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Hey everyone, this is GQ Recommends.
大家好,這裡是《GQ 推薦》。
We're going to break down the four essential suits you need to cover every dress code.
我們將為您介紹四套必備套裝,以滿足各種著裝要求。
Whether it's a wedding, whether it's a job interview, whether it's a baby shower, whatever you're going to, these suits will get the job done.
無論是婚禮、求職面試還是嬰兒洗禮,無論您要參加什麼場合,這些套裝都能讓您得心應手。
Clean and classic.
簡潔而經典。
These are the suits that you want to start with, that are going to look good for almost any occasion.
您可以從這些西裝入手,它們幾乎適用於任何場合。
Anything short of black tie formal, you can wear a suit like this too.
不打黑色領帶的正式場合也可以穿這樣的西裝。
It's not too loud, it's not too crazy, and you're going to look smooth, you're going to look suave.
它不會太喧鬧,也不會太瘋狂,你會看起來很平滑,很有風度。
You want to keep things dark, and you want to keep things elegant.
你要保持黑暗,也要保持優雅。
A suit like this is as classic as it gets.
這樣的西裝堪稱經典。
The lapels aren't too wide, they're not too skinny, the pattern isn't too strong, it's not overpowering.
翻領不會太寬,也不會太瘦,圖案不會太強烈,也不會太誇張。
It's going to go with a ton of different shirt and tie options.
它可以搭配各種不同的襯衫和領帶。
This suit is actually from the 50s.
這套衣服其實是 50 年代的。
I bought it vintage for like a little over 150 bucks, and minus some very small adjustments, it fit me pretty perfectly, and it's going to fit me well for the rest of my life.
我花了 150 多美元買的古董,除了一些很小的調整,它非常適合我,而且在我的餘生中都會非常適合我。
If you keep things in that darker range of tones, your blacks, your navies, your charcoal grays, those suits are going to be as versatile as possible.
如果你的黑色、海軍藍、炭灰色等色調保持在較深的範圍內,這些西裝就會盡可能地百搭。
ASAP Rocky, Mr. Rihanna himself, he is an absolute style god.
ASAP Rocky,蕾哈娜先生本人,他是絕對的時尚之神。
He loves to go freaky and funky with his style, but right here, when he keeps it classic, he shows that even the wildest dressers look good in a plain black suit.
他喜歡怪異和時髦的風格,但就在這裡,當他保持經典風格時,他告訴人們,即使是最狂野的裝扮者,穿上普通的黑色西裝也很好看。
If your style tends to run a little more idiosyncratic, and you feel that black, or navy, or gray feels maybe a little too safe, then you could try a brown suit, which is another very neutral color that goes with a lot of things.
如果你的風格偏向於特立獨行,覺得黑色、海軍藍或灰色有點過於安全,那麼你可以嘗試棕色西裝,這是另一種非常中性的顏色,可以搭配很多東西。
Brown is definitely something that we would consider more of a new classic.
棕色絕對是我們認為的新經典。
If you're looking to buy your first suit, you can start with a black suit, you can start with a navy suit.
如果你想買第一套西裝,你可以從黑色西裝開始,也可以從海軍藍西裝開始。
A great place to look for something like that would be a place like Reece.
像里斯這樣的地方就很適合尋找這樣的東西。
It's a British company.
這是一家英國公司。
They make very classic tailored stuff at very affordable prices.
他們的產品非常經典,價格也非常實惠。
This one is a great example of a suit that won't break the bank, but will also not ever go out of style.
這套西裝就是一個很好的例子,既不會讓你破費,也不會過時。
Another great place to find an affordable suit is J.Crew.
J.Crew 是另一個買得起西裝的好地方。
J.Crew has long been the standard for great American suits that don't cost a lot of money.
長期以來,J.Crew 一直是價格不高的美式西裝的標準。
This is a great example of a clean and classic navy suit that will go with everything, that is a nice weight for the spring and summertime, and will last you a really, really long time.
這是一款簡潔經典的藏青色西裝,可以搭配任何服飾,重量適中,適合春夏季節穿著,而且可以穿很長時間。
Another great mid-range option still clocks in under $1,000, which is a really great value for a suit of this quality, is something from Sid Mashburn.
希德-馬什伯恩(Sid Mashburn)是另一個不錯的中檔選擇,價格仍在 1000 美元以下,對於這種品質的西裝來說,這真是物超所值。
These are the kinds of suits that you would have seen guys like JFK wear.
你會看到像肯尼迪這樣的人穿這種西裝。
They feel presidential.
他們覺得自己是總統。
If a suit isn't making you feel presidential when you wear it, don't bother buying it.
如果一套西裝穿在身上不會讓你覺得自己是總統,那就別買了。
If budget is absolutely no option for you, then the place to go for a suit of this nature is Tom Ford.
如果您預算有限,那麼湯姆-福特(Tom Ford)就是您購買此類西裝的不二之選。
He is a fashion mastermind.
他是一位時尚大師。
His suits are regularly on red carpets all over the world.
他的西裝經常出現在世界各地的紅地毯上。
He spares no expense on the finest, finest tailoring.
他不惜重金打造最精緻、最完美的剪裁。
These suits look so razor-sharp when you wear them.
當你穿上這些西裝時,它們看起來是如此鋒利。
They look like they were molded to your body, and that's worth the cost of admission, even though that cost of admission is pretty prohibitive.
它們看起來就像是為你的身體量身定做的,這就值回票價了,儘管票價相當高昂。
Light and breezy.
風輕雲淡
So, light and breezy suits, probably more of a summertime situation, so you're thinking lighter fabric, cotton, linen, maybe a combo of both.
是以,輕薄透氣的西裝可能更適合夏季穿著,所以你可以考慮輕薄的面料,棉布、亞麻布,或者兩者的組合。
So, the occasions you might want to wear a light and breezy suit, a destination-type wedding.
是以,你可能想穿輕便的西裝,比如目的地型婚禮。
Garden parties.
花園聚會。
Yeah, garden parties would be great.
是啊,花園派對一定很棒。
You know, you can dress these up or down.
你知道,你可以把它們穿得很好看,也可以把它們穿得很難看。
You can pair it with a vacation shirt.
您可以用它搭配度假襯衫。
You can rock it with a polo.
你可以搭配馬球衫。
Maybe throw on some canvas sneakers.
也許可以穿上帆布運動鞋。
Another thing to keep in mind when you're wearing suits like this is that because the fabrics are so light, they're going to wrinkle, and that's just something you have to get used to.
穿這樣的西裝時,還有一點要記住,因為面料很輕,所以會起皺,這一點你必須習慣。
Young is wearing a nice cotton suit from Alex Mill, under $500 for the jacket and the pants.
楊穿著一套亞歷克斯-米爾(Alex Mill)的棉質套裝,外套和褲子不到 500 美元。
On a light and breezy summer garden party situation, this is perfect.
在輕風拂面的夏日花園派對上,這樣的設計再合適不過了。
If you're looking for something in a sort of middle-of-the-road price point, Todd Snyder is a great option.
如果您正在尋找中等價位的產品,Todd Snyder 是一個不錯的選擇。
We've got this guy right here in a nice light olive and lightweight cotton fabric.
我們這裡有一款淺橄欖色的輕質棉織品。
A suit like this is going to stand out a little bit more than a khaki suit, but it's going to go with just as many things.
這樣的西裝會比卡其色西裝更顯眼一些,但也能搭配很多東西。
If you really want to show out for whatever occasion you're going to, this Fear of God suit is.
如果你真的想在任何場合大顯身手,這套 "上帝的恐懼 "套裝就是你的不二之選。
If I see you on the street, applause.
如果我在街上看到你,請鼓掌。
It's made from this really lightweight, sort of silky crepe fabric, so it's not prone to wrinkling like a linen or cotton suit, but it's still lightweight.
它是用一種非常輕薄的絲質縐面料製成的,所以不像亞麻或棉質西裝那樣容易起皺,但它仍然很輕薄。
It's still breathable.
它還很透氣。
It's got this great relaxed silhouette.
它的輪廓非常寬鬆。
A suit like this, it's so luxurious and avant-garde that the flowiness of it does a lot of the talking for you.
像這樣的西裝,它是如此奢華前衛,它的飄逸感為你代言了很多。
Bunky and loud.
碉堡又吵鬧
Bunky and loud suits are suits that will make a serious statement regardless of where you're going.
無論您要去哪裡,朋克風和響亮的西裝都能讓人眼前一亮。
The cut could be super unusual.
剪裁可能超乎尋常。
It could be voluminous.
它可以是浩瀚的。
Donald Glover, for example, is wearing an asymmetrically cut double-breasted suit, again with that telltale slight flare at the bottom, and he looks fantastic.
例如,唐納德-格洛弗(Donald Glover)身著不對稱剪裁的雙排扣西裝,下襬微微外翻,看起來美極了。
The texture could be interesting, like the suit that Kyle's wearing here.
紋理可以很有趣,就像凱爾在這裡穿的衣服。
The color could also be the differentiating factor.
顏色也可能是區別的因素。
It could be super outrageous or extravagant.
它可以超級離譜,也可以超級奢侈。
Light blue in particular will complement you regardless of the occasion.
尤其是淺藍色,無論在什麼場合都能與你相得益彰。
I don't know if there is a swervier suit wearer today more than Harry Styles, the king of funky and loud tailoring.
我不知道當今是否還有比哈里-斯泰爾斯(Harry Styles)更時髦的西裝穿戴者,他是時髦而響亮的剪裁之王。
So Harry's suits are cut fairly distinctively.
是以,哈利的西裝剪裁相當獨特。
You'll notice at the bottom they finish with a pretty heavily flared leg opening, which is a design flourish we've seen more and more brands doing nowadays.
你會注意到,它們的底部是一個相當大的喇叭形褲腿開口,這是我們現在看到越來越多品牌在設計上的一個亮點。
The most important thing to remember is that if you're going to someone else's wedding, it's not your yay, so you don't really want to steal the spotlight.
最重要的一點是,如果你參加的是別人的婚禮,那就不是你的耶,所以你不要搶了別人的風頭。
That being said, if the dress code is ambiguous enough, then feel free to take some creative leeway with the mandate.
話雖如此,如果著裝要求足夠含糊,那就可以在規定方面隨意發揮一些創造性的餘地。
So because this is a funkier and louder suit, you have a little bit more leeway to get a little funkier and louder with the adornment.
所以,因為這是一套更時髦、更響亮的西裝,你就有更多的餘地在裝飾上做得更時髦、更響亮一些。
That means instead of wearing a tie like I am here, you could wear a t-shirt like Kyle is here, or for that matter, a silky button-down and a knit polo.
也就是說,你可以像凱爾一樣穿一件 T 恤,或者絲質鈕釦襯衫和針織馬球衫,而不是像我這樣打領帶。
So if you're looking for an ideal funky and loud mid-range option, you should go to a brand like Needles, which makes the suit that Kyle is wearing today.
是以,如果你正在尋找一個理想的時髦而響亮的中檔選擇,你應該選擇像 Needles 這樣的品牌,它生產凱爾今天穿的這套西裝。
It is absolutely nutty.
它絕對是堅果。
There are these very subtle polka dots going up and down the entire silhouette.
整個輪廓上下都有非常細微的圓點。
It's got these brash peak lapels so big you could land an airplane on them.
它的翻領非常醒目,大得可以讓一架飛機在上面著陸。
And in general, the pants taper down to a bit of a flare at the bottom, which lends the whole thing a bit of a 70s decadent vibe.
總的來說,褲子的下襬逐漸變細,有點喇叭的感覺,這讓整件衣服有點 70 年代的頹廢氣息。
This is a suit that it's almost criminal not to dance in.
這套衣服不穿上跳舞幾乎就是犯罪。
This might sound surprising, but some of streetwear's best and brightest make an incredible statement suit.
這聽起來可能有些出人意料,但一些最出色、最亮眼的街頭服飾卻能讓人眼前一亮。
You can go to Supreme, which routinely releases a handful of really eye-grabbing, tailoring pieces every season, or a place like Stussy, which will be able to outfit you with the same sort of vibe.
你可以去 Supreme,它每季都會推出一些非常搶眼的剪裁單品,或者去 Stussy 這樣的地方,它也能為你提供同樣風格的服飾。
If price isn't much of a pain point, as you can imagine, there are plenty of options like this beautiful double-breasted version from Drake's.
如果價格不是問題所在,你可以想象,還有很多選擇,比如 Drake's 這款漂亮的雙排扣款式。
What's great about this is that it's actually a not-too-distant relative of the suits that we talked about earlier.
最棒的是,它與我們之前談到的西裝其實並不遙遠。
What makes this a little bit more of a statement is the subtle shadow plaid and also the cut here.
讓它更引人注目的是微妙的陰影格紋和剪裁。
Another great double-breasted option with a very different cut is this one from Jerry Lorenzo's label, Fear of God.
傑瑞-洛倫佐(Jerry Lorenzo)的品牌 "上帝的恐懼"(Fear of God)推出了另一款剪裁迥異的雙排扣款式。
So unlike the Drake's option we were referencing earlier, this one's somewhat different because there's only two buttons here, which is very unusual in most double-breasted silhouettes.
與我們之前提到的德雷克的選擇不同,這件衣服有些不同,因為這裡只有兩顆鈕釦,這在大多數雙排扣剪裁中都是非常少見的。
Having a boxy silhouette like this alone is something that will always make a statement without blinding people's eyes.
光是這樣的方形輪廓,就能讓人眼前一亮,又不會讓人覺得刺眼。
We've got a great light blue option here from the Australian tailor Patrick Johnson.
澳洲裁縫帕特里克-約翰遜(Patrick Johnson)為我們提供了一款不錯的淺藍色選擇。
Like the Drake's and Fear of God suits we were talking about before, it's also double-breasted and has these substantial peak lapels.
與我們之前提到的 Drake's 和 Fear of God 西裝一樣,它也是雙排扣,翻領很有質感。
It's made for busting a move.
它就是為扭動身體而設計的。
Mix & Match Mix & Match is about taking different pieces and styling them with different trousers or sport coats that you either have in your wardrobe already or are finding grails out in the world.
混合與搭配 混合與搭配是將不同的單品與不同的褲子或運動外套進行搭配,這些單品要麼是你衣櫥裡已有的,要麼是你在世界上發現的珍品。
This is where you can have a little bit more fun and have more room to really show off your personality.
在這裡,你可以有更多的樂趣和更大的空間來真正展示你的個性。
You probably have a navy suit, you probably have a gray suit.
你可能有一套海軍服,也可能有一套灰色西裝。
Turns out they go well together.
原來它們很配。
So you can kind of really get a few more looks with just two suits.
是以,只需兩套西裝,就能讓你多看幾眼。
One thing that could make it a little bit trickier but also more fun is to play with the different tones and colors and textures.
有一件事可能會讓你覺得有點棘手,但也更有趣,那就是玩不同的色調、顏色和紋理。
So a great starting off point would be with Uniqlo used Relaxed Fit suit.
是以,優衣庫的寬鬆版型西裝是一個很好的起點。
It comes in a variety of neutral toned colors, black, khaki, gray.
它有多種中性色調,黑色、卡其色、灰色。
The jacket alone is only $90, so it's very affordable.
單是夾克就只需 90 美元,非常實惠。
For those who are looking to step it up a tier, the Skooski Sport Coat is the way to go.
對於那些想要更上一層樓的人來說,Skooski 運動外套是不二之選。
It's a little bit more boxy, a little bit more stylish.
它更方正,更時尚。
Still black, so you can add this with any trouser.
還是黑色的,所以可以搭配任何褲子。
You could do a nice dark charcoal pant with it and it would look great, but I might do something on the lighter side like what Kyle's got on.
你可以用它做一條漂亮的深木炭色褲子,看起來會很不錯,但我可能會做一些像凱爾穿的那樣的淺色褲子。
This is also a great jumping off point for some patterned pants too.
這也是一些圖案褲子的絕佳起點。
So a nice track or striped pant would be great for this.
是以,一條漂亮的運動褲或條紋褲就非常適合。
So for another great mid-range option, Engineer Garments makes a nice Lawrence jacket.
是以,Engineer Garments 公司生產的勞倫斯夾克是另一個不錯的中檔選擇。
It goes with everything, very neutral.
它與任何東西都能搭配,非常中性。
At a higher tier option, we have this Mr. P Charcoal Blazer.
在更高級別的選擇中,我們有這款 P 先生炭灰色西裝外套。
It might look kind of plain on the surface, but for this category, this is a really great starting point that's going to get you really far.
從表面上看,這可能有點平淡無奇,但對於這個類別來說,這是一個非常好的起點,能讓你走得更遠。
So that was it for today.
今天就到這裡吧。
Thanks for watching.
感謝觀看。
You can find all of my favorite Skoos, all of our favorite Skoos, in the description below.
您可以在下面的描述中找到我最喜歡的斯庫斯和我們最喜歡的斯庫斯。