Subtitles section Play video Print subtitles - So you are a woman in the mid-18th century. You're getting dressed, and in order to do that, you put on your shift, your petticoat, your hoops, because you feel like being ~a bit posh~, your second petticoat, your stays, your pocket, your gown, your cap, fichu, ruffles, et cetera, or perhaps you are a woman of the mid-19th century, in which case, you've got your chemise, your corset, crinoline, petticoat, skirt, bodice, shoes, shawls, and bonnet, or maybe you're an Elizabethan, where instead you are opting for smock, partlet, pair of bodies, bum roll, farthingale, underskirt, overskirt, bodice, cap, and ruff. The question looms eternally: With all those layers interconnecting and overlapping, especially around the waist area, how did anyone get anything off efficiently to pee multiple times per day? You will perhaps notice that the one garment not included in your daily dressing throughout any of these periods is, in fact, what we today would think of as "underwear", for a simple logical reason that, for the most part, women just didn't wear them. For the sake of this video, by the way, I'm going to be referring to this particular garment as "underwear", and not meaning the general concept of garments worn underneath other clothing, since yes, they did indeed wear many more things under their other things than we do today, but the word "pants" confuses the Americans, and "panties" confuses the British, and any more obscure reference to said small clothes is just generally unnecessarily unfair to our multilingual friends, so underwear, it shall be. I say women "for the most part" didn't wear underwear, because as is the precarious way of history, we're all just interpreting the selected evidence that happens to survive to us, however many centuries later, and that subsequently there is no such thing as a straightforward fact, when speaking about things that we have no firsthand experience in. And while this no underwear thing is where the evidence points us at present, there will undoubtedly be uncovered, at some point in future, some evidence to suggest that one woman somewhere was, in fact, regularly wearing what we might call underwear today. There is, for example, the textile finds uncovered in Lengberg Castle in Austria, including this pair of what distinctly looks to be underwear, and although confirmably similar in style to the undergarments worn by men in the circa-15th century period attributed as the date of origin, it was found amongst fragments of a distinctly women's undergarment. So anything is possible, but for the most part, evidence, or the comparative lack of surviving evidence thereof, and not just surviving garments, but lack of written indications in journals, inventories, dictionaries, and wills, indicates that, for the most part, these garments were not a prevalent part of the average woman's wardrobe until about the 19th century. But we'll get to that. When you think about it, it kind of makes sense. When you've already got layers of shifts and petticoats and skirts going on with the lower half of your outfit, who would have said, "Hey, you know what would be a really great idea? An additional little garment that we have to surgically extract from under our skirts and stays every time we have to pee." It is far easier not to have to extract anything at all, but rather to just lift up your skirts, position your chamber pot accordingly, and go. "But wait!", I hear you ask. "What was one supposed to do at that time of moon when one might actually prefer to have something a bit tighter going on, despite the additional inconvenience?" References to 18th century menstrual management are rare, save for the implication of an apron being used. Abby Cox has experimented with a theory of using an apron made of absorbent diaper woven cloth on her channel, if you care to investigate in greater detail on this subject. There are copious references and advertisements by the latter part of the 19th century for reusable, and later disposable, towels that could be clipped to sanitary belts, and sanitary belts, as well as absorbent aprons worn to protect the back of the skirts, were prevalent in advertisements by the early 20th century. (music from the ball scene in a Regency period drama) The transition from no drawers to yes drawers is not one that happens overnight, but is one that occurs gradually sometime around the 19th century, such that the Workwoman's Guide states by 1838 that drawers are, quote, "worn by men, women, and children of all classes, and almost all ages." I should note that Queen Victoria ascended the English throne only one year before in 1837, and drawers have already apparently become a ubiquitous necessity according to the reference from 1838, so we can't necessarily blame delicate Victorian sensibilities for their adoption. Visual representations of fashionable dress continue to depict commando ladies all the way up until at least 1811, but this image, dated a mere seven years later, to 1818, is already showing a woman wearing drawers as part of her usual dressing routine. Much like a change from the term stays to corset, the adoption of drawers wasn't a transition that happened overnight, but rather more likely over the course of a generation. Nevertheless, despite the adoption of drawers under dresses in the 19th century, these still didn't pose any impediment to peeing, as in the vast majority of surviving examples, the crotch seam of 19th-century drawers, and later combinations, was generally left open. I say generally, because there are examples of sewn drawers that, if museum dating can be trusted, would have existed towards the mid to early later part of the 19th century, well before sewn drawers became widespread, but the circumstances in which these were worn, whether by a staunchly anti-corset lady, an invalid, or just someone particularly committed to completely undressing in order to pee is unknown. And of course, it is also unconfirmable as to whether or not these garments even were worn, considering that the ones that survive seem to be... surprisingly pristine...? It is around the very end of the 19th century, and into the Edwardian era, that we begin to see this seam being closed, first with buttons in some surviving examples, so that the seam could still be opened easily without the entire garment needing to be extracted from under the corset, and finally sewn up completely, as we approach the 1920s. (that vaguely '20s-sounding vlogger music) The simplification and shortening of skirts, and the adoption of the brassiere in place of the corset, are likely significant factors in this evolution, since fewer foundational layers simultaneously meant less layers of protection and concealment, but also easier potential for extraction of a pair of closed-seam underwear at necessary moments. The term "pair of underwear", by the way, comes from their ancestral pair of drawers, and the two individual legs from which they were comprised. The prevalent adoption of underwear is thus a surprisingly recent event. There is evidence of men's underpants occurring throughout periods of history, from the linen briefs of the medieval periods, to the occasional evidence of linen drawers in the 18th century, despite most visual evidence suggesting that drawers were likewise uncommon in menswear by this time as well. But this isn't wholly irrelevant to the dilemma of peeing, since men's styles of dress were, if not less layered, at least constructed so that they were easily dismantlable for peeing purposes with codpieces, fall fronts, and button flies. So that was me sufficiently taking six whole minutes longer than it should have to answer this exceedingly simple question, but if you are not here for unnecessarily passionate explorations into the urinary habits of pre-20th century humans, then honestly... I don't even know why you're still here.
B2 UK underwear century corset seam worn adoption How Did They Pee in Those Dresses? A Superficial History of Underwear 70 6 flute012 posted on 2023/01/08 More Share Save Report Video vocabulary