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  • Customer: All the flavor's just exploding in my mouth.

  • Each dish just has this specific specialty,

  • and the taste that it provides,

  • really, really good.

  • Medha Imam: That's amazing.

  • Kopitiam has been making headlines

  • as one of the best new restaurants in the United States.

  • So it's no wonder that it's packed

  • morning, noon, and night.

  • We're in Chinatown headed to Kopitiam.

  • Now, in Malaysian, "kopitiam" translates to "coffee shop."

  • But this small restaurant is so much more than that.

  • It's serving up traditional Baba-Nyonyan cuisine

  • that was crafted from family recipes

  • that were handed down from generation to generation.

  • Now, I've never had Malaysian food before,

  • but I'm excited to see how it's made and give it a try.

  • In 2015, long before Kopitiam

  • was the midsized bustling restaurant it is today,

  • it was a small four-seat shop

  • run by one-woman band Kyo Pang

  • that was forced to close in December 2017

  • because of a rent spike.

  • But with a little help from a new friend,

  • Kopitiam was able to reopen in the spring of 2018.

  • Kyo Pang: Initially, I just wanna have a little corner,

  • you know, for myself and maybe for my friends.

  • Moonlynn Tsai: I met her about three years ago

  • as a fan at her old location

  • and then found out that, a little over a year ago,

  • she was gonna close down the other shop.

  • And we decided to talk,

  • we hung out for a little bit, and then we decided

  • to go into business together after five days of meeting,

  • and here we are.

  • Medha: So much of the restaurant is an homage

  • to Kyo's family back in Malaysia.

  • The plates, bowls, and trinkets lining the walls

  • were purchased by Kyo's family in Malaysia

  • and mailed here to New York City.

  • Kyo's mother grows butterfly pea flowers

  • and mails them to the States,

  • where Kyo uses them for the dish pulut inti.

  • Even the coffee is personal.

  • Kyo says her family's restaurant

  • in Malaysia has had exclusive rights

  • to this particular coffee bean for 50 years.

  • Now, Kopitiam is one of just two restaurants

  • in the world where you can get this cup of coffee.

  • It's made with coffee beans roasted in margarine,

  • mixed with sweetened condensed milk,

  • and poured back and forth between two cups by hand.

  • Kyo: My grandfather is a very, very good coffee maker.

  • He was known for making coffees.

  • Every single thing that's here,

  • everyone in my family plays a part of it.

  • Medha: Despite their strong connection,

  • Kyo hasn't seen her family in 11 years.

  • She's a refugee here in America.

  • After coming here for school in 2008,

  • she chose to seek asylum from her home country,

  • where it's illegal to be gay.

  • Kyo: Especially when your parents are,

  • Penang's such a small island,

  • so everyone kind of know everyone.

  • So, growing up, I could never be rebellious.

  • I could never do anything that is not normal.

  • I only came out to my mother

  • when I started the first Kopitiam.

  • You know, finally I tell her that now it's really my time

  • to really want to do my life through cooking.

  • It's like a process of meditations for me.

  • And, you know, from cooking,

  • I kind of connected to my family back home.

  • Medha: Each dish on Kopitiam's menu

  • is handmade with care and authenticity,

  • like the kaya toast,

  • topped with a coconut jam made with coconut milk,

  • sugar, and pandan leaves,

  • then cooked on low for over an hour,

  • requiring consistent stirring.

  • After running Kopitiam six days a week

  • 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.,

  • Kyo stays late every night

  • to make a new batch from scratch.

  • When I asked her when she has time to sleep,

  • the question genuinely confused her.

  • The lack of sleep is one of the many reasons why,

  • since Kopitiam's reopening,

  • several publications have listed it

  • as one of the best restaurants in the country.

  • Moonlynn: Being named one of the top restaurants,

  • it's not even just for America, you know,

  • it's also bringing a lot of pride to Malaysia.

  • Like, there's been a lot of write-up

  • in Malaysia because of this.

  • In Malaysia, you can still get hanged if you're LGBTQ.

  • So, a Malaysian restaurant ran,

  • I think, by two queer women...

  • it's also a statement.

  • Everything.

  • Moonlynn: What's your favorite to eat?

  • Kyo: Everything.

  • Medha: While Kyo might not have a favorite,

  • mine was this: the nasi lemak.

  • Customer: I used to live in Singapore

  • for three years for work,

  • and we loved the cuisine there.

  • And this is even better than the hawker food

  • 'cause we know the ingredient is fresh

  • and it's all fresh made.

  • Customer: It's really the anchovies and that,

  • I guess they're fried, and they're not overly fishy.

  • It's a lot of umami.

  • It's very flavorful.

  • Medha: Nasi lemak begins with fried peanuts

  • and a handful of crunchy fried anchovies.

  • Once strained, Kyo adds housemade chili sauce,

  • then mashes the mixture into a small bowl

  • that's also used as a mold and tops it with white rice.

  • The nasi lemak is placed in its signature rooster bowl,

  • which is another homage to her family's heritage.

  • The bowl is lined with eight cucumbers,

  • eight being a lucky number in Mandarin

  • for wealth and prosperity.

  • Then Kyo finishes it off with a hard-boiled egg.

  • Let's get to eating.

  • OK.

  • Oh, my God.

  • That's amazing.

  • It starts off a little bit salty,

  • then you get hit with the spices.

  • And then it's just a bunch of different flavors.

  • And you get the real crunchiness of the peanuts in here.

  • Wow, I'm in love.

  • And I'm actually becoming a fan of fried anchovies,

  • because

  • they have this little crunch to it.

  • And I'm kind of loving it.

  • If you are unfamiliar with spicy foods

  • or if you're not a fan,

  • this is not too bad in terms of spice level.

  • There's just so much going on in one bite.

  • Let's have a coffee chat.

  • OK, people?

  • All of the flavors and all of these different dishes

  • were so good.

  • I'm coming here.

  • No one else can come here.

  • I'm just gonna come here.

  • I think I've had too much coffee this morning

  • 'cause I become a comedian in my mind.

Customer: All the flavor's just exploding in my mouth.

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