Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time.

衝浪就是同時瞬間加速與滑行。

Like walking on water, like flying.

像在水上走路，又像飛行。

I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.

我覺得衝浪就是與大自然的現象合而為一。

[Small thing, big idea.]

[小東西，大點子。]

[Made possible with the support of FutureLight and The North Face.]

[由 FutureLight 與 The North Face 贊助播出。]

The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking.

衝浪板需要很多符合人體工學的設計構想。

How do I stand on it?

我該怎麼站上去？

How do I not slip off?

我要怎麼站才不會滑掉？

But at the same time, it really has to work in that fluid environment.

但同時，它得在流動的環境中發揮功效。

It's really considered for the rider in some areas and for water and physics in others.

它的細節是為衝浪者而設計的，而其他設計細節則考量水流與物理因素。

A surfboard is made out of a core element which tends to be foam, which makes the board float, and the skin of the board is some kind of resin, epoxy, sometimes fiberglass.

衝浪板的主要材料通常是讓板子有浮力的泡棉，而表皮由某種樹脂、環氧樹脂或玻璃纖維組成。

There often is also a stringer, a wood piece down the middle, which makes it stronger.

中間通常會有龍骨，一根在中間的木頭，讓整體結構更穩固。

The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front.

板弧是在板頭彎曲的弧度。

That is important because that determines what kind of wave you will be able to take, how steep the wave is.

這個結構很重要，因為它決定了板子適合的浪型，能承受多陡的浪。

The tail affects performance.

板尾決定表現。

Different tails will make the board react differently, so it's a lot about personal preference.

不同的板尾在浪上的表現不同，所以這取決於個人偏好。

Our understanding of surfing comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii.

我們對衝浪的理解源於大溪地人在西元 1200 年將其引入夏威夷。

So when James Cook arrived around 1780, he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water, children, women, men, surfing naked.

所以當 James Cook 在大約 1780 年來到夏威夷時，他被水中數以百計裸體衝浪的小孩、女人或男人給迷住了。

Calvinist missionaries arrive and they're scandalized by it.

加爾文主義的傳教士到達此地之後對此相當震驚。

It becomes an illegal activity.

衝浪因此成為非法的活動。

It becomes counterculture.

它成為一種反主流文化。

The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku.

現代衝浪之父是一位叫做 Duke Kahanamoku 的夏威夷人。

He is an extraordinary swimmer, wins gold at the Olympics in 1912.

他是一位傑出的游泳選手，曾在 1912 年的奧運獲得金牌。

Goes around the world to show his swimming but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing.

他周遊世界展示自己的泳技之餘也帶著衝浪板，並演示衝浪。

Imagine, people had never seen surfing before.

試想，人們從來沒有看過衝浪活動。

Suddenly, some person from a faraway place is standing on water, riding on water.

突然，你看到一個遠方來的人站在水面上並乘著浪。

He comes back to Hawaii, and they start to make more boards.

他回到夏威夷，然後他們開始打造更多的衝浪板。

Pre-Second World War, you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards.

二次大戰以前，衝浪板仍是又大又重的木板。

Post-Second World War, new materials and new technologies become available, and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper, but it continues to be a custom object, something that is made specifically for a person or for a certain spot.

二次大戰之後，出現了新的材料和技術，而這讓板身更輕、更好上手也更便宜，但它仍是一種客製化的物品，為某人或某個地點所製。

It's a very symbiotic relationship between surfer and shaper.

衝浪人與塑型者擁有共生的關係。

There's so many different criteria that affect the physics of how that surfboard is moving in water.

有太多不同的標準會影響衝浪板在水中運動的物理特性。

A longboard is typically used on smaller waves.

長板通常用來衝小一點的浪。

The riding has a lot of style.

衝浪也有很多不同風格。

You can walk the board, put your toes over it, do a hang ten.

你可以走板、把腳趾掛在板頭、做個hang ten (雙腳緊貼衝浪板)。

A shortboard will be faster.

短版比較有速度感。

They're harder to ride, they sink under the body.

它們比較難駕馭，板身也會沉在水裡。

Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors, and really, how I want to put myself in the water.

衝浪板的設計是在各種物理因素與個人在水中的習慣的交集。

It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity.

它是一種表現方式，也可以是一種物理運動。

The draw may be because water is so elusive.

吸引人的地方或許是水難以捉摸的特性。

You can't fight it, you can't change it.

你無法反抗它也無法改變它。

The best I can do is recognize what it does.

我能做的就是去理解水性。

The surf may be big and getting bigger and surging while you're in the water.

當你在水中時，浪可能本身就很大，後來變更大或突然湧現。

The elements are changing.

一切元素都持續在改變。

The wind is coming up.

起風了。

You have to be in symbiosis with the environment.

你必須與環境共生。

You need to look and feel for everything that's happening around you.

你必須觀察和感受身邊發生的一切。

And yet, it's so short.

然後，時間很短暫。

5, 8, 15 seconds.

5、8、15 秒。

It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.

一切轉瞬即逝，但你還是忍不住回到水裡。