Okay, so these things that are being lifted out of the skin are an accumulation of the oil from your oil glands as well as dirt, debris, and gunk that just accumulates in them.

好了，這些從皮膚中排出的東西是油脂腺分泌的油脂以及汙垢、碎屑和垃圾在皮膚中的堆積。

This has been termed the sebaceous filament.

這被稱為皮脂腺絲。

You'll find this in like old literature going back like 50 years ago they termed it a sebaceous filament.

你可以在 50 年前的舊文獻中找到這種說法，他們稱之為皮脂腺絲。

Now these are all over the place.

現在這些東西到處都是。

People don't like having them and they always feel like, okay maybe if I just use a pore strip to take these off then it will get rid of them.

人們不喜歡有這些毛孔，他們總是覺得，好吧，如果我用毛孔脫毛膏把這些毛孔脫掉，也許就能把它們去掉。

This person really benefited a lot from this pore strip but you really don't want to get to the point where there's that much buildup.

這個人確實從毛孔條中受益匪淺，但你真的不想讓毛孔積聚得那麼多。

It really is just a collection of these things.

它其實就是這些東西的集合。

These videos can be super satisfying to Let's talk about why oil is actually really important, right?

讓我們來談談為什麼石油真的很重要，對嗎？

Like our pores are really important.

就像我們的毛孔真的很重要一樣。

A lot of people don't want pores.

很多人都不想要毛孔。

They just want to eliminate their pores.

他們只是想消除毛孔。

But our pores is actually what is going to produce the oils that keep our skin soft and hydrated.

但實際上，我們的毛孔會分泌油脂，讓我們的皮膚保持柔軟和水潤。

So the oils in our skin are made up of multiple things.

是以，我們皮膚中的油脂是由多種成分組成的。

One of the most abundant things in them is actually triglycerides.

其中含量最多的其實是甘油三酯。

Also in them are things like squalene.

其中還含有角鯊烯等物質。

Squalane to a lesser extent.

角鯊烷含量較少。

Glycerol which is similar to glycerin and how it acts on our skin.

甘油（Glycerol），它與甘油相似，也能作用於我們的皮膚。

And collectively these have a protective benefits and then they also interact with things on our skin like the microbiome.

這些物質共同具有保護作用，還能與皮膚上的微生物群等發生作用。

Going back to that video, that buildup is probably a little extensive, right?

回過頭來看那段視頻，積聚的東西可能有點多，對吧？

When it gets to that point you can imagine that if you have that much buildup in your pores that it's going to make your pores look larger, right?

你可以想象，如果毛孔中堆積了這麼多東西，毛孔會變得更大，對嗎？

So the goal is to actually not get it to build up to this point.

是以，我們的目標是不要讓它積累到這一步。

Now pore strips have been demonized on social media where people say you should never use a pore strip.

現在，毛孔收斂條在社交媒體上被妖魔化了，人們說你永遠不應該使用毛孔收斂條。

But an occasional pore strip once a month, once every other month, is going to remove those tiny bell hairs on the skin and can be a nice cleanup treatment that you use like occasionally.

但是，每月或每隔一個月偶爾使用一次毛孔清潔條，可以去除皮膚上那些細小的鐘狀毛髮，是一種不錯的清潔護理方法。

Our goal is actually to give you a skincare routine that's going to prevent the buildup.

實際上，我們的目標是為您提供一套護膚程序，防止皮膚堆積。

You actually probably don't need to use pore strips at all.

實際上，你可能根本不需要使用毛孔貼。

So let's talk about the first ingredient I think is probably going to be the most beneficial for these sebaceous filaments and that's salicylic acid.

是以，讓我們來談談我認為對皮脂腺絲最有益的第一種成分，那就是水楊酸。

That was your first.

這是你的第一次。

That was your go-to.

那是你的首選。

That's my go-to.

這是我的首選。

I actually wasn't expecting that.

其實我也沒想到會這樣。

Okay, so salicylic acid.

好了，水楊酸。

Salicylic acid, it's a beta hydroxy acid sort of.

水楊酸是一種β羥基酸。

We always caveat that.

我們總是提醒大家注意這一點。

It's lipophilic.

它具有親脂性。

So this could dissolve the oil, remove it in a cleanser, which is my favorite way to use this.

是以，它可以溶解油脂，在潔面乳中去除油脂，這是我最喜歡的使用方法。

And then it can also work as a leave-on product to break down the oil and then maybe decrease oil production a little bit.

然後，它還可以作為一種免洗產品來分解油脂，或許還能減少一點油脂分泌。

It's going to lift away a lot of that oil and dead skin cells.

它能去除大量油脂和死皮細胞。

It's a mild exfoliant, able to get into the pores and remove that.

它是一種溫和的去角質產品，能夠深入毛孔去除角質。

And so it's going to do a lot of the work, right?

所以它要做很多工作，對嗎？

In kind of removing it.

在某種程度上，它是被移除的。

So cleanser would be perfect.

所以洗面乳就再好不過了。

Daily cleanser or leave-on exfoliant, something like the Paul's Choice 2% BHA liquid exfoliant.

日常潔面乳或免洗去角質產品，如 Paul's Choice 2% BHA 液體去角質產品。

Really a good option to kind of target in these really sebaceous areas.

針對皮脂腺旺盛的部位，這確實是一個不錯的選擇。

And that's going to go a long way.

這將大有裨益。

I'd say that's probably my top ingredient for these.

我想說，這可能是我最喜歡的配料了。

So my top ingredient is, I mean, the retinol, retinoids.

是以，我的首要成分是視黃醇、維甲酸。

I mean, I guess everyone knew that.

我的意思是，我想每個人都知道這一點。

My whole life apparently revolves around these things, but retinoids I think are the most consistent at decreasing oil production.

我的整個生活顯然都圍繞著這些東西，但我認為維甲酸類藥物在減少油脂分泌方面是最穩定的。

And we see this to some effect in some scale with the topicals and then to a much larger scale with the systemics.

我們可以看到，局部用藥在一定程度上產生了效果，而系統用藥的效果則要大得多。

But I think if you're picking one ingredient to decrease the oil production, this would be mine.

但我認為，如果你要選擇一種成分來減少油脂分泌，這將是我的選擇。

Retinols also increase the skin cell turnover, which will help decrease those pores from retaining as much of the sebum that's produced.

視黃醇還能增加皮膚細胞的新陳代謝，有助於減少毛孔對皮脂的滯留。

I guess they do through increasing the collagen and restructuring some of the collagen.

我猜它們是通過增加膠原蛋白和重組部分膠原蛋白來實現的。

I think they might target the architecture of these pores in a way that a lot of other things won't.

我想它們可能會針對這些毛孔的結構，而很多其他東西都無法做到這一點。

Some of that's theory crafting again, but that's another reason I like retinoids in this space.

其中有些又是理論上的雕琢，但這也是我在這個領域喜歡視黃醇的另一個原因。

Retinoids, obviously a favorite ingredient for this.

視黃醇，顯然是這種成分的最愛。

So I would say definitely those are the top two.

是以，我認為這兩個肯定是最重要的。

And then you can add in third ingredient niacinamide, which additionally will decrease and regulate oil production.

然後你可以添加第三種成分煙酰胺，它還能減少和調節油脂分泌。

I would say third would probably be niacinamide and green tea kind of tied in this category for oil production.

我認為第三種可能是煙酰胺，綠茶在油脂分泌方面與之並列。

But the main heavy lifters in this category are going to be retinol and salicylic acid.

但這一類別中的主要重磅產品將是視黃醇和水楊酸。

Now, which one's better?

現在，哪個更好？

I mean, it doesn't matter because you can actually use both.

我的意思是，這並不重要，因為實際上你可以同時使用這兩種方法。

So what I would do is use a retinol at night, salicylic acid in the morning or retinol at night, salicylic acid cleanser either morning or night.

是以，我會在晚上使用視黃醇，早上使用水楊酸，或者晚上使用視黃醇，早上或晚上使用水楊酸潔面乳。

So the good thing is you can target from two different directions and that's going to really reduce the amount of times you have to use pore strips, reduce the buildup of your sebaceous filaments, and additionally make your pores look smaller over time.

這樣做的好處是，你可以從兩個不同的方向鎖定目標，從而真正減少使用毛孔收斂條的次數，減少皮脂腺絲的堆積，並隨著時間的推移使毛孔看起來更小。

A nice thing about that third ingredient, niacinamide, is you can incorporate this almost anywhere.

第三種成分煙酰胺的好處是，你幾乎可以在任何地方加入這種成分。

There are some cleansers with niacinamide in it.

有些潔面乳含有煙酰胺。

That's probably my least favorite place to use it.

這可能是我最不喜歡用它的地方。

I think its benefits stem largely as a leave-on, but you can find this in your actives.

我認為它的功效主要是作為一種免洗劑，但你也可以在活性成分中找到它。

You can use a dedicated niacinamide product.

您可以使用專門的煙酰胺產品。

You can use it in your moisturizers.

您可以在保溼霜中使用它。

You can use it in your SPF.

您可以在防晒霜中使用它。

Incorporating a salicylic acid cleanser with a retinol or retinoid leave-on with your niacinamide in your moisturizer SPF, that's kind of my favorite combination.

將水楊酸潔面乳與視黃醇或視黃醇護理劑結合起來，再在保溼霜 SPF 中加入煙酰胺，這是我最喜歡的組合。

And then green tea, some green tea toners out there that are also really lightweight and nice, and then also green tea emulsion gels or emulsion somethings as well.

然後是綠茶，一些綠茶爽膚水也非常輕盈、好用，還有綠茶乳液凝膠或乳液之類的東西。

We know the ingredients that are effective, but let's make a simple routine here.

我們知道有效成分，但還是讓我們在這裡做一個簡單的例行公事吧。

So let's start in the morning.

那就從早上開始吧。

Let's start with the CeraVe SA Cleanser.

讓我們從 CeraVe SA 潔面乳開始。

It's got a low concentration of salicylic acid, but will help to lift all that oil from the skin and also help to mildly exfoliate.

它的水楊酸濃度較低，但有助於去除皮膚上的油脂，還能溫和地去除角質。

And then follow that with a sunscreen that has niacinamide in the morning.

然後在早上使用含有煙酰胺的防晒霜。

There are some great options here.

這裡有一些不錯的選擇。

Elta MD, I think, has been one of our favorites and one of the workhorses in this space.

我認為，Elta MD 是我們的最愛，也是這一領域的主力軍之一。

It's just very mattifying.

只是啞光效果很好。

It's just very lightweight, has niacinamide as well.

它非常輕盈，還含有煙酰胺。

Another one that I've really loved and we've really loved recently is Isntree, which is a brand I think that you should check out.

另一個我非常喜歡、我們最近也非常喜歡的品牌是 Isntree，我覺得你們應該去看看。

But this has the hyaluronic acid, watery sun gel.

但這款產品含有透明質酸，水狀防晒啫喱。

It's really more of a lotion.

它其實更像是一種乳液。

It also has niacinamide.

它還含有煙酰胺。

Another nice way to sneak it into your routine.

另一種將其融入日常工作的好方法。

And that feels super good on your skin.

而且皮膚感覺超級好。

It's like you're not wearing sunscreen at all, which is really, really nice.

就像你根本沒有塗防晒霜一樣，這真的非常非常好。

That's an entire morning routine.

這就是整個早晨的例行公事。

You're getting in that salicylic acid and that niacinamide.

你正在攝入水楊酸和煙酰胺。

Then you go to your night routine.

然後，你就開始夜間作息。

You can slip in that CeraVe SA Cleanser again because it's gentle enough to use twice a day.

您可以再次使用 CeraVe SA 潔面乳，因為它足夠溫和，一天使用兩次即可。

And then you can follow it with a gentle retinol, CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol.

然後再用溫和的視黃醇，CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol。

Your prescription to retinol is going to get that job done.

您的視黃醇處方就能完成這項工作。

You've been liking this other one lately.

你最近一直喜歡另一個。

Yeah, lately I've just been trying out and using this Versh Gentle Retinol Serum.

是啊，最近我一直在試用和使用這款 Versh Gentle Retinol Serum。

Another super lightweight retinol.

另一款超輕盈的視黃醇。

Has bakuchiol, so it's kind of like that gel lotion hybrid.

它含有巴枯焦醇，是以有點像凝膠乳液的混合體。

I think you could throw in a niacinamide serum there.

我覺得你可以加入煙酰胺精華素。

I think this one here, you keep it inexpensive.

我覺得這個，你要保持便宜。

The Ordinary's 10% niacinamide. 10% may be a little bit too high for niacinamide.

The Ordinary 的 10%煙酰胺。對於煙酰胺來說，10% 可能有點太高了。

Most of the studies, like we've said in the past, have been to 5%.

就像我們過去說過的那樣，大多數研究都只佔 5%。

But I think a lot of people tolerate that one pretty well.

但我認為，很多人都能很好地容忍這一點。

So then you would just follow with any gentle moisturizer after that and you'd be good to go.

之後再用任何溫和的保溼霜就可以了。

I'll say what I do, I kind of mix in once a week in addition to all this.

我想說的是，除了這些之外，我每週還會做一次。

And I've said this in the past, the Ordinary Salicylic Acid Mask I kind of use in this T-zone here to really kind of help clear out those pores.

我以前也說過，我在 T 區使用的 Ordinary 水楊酸面膜可以幫助清理毛孔。

And that's got the 2% salicylic acid, which will give you a little bit of an extra boost.

它含有 2% 的水楊酸，能給你帶來額外的刺激。

So you don't need to use the pore strips as often or at all.

是以，您不需要經常使用或根本不需要使用毛孔收斂條。

Right.

對

And that's kind of the goal is to keep this under control.

我們的目標就是要控制局面。

So you're not reactively trying to treat any sort of excessive buildup.

這樣，你就不會被動地治療任何形式的過度積聚。

So simple sebaceous filament routine.

如此簡單的皮脂腺絲常規操作。

Now you know how to treat it, but just know that we need this oil in our skin to build up.

現在你知道如何治療了吧，但要知道，我們的皮膚需要這種油脂的滋養。

It's actually what's keeping our skin healthy.

實際上，它是我們皮膚健康的源泉。

So don't overdo it.

所以不要做得太過火。

They're there for a reason.

它們的存在是有原因的。

All these things have a purpose and that's why they're there.

所有這些東西都有它們存在的意義。

So thank you all so much for tuning in.

非常感謝大家收看我們的節目。

Please like, comment and subscribe.

請點贊、評論和訂閱。

Yeah, we appreciate you always.

是的，我們一直很感激你。

Thank you for being a part of this journey.

感謝你們參與這段旅程。

See you in the next video.

下期視頻再見。

See you next time.

下次再見