Charlize's makeup took like a two hours and half. [gentle music] Roger has like a bull dog-ish cheek and a big neck, we kind of concluded it will be like a hybrid not exactly like a Roger because you know, that a great actor when you shoot a close-up they do a lots of subtle movement around the eyes. I didn't want to cover that things. And what I did was I change the hairline, Roger's hairline was much farther back, and more like allowing the forehead. John's hairline is almost at triangle. We shaved the hairline to mimic Roger's hairline. I gave him a nose and cheek piece in the neck, and earlobes because Roger had really big earlobes. John didn't believe in prosthetic makeup, he had a bad experiences in the past. When we had a meeting first time he brought a plumper the kind of device put in the mouth to make his cheek bigger. The issue with a plumper is always look like a actor has a plumper because there's a distance here. And he said, "This might work, I used it on the crunch. [laughs] Okay, well, I told him, "No, let me do." He was really sceptical. As soon as I put the nose on him, he looked at in the mirror, and he started to say, "Wow, that's amazing." "I'm done here," and I told him that I'm not done yet. And he was really into it after that test makeup. Into john is a little over two hours. [gentle music] Nicole Kidman who was portraying Gretchen Carlson Jay told me that she doesn't have to be exactly like Gretchen, but to just give a sense in like essence of it. Originally I sculpted with a nose and chin in the cheeks because Gretchen has a rounder face, but Nicole requested to get rid of that. So we end up putting a nose and the chin, that was it. Nicole was about two hours. [gentle music] I think it was 2015 Gary Oldman emailed me, he really wanted me to work on this film, and he told me that if I cannot work on, he won't take the job. He had big cheek pieces, the nose tip and chin and the neck and we shaved his head because I had the discussion with Gary, "Do you want to shave it and to make the makeup time shorter "or you want to sit longer?" And so his answer was, "Okay, let's shave it." There is a lifecast. This is Gary, Gary Oldman. Most of the time, it's impossible to make one person look exactly like the other person, because the proportion of the face or proportional of the face is different. When I sculpt a face on a lifecast, it's very important to know how the actor move their face and we also have to know where to end sculpture. Basically this is a silicone has a skin on top of it. We would apply this with a medical adhesive and we will melt the edge. We call this part as the flashing. Then we start to paint the skin tone on top of it, sometimes blend into actor's skin or change the whole color. Human skin tone it's changing all the time. If they are sitting on a chair, they are not moving at all skin tend to be pale. And then once they stand up and start to walk bad saturation start to happen so skin tone get warmer. We have to kind of compensate that change so there won't be a too much of a difference. It took I think it was like, less than three hours. [gentle music] "Mindhunter" was it came to me right after I finished "Darkest Hour". Actor for Charles Manson was Damon Herriman and he was Charles Manson in "Once Upon A Time In Hollywood." He had a great face for that character, but the big difference was eyelids. Charles Manson has a more like a deep socket guys. He had a whole beard and long hair. I gave him eyebrow cover because I had to change the shape of his eyebrow. At first I made eyelid piece kind of bringing the eyelid into his eye socket, but he felt that is kind of uncomfortable. So at the end, what I did was I glued his eyelid up, and put the forehead piece on top of it. We created the hairpiece and cut the hairline off from a lace piece. But the problem is those lace piece once glued on the skin it's kind of toughen up the skin. So when actor smile or change the expression it buckles up and make a wrinkles. What we do is cut the hairline off from hairpiece, and lay a single hair on hairline with a glue. It took about three hours. [gentle music] David Berkowitz, Oliver Cooper was actor. I was asked to be a part of the casting and pick the right face. That was a little tricky because David Berkowitz has really interesting face. Oliver's face he had eyebrow cover because David Berkowitz has a unibrow and the nose and upper lip and lower lip, chin or cheek and the neck. He also had a bodysuits. David Berkowitz was kind of stocky like almost like a football player-ish body shape. So we have to change the whole shoulder too. Close to four hours. And the getting Oscar is it will put the seal on you that okay Oscar this guy so it will be all good. So that was great. After the like an old project came to me was the projects I wanted to work on. [gentle music]
B1 charlize hairline actor makeup gentle music megyn Prosthetic Designer Breaks Down Transforming Charlize Theron Into Megyn Kelly | Vanity Fair 2 0 林宜悉 posted on 2020/10/23 More Share Save Report Video vocabulary