THANKS FOR JOINING US AS WE SHARE

SOME OF MY FAVORITE EUROPEAN DISCOVERIES.

WE'RE STARTING ATOP THE ZUGSPITZE,

THE MIGHTIEST OF GERMAN PEAKS AT 10,000 FEET.

THE ZUGSPITZE STRADDLES TWO GREAT NATIONS.

I'M IN GERMANY.

I'M IN AUSTRIA.

DESCENDING THE AUSTRIAN SIDE OF THE ZUGSPITZE,

WE'LL SEE BUSY INNSBRUCK BUT STAY IN SMALL TOWN TIROL.

AFTER CROSSING THE ALPS OVER BRENNER PASS,

WE'LL TOUR MY FAVORITE MEDIEVAL CASTLE INTERIOR

AND MAKE OF KASTELRUTH OUR HOME BASE

FOR SAMPLING ITALY'S RUGGED DOLOMITES.

IN WESTERN EUROPE,

AUSTRIA AND ITALY SHARE A BORDER ALONG THE ALPS.

STARTING IN AUSTRIA,

WE'LL TRAVEL THROUGH INNSBRUCK AND THE TIROL

BEFORE CROSSING THE BRENNER PASS INTO ITALY.

THERE, WE'LL MAKE STOPS AT BOLZANO AND KASTELRUTH.

THIS CROSS MARKS THE SPOT

WHERE CLIMBERS FIRST REACHED THE SUMMIT HERE IN 1851.

WHILE THIS MARKS THE HIGHEST POINT IN GERMANY,

WE'RE HEADING INTO AUSTRIA,

WHERE THERE ARE PLENTY OF HIGHER PEAKS.

FROM HERE, THE ALPS ARC BEFORE US

LIKE A GRAND ALPINE SYMPHONY.

AT THE ZUGSPITZE SUMMIT,

AS ON SO MANY EUROPEAN MOUNTAINTOPS,

YOU'LL FIND RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, AND WELL-ENTERTAINED TOURISTS.

THE GERMAN SIDE IS SCALED BY A COGWHEEL TRAIN

AND CABLE CAR FROM GARMISCH,

ABOUT AN HOUR'S RIDE TO THE NORTH.

THIS SPEEDY TRAM IS TAKING US DOWN THE AUSTRIAN SIDE

TO THE VILLAGE OF EHRWALD, WHERE WE PARKED OUR CAR.

THE FAMOUS ZUGSPITZE ATTRACTS TRAVELERS

FROM AROUND THE WORLD.

ESCAPING THE TOURIST CROWD TAKES A LITTLE INITIATIVE

AND, TO REACH SOME PLACES, A CAR.

WE'RE DRIVING TO FALLERSHEIN,

A TINY TUMBLE OF LOG CABINS AT THE END OF A NARROW ROAD.

OUR GOAL?

TO CATCH A GLIMPSE OF AUSTRIA

AS IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN A CENTURY AGO.

FALLERSHEIN, AT 4,000 FEET,

REPLACES THE MODERN SCRAMBLE WITH A FLOWER-SPECKLED WORLD

OF SERENE SLOPES AND ANDANTE COWBELLS.

THUNDERSTORMS ROLL DOWN THIS VALLEY

LIKE IT'S GOD'S BOWLING ALLEY, AND BRACED AGAINST THE WEATHER,

THE TINY HAMLET CONTINUES TO SURVIVE.

DAILY LIFE AND THE VILLAGE ECONOMY

HAS REVOLVED MOSTLY AROUND THE COWS.

ORIGINALLY THIS WAS A SUMMERTIME-ONLY COMMUNITY

OF DAIRY FARMERS.

BUT TODAY, THE VILLAGE IS ALSO POPULAR AS A ROMANTIC RETREAT

FOR AUSTRIAN VACATIONERS WHO'VE RENTED CABINS HERE.

FALLERSHEIN IS FAMOUS AMONG THOSE IN THE KNOW

AS A RUSTIC GETAWAY.

HIKERS AND BUDGET TRAVELERS BED DOWN HERE

IN THE ALMWIRTSCHAFT FALLERSHEIN.

ABOVE THE MOUNTAIN RESTAURANT,

THERE'S A LOFT FILLED WITH MATTRESSES.

THIS IS A MATTRESS LOFT ORmatratzenlager.

THROUGHOUT THE ALPS,

"lager"IS A KEY WORD FOR "CHEAP BED."

THElagerAND RESTAURANT ARE OPEN MAY THROUGH OCTOBER,

WEATHER-PERMITTING.

AFTER FALLERSHEIN, INNSBRUCK,

A COUPLE HOURS' AWAY BY CAR, FEELS LIKE A METROPOLIS.

SIX HUNDRED YEARS AGO, THIS POPULAR TOURIST STOP

) WAS THE HAPSBURG CAPITAL OF THE TIROL.

BY THE TIME THEY GOT HERE,

THE HAPSBURGS WERE WELL ON THEIR WAY

TO BEING EUROPE'S MOST POWERFUL FAMILY.

THEY EXPANDED AND CONSOLIDATED THEIR VAST EMPIRE

THROUGH CLEVER ALLIANCES

AND POLITICALLY HELPFUL MARRIAGES.

THIS MUCH-OGLED GOLDEN ROOF

WAS BUILT BY HAPSBURG EMPEROR MAXIMILIAN IN 1496.

THE ROOF, WITH OVER 2,500 GILDED COPPER TILES,

REMAINS THE TOWN'S CENTERPIECE.

THE HAPSBURGS RULED HERE UNTIL THE END OF WORLD WAR I.

INNSBRUCK'S MEDIEVAL CENTER IS NOW A PEDESTRIAN ZONE.

LOOKING PAST THE CROWDS,

IT STILL FEELS LIKE AN OLD PROVINCIAL CAPITAL.

THE CITY'S FOLK MUSEUM IS A MEDIEVAL TIROLEAN HOME SHOW.

CRIBS WERE DECORATED WITH CHRISTIAN THEMES

TO BE SURE GOD WATCHED OVER THE LITTLE BABY,

BUT JUST TO COVER ALL THEIR SPIRITUAL BASES,

A PRE-CHRISTIAN DRUID PENTAGRAM WAS CARVED ON THE HEADBOARD.

AND OFFERING ANOTHER KIND OF PROTECTION WAS THIS MAN,

A SALTNER OR HUMAN SCARECROW

WHO GUARDED THE VINEYARDS FROM BOARS, FOXES, AND BIRDS.

THIS EXHIBIT SHOWS OFF THE REGION'S TRADITION

OF FINE WOOD CARVING.

WHILE THIS COULD BE ANY TIROLEAN VILLAGE,

IT'S BETHLEHEM IN THE ALPS.

BIBLE STORIES LIKE THIS NATIVITY SCENE

MADE MOST SENSE TO LOCALS

WHEN PRESENTED IN A FAMILIAR HOMETOWN SETTING.

ONE OF INNSBRUCK'S MOST FAMOUS SITES

IS ABOVE THE CITY, THE SKI JUMP.

THE SPOTLIGHT OF THE WORLD WAS ON INNSBRUCK

AS IT HOSTED THE WINTER OLYMPICS TWICE IN 1964 AND '76.

SPORTS FANS MAY RECALL MANY INFAMOUS CRASHES OFF THIS JUMP.

FOR SAFER SPORT,

HIKERS TAKE TO THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS ON FOOT.

INNSBRUCK'S WORTH A QUICK LOOK,

BUT I PREFER A SMALL TOWN, ONE WITH FEWER TOURISTS.

TONIGHT WE'RE SLEEPING FIVE MILES DOWNSTREAM

IN THE TOWN OF HALL.

BEFORE THE TIME OF THE HAPSBURGS,

HALL IN TIROL WAS A RICH, SALT-MINING CENTER

AND INNSBRUCK WAS, AS ITS NAME IMPLIES,

JUST A HUMBLE BRIDGE TOWN ON THE INN RIVER.

SO HALL'S MEDIEVAL CENTER

IS ACTUALLY LARGER THAN INNSBRUCK'S.

LAID-BACK HALL CRADLES ITS MARKET SQUARE.

HALL'S PASTEL BUILDINGS AND COBBLED STREETS

FEEL REFRESHINGLY REAL...

TOO REAL IF YOU'RE TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH ANYTHING MORE

THAN A LEISURELY LUNCH FROM NOON TO 2:00,

WHEN EVERYTHING CLOSES.

AND IN SMALL-TOWN EUROPE,

MANY RESTAURANTS TAKE AN ENTIRE WEEKDAY OFF.

THIS SIGN SAYS"Heute Ruhetag."

THAT'S GERMAN FOR "TODAY IS OUR QUIET DAY."

DURING THE RULE OF THE HAPSBURGS,

HALL'S CASTLE SERVED AS THE LOCAL MINT.

FIVE HUNDRED YEARS AGO, THIS HOW YOU MADE MONEY.

TRADITIONAL METHODS ARE STILL USED HERE

TO STRIKE SHINY SOUVENIR COINS.

BACK WHEN SALT WAS MONEY, HALL WAS LOADED.

THE TOWN'S ELEGANT ARCHITECTURE AND RICH CHURCH

MAKE IT CLEAR THAT IN ITS DAY, HALL WAS A LOCAL POWERHOUSE.

THIS MUCH-APPENDED GOTHIC CHURCH IS DECORATED BAROQUE

WITH FINE ALTARS, GILDED STARBURSTS,

AND THE SKULLS AND SKELETONS OF SAINTS,

EERIE RELICS THAT LOOK BACK AT YOU.

[ bell tolling ]

THE OLD PEDESTRIAN BRIDGE LEADS OVER THE INN RIVER

AND TO OUR HOTEL.

IN EUROPE, I RELY ON A GOOD GUIDEBOOK FOR HOTEL LISTINGS,

MAKE RESERVATIONS BY TELEPHONE A DAY OR TWO IN ADVANCE,

AND RECONFIRM WITH ANOTHER PHONE CALL BEFORE SHOWING UP.

GASTHOF BADL IS A FRIENDLY PLACE RUN BY FRAU STEINER.

IT'S CONVENIENT AND OFFERS A WARM WELCOME.

AS IN MANY HOTELS,

TOURIST-INFORMATION BROCHURES IN ENGLISH

ARE READILY AVAILABLE IN THE LOBBY.

FRAU STEINER IS CHECKING TO SEE

IF THERE'S A TIROLEAN FOLK EVENING NEARBY.

[ speaking German ]

YES, EVERYTHING WILL BE FINE FOR THIS EVENING.

GREAT, THANKS.

OKAY, SO TONIGHT IN THE VILLAGE OF MAURACH

WE'VE GOT A FOLK EVENING.

IT STARTS AT 21:00. EUROPE USES THE 24-HOUR CLOCK.

SO, ANYTHING OVER 12, SUBTRACT 12 AND ADD P.M.

2100 MINUS 12: 9:00 P.M.

ALL RIGHT, WE HAVE TIME FOR DINNER,

AND FRAU STEINER IS JOINING US.

THE CUISINE OF THE TIROL IS NOT TO BE MISSED.

GUEST HOUSES TAKE PRIDE IN SERVING LOCAL SPECIALTIES,

SUCH AS SPAETZLE, ROAST PORK AND SAUERKRAUT

YOU MUST LIKE DUMPLINGS.

YOU ORDERED THE DUMPLING EXTRAVAGANZA HERE.

I LOVE DUMPLINGS.

THEY ARE SPECIAL TIROLEAN...

IT'S A QUICK COURSE IN FINE EATING,

DUMPLINGS 101.

YOU DON'T WANT TO TELL US THE SECRET OF THE DUMPLING?

I THINK I HAVE TO KEEP THE SECRET OF TIROL

WITH THE DUMPLINGS.

OH, WELL.

WE'LL HAVE TO TAKE COMFORT IN THE APPLE STRUDEL.

OKAY, ON TO SOME MUSIC.

[ man whooping, accordion music playing ]

TIROLEAN FOLK EVENINGS, LIKE MOST FOLK EVENINGS,

MIGHT BE TOURISTY,

BUT A ROWDY DOSE OF SLAP-DANCING

OFFERS A LIVELY GLIMPSE OF TRADITION.

HOW DID THE CUSTOM START?

STRUTTING YOUR LEDERHOSEN AND SCHNAPPS

MUST BE IN THERE SOMEWHERE.

RATHER THAN A BIG-CITY STAGE SHOW,

WE'VE OPTED FOR A SMALL-TOWN HOTEL EVENING.

IT'S INTIMATE, LIVELY, AND RIGHT IN YOUR LAP.

[ whooping and music continues ]

[ music ends ]

SLAP DANCING IS A SNAPPY CAP

TO OUR FOLK EVENING IN THE TIROL.

WE'LL BE YODELING IN OUR DREAMS.

FOR A CAR-HIKERS' LOOK AT LIFE IN THE HIGH ALPS,

WE'RE TAKING THE TOLL ROAD

UP TO 5,000-FOOT-HIGH HINTERHORNALM.

Guten Tag.

Bitte. Weidersehen.

DETAILED MAPS SHOW THE TINIEST OF ROADS

LEADING TO THE GRANDEST OF ALPINE PERCHES.

THE MOUNTAINS SURROUNDING HALL AND INNSBRUCK

ARE A NATURE LOVER'S WONDERLAND,

OFFERING COUNTLESS MOUNTAIN LIFTS, HUTS,

AND A LIFETIME OF TRAILS.

WHETHER YOU'RE CAR HIKING, BIKING,

ROCK CLIMBING, OR PARASAILING,

THESE ALPS DEMAND ONLY AS MUCH EXERCISE

AS YOU FEEL LIKE GIVING.

FROM THE PARKING LOT AT THE END OF THE ROAD,

IT'S A LEVEL, 20-MINUTE STROLL TO THE WALDERALM FARM.

THIS IS ACTUALLY A CLUSTER OF THREE FAMILY-RUN DAIRY FARMS

SHARING THEIR MEADOW WITH THE CLOUDS.

[ cowbell clanging ]

SEVENTY COWS ENJOY RIDGE-TOP RAMBLES

SURROUNDED BY CUT-GLASS PEAKS.

TODAY, HAPPY HIKERS CAN SAMPLE WILD MUSHROOM SOUP FOR LUNCH,

AND MILK DOESN'T GET ANY FRESHER.

SO...FRESH!

THE BRENNER PASS HAS BEEN THE EASIEST WAY OVER THE ALPS

SINCE ROMAN TIMES.

NEARLY 2,000 YEARS AGO,

ROMAN LEGIONS FOLLOWED THIS ROUTE, THE VIA CLAUDIA,

ON THEIR WAY NORTH TO CONQUER MUCH OF EUROPE.

WELL-GROOVED SECTIONS OF THE ORIGINAL ROAD

ARE STILL PRESERVED.

TODAY, THE BRENNER PASS IS EASIER THAN EVER TO CROSS

AS DRIVERS ARC GRACEFULLY

ALONG ONE OF THE ENGINEERING WONDERS OF EUROPE.

FROM THE TOP, THE EUROPABRUCKE,

OR EUROPE'S BRIDGE, FEELS LIKE A FREEWAY,

BUT FROM THE WINDY OLD ROAD AT THE VALLEY FLOOR,

IT LOOKS LIKE A MIGHTY SCULPTURE.

THE FREEWAY ZIPS DRIVERS FROM INNSBRUCK

TO THE ITALIAN BORDER IN ABOUT 30 MINUTES.

HOW ABOUT PASTA FOR LUNCH?

THESE DAYS, CROSSING BORDERS IN EUROPE IS A WAVE-THROUGH.

[ man shouts indistinctly ]

[ laughs ] IT'S SO EASY!

THE AUTOMOBILE CLUB AT THE BORDER IS WORTH A STOP.

OKAY, WE'D LIKE TO GO TO SELLA PASS.

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY?

AND YOU GO TO THE EXIT ON THE AUTOBAHN.

FROM HERE TO THE VAL GARDENA IN SANTA CHRISTINA

SELVA, AND THEN FROM HERE TO THE SELLA PASS.

SELLA PASS, IT'S HERE.

OKAY, GOOD. [ speaks Italian ]

WHILE THE AUTOBAHN IN AUSTRIA AND GERMANY IS TOLL-FREE,

THE ITALIAN AUTOSTRADA HAS PLENTY OF TOLLBOOTHS,

BUT THAT'S NOTHING NEW HERE.

FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS,

TRAVELERS HAVE HAD TO PAY TO CROSS BRENNER PASS.

SINCE ROMAN TIMES,

THIS STRATEGIC VALLEY HAS BEEN LINED WITH FORTS,

ANCIENT TOLLBOOTHS.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES,

THIS WAS THE GERMAN TRADE ROUTE TO VENICE AND FLORENCE.

WHEN MEDIEVAL TRADERS REACHED THIS VALLEY,

CHANCES ARE THEY STOPPED, WILLINGLY OR NOT,

AT A CASTLE LIKE THIS.

REIFENSTEIN CASTLE HAS GROWN MORE WELCOMING WITH AGE.

WHILE IT USED TO TAKE A BATTERING RAM

TO GET THESE DOORS OPEN,

NOW ALL IT TAKES IS A FEW EUROS.