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Welcome to Tokushima!
This is the Awaodori, the main event of the summer
here in Japan.
One of the biggest dance festival in all of the world.
In Rio de Janeiro there’s the Carnival
and in Japan, there’s this!
The BIGGEST STREET PARTY in JAPAN!
The airport is named after it.
The Awaodori or Awa Dance greets disembarking passengers
right at the exit.
Tokushima takes a lot of pride in their traditional dance festival.
So when Tokyoites originally from Tokushima
arrive for the summer break,
they happily join in.
You can’t stand still — so dance!
Where is Tokushima?
Right down there on Shikoku’s east coast.
One of four prefectures on this island.
Before we look at Tokushima city,
let’s look north to Naruto
famous for this bridge
and Naruto Whirlpools
You can walk under the bridge and
observe some of the world’s deepest whirlpools.
The Otsuka Museum
houses full sized reproductions
of major works of art
and you can even touch them all.
It’s made from ceramics.
A full sized Sistine Chapel!
The Awa Puppet Theatre is a trip back in time.
Now back to Tokushima City Center
where the Awaodori will be taking place.
The city takes it dancing seriously.
On bridges.
Street signs.
Mail boxes.
It’s even on anime form on posters!
There! On the right!
Try Tokushima Ramen,
pork bone and soy broth
with a raw egg.
Power up for tonight’s festivities.
Good ramen! Thumbs up.
Afternoon activities are a warm up
in front of Tokushima Station.
You can’t help but dance!
The city is getting ready.
The atmosphere is electric.
By 6pm, it’s time for —
THE MAIN EVENT
This is one of the stage areas on route
where dancing is choreographed.
There are two kinds of dances.
The men’s dance which is a powerful crouch.
They draw triangles in the air with their hands.
Their right foot crossing over their left.
Toe first.
In the staging area
they can rouse up the crowd.
Men hold paper lanterns or CHOCHIN
instead of the usual fan in this group.
In the choreographed dances,
men will often show off power to rouse the crowd.
You can see how the men smoothly flip their wrists
By the way, women can also take part in the men’s dance.
The motions are the same.
Before we look at the women's dance
let’s look at their dress.
They were YUKATA and those funny straw hats
called AMIGASA.
I asked some of the ONNA ODORI or women dancers
why it’s shaped like a hard shell taco?
The answer?
No one knew!
But it’s a symbol of both the city and the festival.
You can buy one at the Awa Odori Kaikan Building
for about 1500 yen.
And what about those sandals?
Well, they’re GETA
colored black, white and red like this.
They’re not easy to walk in but
important for the dance.
Onna Odori tip toe with them.
A tap and a step.
That can’t be easy.
Hats off to the ladies.
Back at the main event
you can see the ladies with big smiles
hands waving up in the air.
Tip toe with a tap
and the right foot crossing over the left — and so on.
While dancing, they chant!
YATTOSA! YATTOSA! YATTO! YATTO!
Meaning?
It encouraged the other dancers.
Some REN or (dance) groups are quite large.
The musicians are last
with the drums.
There are professional Awaodori REN or groups
but this is also a festival for the people
and the NIWAKA REN is where the general public
can join in on the parade route.
If you’re new, they’ll teach you the dance.
Best of all, it’s free to join.
No reservations required.
The Awaodori is traditionally a massive city wide dance party.
It’s believed to have started in 1586
when Tokushima Castle opened
locals drinking too much sake
and weaving in the streets to the beat of the music.
In 1671
we know that it existed for sure because an edict stated
SAMURAI were banned from the event because
they continuously disgraced themselves with shameful behaviour
during the event.
When the main event is over, the street partying begins!
Near Aibahama Park on the main street and bridge
are where some of the biggest crowds seem to be.
Participants in the parade give unplanned and random dances
where people on the street can dance along.
The streets are crowded for 500 meters with dancing and partying.
Things start picking up as the night goes on.
The energy here is infectious. It’s hard to stand still.
When you’re at the Awaodori
you’ll probablu also hear the Awa Yoshikono chant.
The dancers are fools.
The watchers are fools.
Both are fools alike so
Why not dance?
I tossed the camera to a friend and went in to dance too, but —
It’s already finished here.
Finished?!
Yes.
This spot had already finished.
The party moved on down the street.
And away we go!
— to the end of this episode with the epilogue.
This is the Awaodori.
If you’re in Tokushima in August
you can not miss this event!
All this energy, all this passion —
this is Japanese summer
and it’s awesome.
Make sure you check out the 360 video companion
to this Awaodori video
on the new ONLY in JAPAN 360 channel
Next time
I stay in Shikoku to visit Japan’s oldest onsen
in Matsuyama which happens to also
allow tattooed bathers!
This is DOGO ONSEN
the inspiration for Ghibli’s “Spirited Away"
and one of my favourite places in Japan.
Don’t forget your yukata and towel.