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  • At Kernal Brewery in London's Bermondsey, something unusual is brewing.

  • This grain left over from beer production is commonly used for animal feed or can even end up in landfill.

  • But here, it's getting a new lease of life.

  • It's going to be transformed into a leather alternative known as New Grain.

  • No animals, no plastic.

  • And now it's time for all of this to head back to Arda Biomaterials' lab around the corner.

  • Once these sacks arrive at the lab, it's time for the process to begin.

  • First of all, it's emptied out into a container like this.

  • And then an alkaline solution is added.

  • That's stirred for about an hour to extract the protein from the grain.

  • Then the husk will be separated and the protein liquid will move along to the next stage where some natural ingredients will be added.

  • This will be stirred for another couple of hours.

  • And at this point, protein strings start to develop.

  • And that means that it's ready to be poured into the trays.

  • Now, this tray here has got a pretty smooth finish.

  • So that'll create something that looks like a lot of natural leathers.

  • If you want something even smoother than that, well, there's a tray for that too.

  • And for something that's a bit more of a crocodile look, well, you've even got a version like that.

  • Varying the beer that the grain comes from by, say, using stout, will result in different final colours.

  • After the material's been sitting in the tray for a day, it's ready to peel off.

  • That's so smooth. That's like PVC.

  • Yeah, no, it's completely shiny because it's unbacked.

  • And now that just needs its sustainable backing added.

  • One of the big environmental issues with leather production is actually the tanning process, though.

  • And Arda is hoping for a solution.

  • We are exploring using natural colouring agents.

  • So there's actually a lot of deep tradition in old tanning before the advent of petrochemicals or chromium tanning.

  • So we're exploring these old dyes that are naturally derived and work with the environment and biodegrade.

  • And now for a look at some of the finished product.

  • We've got a whole roll of it here.

  • It looks very much like leather. This one's quite soft.

  • We've got some here that have been dyed.

  • It's external companies that do that because that's not actually done here.

  • But there are different textures.

  • This is a bit harder, a bit more like a leather that maybe you'd have on a sofa.

  • Now, if I smell it, because I know that is the instinct with leather...

  • ..it doesn't smell of much.

  • A bit like a new car, maybe, which I guess could be the smell of leather.

  • It's not quite the same.

  • But they are looking at being able to customise it to smell however somebody might want it to.

  • Or of nothing, possibly.

  • These two are made from different types of beer, so the colour is authentic.

  • They do feel less like leather to me, I think because they're harder and more solid.

  • The more flexible ones that are used for something like a handbag feel more like leather and they've just got that movement to them.

  • On a big sheet here, this could make a bag that would actually fit my laptop, that feels a lot softer, it moves around more like leather does.

  • But I think the main point is there's a lot of flexibility as to how the finish is going to end up looking and what can be done to it afterwards.

  • There's competition, though.

  • There are lots of other leather alternatives that are coming online and they each have different positives and negatives.

  • Our solution offers a way to scale.

  • Do you think it's going to be cheaper than leather?- Yes.

  • How much cheaper?

  • Well, currently, a lot of the breweries we work with at the moment give away their grain for free.

  • So our feedstock is coming in at an extremely low value.

  • Some of the bigger breweries sell it, but it's quite low.

  • So at scale, we calculate that we can undercut leather and plastic leather.

  • And when do you think I'm going to be able to go out and buy a handbag made out of this?

  • Hopefully this time next year.

  • And it's going to be a cheap handbag?

  • It'll start as a small collection to certain clients and then into luxury, and then slowly moving down the luxury market into more commodity and high street.

  • And what's worth having if there isn't a queue or a waiting list?

At Kernal Brewery in London's Bermondsey, something unusual is brewing.

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