photographing, specializing in the polar regions,

專門在極地區域攝影的經歷

began when I was four years old,

是從我四歲時開始

when my family moved from Southern Canada

那時我家從加拿大南部

to Northern Baffin Island, up by Greenland.

搬到北部的巴芬島，毗鄰格陵蘭島

There we lived with the Inuit

在那兒我們與因紐特人住在一起

in the tiny Inuit community of 200 Inuit people,

在僅有200人的小小因紐特人社區中

where [we] were one of three non-Inuit families.

有三戶非因紐特家庭，我們是其中之一

And in this community, we didn't have a television;

在這個社區裡，我們沒有電視

we didn't have computers, obviously, radio.

沒有電腦，當然也沒有無線電

We didn't even have a telephone.

甚至電話也沒有

All of my time was spent outside

我所有的時間都花在戶外

with the Inuit, playing.

和因紐特人一起玩耍

The snow and the ice were my sandbox,

冰雪是我的沙坑

and the Inuit were my teachers.

因紐特人是我的老師

And that's where I became

在那裡，我真正地

truly obsessed with this polar realm.

迷上了這個極地王國

And I knew someday that I was going to do something

我知道，有一天我會做一些事情

that had to do with trying to share news about it

去分享關於這塊土地的新鮮事

and protect it.

以及保護它。

I'd like to share with you, for just two minutes only,

我想花大概兩分鐘的時間

some images, a cross-section of my work,

透過一些圖片，讓各位來瞭解我的工作

to the beautiful music by Brandi Carlile, "Have You Ever."

伴著Brandi Carlile優美的音樂《Have You Ever》

I don't know why National Geographic has done this, they've never done this before,

我不知道國家地理頻道為何這麼做，他們從未這麼做過

but they're allowing me to show you a few images

他們允許我向你們展示

from a coverage that I've just completed that is not published yet.

我剛剛完成但尚未發表的新聞報導裡的照片

National Geographic doesn't do this,

國家地理頻道通常不會這樣做

so I'm very excited to be able to share this with you.

我很高興，能與你們分享這些照片

And what these images are --

那麼這是些什麼樣的照片呢？

you'll see them at the start of the slide show -- there's only about four images --

你會在幻燈片開頭看到它們，大約只有四張照片

but it's of a little bear that lives in the Great Bear Rainforest.

拍的是住在大熊雨林的一隻小熊

It's pure white, but it's not a polar bear.

牠的毛色雖然純白，但牠不是北極熊

It's a spirit bear, or a Kermode bear.

牠是白靈熊或克莫德熊

There are only 200 of these bears left.

現在這種熊只剩下約200隻

They're more rare than the panda bear.

比貓熊還稀有

I sat there on the river for two months without seeing one.

我在河面上待了兩個月沒有看見一隻

I thought, my career's over.

我以為，我的職業生涯完了

I proposed this stupid story to National Geographic.

我向《National Geographic》雜誌提議這個愚蠢的故事

What in the heck was I thinking?

我到底在想什麽啊？

So I had two months to sit there

於是我有兩個月的時間坐在那兒

and figure out different ways of what I was going to do in my next life,

弄清楚我接下來的日子該做點什麽別的事情

after I was a photographer, because they were going to fire me.

因為我是一名攝影師，因為他們將要解雇我

Because National Geographic is a magazine; they remind us all the time:

因為《National Geographic》是一本雜誌，他們始終提醒我們

they publish pictures, not excuses.

他們刊登照片，而非藉口

(Laughter)

（笑）

And after two months of sitting there --

在那兒坐了兩個月之後

one day, thinking that it was all over,

有一天，我想著這一切都完了

this incredible big white male came down,

這隻不可思議的大白公熊下來了

right beside me, three feet away from me,

在我右側，三英尺遠的地方

and he went down and grabbed a fish and went off in the forest and ate it.

牠下到水裡，抓起一條魚，回到森林裡把魚吃了

And then I spent the entire day living my childhood dream

於是我花了一整天過我童年時夢想的生活

of walking around with this bear through the forest.

我跟著這隻熊穿過森林

He went through this old-growth forest

牠穿過這片老熟林

and sat up beside this 400-year-old culturally modified tree and went to sleep.

然後坐在這棵有400年歷史的文化改造樹邊睡著了

And I actually got to sleep within three feet of him,

我真的在離牠三英尺的地方睡著了

just in the forest, and photograph him.

就在森林裡，拍攝牠

So I'm very excited to be able to show you those images

所以我很高興能向你們展示這些照片

and a cross-section of my work that I've done on the polar regions.

以及我在極地所做的工作

Please enjoy.

希望你們喜歡

(Music)

（音樂）

Brandi Carlile: ♫ Have you ever wandered lonely through the woods? ♫

Brandi Carlile: ♫你是否曾獨自遊蕩在森林裡？♫

♫ And everything there feels just as it should ♫

♫一切都是本來的摸樣♫

♫ You're part of the life there ♫

♫你是其中的一份子♫

♫ You're part of something good ♫

♫你是美好事物的一部份

♫ If you've ever wandered lonely through the woods ♫

♫如果你曾獨自遊蕩在森林♫

♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫

♫喔~♫

♫ If you've ever wandered lonely through the woods ♫

♫如果你曾獨自遊蕩在森林裡♫

♫ Have you ever stared into a starry sky? ♫

♫你是否曾仰望星空？♫

♫ Lying on your back, you're asking why ♫

♫仰臥在地，你有許多疑問♫

♫ What's the purpose? ♫

♫生命的目的是什麽？♫

♫ I wonder, who am I? ♫

♫我想知道，我是誰？♫

♫ If you've ever stared into a starry sky ♫

♫如果你曾仰望星空♫

♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫

♫喔~♫

♫ Aah, ah, aah ♫

♫啊~♫

♫ Ah, oh, oh, ah, ah, oh, oh ♫

♫啊~喔~♫

♫ Have you ever stared into a starry sky? ♫

♫你是否曾仰望星空？♫

♫ Have you ever been out walking in the snow? ♫

♫你是否曾在雪地漫步？♫

♫ Tried to get back where you were before ♫

♫嘗試回到你的故鄉♫

♫ You always end up ♫

♫你總是不知道♫

♫ Not knowing where to go ♫

♫該去何處♫

♫ If you've ever been out walking in the snow ♫

♫如果你曾在雪地漫步♫

♫ Ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♫

♫喔~♫

♫ Aah, ah, aah, ah, aah ♫

♫啊~♫

♫ Ah, ah, oh, ah, ah, oh, ah ♫

♫啊~喔~♫

♫ Oh, ah, ah, ah ♫

♫喔~啊~♫

♫ Ah, ah, oh, ah, ah, oh, oh ♫

♫啊~喔~♫

♫ If you'd ever been out walking you would know ♫

♫如果你曾外出漫步，你會明了♫

(Applause)

（鼓掌）

Paul Nicklen: Thank you very much. The show's not over.

Paul Nicklen:非常感謝，演講還沒結束

My clock is ticking. Okay, let's stop.

我的時間不多。好，咱們停一下。

Thank you very much. I appreciate it.

謝謝，我很感激。

We're inundated with news all the time

我們總是被這樣的新聞淹沒

that the sea ice is disappearing

海洋冰層正在消失

and it's at its lowest level.

已經降到最低水平了

And in fact, scientists were originally saying

事實上，科學家們起初是說

sea ice is going to disappear in the next hundred years, then they said 50 years.

海洋冰層將在未來的一百年消失，接著他們說50年

Now they're saying the sea ice in the Arctic,

現在他們說北極的海洋冰層

the summertime extent is going to be gone in the next four to 10 years.

夏季區域的冰層將在未來四到十年內消失

And what does that mean?

這是什麽意思呢？

After a while of reading this in the news, it just becomes news.

在讀了一陣子相關新聞後，這些也僅僅只是新聞而已

You glaze over with it.

你變得對這樣的消息習以為常

And what I'm trying to do with my work is put faces to this.

我正試著透過自己的工作讓人們瞭解這一點

And I want people to understand and get the concept

我希望人們能夠理解並得到一個概念

that, if we lose ice,

如果我們失去海洋冰層

we stand to lose an entire ecosystem.

我們肯定會失去整個生態系統

Projections are that we could lose polar bears; they could become extinct

預估我們可能會失去北極熊，在未來的50到100年

in the next 50 to 100 years.

牠們會絕種

And there's no better, sexier,

再也沒有更好、更讓人動心

more beautiful, charismatic megafauna species

更美又魅力十足的巨型物種

for me to hang my campaign on.

讓我可以繼續探索

Polar bears are amazing hunters.

北極熊是神奇的獵人

This was a bear I sat with for a while on the shores.

這隻熊和我一起在海邊坐了一會兒

There was no ice around.

周圍沒有冰

But this glacier caved into the water and a seal got on it.

但有一塊冰川陷在水中，上面有隻海豹，

And this bear swam out to that seal --

這隻熊游向那隻海豹－－

800 lb. bearded seal --

800磅重的鬍鬚海豹－－

grabbed it, swam back and ate it.

牠抓住海豹，游回來把海豹吃了

And he was so full, he was so happy and so fat eating this seal,

牠那麼滿足，那麼開心，大口地吃著海豹

that, as I approached him --

當我接近牠－－

about 20 feet away -- to get this picture,

約20英尺遠－－拍照時

his only defense was to keep eating more seal.

牠唯一的防衛就是繼續吃海豹

And as he ate, he was so full --

牠吃的時候那麼滿足－－

he probably had about 200 lbs of meat in his belly --

牠的胃裡大概有200磅肉了－－

and as he ate inside one side of his mouth,

牠用嘴的一邊吃的同時

he was regurgitating out the other side of his mouth.

用另一邊反芻

So as long as these bears have any bit of ice they will survive,

這些熊只需要少量的冰層就能存活

but it's the ice that's disappearing.

但冰層正在消失

We're finding more and more dead bears in the Arctic.

我們在北極發現越來越多的死熊

When I worked on polar bears as a biologist 20 years ago,

20年前我作為生物學家研究北極熊時

we never found dead bears.

我們從未發現死熊

And in the last four or five years,

最近四五年

we're finding dead bears popping up all over the place.

我們發現所有地方都有死熊出現

We're seeing them in the Beaufort Sea,

我們在波弗特海看到牠們

floating in the open ocean where the ice has melted out.

浮在冰塊融化殆盡的海面上

I found a couple in Norway last year. We're seeing them on the ice.

去年我在挪威發現一對熊夫妻，他們死在冰上

These bears are already showing signs

這些死熊已經讓我們感到

of the stress of disappearing ice.

冰層消失的壓力

Here's a mother and her two year-old cub

這是一隻母熊和她兩歲大的幼熊

were traveling on a ship a hundred miles offshore in the middle of nowhere,

正在一塊離岸一百哩的浮冰上走動

and they're riding on this big piece of glacier ice,

牠們在這一大塊浮冰上

which is great for them; they're safe at this point.

這對牠們來說太好了，待在那兒很安全

They're not going to die of hypothermia.

牠們不會因為體溫低而死去

They're going to get to land.

牠們會往陸地移動

But unfortunately, 95 percent of the glaciers in the Arctic

不幸的是，北極有95％的冰川

are also receding right now

正在消失融化

to the point that the ice is ending up on land

接近陸地的冰層也幾乎要消失

and not injecting any ice back into the ecosystem.

也沒有任何冰重新回到生態系統中

These ringed seals, these are the "fatsicles" of the Arctic.

這些環斑海豹，他們是北極的“蛋捲冰淇淋”。

These little, fat dumplings,

這些又小又胖的水餃

150-pound bundles of blubber

有150磅的鯨脂

are the mainstay of the polar bear.

是北極熊的主要食物

And they're not like the harbor seals that you have here.

他們不像這裡的麻斑海豹

These ringed seals also live out their entire life cycle

這些環斑海豹的整個生命週期

associated and connected to sea ice.

都跟海洋冰層息息相關

They give birth inside the ice,

他們在冰裡出生

and they feed on the Arctic cod that live under the ice.

以生活在冰下的北極鱈魚為食

And here's a picture of sick ice.

這是一張冰的照片

This is a piece of multi-year ice that's 12 years old.

這是一塊12年的多年冰

And what scientists didn't predict is that, as this ice melts,

科學家們沒有預料到，當冰塊融化時

these big pockets of black water are forming

同時也形成了大量污水

and they're grabbing the sun's energy

汙水會吸收太陽能

and accelerating the melting process.

然後加速冰層融化

And here we are diving in the Beaufort Sea.

這裡我們潛入波弗特海

The visibility's 600 ft.; we're on our safety lines;

能見度為600英尺；我們在安全繩索上

the ice is moving all over the place.

冰塊在我們周圍移動

I wish I could spend half an hour telling you

我希望可以花一個半小時來告訴你

about how we almost died on this dive.

我們是如何差點死於潛水的

But what's important in this picture is that you have a piece of multi-year ice,

但這張照片的重點是一塊多年冰

that big chunk of ice up in the corner.

上面角落裡那一大塊冰

In that one single piece of ice,

在這樣一塊的冰裡

you have 300 species of microorganisms.

包含300種微生物

And in the spring, when the sun returns to the ice,

春天時，當太陽照耀冰塊時

it forms the phytoplankton, grows under that ice,

浮游植物聚集在此，在冰塊底部生長

and then you get bigger sheets of seaweed,

會長成一大片海草

and then you get the zoo plankton feeding on all that life.

然後你會看到一個以這片海草為生的動物樂園

So really what the ice does

那麼冰層實際上

is it acts like a garden.

就像一座花園

It acts like the soil in a garden. It's an inverted garden.

像是花園裡的土壤，這是一座倒立的花園

Losing that ice is like losing the soil in a garden.

失去冰，就像失去了花園裡的土壤

Here's me in my office.

這是我在我的辦公室

I hope you appreciate yours.

希望你們珍惜自己的辦公室

This is after an hour under the ice.

這是在冰下待了一個小時之後

I can't feel my lips; my face is frozen;

我的嘴唇失去知覺，臉都凍僵了

I can't feel my hands; I can't feel my feet.

我的手和腳也沒有感覺

And I've come up, and all I wanted to do was get out of the water.

我已經上來了，我只想離開冰冷的水

After an hour in these conditions,

這種狀況持續一小時後

it's so extreme that, when I go down,

我已經凍僵，在水下

almost every dive I vomit into my regulator

幾乎每次潛水，我都會把調節器吐出來

because my body can't deal with the stress of the cold on my head.

因為我的身體無法承受頭部冰冷的壓力

And so I'm just so happy that the dive is over.

所以我好高興潛水終於結束了

I get to hand my camera to my assistant,

我把照相機遞給助理

and I'm looking up at him, and I'm going, "Woo. Woo. Woo."

我抬頭看著他，我說：「呼，呼，呼。」

Which means, "Take my camera."

意思是，「拿著照相機。」

And he thinks I'm saying, "Take my picture."

他以為我在說：「給我照張相。」

So we had this little communication breakdown.

於是我們有了這個小小的溝通障礙

(Laughter)

（笑）

But it's worth it.

但這一切很值得

I'm going to show you pictures of beluga whales, bowhead whales,

我會給你們看白鯨，北極露脊鯨

and narwhals, and polar bears, and leopard seals today,

獨角鯨、北極熊和豹斑海豹

but this picture right here means more to me than any other I've ever made.

但這些照片對我的意義比對其他看過照片的人更大

I dropped down in this ice hole, just through that hole that you just saw,

我跳進冰窟隆，就是剛才你們看到的那個洞

and I looked up under the underside of the ice,

我仰視冰層的底部

and I was dizzy; I thought I had vertigo.

我暈眩了，以為自己出現幻覺

I got very nervous -- no rope, no safety line,

我非常緊張－－沒有粗繩，沒有安全繩索

the whole world is moving around me --

整個世界在我周圍移動－－

and I thought, "I'm in trouble."

我想：「有麻煩了。」

But what happened is that the entire underside

但是整個水下

was full of these billions of amphipods and copepods

充滿了成千上萬端足目動物和橈足類

moving around and feeding on the underside of the ice,

四處游動，在冰層底部覓食

giving birth and living out their entire life cycle.

繁殖，經歷他們整個的生命週期

This is the foundation of the whole food chain in the Arctic, right here.

北極圈完整的食物鏈的基礎，就在這兒

And when you have low productivity in this, in ice,

當冰層的生命力減弱時

the productivity in copepods go down.

橈足類動物的生命力也在減弱

This is a bowhead whale.

這是北極露脊鯨

Supposedly, science is stating

按照推測，科學研究說明

that it could be the oldest living animal on earth right now.

牠是地球上迄今為止最長壽的動物

This very whale right here could be over 250 years old.

這隻貨真價實的鯨已經超過250歲了

This whale could have been born

牠大概出生在

around the start of the Industrial Revolution.

工業革命初期

It could have survived 150 years of whaling.

牠自150年以來的捕鯨活動中幸存下來

And now its biggest threat is the disappearance of ice in the North

現在牠最大的威脅就是北部冰層的消失

because of the lives that we're leading in the South.

原因是我們在南方所造就的生活方式

Narwhals, these majestic narwhals

獨角鯨，這些雄偉的獨角鯨

with their eight-foot long ivory tusks, don't have to be here;

牠們有八英尺長的乳白色獠牙，牠們不一定要待在這兒

they could be out on the open water.

牠們可以去開闊的海域

But they're forcing themselves to come up in these tiny little ice holes

但是牠們強迫自己待在這些小小的冰窟隆裡

where they can breathe, catch a breath,