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In the last few days of the Easter holidays, I visited Paris by myself.
I visited two years ago and have wanted to return ever since.
There is just so much history to Paris, so much life in the brickwork and stories in the streets, and you feel them vaguely when you walk down the Seine or through the back streets.
It's a magic I wanted to feel again, but also to try feeling alone, so I booked a solo trip for the end of Easter holiday.
I got the Eurostar from London's King's Cross to the Gare du Nord, and I maintain that there is nothing as wonderful as a train ride.
On the Eurostar, I did some writing, I watched some of Sense and Sensibility, and I started reading The Hunchback of Notre Dame, because I'm a big fan of reading location-specific books when you're travelling.
And eventually, my train came into Paris, and it was just as beautiful as I remembered.
I've arrived in Paris, and oh my goodness, this hotel is incredible.
And I've been upgraded. I am going to give you a room tour because I'm actually flabbergasted.
I just called my parents and gave them a room tour because I'm kind of in shock.
I literally just can't believe I'm here.
So when you walk in, there is a reception room in the room itself.
You walk through here, and here's the wardrobe.
This is the bed, and there's a little table where I can do some work.
And then here's the bathroom.
And then the most incredible part, like this has to be the best bit of the room, is this view.
I am actually flabbergasted.
My plan is to go and just wander around the area surrounding the hotel first.
When I'm travelling alone, especially in a city, I don't like to stay out late.
And so you will notice in this video that I come back to the room at like latest 7 every day.
I think I might get changed into something else because you know when you've just travelled in something, and then it feels kind of like, gross.
I always make a list and a plan of things to see before visiting somewhere new.
I mark locations on Google Maps, which means when I'm in the area, I know what's nearby.
And there is a whole section on my map for bookshops to visit.
And in a stroke of good fortune, my hotel is actually less than 3 minutes from the Galignani Bookshop, which is actually the oldest English bookshop on the main continent of Europe.
And it currently holds 50,000 titles.
I was surprised at how many there were that I hadn't seen before as well.
I love the quietness of bookshops, the stillness, and how it becomes a window of timeless meditation.
I wandered up staircases, past ladders, and ran my hand over the wooden 1930s bookshelves.
I was sad to leave when my body reminded me, impatiently, that we still hadn't eaten.
And so I left and walked through the garden to Wildermood for dinner.
There are so many birds everywhere.
And they're not just pigeons, which is quite refreshing for a city.
They're kind of, they're crows. I always want to say ravens when it's crows.
And there are ducks. There are mallards. Mallards?
There are mallard ducks, which is really quite bizarre.
This is a tuna salad, but it's made up of, um, this is, like, tops I can't eat.
It's been a long time since I've had an immersion in cinema.
And after that, I went back to my room and pondered if life is really real right now.
So I went to that bookshop earlier, and it was just magical.
I spent about 40 minutes looking around, and I saw so many books that I haven't seen anywhere in England.
And I do go bookshopping quite a lot.
So even though they were English books and they were being imported to France, I found so many.
Like, it's so well-stocked. Loads of beautiful editions as well.
Like, editions that I didn't even realise were in print.
Third edition is this.
Um, they are the Eris Gems.
When I saw this, I knew I had to get it.
It's Unpacking My Library by Walter Benjamin.
And there is Walter Benjamin.
The PDF of this essay is only about four pages.
But I was recommended to read it last term by one of my tutors, and I loved it.
I just think it encapsulates the art of book collecting and the value of books as physical objects, as opposed to just texts.
It bridges the gap between the two really well, and articulates it in a way that I couldn't articulate for myself.
So reading this really changed my perspective, or at least helped me tap into ideas that I already had around the division between book object and text.
Anyway, I'm going to do a little bit of work, actually.
Um, it's about nine o'clock, and there is a poem.
I just got sent over from Yale.
I requested this scan of this document about three or four weeks ago, and I've been anticipating it so much.
I'm really looking forward to reading it and transcribing it.
So I'm actually going to sit and transcribe it and, like, write a paragraph about it and start thinking about it now, because I just cannot wait.
I'm so excited to look at it.
I'm going to do some work, and I'm going to be using my iPad, so I'm going to change my VPN for when I'm working.
Of course, I do that every single time.
Especially in hotels, it is a really good idea to change your VPN address.
The VPN server I use is NordVPN, of course.
It's the fastest VPN server out there, and it is so easy to use.
You have this big map, and then you can choose which location you want to change your VPN to.
I also just find when I'm travelling that I want to be using a UK web browser, because the results that you get obviously change depending on which country your VPN is registered to.
So just for ease, I like to switch my VPN address to somewhere like London.
So if you have the meaning to change your VPN address, you can use my link to get an extra four months free on the two-year plan.
Thank you so much, NordVPN, and I'm going to get to reading that poem, because I'm really excited.
So here I am just doing some work.
I still cannot tell you how exciting it is to work with any sort of manuscript.
I just love working with manuscripts, even manuscript scans, and this poem did not disappoint.
It was just as riveting as I was hoping it would be.
And then before bed, I just read some of Sartre's Nausea.
Sartre was an existentialist philosopher who lived in Paris, and Nausea is a novel which uses fiction to explain his existentialist philosophy.
The big idea with Sartre is that purpose is something we create for ourselves, that we're not born with purpose.
His very famous quote is,
For Sartre, this self-creation of purpose can be very restrictive and claustrophobic, and you definitely get that in Nausea.
The fruit salad is so good.
To also get ready, I've put on some makeup while I was waiting for breakfast, because as soon as I'm finished, I'm going to head out.
But I'm kind of in the mood for...
They've also given me so much bread.
These birds are so funny.
You know, they really remind me of the birds in the Cave Birds illustrations by Leonardo Baskin.
It was a 30-minute walk to the coffee shop, over the Seine and past the bookstores, and under the new morning light, which made the water glow silver.
Oh, and I'm so tired.
It was a 30-minute walk to the coffee shop, over the Seine and past the bookstores, and under the new morning light, which made the water glow silver.
Oh, and I also popped into every church I could as I walked, because I cannot resist good ecclesiastic architecture.
Honestly, it's one of my favourite things about visiting somewhere new.
I just feel like you can get a really good sense of a place and its architectural history from visiting churches, so would highly recommend, especially because they're usually free to enter.
I'm actually heading over to the Sartre Cafe now.
Le Dumago is a cafe known for hosting authors in Paris, so Sartre frequented here, also Albert Camus, Picasso, Simone de Beauvoir.
Oh, I also spotted this really cool sculpture.
These are all books.
This cafe was one of the top things I did want to go to.
So, of course, I bought my own little notebook to do some writing with an espresso.
An espresso, because France isn't the best on milk alternatives, I would not say that this is my top choice.
But somehow the espresso tasted better because the surroundings were so wonderful.
It's pouring the rain, and I'm soaking wet.
And then I went to the second bookshop on my list, another English bookshop called the Abbey Bookshop, which is very nearby, which is this wonderful, spiralling cavern of books, so vibrant and eclectic that you could get lost in the arched stone walls in the cellar and stuck between the narrow and haphazardly stacked shelves of books.
There were old and new books here, and again, just such an excellent variety.
This was also empty when I visited, and there is something wonderful about an empty bookshop.
This bookshop is incredible.
I think I'm going to get this one.
I think I'll buy this one.
I curled my hair this morning, but it got so wet that all of the curls came out.
I'm just getting ready.
I am changing.
I'm going for a very, very fancy meal, and I wasn't sure if I would book this.
I booked it really last minute.
I booked it yesterday.
I would love to go in and see the architecture.
So I'm going to go to The Ritz for lunch today, and they've got a vegan mushroom pasta.
Whenever mushroom and vegan go together in a sentence, it becomes a requisite order from the menu.
This is my outfit.
I'm wearing this set, and it's one of my favourite outfits.
It's maybe a little bit chilly for it, but also I'm sure it'll be warm inside.
And then I'm going to bring my notebook and book, of course.
It was so sunny, literally just five minutes ago.
Now I love the rain, but I did end up taking shelter for another espresso, and this time I made a list of some paintings I wanted to see in the Orsay that afternoon.
I like to do this whenever I visit a gallery so that I have a goal and something to look for.
Sometimes it will just be one painting, because I do like to wander around galleries.
There's something wonderful about that.
But jotting down the room numbers of my top ten paintings can help me to know which direction to generally go in.
With my list secured, I went to the Orsay.
This is housed in the former Gare d'Orsay, a railway station built between 1898 and 1900, which closed in 1939 and became a gallery in the 80s.
Old train stations are some of my favourite kinds of buildings, especially when they have glass roofs like this one, and I spent some time just admiring the architecture first, and climbing right to the top of the building so that I could see it in full.
Now this gallery mainly holds French art from the 19th and early 20th century, which is one of my favourite periods of art, and I think there's something fitting about it then being in a train station.
It's a place of movement and travel and change, which is what we see between the Art Nouveau and the Impressionist movement in Paris.
Fortunately, this was actually the temporary exhibition, which was on while I was there.
It's the 1874 Impressionism exhibition, it's running for a few months, and I cannot believe that my trip aligned with this.
They did this in the salon style, with these dark red walls and beautiful gilded frames, and this is the first time curators have tried to recreate it.
Like, this was an actual exhibition from 1874, which has been resurrected.
There were some amazing paintings in this exhibition as well, like some bucket list paintings, and I've pictured my favourites.
Recently I've been loving Impressionist, but at the moment I would say it's my favourite kind of art.
The colours of the Impressionists are probably my favourite, like especially with the cityscapes and the Docklands, which are so often pictured.
These are scenes which shouldn't maybe be so beautiful, but with the light pinks and the mauves and the blues, it looks beautiful.
Using these colours of morning, they're able to cast this wonderful bucolic light onto these cityscapes.
I do think that the Impressionists are the true experts of romanticising your life, and seeing these beautiful things which sometimes we can miss.
It's what Baudelaire talks about in his essay, The Painter of Modern Life.
In it, Baudelaire argues that the painter is unique and talented because he's able to see things which not everyone is able to see, and then translate this into an art which lets people see it.
Weeping willows next to the sea.
I don't know why there's something so wonderfully poetic about that.
It's 8 o'clock, I'm in bed for the day, and I can't quite process how many wonderful things I saw today.
The Orsay was incredible.
I think, well, one of the best museums I've seen, one of the best galleries I've seen.
The Impressionism exhibition was especially great.
It's the 1874 one, which marks a shift in the impression before and after of this artistic shift.
There was this big display in 1874.
Many of the great Impressionist artists were first shown in the salon and given acclaim for this style of art.
This is the first time that there's been an attempt to try and put these pieces back together.
It's incredible that my trip aligned with this, especially because last term at uni,
I did a module in fin de siècle art and literature, and we looked at a few Parisian writers.
Very cool to see those.
I also saw the Gustave Dore, and the clocks as well were just amazing.
I love clocks.
Now I'm wondering if there's a clock museum or something in Paris that I could go to, but I don't really have time to be fair.
There are so many things I do want to see, like there's the Gustave Moreau museum, which I really want to go to, and I really want to go to the Victor Hugo house as well, which maybe if I have time I'll go to tomorrow morning, but I just don't know if I will.
I'm running out of time, I've only got one full day left.
I've got a few snacks to have in the room, but I wanted to try this.
It's the carrot hummus from Wild and Moon.
It's so small, this was 6 euros.
This was something I really wanted to try while I was in Paris.
And then I got a baguette to go with that, and some crisps.
And mushrooms, because I really like eating raw mushrooms.
It was between mushrooms and carrots, because I wanted something fresh, and I love eating raw mushrooms and I love eating raw carrots, but I feel like English carrots are better, and whenever I buy carrots and I'm not in the UK I end up regretting it, because they're just not as flavourful as the ones I think we get in UK supermarkets.
So hopefully this will be flavourful.
Good morning, it's my last full day in Paris, and I'm going to head down to Sainte-Chapelle, which is where I'm going this morning.
I'm booked in for 9am, and it's currently 8.35am, so I might be 5 minutes late now that I'm thinking about it.
You know one thing about Paris?
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
It's so quiet.
You know one thing I really love?
Is how many statues there are everywhere.
It's just exquisite.
The way the light plays on the floor and dapples the air and never quite stays still.
The light refracts with colour the intricate webs of biblical stories forming patterns of their own.
Flowers and crowns as well as Job's tableau images.
Beauty and intricacy but also periphery as I turn in circles to see it in miniature.
At scale.
Without any context.
Just pure impression and effect.
This is where Jesus' crown is kept.
The crown of thorns.
His passions preserved.
What better protection than a glass so fragile but also so beautiful that it becomes impossible to break.
Night comes early in Jaguar.
The streets are already dark.
Okay now for the thing I've been most excited about in Paris.
Like literally my two favourite things right next to each other.
The Notre Dame which is I've never seen inside but it's still my favourite cathedral in the world.
And here is Shakespeare and Co.
We didn't go last time we were in Paris because we weren't anywhere near Notre Dame.
We didn't come this way.
But we're here.
Of course.
Shakespeare and Co.
This is the iconic bookshop.
An all English bookshop which everyone talks about when they go to Paris and I have wanted to go here for such a long time I can't even tell you and it lived up to every expectation.
It was just exquisite.
The architecture, the design, the quotes which just speckled every surface.
There was so much detail and it was a haven.
I sat actually inside for an hour and a half to read Notre Dame, The Hunchback of Notre
Dame and I think it was one of the best moments of my trip.
Okay I just went to Shakespeare and Co and last minute I realised they had like a rare books modern first editions room so of course I went in and I ended up buying a first edition 8th imprint of Biobodies by Ethan Vaughan.
Now by this point it is probably abundantly clear that I was not making the most of the culinary opportunities of Paris and the restaurants that were available.
I was just really in the mood for a smoothie bowl so I went to Wildermoon again and got a smoothie bowl before going to the Louvre.
It's so busy in here.
I must say I'm struck by how many of these sculptures were printed in the 17th century.
Like they're not wholly original, they were discovered and then something was changed about them before they were used as decorative arts in houses for example this one was bought by King Louis XIV.
So this is Juno and by adding the globe, so a modern historian again has changed it and added something, they've added a globe and it says here that this thus makes her Urania like the muse of astronomy, the god of astronomy.
So this sculpture is called Time Lifting Up Virtue and the Arts and we've got Venus here surrounded by three cherubins who are representing each kind of three different artistic forms, one of which is the severed head which is actually quite concerning.
I think it's wonderful to show kind of the emotion but also the progeny of art, the fact that it's being represented through this maternal imagery.
This one is Daphne and Cleo and I love how she's already wearing a tiara but it's going to be like a crown for this laurel instead.
I've been thinking of the decorative arts of the 18th century.
Ages now and I've finally found it.
This is the furniture of Louis XVI and it's spectacular.
Look how beautiful that chair is and I love the door control.
So the funny thing is the reason in the first instance I booked this trip was because I wanted to go to the Louvre to see a load of paintings that I had on my list.
I kid you not I saw two of like the 20 I wrote down because everything was so hard to find and I'm so pleased that it's raining.
I'm actually so glad I'm out of that.
I was only there for two hours but it felt like ages.
That was the worst thing I've done in Paris.
It's just I feel like art galleries require silence and stillness.
Often I can see a painting that I maybe don't objectively like as much or I wouldn't objectively like as much but because it's quiet and because you have the space for like mental reflection and thinking.
Now the camera for some reason stopped recording halfway through saying this but the general gist is I think the atmosphere of looking at a painting can affect how much you like it as well as the painting itself.
I'm sitting so weirdly.
When I go out from the Louvre I had a nap.
I had a two hour nap.
It was really overwhelming that museum.
I would recommend if you're coming to Paris I would recommend either getting like a 9am slot which so many people said to do but I didn't.
I would recommend doing that.
There's a reason people say to do that or alternately there are so many great other museums.
We get sidetracked by the massive ones because they're the ones that show up on like TripAdvisor when we're looking but there are some great sometimes you can find really famous paintings in really small museums and you don't expect them to be there but then they are.
I just found out that the Nocturne painting which is on my I've got a list of paintings
I want to see in real life at some point and Nocturne is on there and that's in Detroit which felt really random to me because it's such a famous painting which I just kind of expected would be in the Met or somewhere like the Louvre.
I wasn't going to go out for dinner tonight but I'm really craving pizza like I'm really in the mood for pizza.
I'm also going to show you what I pack when I go out of the house like what I'll bring to this restaurant since I'll be eating alone so like what do I bring with me and this is the same thing I bought to my fancy lunch yesterday.
Like they offered me a newspaper when I came in they said do you want a copy of the New
York Times because they had one but I'd come prepared.
I have my Sartre and I have my notebook so I didn't need it.
The two big things that I like to bring are a book and a notebook.
Today I'm going to be bringing the Hunchback of Notre Dame which I was reading earlier.
I got up to page 100 in Shakespeare and Company.
I read like 50 pages in that and truly I think that was one of my favorite moments of Paris like just sitting in this room there was it was me and another girl and it was otherwise empty really quite quiet and the windows wide open and you could I mean if you if you went up to the window and you looked out you could see the Notre Dame.
You could hear like the sounds of Paris just on the wind outside and these great massive like green trees which were whispering just beyond the window.
So I sat and read that and I would recommend if you go to Shakespeare and Company like just put aside two hours to stay there.
Part of me wants to go back tomorrow but I also had such a perfect experience today that I don't necessarily want to taint it by going back.
Like I've got such a great vivid memory.
I've made a vivid memory of the space and I don't feel like I need to go back because the memory itself is already so great.
Anyway I'm actually going to go back and show you what's in my bag.
I've also got this notebook which is the one that I've been carrying everywhere.
I always like to have a musings notebook on the go and I'm using it for planning some writing that I'm doing.
So then I've got this handbag.
So I'll be bringing my phone which I've decorated with some stickers.
And then I've got 15 euros in cash.
Rennie tablets.
I've got this cute little hand mirror which Ellie got me when she came down to see me in Oxford.
Then I'll bring my airpods.
A mint balm dot com.
More Rennie tablets.
And then I've got two pens.
I've got the V5 high tech 0.5 nib pen by Pilot.
And then I've also got my trusted Burgundy Parker pen.
So I popped back into the Gallegnani bookshop on my way to dinner and I went for pizza.
I wrote my Paris reflections as well.
Every time I travel somewhere I write up reflections on what I learnt, on my favourite things that happened.
Something I would really recommend so that you can look back on your trip and get back into the headspace of your trip.
And then I came back to the room and just marvelled at the fact that I was actually in
Paris because it never did quite feel real.
I was alone but I walked like a dog.
I was alone but I walked like a band of soldiers descending into a town.
I have no need to speak in flowery language.
I am writing to understand certain circumstances.
I must beware of literature.
I must let my pen run on without searching for words.
Perhaps there is nothing in the world I value more than this feeling of adventure.
But it comes when it pleases.
It goes away so quickly and how dry I feel when it is gone.
Does it pay me those brief ironical visits in order to show me that my life is a failure?
Behind me in the town, in the big straight streets lit up by the cold light of the street lamps, a tremendous social event was dying.
It was the end of Sunday.
And I did feel a sadness as my trip came to an end.
Like something was dying.
I don't know.
I've been looking forward to this trip so much.
I've been planning it for about eight months and so it was just very strange to kind of see it over.
I went out for an espresso in the morning and I read some more of the Sartre book and
I also picked up some gifts for the hotel reception because they were just really lovely and helpful.
I'm leaving very soon.
I'm going to check out of the hotel as soon as I film this.
But I wanted to give a quick haul of what I bought while I was in Paris.
I mainly bought books but I also bought postcards because I collect postcards and I also like to send them to people.
There's one thing that is neither of those though, which is this.
You stick it on a window and then it replicates stained glass.
This one.
This is the one I'm going to write my reflections about the Dorcet Museum on.
And I got this one for Blakeney because it reminds me of that scene in Little Women, you know the beach scene.
This one from Saint-Chapelle.
And then this one from the Louvre yesterday.
I just love this painting so much.
Unconcerned curiosity of this girl as she reaches out to touch the dead bird.
It's a really haunting painting.
And then I also got two bookmarks.
This is the famous Rue de Campuchin by Monet.
And then this is a fresco by Botticelli.
So then, books.
This is the big thing.
There is, first of all from Shakespeare and Co.
I did buy the iconic pouch.
I do not need any more tote bags.
But pouches like this, especially when they're perfect book size, are actually really useful.
The camera's just going to slow lower because you're on a pile of books.
So I bought Unpacking My Library by Walter Benjamin.
I got Street Haunting by Virginia Woolf.
And then, of course, I got this stamped with the iconic Shakespeare and Co. stamp.
And then I got a rare book as well.
I got Vile Bodies by Evelyn Wong because my friend Lucy and I are planning on reading this next term.
And I made the very controversial decision.
Like, the guy said, are you sure you want to do this?
To actually get the stamp in it, it took me about 10 minutes of deliberation as I was walking around the shop.
I love the idea of books as objects collecting stories and holding the places that they have been and holding stories within.
And the idea that they hold a textual story, but the book itself also holds the story of kind of where it's been and who's read it.
And because it does have the 1931 inscription on the front,
I actually really love the idea of it then having a mark of the fact that it found its way into the Shakespeare and Co. bookshop at some point.
And I love the frontispiece, like the vibrancy of that.
And then finally, the Abbey Bookshop.
I saw this book when I was in Scotland last year.
It's actually a journal. It's called the Analog Sea Review.
I love the idea of this.
It's a journal which never publishes online and it positions itself as an antidote to online journal culture.
There is so much construction work happening at the moment in Paris.
You can kind of see it behind me.
I'm now actually going to go to the Musée de l'Orange.
And of course, the famous thing here is the water lilies, which I cannot believe I have now seen in person.
The water lilies, like God's gardens themselves, were painted for quiet meditation.
A stillness and focus which becomes inevitable when you stare for long enough.
The ripples of lilac and of azure, flecks and strokes of oil which let the water move.
You can fool yourself, inevitable really when you remember that it's all an illusion anyway.
And that this painting is just a moment, jigsawed and created from many other moments, painted in the winter and remembering the summer.
The clouds in the water perpetually floating, and my soul sits, though itself made from movement.
My soul is all of the madness and movement which came before it.
A compendium which for just a moment becomes part of Monet's water lilies.
Though all of it will droop into rot eventually, become covered with brown sludge and decay.
But not now, not yet.
Look at the sun!
You know, today might actually be my favourite day of the trip, just because I didn't have anything planned.
So I casually went in and saw the Monet, which was wonderful.
And now I'm walking on the snow.
Life doesn't feel real right now.
But anyway, that brings us to the end of this video.
Thank you so much for watching.
We know it's quite a long video, so I appreciate you watching to the end.
It was such a magical trip, so beautiful, I'm so pleased that I took it.
And I hope that your day is filled with magic, and that good things happen today.
Thank you for watching!