Hi, I'm Tom.

嗨，我是湯姆

I'm traveling through one of the most colorful and vibrant countries in the world,

我在世界上最多彩多姿、最有活力的其中一個國家旅遊

and with the help of local knowledge, I'll be trying to find out what makes this place so special.

有了當地人的協助，我會試著找出讓這個地方如此特別的原因

Join me on a journey through India.

加入我踏上旅程、探索印度

Our first stop is Mumbai.

我們的第一站在孟買

Located on the west coast of the country, it's home to 21 million people.

它位在國家的西海岸，人口有 2100 萬

Frantic but functional, this is India's economic powerhouse and the home of Bollywood.

狂亂但卻效能十足，這裡是印度的經濟重心，也是寶萊塢的所在

From luxury high rises to some of Asia's biggest slums, everyone here lives in the fast lane.

有奢華的高樓大廈，也有亞洲最大的貧民窟，這裡的每個人都過著刺激的生活

This is one of the most densely-populated cities in the world.

這是世界上其中一個人口最密集的城市

Getting around on the roads can be pretty slow, so we're going to take the train.

在街道走很緩慢，所以我們要去搭火車

This looks pretty busy.

這看起來真的很繁忙

Right. On we go.

好啦。我們上車了

Not too bad.

不算太糟

Mumbai's suburban railway is fast but crowded,

孟買的郊區火車很快但是很擁擠

with 11 million people using the city's public transport every day.

每天都有 1100 萬人次在使用城市的公共交通系統

The elbow-to-elbow experience, however, may be coming to an end.

這種摩肩接踵的體驗有一天倒是有可能不再

A new Mumbai metro network more than 100 miles long is being built.

全長超過 100 哩 (約 161 公里) 的孟買新鐵路系統正在搭建

Its aim is to boost the city's rail capacity and reduce traffic congestion.

目標是提高城市的鐵路承載量，並且減少交通堵塞

For your wife?

給你老婆的？

Lovely roses.

美麗的玫瑰

Can I smell?

我可以聞聞嗎？

Perfect, smells fresh.

完美，聞起來好新鮮

Well, that wasn't too bad, no worse than the Central line in London,

其實沒有太糟嘛，並不比倫敦的中心線路糟糕

and now we're in downtown Mumbai ready to explore the rest of the city.

現在我們在孟買市區，準備好探索城市的其他區域了

To help me do that and understand where this city gets its energy from,

為了好好認識這座城市的生命力

I'm meeting up with a fellow journalist.

我要和一些記者同事見面

Kevin?

凱文？

Hi, how are you?

嗨，你好嗎？

Hi, all good.

嗨，很好

Nice to meet you.

很高興認識你

Welcome to Mumbai.

歡迎來到孟買

Thank you very much.

非常謝謝你

Kevin Lee is a reporter for CNBC TV18 and has lived and worked in the city for several years.

李凱文是 CNBC TV18 的記者，他已經在這座城市工作、居住很多年了

Have you gotten a chance to look around the city a little bit?

你有機會先看看城市了嗎？

Yeah, we came in on the train.

嗯，我們搭火車來的

Did you get pushed around a little bit?

你有沒有被擠來擠去？

A little bit, a little bit.

一些些啦，一些些

It's part of the charm of the city.

那是這座城市的其中一個魅力

Have you eaten anything? Do you want to get a bite?

你吃了嗎？要不要去吃個什麼？

No, but I could eat.

好啊，我吃得下

Let's get you some Bombay delicacies.

我們來給你買一些孟買美食

Mumbai's reputation for street food is legendary, but its famous fare was actually born out of necessity.

孟買的街頭小吃是出了名的傳奇，但它最有名的一種其實是為了需求才產生

The city's early prosperity came from its textile mills, and workers needed quick and cheap food on the go.

這座城市最初的人口多來自紡織廠，工人們需要可以立馬帶走的快速又便宜的食物

The mills may have faded into the past, but the cheap eats have not.

紡織廠或許已步入歷史，但是便宜的食物並沒有

And in this 24-hour megacity, the streets are still buzzing with thousands of hawkers dishing out their specialties late into the night.

在這個 24 小時容納著上百萬人的城市中，街頭到了深夜依然人聲吵雜，充滿了街頭小販推出深夜特色菜的叫賣

Khau Galli literally translates, the street of food.

Khau Galli 直翻就是「街頭食物」

So you have these all over Bombay, but it's not very fancy food.

在孟買街頭到處都是這些小吃，很樸實的一些食物

It's just functional food that you can get in 10, 15 minutes, you can have a whole meal.

就只是 10、15 分鐘可以馬上到手的簡單食物，這樣就解決一餐

We're going to try some chaat first. Chaat is a famous Bombay thing. I don't know exactly how to define it.

我們先去試一些 chaat。chaat 是很有名的孟買食物。我不確定它確切要怎麼形容

It's just a mixture of a lot of flavors, savory, sweet, spicy, etc, just thrown together.

它就是混合了很多種味道，很開胃呀、甜的呀、辣的呀，之類的全部混在一起

How spicy are we talking?

辣是有多辣！？

Oh, this isn't spicy. You don't have to worry that much.

噢，這一個不辣。你不用那麼擔心

Okay, we'll start low.

好，我們起步別太大

We'll start you off easy, yeah?

我讓你們先從簡單的開始

And get a bit of everything in one bite.

一口之中所有東西都要來一點

Okay, that's quite a big mouthful…

好，這蠻大口的 ...

Yeah, yeah. You can do it.

是啊。你行的

There's just a lot going on. Right?

有很多味道吧。是不是？

A lot.

很多

You can't isolate one flavor.

你沒辦法獨立出一個味道

There's loads of different textures as well.

也有各種的口感

He's got a tiny little kitchen back there, like this tiny stall and he manages to create

他在後面有間小廚房，像這樣一個小攤子，然後他就能夠創造出

something that even looks pretty as well as tastes good.

一些看起來和吃起來一樣棒的東西

So now we're going to try something called pav bhaji, which is another thing that's famous in Bombay.

現在我們來試試叫做 pav bhaji 的東西，那也是另一個在孟買很有名的小吃

This one involves a fair bit of cooking, unlike the chaat.

和 chaat 不太一樣，這個需要煮一下

So it's this gravy that's smeared with potatoes, tomatoes and a little bit of capsicum, a little bit of onion.

所以它就是混合了馬鈴薯、番茄、一些甜椒和一些洋蔥的肉汁

It's all just mashed together and he serves it with a lot of butter, and pav which is basically bread.

全部東西就是搗在一起，然後配上非常多奶油，pav 基本上就是麵包

Absolutely drenched in butter.

完全浸滿了奶油

Yeah, I wasn't exaggerating.

是啊，我沒在誇飾

It's just a lot of butter.

就是非常多奶油

He's used half a kilo!

他用了半公斤吧！

Good work.

做得好

Really good.

真的很好吃

Kevin, thank you very much for showing me your Mumbai.

凱文，非常謝謝你帶我看看你的孟買

I hope your stomach is fine tomorrow morning.

我希望你的胃明早還行

Well if it's not, I blame you.

嗯要是出了問題，我就怪你

Thanks, man. Cheers.

謝了老兄。乾杯

Refueled, I'm heading to my next stop in the heart of Mumbai.

吃飽喝足、有精神後，我去到我的下一站，孟買的中心

But with its limited public transport, we're taking the roads and this is a city famous for its traffic.

但因為公共交通有限，我們只能走街道，而這座城市可是以它的交通聞名的

You may not realize it, but there is actually traffic lights at this intersection.

你或許沒注意到，但這個十字路口其實是有交通號誌的

The guys who installed it must have been laughing because there are no rules.

裝了它的人肯定在笑，因為根本毫無秩序可言

Slightly less noisy but no less busy is Dharavi.

比較沒那麼吵，但也沒有比較不繁忙的，就是達拉維

Home to one million people, this is one of the world's largest slums

這裡居住了一百萬的人，是世界上其中一個最大的貧民窟

and like the rest of the city, it's full of energy and industry.

而就像城市的其他區域，這個地方也充滿了活力和各種產業

I've hired the help of Naynish Salvi, a tour guide attached to the NGO Reality Gives.

我請到了耐伊許．薩維的幫忙，一個和非政府組織 Reality Gives 有關的導遊

The money from tours of the slums is used to support families and help run educational programs for people that didn't finish school,

貧民窟導覽獲得的收益會用來支持教育計劃，幫那些助教育中斷的人

to increase their chances of finding employment.

增加他們找到工作的機會

The word slum itself surrounds with negativity.

貧民窟這個字讓人聯想到負面觀感

People always try to relate it with favelas and basically those kinds of things.

人們總是將它和 favela (巴西貧民窟) 聯想在一塊，基本上就是那類事情

But when they come over here, when they see the kind of things, it's something different to what they expect.

但是當他們來到這裡，當他們看到各類的事情，卻是和他們預期的不一樣

Because there are thriving businesses in Dharavi slum, that's right?

因為在達拉維貧民窟有很蓬勃的企業發展，是嗎？

Roughly all in total, Dharavi has nearly 10,000 different businesses.

大略估計，達拉維總共有近一萬種不同的企業

Wow.

哇

And if we tell you, the annual amount of revenue generated from this slum,

然後如果我再告訴你，這座貧民窟的年產值收入總共約有

only from businesses, is roughly $665 million a year.

單單透過企業哦，一年約有 6 億 6500 萬美金

$665 million? That's amazing.

6 億 6500 萬美金？太驚人了

That money comes from industries like pottery production, which began in Dharavi in the 1840s.

這些錢來自像是陶藝商品的企業，在達拉維 1840 年代就開始發展

The slum is also home to a thriving recycling industry, which the city has become increasingly

貧民窟內同樣有蓬勃發展的回收企業，城市越來越仰賴他們

dependent upon to manage waste, particularly plastic.

處理廢料，尤其是塑膠類

Everyday people roughly recycle between 13 and 14 tons of plastic a day.

每一天人們約會回收 13 或 14 噸的塑膠

Hard work?

很累的工作嗎？

Yeah, very hard work sir. 15 hours work here.

是的，非常累，一天在這裡工作 15 小時

Leather production, however, is what Dharavi's most recognized for,

然而達拉維最有名的其實是皮革產業

and it all started here at the city's first ever leather factory.

那全都源自於這裡，城市裡第一間皮革工廠

As well as developing its own brand, the factory also supplies leather to fashion houses around the world,

他們不單有自己的品牌，工廠也會提供皮革至世界各地的時尚企業

ensuring that Mumbai maintains its status as the fashion epicenter of India.

也確保了孟買維持印度時尚中心的地位

The owner, he was the person who introduced leather production to the city.

老闆就是將皮革商品引進孟買的人

Basically, he started working when he was 12 years old.

他基本上是從 12 歲就開始工作了

Because sometimes the skins are thinner, some of them are thicker, they need to be surfaced.

有時候皮因為比較薄或是比較厚，會需要先被磨平

Okay, so it's to a level?

好的，所以就像是把它用平？

And all the surfacing makes the skins softer.

磨平能夠使皮革變得更軟

There's a lot of guys here. I mean you've got six guys sorting...

這裡有很多人。有六個人在分類 ...

They need to also be separated by the size as well, the size and the thickness as well.

它們也要依據尺寸來分類，尺寸和厚度都是分類依據

They need to check what skins need to be shaved off or not.

他們要檢查哪些皮革要被削掉或是不用

Even just walking down one of the side streets, you wouldn't imagine that

就算是走過任何一條街，也不會想到

there's 20 guys in here working hour after hour producing some of these leathers.

有 20 個人在這裡日以繼夜地生產這些皮革

It's kind of amazing that it's all tucked away in these tiny little nooks and crannies of the slums.

很驚人的是這些就發生在貧民窟這樣一個小小的一角

When they say, "I've been inside Dharavi," it means they've actually passed within, from the street.

當人們說，「我到過達拉維。」那代表他們只是走過街道

They haven't seen what you are able to see today. They just think, "Oh I've seen Dharavi, it's a slum, that's it."

他們沒有看到你今天能看見的。他們只會想，「噢我到過達拉維，它就是個貧民窟，就這樣。」

But to break that barrier, to make them realize what actually they're missing

但是為了要突破這個障礙，為了讓他們了解到他們錯過了什麼

is the reason why we are here for.

我們才會在這裡

This city doesn't seem to stop, so neither am I. I've got one final visit across town before the day ends.

這座城市看似永不停歇，所以我也不例外。在一天結束前，我在城市另一頭還有最後一站

A bit of retail therapy, but unlike I've ever experienced before.

我要來採購一番，但這不像是我過去體驗過的

So I've come down to Crawford Market, possibly one of the craziest places I've ever been

我來到了克勞福德市場，或許是我到過最瘋狂的其中一個地方

but hopefully, we'll find a little bargain, something to take home so that we have a little memento from our trip.

不過希望我們能找到一些划算的東西，一些我們可以帶回去紀念的

Crawford Market is the largest and most famous in Mumbai.

克勞福德市場是孟買最大、最有名的市場

It began as a fruit and vegetable wholesale market way back in 1869,

它最一開始在 1869 年是蔬果批發市場

and many of the city's big restaurants still come here to source their food.

城市中許多大餐廳至今還是來這裡採買他們的食材

But if you're looking for clothes and souvenirs, then the surrounding streets is where you'll find them.

不過如果你在找的是衣服和紀念品，那就要去看看周遭的幾條街

Love it.

我喜歡

Could I give you ₹100 for this?

算我 100 盧比 (約 100 塊台幣) 好嗎？

No ₹100, ₹250 best price, only price.

100 不行，250 就是最好的價格了，不二價

Okay.

好吧

Not sure about that, a little bit creepy.

不確定要不要買這個，有點恐怖

I'm buying a present for my daughter. It's quite big. I don't think I can fit it in my suitcase.

我在給我女兒買禮物。那蠻大的。我想它放不進我的行李箱

Oh, I quite like that. How much is that?

噢，我喜歡那個。哪一個多少錢？

₹100 only.

只要 100 盧比

100?

100 ？

Do you think it will fit me?

你覺得適合我嗎？

Yeah, perfect size.

行啊，尺寸完美

Cheers guys, thank you.

謝啦夥伴

Supposed to buy something for other people, but ended up buying something for myself.

本來打算給別人買些什麼，結果變成買給我自己

About one-year-old girl.

差不多一歲的女孩

Girl, girl, what do you want? Shoes?

女孩，女孩啊，你想要什麼？鞋子？

Something traditional Indian, maybe a small sari or something?

一些印度傳統的東西，或許是小件沙麗或是個什麼？

Sweet.

好誒

I don't think my wife will let my daughter wear that, but I think it's quite fun.

我不認為我老婆會讓我女兒穿這個，不過我想應該蠻好玩的

What do you think? How much for?

你覺得如何？多少錢？

₹175.

175 盧比 (約台幣 73)

How many pieces do you want?

你要多少件？

I only buy one, I only have one child.

我只要一件，我只有一個小孩

Okay, take it.

好啊，拿去吧

I haven't actually said yes that I'm going to buy it, but he's sort of given it to me.

我其實還沒有說我要買，不過他好像要給我了

₹175?

175 盧比？

₹175.

175

What about ₹150?

算 150 如何？

Okay then.

好吧行

Yeah, or what about ₹100?

行啊，那算 100 呢？

Just terrible at haggling.

我很不會殺價

Cheers boss, thank you.

謝啦老闆，謝謝

Thank you, welcome.

謝謝，不客氣

I want to buy a scarf.

我想買一條圍巾

Come, come, please sir.

來吧，來吧，先生請坐

Forcing me to sit.

她要我坐下

What about this one here?

這裡這個如何？

Show me how long two meters is.

給我看兩公尺是怎樣

Yeah, yeah.

好的，好

Maybe I should have just bought a t-shirt.

或許我應該買件 T 恤就好

Thank you very much.

非常謝謝你

Welcome, another time.

歡迎再來

Cheers, thank you.

謝謝你

Lovely. It's lovely. No, it's okay.

太棒了，很棒。不，這就行了

If I had to describe my overall impressions of Mumbai, I'd say it's fast-paced and busy.

如果要我形容我對孟買的整體印象，我會說它步調很快，而且很忙碌

That can be overwhelming at first, but getting to meet people who live and work here

一開始或許令人難以招架，但是見到在這裡居住、工作的人們

has helped me understand that they all thrive off that energy - and it's infectious.

幫助了我了解到他們就是從這種活力中汲取能量 —— 那是有感染性的

All the shopping's now done, and I think I've experienced a fair bit of Mumbai, onto the next stop.

東西都買好了，我想我也體驗體驗到足夠的孟買了，該是前往下一站的時候

Hi everyone, thanks for joining us on our journey through India.

嗨各位，謝謝你們加入我們漫遊印度的旅程

To catch our next stop, make sure you click here.

想要搭上我們下一趟旅程，記得點這裡

And do let us know your favorite travel destinations in the comments below and don't forget to subscribe.

然後留言告訴你最喜歡的旅遊地是哪裡，也別忘了訂閱哦