Welcome back, Thio, another working Vargas video here on the G 40.

And I wasn't really expecting to do much more work than on this than what we did in the first video.

Basically, I was expecting you pretty much just go into painting soon after.

But there's a couple of the things that I wanted to do, and I want to share with you guys here in this video.

So there's a couple of things to point out here.

The steam lines once removed on the arms you can see are pretty much invisible.

So just a note, because a couple people didn't ask about this.

Well, can you remove steam lines and not paint the kid?

No, I've noticed.

Usually it's only really possible, for the most part is on white plastic, because then it's very much invisible.

You can see even here on the sides of the body, those red parts after the C minus removed.

There's not really much there.

You can see there's a little bit kind of marking there from where the gate marks were originally, and I think if you went ahead and saying to this more, I just ended.

This would like like 800 grit sandpaper if you went to like 1214 great sandpaper and got that really back to being super smooth.

This scene mind would pretty much be on invisible on that, so you could probably get away with doing some C minor move on this and then not painting the kid if you're so inclined.

As speaking of semen ruble, I did also go ahead and glue the steam line down here on the lower legs just because I was back and forth in the last thing.

I mentioned that I would didn't want to remove the seam line here on the thigh and lower leg, but I decided I did want to remove this one here on the lower legs.

I've got that glue to the moments not sanded down yet, so I need to send that and a little one other quick thing here on the knee.

That yellow part there's like three events down here.

The bottom in them will invent there at the top, but I wanted ahead and just send that down.

Justices make that flat, so later on, when it's painted, I think that little you little bit of the top.

I will paint that in like just the dark gray or something, like just to match the inner frame.

I didn't want another event course, sort of like little furniture detail there at the top of the knee as well.

It's just a little bit much for me.

I prefer just down here below the knee.

I think it looks better.

So we got the three little events there, and then that will be a separate.

Just a cool, great detail piece at the top.

Now, the other thing that I did want to show you guys just a kind of little modification that I made a very simple thing and not really particularly necessary for any reason.

But well, I think maybe just make my life a little bit easier if you're wanting to paint the top and bottom half of this lower legs, different colors, and you could make a very subtle modification to be able to just remove this part like that.

Now, on this part here, there was a little tab sticking out.

Just cut that tab off, and then you can easily just remove this part, as he would like now, unfortunately, think that will mean that that will possibly come out unintentionally when you don't want to come apart.

But I think once the knee is on there, it kind of blocks that from coming out, so it can't really come out of there.

The cool thing about that do is Then you can also rotate this much farther off to the side.

Then you could before, before I was like just a little Wiggles, I decided now can rotate much farther much more than I think you would ever want it to, or need it too.

But then he does seem to hold it on there pretty well.

She's not gonna, like, just fall off randomly.

You could just force glue it if you were too worried about that.

But that was just to help with this disassembly for painting.

I can have this part as two separate peace.

I can pay separately.

And then, like Senator, I just finished sending down the seam line on that in the background here on the backpack as well.

Add this little detail there because on the top of the backpack, I think I mentioned this in the review or maybe during the live build.

At some point I mentioned about this, there was like a little bit of detail here on the top of the backpack, like these four little like notch kind of raise details.

But then there was a mold line running right through the center of those, and I tried just getting rid of the mold line while preserving the details there at first.

But it was just kind of really a pain in the ass.

And so it's all right, just getting rid of that detail.

And so the standard that all completely down and then I wanted Thio go back and add something there.

So just out of this little detail part, they're a little hook detail, part of bar there on the top of the backpack.

Justo, add something else in there, and I'm not totally against going in and adding some more.

A couple more detailed parts somewhere else on this kid, though, I feel like that's probably about it, but I could change my mind sometime between now and once we get to the actual painting.

But the other thing that I wanted to focus on for now is the skirt armor because a lot of you guys said after the first work in progress video that you wanted to see about removing are adjusting the skirt.

I'm ra modifying the screamer so that it's less diaper.

And so you have actual movable front skirts.

So I didn't really care too much about that personally, so I wasn't gonna bother with it.

But a lot of you guys wanted to see that.

So why don't we take a look at how to do that?

I don't know exactly offhand at the moment how I'm planning on doing that, but we'll find out here in a moment.

First thing we need to do is take this apart enough that we know what we're dealing with.

Now I want this side skirt to also be moveable on After taking a look at this for a few minutes, I think it mostly should be possible with this.

Just a cut off piece of runner.

So it's a plastic tube.

They're basically and let's see here we need someone to millimeter a line.

So this, in particular here from Wave, this product is an aluminum, but you could also use brass rods really matter.

I think this should be enough that we need And then some glue, of course.

And drill.

So we're gonna basically Dio is, uh use this plastic as a base drill, holes in it and then use these pins to pin the skirt parts so that they're actually able to move.

And that should work pretty easily, I suppose.

But we'll find out those folks on the front skirt first.

The first thing you do is cut the apartment.

You separate them, of course.

So let's pull out.

It's saw.

Now for this one.

I'm once again gonna be using this little Microsoft here from Kabuki A.

And we already have the sort of pen align there for that side, isn't it?

Slipped the saw in, uh, Penhall line there and just gently saw this apart.

All right, so now those are successfully separated and sanded down.

I want to just go ahead and remove these color pieces for now, we just don't really need them where they are.

Okay, So basically, what we're gonna do is take this part here.

I'm gonna cut off two little sections of this which will basically serve as the anchors for our rods to go between the skirts, and I'm going to join the two skirts together through the center, essentially.

And since we're using a one millimetre rod, we're gonna get you a one millimetre drill here and just drill into the center of that probably would have been easier to drill into the center through this and then cut the piece off of there.

But I've always got more if I just messed this up or something, and I want to go back and cut off a new piece.

That's why it's easy just using parts of runner because you've always got plenty of that lying around.

Once you have the two anchor pieces, they're the holes drilled and knows what I'm gonna do is just take a flat file on.

Just file these on one side just to make one side a little bit flat again.

Probably a good thing would've been to just do this before cutting it off, because now I'm working with this little tiny piece and a little bit hard to hold.

But I just want to make it so that one side is a little bit flat.

There we go, and then that flat side is going to be what we're gonna glue up onto the inside of this car and I'm gonna go that up on to the underside of this part here, which is this is like, uh, the front of the skirt.

So this is the top of the front skirt, and it's gonna be glued up underneath the top of the front skirt there.

So that's where I want to do this.

So I just need a flat surface to just give it a little bit Maur to, uh, Thio here to the glue there.

That looks pretty good just up in there like that.

Now, of course, when you just get that some time to dry, I'll go and file and glue in the other side of them will work on the center part.

So ask for this part based on where the Rod is gonna line up once the skirts are going there.

Between there, I can tell that I need to drill a hole basically right about there, right through the center of here.

And then the rod should go straight through between the two has the front scripts just through the center of this part right there.

Just something like that.

So I want to give the glue a little more time to dry on these before we test that out.

So put that to the side for now and take a look at this side skirts things.

I want to make the side skirts able to move also, if these were basically going to do the same thing using an anchor and rod basically for that.

But we need to remove these little bits here on the side of these parts, which plug into the front and back skirts because we don't want it to plug into the front of back skirts.

We wanted to move freely so I could just go ahead and clip those remove those.

Also, I can clip and remove this part, which will plug it.

They're on to the center of the waste because it's not going to be plugged into the center of the waist.

But just clip that off there as well.

And over here around on the Baxter, I went ahead and just cut out this little part of this little part where the part of the side skirt plugs into.

They're just gonna cut that away because we're gonna basically gonna have to do in this case is put an anchor on the back skirt here and on the science.

Girls love to cut off a little piece of this.

I would have filed the top of this.

We've already got the top part of that flat.

What, to put a little bit here on this part right there and then a little bit under here on the side skirt.

Millville stick a bit of rod in between them.

And then they should just blood onto each other like that.

So this side skirt will hinge actually off of the backstory here like that.

So that's how in theory this should work.

Now we have to deal with some various small little parts here, so you're definitely gonna have to be careful.

Alright.

Villas are little bits are prepared here, so it's gonna go ahead and glue these all in place this one up in here and then on the side skirts as well up in there like that and you can check to see.

It's like those are gonna be lining up basically like that once we have the rod in between them.

And so I need to check.

Make sure that the lineup is good on them.

Looks like it's gonna be just about rice.

It should work.

Okay, so I gave those parts some time to sit overnight, and glue should be cured enough.

I can feel confident and that now we can just cut some pieces of our brat are not brass aluminum, rod.

And we can see how well it's gonna work here and now again, this is not going to be.

It's gonna be relatively delicate, so it's not gonna be something I'm gonna want to play with the whole bunch.

But the point is, that's just going to give us a little bit of articulation where we didn't have articulation before.

So as long as that does that successfully, then I'll count this as a success again.

I'm seeing that I said this in a little bit closer, so it's not wanting to go move out because these parts here in the center kind of crashing into each other a little bit so I can fix that easily by just taking this part here on the side where the sites where it originally did plug into there and just shaving that down a little bit, so I'll just use my knife to just kind of slice away.

About a millimeter of that should be enough, all right.

We'll have to do the same to the other side, I assume, or we'll see just in case.

But for now, anyway, should work just fine.

Second, see, it's a little bit delicate, but at least we'll move up and down now, so that's cool.

And once we've got some paint on their everything, of course, will tighten up a little bit.

You got a layer of paint on it, but for the time being, that works.

Then we can do the same here for the front skirt, into one side, through center there and into the science.

News is way more and I need a second.

Go ahead and lift it off that Alright, there we go.

So now those are joined together so they could move them separately because they're neither of them are glued.

But now they can move together separately.

And that works really well.

These air much tighter than the side.

The side school ones are gonna be a little bit iffy, but at least for the time being that is now fully articulated.

So that's cool.

And all right, I say that's a pretty good success.

Now I have these lifts it up just for the effect at the moment to see you guys can see that.

But now that we have the articulation there in the skirt armor, now we bring the leg up to the front.

You don't have to actually bend it there in the thigh, at least to get it up this morning.

I need Father.

That's gonna be still a little bit if you and the problem now that I'm going into, aside from this Becks skirt part completely fund off is that they're clashing here a little bit in the corner where the front corner of the front skirts is hitting it into the side skirts.