-Hi. I'm Rick Steves,

back with more of the best of Europe.

This time, we're gettin' to know the locals,

and that includes the seagulls.

We're exploring the islands of Scotland.

Thanks for joining us.

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Scotland's islands may be on the distant fringes of Scotland,

but those who venture here are richly rewarded.

As if fortified by the powerful sea,

these fabled isles are protectors of tradition --

each offering dramatic landscapes,

a rich heritage, and a warm welcome.

While Scotland has countless islands,

we'll visit what I consider the most rewarding:

Iona, with its tranquility and ancient Christian heritage;

Skye, with its remote and rugged landscapes;

and Orkney, with its prehistoric wonders

and fascinating World War II history.

The United Kingdom includes England, Wales,

Northern Ireland, and Scotland.

Scotland is ringed on the west by the Hebrides Islands.

We'll venture from Oban to Iona and Staffa;

then, Skye;

and then, in the far north,

sail to the Orkney Islands.

Oban's been the unofficial capital of Scotland's West Coast

ever since the train arrived back in 1880.

The hub of the local ferry system,

this low-key resort is nicknamed "the Gateway to the isles."

Oban's harborfront is lined with Victorian facades

recalling the early arrival of tourists

just over a century ago.

Before then, its economy was dominated by fishing.

Even today, a tiny fleet stays busy.

When the rain clears, sun-starved Scots

enjoy their esplanade and the beach.

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The townscape is dominated by its busy ferry port.

The port has long been a lifeline

to the Hebrides Islands.

Today, it's a popular springboard

for island adventurers.

The best day out from Oban is the three-island tour

and we've caught the early ferry on our way

to Mull, Iona, and Staffa.

Right away, we're immersed in grand island views.

Be on deck to make the most of the experience.

After an hour, you approach the isle of Mull.

Everything is coordinated and a bus is standing by,

ready to take us across the island.

Enjoying the drive, you're struck

by the pristine scenery, the sparse population,

and how Mull feels hardly touched by civilization.

On the far west of Mull,

another ferry makes the short crossing to the isle of Iona.

Iona is tiny, but with a big history.

It's just one village, 3 miles long,

150 people, almost no cars.

[ Baaing ]

It's famous as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland.

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The year was 563.

A nobleman, who became Saint Columba,

fought a battle over in Ireland.

He won, but was so sickened by the bloodshed

that he left his homeland, vowing never to return.

According to legend, this was the first piece of land

he came to out of sight from Ireland.

He stopped here and built a church,

which eventually became this abbey.

Iona became a center of Celtic Christianity.

[ Tender tune plays ] From here, Saint Columba's monks

spread the gospel throughout Scotland.

This remote, little island was a center of art and learning

back when most of Europe was almost illiterate,

mired in relative darkness.

The exquisitely illustrated Book of Kells --

this is a copy on display in Dublin --

is perhaps the finest piece of art

from Europe's early Middle Ages.

Monks wrote it here, on Iona, in the 8th century.

Over the next centuries,

Columba's monastic community grew

in religious importance.

The abbey became the burial place for chiefs and kings.

According to legend, dozens of ancient kings,

Scottish, Irish, and even Scandinavian, rest here.

[ Outro plays ] [ Gulls squawking ]

After many generations, in about the year 800,

Viking raiders were terrorizing coastal communities

all across western Europe, including Iona.

After one terrible massacre,

68 monks were killed right here on this beach.

The survivors packed up their treasures,

including the precious Book of Kells,

and returned to Ireland.

Today, a thoughtful calm

pervades Scotland's holiest of islands.

After centuries of pillaging,

little remains of the original abbey,

but if you're interested in tranquility

and a bit of meditative peace,

Iona is a fine place for a break from your busy itinerary.

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Next, a fastboat takes us to our third island of the day,

Staffa -- famous for its bird life

and striking volcanic rock formations.

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Our captain gives us a dramatic sneak preview

of the fabled Fingal's Cave.

He then drops us off for time to explore.

Walking across the uninhabited island,

we head for the hidden nests of a colony of Atlantic puffins.

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We wait patiently and quietly, observing the hardworking adults

bringing home a fishy breakfast for their chicks.

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Hiking along the base of the cliffs,

using Staffa's distinctive six-sided basalt columns

as stepping stones, we reach Fingal's Cave.

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Peering into the geological darkness,

so surrounded by nature, I savor the moment.

Enjoying the interplay of the sea and the rocks,

I think of the generations of romantics

who've stood right here and been inspired.

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[ Jaunty tune plays ] After enjoying

our three-island day, we're driving farther north.

The drive's scenic, the roads are good,

and the traffic's light.

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Ferries connect these islands

with Scottish government-subsidized fares,

keeping island-hopping inexpensive.

Next up, the rugged Isle of Skye.

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Offering some of Scotland's best scenery,

the Isle of Skye is understandably popular.

Narrow, twisty roads wind around Skye,

in the shadows of craggy, bald mountains,

and the coastline is ruffled with peninsulas;

and sea lochs, or saltwater inlets.

Skye, while Scotland's second-biggest island,

about a two-hour drive from south to north,

has only 13,000 residents.

And it's been that way since the Highland Clearances

[ Baaing ] back in the 1800s.

That's when wealthy landlords decided sheep

were better for their bottom line than people.

Landless peasants were driven out and, to this day,

the island's population is half what it used to be.

While plenty of tour buses cover Skye,

it's a great place to have your own wheels.

The island is dotted with scenic roadside attractions.

The Sligachan Bridge offers a classic Skye view

and a good reminder to stop the car and get out.

The Cuillin mountains tower high above

and above the bridge looms the cone-shaped Glamaig Hill.

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Around here, people really know how to have fun with nature.

As a matter of fact, every summer, there's a race,

from the bridge to the top of that mountain and back.

Last year's winner? 44 minutes.

[ Flute plays haunting tune ] If you know where to look,

the island is strewn with the scant remains

of past civilizations.

Just a short hike from a handy parking lot

is Skye's best-preserved Iron Age fort:

Dun Beag.

To get the most out of our Isle of Skye road trip,

I'm joined by my friend and fellow tour guide

Colin Mairs.

Exploring this prehistoric stone tower

connects us with Skye's distant past.

Judging from these stones,

the tower once stood much taller.

I love scrambling through ruined castles

and this one is particularly evocative.

-Well, people have been living on the Isle of Skye

for thousands of years and this place, if you imagine,

it probably had a timber frame inside, three stories high.

They would get in here under times of attack.

They could gather in here, the community,

men, women, children, and their domesticated animals,

and we think this was built around about 2,000 years ago.

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-Skye's best home base is the town of Portree,

nestled deep in its protective harbor.

Portree, with its narrow streets

and humble shops, restaurants, and hotels,

is the island's largest town and tourism center.

As Skye gets more and more popular,

Portree gets jammed with visitors in the summer.

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The harborside, once busy with its historic kelp-gathering

and herring-fishing economy, like the rest of the town,

is now dedicated to tourism.

Fish and chips is a standby for a cheap lunch.

Grab a spot and enjoy the view.

But be on guard.

Those seagulls are hungry, too.

-[Squawk] -Hey!

Well, the gulls are well-fed and, now, it's our turn.

Time for a pub lunch.

We're here in July

and every restaurant in town is busy with tourists,

many escaping the heat of southern Europe

for the cool of the north.

Places that take pride in their food

have raised pub grub to new levels:

creative dishes, fresh vegetables, and salads.

And, anywhere in Britain, I go for the local beer.

Here on the island, it's Skye Gold.

[ Outro plays ]

[ Mid-tempo tune plays ]

The highlight of our Isle of Skye visit

is driving around the scenic Trotternish Peninsula.

The coast is lined with jaw-dropping cliffs

plunging into the sea.

This one's nicknamed Kilt Rock

because its volcanic lava columns

look like pleats in a Scottish kilt.

A steep climb inland leads to a trailhead

at the summit of the Trotternish Ridge.

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Man, we're lucky to have a place to park.

-Right.

-Skye is well-discovered, these days,

but you can still get away from the crowds.

Make a point to get out of the car and take a hike.

[ Poignant tune sweeps ]

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From here, we enjoy the easy walk

across a dramatic escarpment called the Quiraing.

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Hikers are richly rewarded, enjoying unforgettable views

of the Isle of Skye and the distant mainland.

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In addition to the stunning scenery,

there's history and heritage in the land.

We stopped at a peat bog that tells a story.

Until a generation ago, bogs like these,

where organic matter is slowly working its way

to becoming coal, were harvested to heat homes.

So this is a peat spade?

-Yeah, so that's just for cutting the peats.

And it's a task like chopping firewood.

It's a matter of survival, really.

Peat was really important

for people historically, on the Isle of Skye.

So you would cut the peat from a bog, like this.

Then, you'd dry it out, first, put it on the fire,

and that lets off a sweet, smoky smell.

It's used through the harsh winter, heats the home,

provides a fuel source for cooking.

It's used widely in the whiskey industry