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Claudia Romeo: We're in San Nicandro Garganico, Italy,
Claudia Romeo:我們在意大利的San Nicandro Garganico。
and today we're going to see
而今天我們將看到
how caciocavallo cheese is made.
caciocavallo奶酪是如何製作的。
Caciocavallo is one of the most popular cheeses
Caciocavallo是最受歡迎的奶酪之一。
here in southern Italy,
這裡在意大利南部。
and it's famous for its elongated shape.
而它的形狀以拉長而聞名。
What we're going to see today
今天我們要看的是
is a special kind of caciocavallo, the Podolico kind,
是一種特殊的caciocavallo,Podolico的那種。
which is made with the raw milk of Podolica cattle,
這是用波多裡卡牛的原奶製成的。
a rare breed of cattle that is able to survive
稀有牛種
in the harshest conditions that we can find here.
在我們能找到的最嚴酷的條件下。
These conditions make their cheese
這些條件使得他們的奶酪
one of the most expensive in Italy,
意大利最貴的之一。
sometimes even more expensive than the finest of Parmesans.
有時甚至比最好的帕爾馬乾酪還要貴。
Let's go find out more.
我們去了解一下吧。
The Podolica cows that make this seaside cheese
製作這種海濱奶酪的波多裡卡奶牛。
scatter all over as they roam,
漫遊時散落在各處。
making it hard to tell that you're actually on a farm.
讓人很難看出你其實是在農場裡。
Meet Virginio, one of only a handful
見見維吉尼奧吧,他是少數幾個人中的一個。
of producers making the cheese we're here to learn about.
的生產者,生產我們要了解的奶酪。
He uses a recipe that his grandparents taught him,
他用的是爺爺奶奶教給他的食譜。
though the most important element
雖然最重要的是
of this recipe is location.
的這個配方是位置。
Here in San Nicandro Garganico,
這裡是聖尼桑德羅-加加尼科。
we are only one kilometer from the sea
我們離海只有一公里
and 100 meters above sea level.
和海拔100米以上。
This is an important detail, and we'll soon know why.
這是一個重要的細節,我們很快就會知道原因。
Claudia: The Podolica produce
克勞迪婭:波多裡卡的產品
only 3 to 6 liters of milk a day,
每天只喝3到6升牛奶。
which is much less than the 30 liters
這比30升少得多
an average cow might produce.
一頭普通的奶牛可能會產生。
Today we're working with 50 liters.
今天我們的工作是50升。
The environment in which the cows feed
奶牛的飼養環境
gives this milk a rich, earthy flavor.
賦予這款牛奶濃郁的泥土味。
The whole cheesemaking process takes five hours.
整個奶酪製作過程需要5個小時。
Virginio heats up the milk to 40 degrees,
維吉尼奧把牛奶加熱到40度。
enough to warm it up but still keep it raw,
足以讓它熱起來,但還是要保持生機。
which is essential to make this type of caciocavallo.
這對於製作這種類型的卡西卡瓦羅是必不可少的。
If the milk were to become too warm,
如果牛奶太熱。
it would scorch and kill off the unique flavor
會燒焦,會失去獨特的味道
that the Podolica cows' milk brings to this special cheese.
這款特殊的奶酪採用了波多裡卡牛乳。
He then adds rennet and fermented whey
然後他加入了凝乳和發酵乳清。
from yesterday's production,
從昨天的生產。
and after 20 minutes he starts cutting the curd.
20分鐘後,他開始切豆腐。
He aims for the size of a grain of rice.
他的目標是米粒大小。
To do that, he uses this mushroom-looking tool,
為了做到這一點,他使用了這個看起來像蘑菇的工具。
which is called menaturo --
這就是所謂的menaturo --
a word that, as you may have guessed,
這個詞,你可能已經猜到了。
comes from the local dialect.
來自於當地的方言。
Claudia: Rather than slowly cutting the curd,
克勞迪婭:而不是慢慢地切豆腐。
to make caciocavallo,
來製作卡西卡瓦羅。
Virginio energetically slashes through it.
維吉尼奧精力充沛地一刀砍過去。
This breaks it up into the small pieces
這就把它抽成了小塊
he is hoping to achieve.
他希望達到的目標。
We are used to seeing curd being extracted
我們看慣了榨取豆腐的過程
and then shaped into cheese right away,
然後馬上做成奶酪的形狀。
but here it actually rests further
但在這裡,它實際上更進一步
with some of its own warm whey
用自己的一些溫乳
to allow for more concentrated flavor to develop.
以使味道更集中的發展。
Keeping the curd nice and warm
保持凝乳的舒適和溫暖
will facilitate its fermentation.
將促進其發酵。
And while some other cheesemakers might use a steel vat
而其他一些奶酪製造商可能會使用一個鋼製的大桶
for this process, here,
為這個過程,這裡。
Virginio uses a maple vat to ferment the cheese.
維吉尼奧用楓樹大桶來發酵奶酪。
This also impacts the flavor, adding notes of acidity
這也會影響味道,增加酸味。
that tickle your tongue as you eat.
在你吃東西的時候會讓你的舌頭髮癢。
Virginio tells us this takes about one hour,
維吉尼奧告訴我們,這需要大約一個小時。
but because it's winter, we ended up waiting
但因為是冬天,我們最終還是要等。
for three hours instead.
而不是三個小時。
[liquid slooshing]
[Liquid slooshing]
The curd is ready to be stretched.
腐乳就可以拉長了。
Virginio takes out a bit of whey
維吉尼奧拿出一點乳清
to keep as ferments for tomorrow.
留作明天的發酵物。
He then slices the curd in smaller parts,
然後,他將腐乳切成小塊。
which will then be kneaded in hot water.
然後在熱水中進行揉搓。
In comparison to the stretched curd of mozzarella,
與馬蘇裡拉奶酪的拉伸凝乳相比。
this one will be harder.
這個會更難。
This is due to the waiting time
這是由於等待時間
as well as the size of the curd when it was cut.
以及切開時凝乳的大小。
Virginio then adds some hot water to the curd.
然後,維吉尼奧在凝乳中加入一些熱水。
He will shape it into two cheeses,
他將把它塑造成兩塊奶酪。
each weighing 2.5 kilos.
每個重2.5公斤。
This process will be done completely by hand,
這個過程將完全由人工完成。
so let's get comfortable.
所以,讓我們得到舒適。
He tells me this water is 100 degrees. Yes, Celsius.
他告訴我這水有100度。是的,攝氏度。
And judging by the color of his hands
而且從他的手的顏色來看
and the smoke around us, I don't envy him.
和我們周圍的煙霧,我不羨慕他。
Each cheese goes through different shapes
每種奶酪都有不同的形狀
before reaching its final one.
在達到其最後一個。
Virginio has his personal signature shape, too.
維吉尼奧也有他個人的招牌造型。
When Virginio's happy with the shape of the caciocavallo,
當維吉尼奧對卡西卡瓦羅的形狀感到滿意時。
he places it in cold water to set the shape
他把它放在冷水中定型。
and stop the fermentation.
並停止發酵。
He then adds a rope around the cheeses' heads
然後,他在奶酪的頭上加了一根繩子。
to tie the pair together.
來將這對組合綁在一起。
Once paired, the two cheeses move to bathe in brine.
搭配好後,兩塊奶酪就會移到鹽水中沐浴。
The time they spend here depends on weight.
他們在這裡的時間取決於體重。
Every kilo needs 24 hours.
每公斤需要24小時。
These two new entries weigh 2.5 kilos,
這兩件新作品重2.5公斤。
so they'll stay here for 60 hours.
所以他們會在這裡停留60小時。
And when that time is over,
而當這個時間結束後。
their next destination is something unexpected.
他們的下一個目的地是一些意想不到的東西。
"A cavallo" means "over the hook,"
"Cavallo "的意思是 "在鉤子上",
hence the name of the cheese.
是以,奶酪的名字。
The tree is actually the only time
這棵樹其實是唯一一次
the cheeses will see some sunlight,
奶酪會看到一些陽光。
as the pair will spend the rest of
因為這對夫婦將在接下來的時間裡
their aging days in caves.
他們在山洞中度過的老年時光。
The minimum aging is six weeks,
最短老化時間為六週。
and the maximum two years.
和最多兩年的時間。
Today, Virginio has prepared
今天,維吉尼奧已經準備好了
a 6-month-old caciocavallo for us to taste.
一個6個月大的Caciocavallo給我們品嚐。
A cheese this old is worth $40 a kilo,
這麼老的奶酪值40元一公斤。
which translates into just over $100 a piece.
換算下來也就100多塊錢一個。