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  • DAN: All right.

  • Everybody, welcome back to another week of exploring digital media.

  • This is our second lecture here in the cinema.

  • And this week we're going to be talking about framing composition and lens

  • basics.

  • And we'll actually tackle this in the reverse order today.

  • We're going to start with lenses.

  • So let's dive right in.

  • We have two typical types of lenses.

  • We have prime lenses and zoom lenses.

  • And who wants to give me a quick definition?

  • What's the difference?

  • Yeah.

  • AUDIENCE: A prime lens is a fixed focal length,

  • and a zoom will have a range from 70 to 200 [INAUDIBLE]..

  • DAN: OK.

  • Yeah.

  • So we have a fixed focal length on one, which means you can't zoom.

  • Right?

  • And a zoom lens or a variable focal length lens can zoom.

  • Which means you can literally crank a ring on the lens

  • and the image other enlarges or gets farther away.

  • Right?

  • All right.

  • Great.

  • Prime lenses.

  • Construction is pretty simple.

  • Inside we have a couple of lens element groups

  • that when you turn the focus ring, some of them move,

  • bring your image into focus or out of focus.

  • And a zoom lens is a bit more complicated.

  • As we look at this cross section here you've

  • got a couple different lens groupings that

  • move to either zoom your image in or zoom it out.

  • And also change your focus.

  • But I mean, look how complicated this thing is.

  • Look how many lenses we have and how many moving parts there are.

  • It's pretty crazy when you actually look at it.

  • But why might we choose one or the other?

  • Let's talk about some pros and cons.

  • When would you want to have a simple prime lens or a zoom lens?

  • Who's got some use cases for me?

  • And zoom, feel free to-- if you're in the distant audience feel

  • free to chime in as well.

  • Yeah.

  • AUDIENCE: I guess you would use a zoom lens

  • if you want to be able to respond to the [INAUDIBLE]..

  • DAN: OK.

  • So when you want to respond quickly.

  • OK so maybe you don't know what's going to happen.

  • You're covering an event or and you need the versatility.

  • Yeah.

  • That makes sense.

  • How about an argument for a prime lens?

  • Yeah.

  • AUDIENCE: When you want to isolate your subjects with a shallow depth of field.

  • DAN: Oh.

  • A shallow depth of field.

  • OK.

  • But can you not have a shallow depth of field on a zoom lens?

  • AUDIENCE: You can if you zoom all the way up to 200.

  • DAN: OK.

  • AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE] aperture.

  • DAN: So maybe there are some tricks to getting a shallow depth of field

  • with the zoom lens.

  • But maybe it's easier on the prime lens?

  • Is that always the case?

  • AUDIENCE: No.

  • But [INAUDIBLE].

  • DAN: Not necessarily.

  • So there's something in a zoom lens' construction

  • that might make it easier to have a shallow depth of field.

  • And we're going to talk more about what that means

  • a little bit next week when we talk about exposure.

  • Anybody have anything else?

  • How about our zoom audience?

  • Somebody give me a benefit of a prime lens over a zoom lens.

  • Just open your mic up and start talking.

  • Yeah.

  • AUDIENCE: Say it again, Alex.

  • DAN: Go ahead.

  • AUDIENCE: I think maybe prime lenses let in more light basically.

  • DAN: Let in more light.

  • So prime lenses tend to be faster.

  • Right?

  • They actually let more light down the barrel of the lens,

  • which means you get better low-light performance.

  • All right.

  • Great.

  • AUDIENCE: Prime lenses are lighter.

  • DAN: Prime lenses are lighter.

  • All right.

  • So the physicality of the lens is much smaller.

  • Easier to move around.

  • If you're going to carry a camera with you maybe

  • you're taking a prime lens with you.

  • Exactly.

  • Right?

  • So They're also-- they tend to be cheaper

  • because the construction is simpler.

  • We said faster.

  • I like to put forced creativity here because with the zoom lens

  • people stand in one place and will just zoom in or out to get

  • the shot that they want.

  • But it really forces you to get creative.

  • You have to actually get closer to your subject or farther away.

  • So I think that it's a really handy way as a starting photographer

  • to challenge yourself to build a more complicated frame.

  • They're lighter.

  • There's less to break.

  • So if you have to replace it, it's cheaper.

  • And zoom lenses tend to be more expensive.

  • They're slower as far as how much light comes down the barrel of the lens.

  • But you do get that versatility.

  • Right?

  • If you're going to cover an event it's much easier to have a zoom lens

  • so that you can snap in or snap out, depending

  • on what's happening with the action.

  • Or even if you don't want to carry a bunch of lenses with you.

  • Let's say you're going out to shoot in nature

  • and you just don't want to carry three lenses with you so

  • that you have the options.

  • A zoom lens will give all those to you.

  • All right.

  • So there are three categories that we define lenses in.

  • Either a wide-angle lens.

  • a normal lens, or a telephoto lens.

  • Are the three typical ways that we define these.

  • The three categories of lenses.

  • And so let's first just think about what we see with our human eye.

  • OK?

  • So we have a peripheral vision of about 180 degrees which is pretty wide.

  • But we can't focus on everything in our peripheral vision at once.

  • The area that we actually can kind of focus on is called your foveal vision

  • and it's about 40 degrees wide.

  • Which is pretty narrow when you think about it.

  • So a camera lens all have different fields of view.

  • And they're typically marked with this marking over here

  • that is something in millimeters.

  • So the lens on screen here is a 50-millimeter lens

  • and it has a field of view of 46 degrees.

  • And I have a little asterisk down here that's

  • on a full-frame 35-millimeter sensor.

  • And we'll get to what that means in a second.

  • And we measure this diagonally on the image.

  • So diagonally across an image.

  • And I do sneak pictures of my kids into my slides.

  • From corner to corner we have a 46 degree of view.

  • And that's just kind of interesting.

  • It's not the reason that a normal lens is called--

  • or a 50-millimeter lens is a normal lens on a full-frame sensor.

  • But it's just interesting that the degree of view that you see--

  • that you can pay attention to in any detail

  • is similar to what a normal lens is.

  • But really a normal lens defines the spatial relationships between objects,

  • whether things are distorted and pushed farther away--

  • or compressed in on top of each other.

  • A normal lens has the same properties of what your human eye sees.

  • So again, a normal lens on a full-frame sensor

  • is about 50-millimeter will just give you

  • a typical spatial relationship between objects that you see down your lens.

  • All right.

  • So a telephoto lens is anything that's zoomed in.

  • And I have pictured here prime lenses but certainly,

  • zoom lenses or telephoto as well.

  • This is an 85-millimeter lens, which has a field of view on a full-frame camera

  • of about 28 degrees.

  • So we're really narrowing down our field of view at this point.

  • Whereas the wide-angle lens is the opposite.

  • Right?

  • So a 35-millimeter will give us about 63 degrees for the field of view.

  • So which you might choose depends on what story you're going to go tell.

  • How much of an area do you need to see?

  • We've talked about what categories we have lenses in.

  • Let's now play a game where we can actually look at images

  • and describe what qualities we see in these.

  • So we'll play a little game called wide, normal, or telephoto.

  • All right.

  • And how we play this is, I'm going to put up an image.

  • And you're going to tell me, what do you think?

  • Are we looking at a wide-angle, a normal, or a telephoto?

  • So someone in the audience here.

  • Yes.

  • AUDIENCE: Wide.

  • DAN: This is a wide-angle lens.

  • Why do you say that?

  • AUDIENCE: Because of the distortion with the ducks

  • are closer to the front element of the lens.

  • And you can see a lot of the background as well.

  • DAN: OK.

  • So I'm hearing that we have a lot of distortion in the lens.

  • Right?

  • So what is it that is distorted in this image?

  • AUDIENCE: The beak and the duck's head because that's not how the ducks look.

  • DAN: OK.

  • So this isn't quite how a duck looks.

  • Right?

  • This is kind of a wild looking image.

  • Right?

  • And it's the distance in this image that's spread out.

  • Right?

  • Like we're elongating the ducks nose because we're so close to it.

  • Right?

  • And the distance behind it is really--

  • things spread out and get really far away.

  • Even though these ducks aren't that big.

  • Right?

  • The trees presumably aren't as far away as they might seem in this image.

  • Right?

  • AUDIENCE: Right.

  • DAN: Very good.

  • And so this it's actually a very wide-angle lens.

  • The 35-millimeter equivalent is 7.2 millimeters.

  • So that's a very wide-angle lens.

  • How about this one?

  • Oh, crap.

  • I left it up there.

  • Spoiler.

  • Why [? done with a ?] telephoto?

  • I'll just stand over here.

  • Somebody else.

  • Ian, what do you think?

  • AUDIENCE: I don't know.

  • If you look at the width of the road and how it gets smaller

  • and the background-- the difference between proximity and sort

  • of the expansiveness of the space.

  • I'd say it's probably a little bit wider.

  • Maybe would be my guess.

  • DAN: So you are correct.

  • This is another very wide-angle lens.

  • The equivalent is 11.9 millimeters.

  • Another road.

  • So similar to what we just looked at.

  • Does this one feel different than the wide-angle lens we just saw?

  • Anyone,

  • AUDIENCE: Yes.

  • DAN: Right.

  • Yes, Dan.

  • It does.

  • It looks quite a bit different.

  • Right?

  • So instead of the road being wide up front as Ian said,

  • and narrowing off very quickly, it's almost the same shape all the way down.

  • And what is further away in the image feels much closer.

  • Right?

  • So we're probably looking at a--

  • AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE].

  • DAN: --or even a telephoto lens in this case.

  • I jumped right over normal lens and went right to telephoto.

  • So this image has a 135-millimeter lens on it.

  • This image does.

  • So this is actually a telephoto lens.

  • And things-- we're looking at a compression of space.

  • Whereas the wide-angle lens distorted and exaggerated distance.

  • A telephoto lens does the opposite.

  • It compresses space.

  • How about this one?

  • What do we think?

  • Kareem?

  • AUDIENCE: That feels wide.

  • DAN: It feels wide.

  • Why do you say?

  • AUDIENCE: The trees in back seem to be very far

  • away [? whether ?] they should be.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • So distance again is a bit more exaggerated here.

  • Right?

  • You know we are looking at a landscape that presumably has distance in it.

  • But what is close feels exaggerated compared to what is far away.

  • Right?

  • You are correct.

  • This is a 28-millimeter lens.

  • So this is a wide-angle lens as well in this case.

  • This is a couple more here.

  • How about this?

  • We've got some interesting things happening here.

  • We've got some sharp elements and some blurred elements.

  • But that has nothing to do with our lens itself.

  • Do we think this is wide, normal, or telephoto?

  • AUDIENCE: Almost normal I would say.

  • DAN: Say it again.

  • AUDIENCE: Almost normal, I would say.

  • DAN: Almost normal?

  • AUDIENCE: Mm-hm.

  • DAN: Yes.

  • It's slightly wide but almost normal.

  • Much closer than the last one.

  • Right?

  • So 35 millimeters.

  • How about this one?

  • AUDIENCE: Telephoto lens.

  • DAN: A telephoto lens?

  • And give me the why.

  • I know we keep looking at same images but--

  • AUDIENCE: Because everything seems [INAUDIBLE] compressed [INAUDIBLE]..

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • Exactly.

  • It's that compression of space.

  • Right.

  • How far away is the mountain from Seattle here?

  • AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE]

  • DAN: Right?

  • It could almost be right in the city.

  • It's hard to tell.

  • Whereas if we look-- so again, 135-millimeter lens.

  • So a telephoto lens.

  • If we look at the same thing.

  • Right?

  • So in the previous image that we just looked at,

  • this is the Space Needle in Seattle.

  • Right?

  • On this slide here, this image is taken from the Space Needle.

  • Right?

  • So we're even closer than the last image was, yet

  • the mountain feels so much farther away.

  • Right?

  • And we see a lot more distance and space exaggerated in the city here.

  • So seeing the difference?

  • And this is an 8-millimeter lens almost.

  • How about this one?

  • This one's interesting.

  • We see a lot in this one.

  • Right?

  • We've got a whole bunch of mountains in the background.

  • But is it a wide-angle angle lens?

  • AUDIENCE: More normal.

  • DAN: You're going normal?

  • Anybody want to argue counter?

  • 70-millimeter.

  • So just telephoto of normal?

  • But this is to show that you don't have--

  • like a telephoto lens, or a longer lens, doesn't have to be for a tight shot

  • every time.

  • Right?

  • You can use a telephoto lens for a wider shot.

  • You just have to back up.

  • All right.

  • And this feels different than that wide-angle lens.

  • Right?

  • The space is more compressed.

  • Like you mentioned something called depth of field.

  • Right?

  • How much is in focus.

  • How much is out of focus.

  • That's a little easier to do on a lens that's longer.

  • This one?

  • AUDIENCE: Did you input any panoramas or any trick photos or no?

  • DAN: No.

  • I did not.

  • I'm not pulling any trick punches today.

  • Trying to throw a couple of tricks in but nothing like that.

  • AUDIENCE: A wide?

  • DAN: A wide?

  • Why do you say wide?

  • AUDIENCE: Because it's like the beginning one.

  • You could see a lot of the shot.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • You can see a lot of this shot.

  • You can see the mountains in the background.

  • But look specifically at the relationship

  • between the buildings in front and the background

  • elements here of the mountain.

  • Is there a lot of separation between them?

  • AUDIENCE: Mm-mm.

  • DAN: Not too much.

  • Right?

  • We've kind of compressed everything right up against.

  • You can't tell if this mountain is--

  • I don't know-- I'm going to exaggerate distance here-- five miles or 10 miles.

  • Right?

  • Whereas if it was a wide-angle lens I think

  • that we would actually see a much bigger spread of distance here.

  • Like, the little town that we're looking at is almost like a flat plain

  • even though we know that the buildings have space.

  • So this is actually a telephoto lens.

  • It's a 300-millimeter lens.

  • IAN: I think in all your examples we've seen a loss of the middle ground.

  • Or the foreground elements are always all there very prominently,

  • and the background objects get compressed in

  • to be almost relatively as prominent.

  • And that middle ground that we're used to seeing, it sort of disappears.

  • And it's almost as if you take a piece of paper

  • and you fold it and bring them closer together in some ways.

  • Right?

  • DAN: All right.

  • So this is our last image in this little game that we're playing.

  • I know was having a great time.

  • Wide, normal, or telephoto?

  • What do you think, Scully?

  • AUDIENCE: I think it's a telephoto.

  • DAN: All right.

  • Why?

  • Give me the why.

  • AUDIENCE: Because the distance between the trees is very condensed.

  • And the size of the people in comparison to the trees

  • is, I would say they look--

  • I mean-- they are relatively small physically compared to the trees.

  • But they're all similar on similar planes.

  • DAN: Cool.

  • Anybody want to argue counter?

  • AUDIENCE: There hasn't been one normal one this whole time.

  • That's [INAUDIBLE].

  • DAN: It's actually-- this is a wide-angle lens.

  • Right?

  • It's a little bit of a trick.

  • And I think part of what confuses it is the mist that's in the background

  • because it does have the flattening effect.

  • But if you look at the size of the trees and how cavernous

  • it is before we get to these people.

  • It's a tricky one.

  • It's definitely not a straightforward one.

  • All right.

  • So yeah.

  • We talked about the wide lens as well.

  • And I keep saying the equivalency on a 35-millimeter sensor.

  • This is something that's an important distinction.

  • And so what we're talking about is the actual sensor size in your camera

  • that is going to affect what a 35-millimeter lens looks like.

  • So digital cameras have a whole bunch of different sensor sizes.

  • And you need to look up your specifications

  • to see what size is in your camera.

  • But the two typical ones that we see these days in most consumer,

  • and prosumer cameras, are the APS-C-sized lenses.

  • Which canon and Nikon have very similar sizes.

  • As well as the full-frame 35-millimeter sensor.

  • This blue line here.

  • And what is the actual impact on our images

  • when we put a lens on our camera?

  • Let's take a look.

  • Right?

  • So if this is our image circle that our lens projects, and we put the same lens

  • on both cameras, the red box is going to be what

  • the full-frame sensor is going to see.

  • And the blue frame is going to be with the APS-C or the smaller sensor sees.

  • And so the effect is that if you put a 50-millimeter lens--

  • which you might have heard is a normal lens--

  • on a 35-millimeter sensor, it's not going

  • to be the same when you put it on to an APS-C-sized sensor.

  • Because it's actually going to have the effect of cropping in and feeling

  • more like a telephoto lens-- or it will be a more telephoto lens.

  • So if we take these comparison side by side, you're going to see on the left

  • here that you actually get a whole lot more image out of the same image.

  • You get a lot more space out of the same lens.

  • And on the right side, you're a bit more cropped in.

  • So this is just to say just because a lens says 50 millimeters or 30

  • millimeters, it doesn't mean that it is categorically a wide, or a normal,

  • or a telephoto lens.

  • It depends on the camera that you put it on.

  • So to give you a sense of what kind of fields of view

  • you get on a full-frame sensor.

  • 14 millimeters is about one of the wider lenses that you're going to find.

  • And you can work your way in.

  • That's going to give you about 114 degrees of field of view.

  • Right?

  • 24 is going to give you about 84 degrees.

  • 35 millimeter-- this purple here--

  • is going to give you 63 degrees field of view.

  • And we can work our way in.

  • But it's interesting to compare this directly

  • against the APS-C-sized sensor.

  • So on an APS-C-sized sensor--

  • so all these down here.

  • These degrees are about the same.

  • The exact equivalent doesn't exist but you need to put these size lenses on

  • to get the same fields of view.

  • So it's just an interesting thing to consider.

  • Like, when you pick up a lens--

  • a 35-millimeter lens is not always the same depending on your camera system.

  • I just want to hammer that home.

  • IAN: Well, to be clear, the lens is always the same just the angle of view

  • is what changes.

  • Right?

  • So that there is sort of a relativity of how

  • a lens might act based off of the hardware-- the camera--

  • that you attach to it.

  • OK?

  • If that makes a little bit more sense.

  • DAN: All right.

  • So why is it that all lenses are marked in millimeters if that's not

  • a constant between cameras?

  • Right?

  • And it's because of how the distance inside

  • of the lens from where that goes to the actual sensor plane or film plane,

  • depending on your camera system.

  • But it's just important to know that if you're using APS-C,

  • we talk about the crop factor or the equivalency.

  • So usually if we talk about lenses we bring it back the equivalency

  • to the 35-millimeter sensor.

  • And so to convert an APS-C magnification,

  • we need to multiply by 1.6 X or so.

  • So that means that a 30-millimeter lens is going

  • to turn into a 48-millimeter lens.

  • And the range of a normal lens is about 45, 50 millimeters, to 60, 70.

  • It varies a little bit.

  • And then a 60-millimeter lens like the lens on the right here,

  • is going to be multiplied and it's going to be

  • the equivalent of a 96-millimeter millimeter

  • lens on a 35-millimeter sensor.

  • Hopefully, this is making sense.

  • We're going to pick apart what some of these markings on the lenses mean.

  • So this is a zoom lens.

  • You can see that on this ring here it goes from 18 millimeters

  • to 135 millimeters.

  • It's a little bit pixelated on this screen.

  • But this is a lens that's made to go on an APS-C lens.

  • And so that means that the equivalent-- when we do the math--

  • is a 28-millimeter lens to a 216 equivalent--

  • not actual lens-- the equivalency.

  • So am I making sense, Ian?

  • I feel like I'm [INAUDIBLE]--

  • IAN: Yeah, so--

  • DAN: [INAUDIBLE].

  • IAN: I think the thing is that focal length for any given lens

  • is defined by where the position of the glass elements are.

  • And it doesn't change from lens the lens.

  • So a 35-millimeter lens is always a 35-millimeter lens.

  • OK?

  • But whether that lens acts as a wide-angle lens, or a telephoto lens,

  • or a normal lens, and has the visual art effects

  • that we were just looking at when we were analyzing those images,

  • depends on the camera body that lens is attached to.

  • So in some ways.

  • When we talk about crop factor, what we're just saying

  • is that if you use this lens on a 35-millimeter camera body

  • it'll be normal.

  • But if you put it on APS-C, it actually gets a little bit more telephoto.

  • And so the artifacts that we noticed in the telephoto images

  • will crop up in those images a little bit.

  • But so at the end of the day, because there's

  • so much variability in the size of sensors, and the types of lenses,

  • that we have through--

  • pretty much just colloquially-- settled on 35-millimeter full frames

  • as our moment of reference.

  • So you'll hear a lot of people say that a 50-millimeter is a normal lens.

  • And that is true on a 35-millimeter camera.

  • And so that's why they're colloquially saying that that's a normal sentence.

  • But it's not entirely true because you could make that lens look telephoto.

  • And you even with a bigger sensor, could make that lens look more wide angle.

  • It's just that conventionally it's much easier

  • to talk about these things in reference to one specific sensor size.

  • And so because of the prevalence of 35-millimeter film

  • over the history of photography, we settled on the 35-millimeter full frame

  • size.

  • OK?

  • And so I think what we're trying to illustrate

  • is that the lenses have a specific focal length.

  • And that there are visual artifacts based off

  • of whether those lenses are acting as wide, normal, or telephoto lenses.

  • And that the body that you attach to that lens matters.

  • And so there's this relationship between the size of the sensor and the lens,

  • that will be important for you understanding whether this lens acts

  • as a telephoto or acts as a normal.

  • OK?

  • So it's just something to be aware of.

  • And for the most part, when you buy, say, an APS-C camera, then

  • you're going to get a kit lens that maybe goes from 14 to 60.

  • But when you buy a 35-millimeter camera with a kit lens,

  • maybe it goes from 24 to 85.

  • So the manufacturers are aware of this relationship.

  • And so the lenses that you get with any specific camera body

  • are usually designed to be the range that you will find most useful.

  • A little bit wide, some normal, and a little bit telephoto.

  • OK?

  • But just do be aware that when you mix and match bodies and lenses,

  • that you can run into get some of these weird effects

  • where a lens actually appears more telephoto

  • than maybe you might be expecting.

  • DAN: OK.

  • Perfectly distilled.

  • Thank you.

  • All right.

  • So let's just look at some of the other markings on this lens

  • since we're talking about lenses today.

  • So here we have a Canon zoom lens.

  • We have this EF-S and that's Canon-specific nomenclature

  • for "this is an APS-C lens."

  • It's made to go on our smaller sensor size.

  • This is the focal length of the lens.

  • It's 10 to 18 millimeters.

  • And then we've got this ratio here, 1 to 4.5 to 5.6.

  • Does anybody know what that means?

  • This is a little bit of a teaser for next time.

  • Yes.

  • AUDIENCE: Aperture.

  • DAN: It's the aperture.

  • Right.

  • And what is the aperture?

  • AUDIENCE: The hole in the lens.

  • DAN: Sure.

  • It's that opening that opens and closes and controls how much light comes down

  • the barrel of the lens.

  • Yeah.

  • And do you know why we have two different markings on it?

  • AUDIENCE: Yeah.

  • Because it's the zoom so it's widest is that 4.5 and when it zooms,

  • all the way to 5.6.

  • I've never understood that one in the code.

  • DAN: That one?

  • It's just the ratio.

  • So yeah.

  • So what we're saying here is the zoom-- what is your name again?

  • AUDIENCE: Ralph.

  • DAN: Ralph.

  • So Ralph is saying our widest aperture on this lens when we're all the way

  • zoomed out is 4.5.

  • And when you zoom in, actually you can't get that wide anymore.

  • Your maximum aperture-- the widest it can be--

  • is 5.6.

  • And we'll get to what those numbers mean when we talk about exposure.

  • But just know that this means that the aperture is actually variable as well.

  • And you don't have a ton of control when you're

  • zoomed in because there's that is the widest it can be.

  • IS.

  • Anybody know what this stands for?

  • And this is different depending on camera brand.

  • Yes, Connor.

  • AUDIENCE: Image stabilization.

  • DAN: Image stabilization.

  • So this lens has image stabilization in it.

  • And STM is simply the model of lens that this is.

  • So Canon has the STM series.

  • They have L series, where the L series is their our top tier.

  • The STM's the step below, but a lot cheaper.

  • And so you might get a very similar lens with slightly different construction.

  • All right.

  • And so the equivalent-- if we talk about the equivale3ncy--

  • is 16-millimeter to 28-millimeter on this lens for a full-frame sensor.

  • All right.

  • And just to reiterate, If you were to take a APS-C lens

  • and put it on a full-frame camera this is what's going to happen.

  • You're going to actually vignette the edges of your frame

  • if your red frame is the full-frame sensor.

  • So you need to be careful that you buy the right lens for your camera.

  • Because otherwise, this could happen to you.

  • Or maybe the lens doesn't even fit.

  • That's the other thing that could happen to you.

  • So just be aware when you buy.

  • AUDIENCE: One what other devices

  • IAN: Yeah.

  • So if you have a lens design for a full-frame camera.

  • Right?

  • As long as the lens mount and the flange up--

  • which is this distance up that mount to the sensor--

  • work for that camera body--

  • it has enough coverage.

  • Right?

  • This circle that we have projected here is the lens projection.

  • It's called coverage.

  • It has enough coverage.

  • Just always cover a smaller sensor.

  • But it doesn't go the other way.

  • Or it often doesn't go the other way.

  • Because if you think about it, there's sort

  • of a economic reason why you might have a small-- like a lens with less

  • coverage, it has less glass in it.

  • It's less materials.

  • So it's cheaper.

  • It ends up being smaller.

  • And if you will, that will work for a camera with a small sensor size.

  • But if all of a sudden you put that on a camera with a larger sensor size,

  • then you end up with this vignetting around the edges.

  • And I think maybe we've all seen this in old pictures.

  • Where you get that sort of darkness on the edges and

  • it makes more of a circular oval.

  • DAN: And so if you're investing in camera hardware,

  • you might be like, oh, I'm going to not spend much money on a camera body,

  • but I'm going to spend a lot of money on the lens.

  • This is what might happen to you in reverse.

  • You might buy a coverage that gives you all of this coverage,

  • but you're really only using the center of that lens at any given time.

  • So if you're buying a camera with a smaller sensor-- like Ian just

  • described-- it might make more sense to buy

  • the lens that has the circle that's a closer approximation to your sensor

  • just because it's cheaper.

  • And when you upgrade camera systems, at that point you consider

  • do I upgrade my lenses as well?

  • DAN: All right.

  • Another zoom lens.

  • It's the same markings.

  • We've got our EF series.

  • That's Canons mount.

  • We've got the zoom range.

  • We've got the aperture.

  • This one is not variable.

  • All right?

  • So this is a zoom lens.

  • But the aperture is fixed at 2.8.

  • Which means that the aperture, even if you zoom all the way in, doesn't shift.

  • It's always going to be 2.8.

  • And again, we're going to talk about what 2.8 means next time.

  • This little mark down here just tells you the diameter of the lens.

  • So if you're going to buy a filter for it,

  • that's the size filter you need to buy.

  • That's not actually the focal length of the lens.

  • All right.

  • And this is an EF lens.

  • So like we just talked about, if you put this onto an APS-C sensor

  • it's going to crop in.

  • All right.

  • So now, let's see what this does relationally.

  • So this is specifically looking at our subject and background.

  • So where is this guy?

  • Do we know?

  • AUDIENCE: Not exactly.

  • DAN: Not exactly.

  • OK.

  • What do we see?

  • Do we see something in the background?

  • Take a guess.

  • Where is he?

  • AUDIENCE: A street.

  • DAN: A street?

  • OK.

  • We go a little bit wider.

  • And so the size of our subject is the same.

  • This is roughly a medium shot or a medium close-up.

  • Right?

  • That hasn't changed.

  • But what we see has changed.

  • Right?

  • And even how he looks has changed a little bit.

  • And so what we've done is we've gone from a--

  • they're down here in the corner--

  • we've gone from a 280-millimeter to 100 millimeters.

  • All right.

  • And so we can see a little bit more of what's going on here.

  • Keep coming out.

  • We're starting to see a lot more information the farther out we come.

  • Right?

  • So we're down to a 50-millimeter lens or a normal lens.

  • So we're out of the telephoto range.

  • He looks pretty normal still.

  • But we can now see he's in an alley.

  • We see some cars.

  • All right.

  • Coming out even wider.

  • Now, the cars are even getting farther away.

  • So this is interesting.

  • What's actually happening for the photographer

  • here to keep the shot the same as we change our zoom?

  • Ralph?

  • AUDIENCE: You have to get closer.

  • DAN: OK.

  • Yeah.

  • So when we were back at 280 millimeters if I was shooting Ian

  • I was probably some number of feet away.

  • And as I zoom out or change my focal length to be farther out,

  • then I'm walking in closer to get the same shot.

  • Right?

  • But what's happening to the background is really interesting as we do that.

  • And here we go.

  • We're down at 25 millimeters now.

  • Starting to really get a little bit distorted.

  • Would you say?

  • Now we're getting that exaggeration that we saw with the ducks.

  • Right?

  • Is it flattering on a human being?

  • No.

  • I'm getting a head shake down here.

  • Anybody in the back?

  • No.

  • And we get all the way.

  • This is the widest we went.

  • This is a 60-millimeter lens on a 35-millimeter sensor.

  • So the equivalency is 60 millimeters.

  • And you can almost no longer see those cars that we saw initially.

  • Right?

  • They were the biggest things in the frame.

  • And now they're completely covered by him.

  • So but he looks very different.

  • Right?

  • So.

  • Very interesting trade-off that we're making here.

  • The human body.

  • It's the same thing.

  • Things tend to be more flattering at longer lenses.

  • And so at this lens here where we're at 400 millimeters, it's the same thing.

  • Right?

  • She's right in front of the storefront as far as we can tell.

  • There's no sense of space.

  • We don't know how much depth there is--

  • how far away she is from the store.

  • Whereas if we move all the way down the spectrum to 24 millimeters,

  • you're almost wondering where is that painted monkey storefront.

  • Right?

  • It's actually behind her because we feel like she's miles away from it now.

  • So the relationship between your subject and the background

  • probably depend on distance, but also depend

  • on what lens you have on the camera--

  • whether it's wide, normal, or telephoto.

  • Specifically, looking at the human face.

  • 16 millimeters versus 280 millimeters.

  • If you were getting your photo taken, let's say for work for a company page,

  • which lens would you want to be photographed with?

  • I'm sorry say it little louder.

  • AUDIENCE: 85.

  • DAN: 85?

  • OK.

  • So down here.

  • What happens is we come up here.

  • Is there a big difference between these as we go way up?

  • Not really.

  • Right?

  • It gets to the point where it's almost like his face is

  • kind of shrinking inward a little bit which is interesting.

  • But the biggest difference you'll notice just like we saw in the alleyway,

  • is it's actually the background that changes the most drastically.

  • And once we get past roughly here, it's the background

  • that changes most drastically.

  • You can see just how much bigger that background gets each time.

  • But this isn't very flattering.

  • Right?

  • We wouldn't want to have our portraits taken

  • with a wide-angle lens for how much distortion it adds

  • and how much it elongates into your face.

  • IAN: But conversely if you do have, say, a character in a situation

  • where you want them to appear slightly unsettling or unnerving, choosing

  • a wider angle lens to increase the distortion on the facial features

  • might be very effective.

  • And this happens often in suspenseful moments in films, or horror films,

  • or some sci-fi films.

  • Where they'll use the lensing to distort the features a little bit so that it

  • just feels a little bit off.

  • Right?

  • And you can imagine in a conversation back and forth.

  • If you shot me tight with a white on the lens and my features

  • were really distorted.

  • And you shot Dan from a little further away with an 85-millimeter

  • and he looked really handsome, there would be this interesting flip-flop

  • as we talked back and forth.

  • And a difference in the way we were looking.

  • And so you could use that to your advantage

  • to set up some kind of relationship between us in some ways.

  • Right?

  • So all of these things-- even though conventionally we might say,

  • oh, we want to take a beautiful portrait of someone.

  • We're going to use sort of an 85 maybe a 100-millimeter lens.

  • Don't shy away from using the artifacts of these lenses

  • to do something a little bit stranger.

  • Right?

  • DAN: And I think the key there is little bit.

  • Right?

  • It's not it's not a binary thing, where you're either using 16 or 280.

  • But you've got everything in between.

  • So if you want to make somebody feel off just a little bit.

  • Even getting close to the 24 millimeter lens or even

  • the 35 is going to just add a little bit of distortion.

  • So something to consider.

  • The same goes for video.

  • This is a video clip we've got Scully here in this video clip.

  • But this shows the relationship between two people with different lenses.

  • An inch-- or two frames show this.

  • But this has the range in between as well.

  • So let's just take a look at this.

  • So these two characters on a 15-millimeter lens.

  • Right here's 35.

  • Watch the size of them relative to each other as we go in here.

  • 50 millimeters.

  • 75.

  • 100.

  • 150.

  • Right?

  • Where Scully was very large in the frame before,

  • who's becoming the dominant person in the frame now?

  • I mean, all the attention is on Dan--

  • the gentleman on the right.

  • So 260 millimeters.

  • I think this is the farthest in we went.

  • But I always think it's funny to do this.

  • Right?

  • Because you don't really notice it as it's a progression over time.

  • But when you just whip back into the A to B comparison.

  • Like, where are they?

  • Now, you can tell.

  • You get a sense of the space that they're in.

  • And then bam, all the way to the other side.

  • Right?

  • Very, very different relationship between the two people.

  • And very different message that you're sending between these two frames.

  • So that takes us to this clip from Raiders of the Lost Ark

  • which is a movie from 1981 where lens compression was used to the advantage

  • here.

  • [VIDEO PLAYBACK]

  • [MUSIC PLAYING]

  • [CROWD SHOUTING]

  • High drama.

  • They're right behind him.

  • - (SHOUTING) Start the engine!

  • Get it up!

  • [END PLAYBACK]

  • DAN: What happened?

  • They were right behind him.

  • AUDIENCE: He went really fast.

  • DAN: All right.

  • So someone describe for me, what did we just

  • see in the first clip-- in the first shot that we saw?

  • Lens compression.

  • I see-- Ralph is making the hand motion.

  • But lens compression.

  • Right?

  • We're shooting on a telephoto lens which compresses space

  • and we can't tell how far away they are.

  • And then we jump to this shot, which what does this do for us?

  • I mean, it's an interesting choice.

  • But it takes you out of the moment.

  • Right?

  • This element of, "they're right behind him," goes away.

  • And now like--

  • AUDIENCE: It gives him a chance to escape.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • It gives him a chance to escape.

  • Right?

  • So it might give us as the audience some breathing room.

  • But you know, also it kind of ratchets down this tension that's been building.

  • So I think it's just an interesting choice to look at.

  • All right.

  • So we keep looking at different shots sizes.

  • So let's start to talk about the way that we describe shots.

  • And this is particularly relevant to video.

  • And the reason we do this-- we categorize

  • shot sizes is to keep everybody on the same page.

  • So when I say, hey, I want to go get a wide shot or a medium shot.

  • The rest of the people on the crew who are shooting with me

  • know exactly what kind of shot we're going to get.

  • So we standardized our language for this.

  • So we have the extreme wide shot, which this is an example of.

  • It's abbreviated either EWS or XWS.

  • And these are just if you're making a shot list, or making notes to yourself,

  • you might just abbreviate.

  • But what is it that we get from an extreme wide shot?

  • A very big sense of scale.

  • Right?

  • You get a sense of place.

  • If you're establishing a location this might be a shot

  • that you choose because you get so much information in the frame.

  • Right?

  • And we'll work our way in here.

  • So a wide shot, also handy to establish a scene.

  • You get a lot of information out of it.

  • You get more detail.

  • Right?

  • And this is the theme of working your way in tighter

  • as you start to see more details.

  • But you might lose the sense of scale or the overall sense of place.

  • All right.

  • You guys know, the wide shot.

  • We've seen this one before.

  • Right?

  • Hopefully, this was a fun assignment for you.

  • And like I said, just because you have a wide shot doesn't

  • mean that you're on a wide-angle lens.

  • So we can look at a very similar shot.

  • Right?

  • But on this frame here this is, I believe, a normal lens or slightly

  • telephoto lens.

  • And this one is a wide-angle lens.

  • They're roughly the same.

  • Right?

  • This one's a little bit wide.

  • But the two frames feel very different.

  • So which you might choose, it totally depends on what kind of story

  • you're trying to tell, or what you're trying to say,

  • or if you want things to feel weird.

  • What's the other difference in this besides the previous one?

  • AUDIENCE: The carpet is distorted.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • It's distorted.

  • The carpet?

  • Yeah.

  • And why do we notice the carpet more?

  • Where's the camera that does that?

  • AUDIENCE: Down low.

  • DAN: Down low.

  • Yeah.

  • So the camera's almost on the ground in this one.

  • Right?

  • And with a wide lens, it exaggerates them, their height.

  • They feel taller.

  • All the lines get distorted up top, and we see more of the carpet.

  • IAN: Well, it also becomes a little bit more about the environment

  • that they're in.

  • Whereas the previous shot was a lot about their relationship together.

  • And this in some ways feels a little bit more

  • about their experience in this larger space.

  • And so you can think about using this for narrative intent too.

  • If you have some kind of story that is about, say,

  • it's the opening of a new building.

  • Then maybe you're going to use a wide-angle lens

  • to show the expansiveness of the building

  • while you're interviewing the director of that building or something.

  • Or conversely, if you have a story that's

  • maybe just two people who are in a relationship or something,

  • and the environment doesn't matter.

  • Then maybe you'll choose something that really focuses in on them

  • and feels much more contained and confined.

  • OK.

  • DAN: All right.

  • Continuing to work our way in.

  • Here's a full shot.

  • And this is typically somebody's body from head

  • to toe without cutting them off.

  • And it's the same thing.

  • You can multiple people in a full shot.

  • But the idea is it's about the height of a person

  • and depending on the width of your frame you'll

  • get all the information around them.

  • All right.

  • So here's three people.

  • And we've even got someone's shoulder cut off at the edge of the frame here.

  • All right.

  • Medium-wide shot.

  • So now we're above the ankle.

  • We're below the waist still and this is working our way in.

  • Another medium wide shot.

  • Right?

  • So it's a little bit looser than the waist.

  • Good shot to put multiple people together

  • on if you're trying to give a full sense of people

  • and the relationship between them.

  • Medium shot this one is pretty much at the waist to just above the head

  • all right and it doesn't matter what the frame

  • you could have a square frame or a 16 X 9 frame

  • and it's the same amount of space.

  • Right?

  • Still at the waist to just over the head.

  • That is what makes up a medium shot.

  • Medium close-up.

  • right?

  • We're starting to lose, in particular, the background.

  • And we know we can cheat this by using a different lens.

  • If we used a wider-angle lens we might see more of the background .

  • But we're starting to really focus on our character at this point.

  • It's becoming very clearly about them, or an item

  • or whatever is in your frame.

  • All right?

  • Close-up.

  • We're now starting to possibly cut off the top of the head.

  • We're just below the chin typically.

  • And so this is where you get a lot more detail.

  • Right?

  • We're starting to see a lot more of the eyes

  • and get the expression, and the emotional state of the character.

  • And then we have extreme close-up.

  • This is kind of the opposite of our extreme wide shot.

  • Right?

  • This is just a piece of something.

  • And oftentimes it's used to reveal a different detail where you

  • might see what somebody is looking at.

  • Or you might get a sense of how they're feeling

  • because of how their eyes are moving.

  • There's lots of different reasons to use this.

  • And it doesn't have to be of a person.

  • We usually talk about shot sizes in relation to people

  • but you can have an extreme close-up of an object

  • where you only see a piece of it.

  • IAN: Right.

  • And think about the Hitchcock rule that Dan alluded to a couple of weeks ago,

  • where the larger an object, the more important it is.

  • And much of our job as editors, and directors, and filmmakers,

  • focusing attention.

  • So the extreme global close-up is really useful if there's some sort of item

  • that you really want to draw the audience's attention to.

  • And you'll see that a lot.

  • The close-up on the briefcase, or something like that.

  • AUDIENCE: What focal length would you reach

  • for when you know you want to frame a shot on someone's face, for instance.

  • DAN: So what focal length would you want if you

  • wanted to get a shot someone's face?

  • It depends on what you want to tell.

  • We've seen that you can use a wide-angle lens and get very close to somebody

  • and have an extreme close-up.

  • But the effect is you're going to really distort their face and elongate it.

  • And you're going to get a wide area of the background.

  • Whereas if you want to focus on them you might reach for a telephoto lens

  • where you compress the background, throw it

  • in soft focus and not really notice what's there,

  • but really focus on the person themselves.

  • So it depends on what it is you're trying to achieve.

  • All right.

  • Quick quiz.

  • You guys have been sitting here letting us do all the talking up here.

  • So let's play this game.

  • What shot size is this?

  • Max?

  • AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE]

  • DAN: I heard close-up.

  • No.

  • Not focal length, Max.

  • What shot size.

  • Right?

  • So this is a close-up up.

  • Exactly.

  • Right?

  • So we're chopping off just the top of the head.

  • We're just below the chin.

  • How about this?

  • AUDIENCE: XWS.

  • DAN: XWS?

  • Possibly.

  • Or maybe just a wide shot.

  • AUDIENCE: Maybe.

  • DAN: Right?

  • It's in-between.

  • We don't have a full sense of where we are necessarily.

  • AUDIENCE: Just a wide shot.

  • DAN: But, yeah.

  • Wide shot.

  • And these-- we're going to differ on exactly what our definitions are too.

  • it's not a hard and fast rule.

  • These are just guidelines as filmmakers.

  • And we can communicate with each other quickly.

  • I say, hey, go set up the camera and give me a wide shot.

  • Right?

  • You know I'm expecting something along the lines of this.

  • Whereas if I said give me an extreme close-up,

  • you're going to reach for a different lens probably.

  • Or you're going to put the camera in a different position.

  • So it's all about just kind of fluidity of working quickly

  • together or visualizing your shots.

  • You might you might make a shot list and say

  • I want to go from the medium shot to the close-up up shot

  • to the extreme close-up.

  • And everybody knows what that progression

  • looks like as you're talking about it even if you don't know exactly

  • what the frame is going to look like.

  • This one?

  • AUDIENCE: Medium close-up.

  • DAN: Medium close-up.

  • Very good.

  • Yeah.

  • So we're above the waist by quite a bit.

  • We're at the chest to just over the head.

  • Somebody new.

  • How about someone from the internet.

  • What's this one?

  • Just unmute yourself and let me know.

  • Oh, man.

  • We got crickets on the internet tonight.

  • Kareem, what's this?

  • AUDIENCE: I'm seeing-- sorry.

  • Sorry.

  • Sorry.

  • I'm seeing medium wide shot from [? Jacqueline. ?]

  • DAN: Medium wide shot.

  • Scully, I like it.

  • That's what it is.

  • AUDIENCE: I'm saying from [? Jacqueline. ?]

  • DAN: Oh.

  • OK.

  • Great.

  • You're relaying from [? Jacqueline. ?] So yes.

  • This is a medium wide shot.

  • So we're cutting off the feet a little bit.

  • And this could be a little bit tighter.

  • I like this shot because they also call it the cowboy.

  • And the idea is you can see the guns get pulled.

  • Right?

  • So the cowboy shot from the holsters.

  • AUDIENCE: Also seeing a full shot.

  • DAN: It was close to a full shot.

  • Right?

  • Full shot would traditionally be feet to head.

  • We were cutting off the feet a little bit in the previous frame.

  • How about this one?

  • AUDIENCE: Medium shot.

  • DAN: Medium shot.

  • Yeah.

  • Right at the waist.

  • Right?

  • AUDIENCE: Extreme close-up.

  • DAN: Extreme close-up.

  • This one's obvious right?

  • But again, we're seeing what's being reflected in the eye

  • more so than what we're seeing--

  • well, I guess we're seeing the eye.

  • But a good chance to see what is being seen in this case.

  • A big white card in the lens.

  • So--

  • AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE].

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • That's true.

  • This one?

  • AUDIENCE: Full.

  • DAN: Full shot.

  • Yeah.

  • Head to toe.

  • Very good.

  • Another-- well, don't get confused by what lens we used.

  • Right?

  • This is all the size of the person.

  • I'm sorry.

  • You're saying?

  • AUDIENCE: Medium close-up.

  • DAN: Medium close-up.

  • Yeah.

  • How about this one?

  • AUDIENCE: Wide.

  • Medium wide.

  • Medium wide.

  • DAN: Medium wide.

  • Why?

  • [INTERPOSING VOICES]

  • DAN: But we're not talking about the lens,

  • we're talking about the shot size.

  • Right?

  • So these are both medium closeups.

  • Right?

  • From the chest to top of head.

  • Right?

  • From the chest the top of head.

  • It's the same shot but because we've added this element of a wide lens

  • they feel very different.

  • Right?

  • So much more important is all the elements

  • that make up your frame than just, what shot size is it?

  • Right.

  • When you're talking about intention.

  • All right.

  • So we're almost an hour into our lecture here.

  • We're next going to go into what is composition.

  • But I think this might actually be a good point

  • to take a quick five minute break.

  • Use the bathroom.

  • Work out any online audio issues we're having.

  • And we'll see you in about five minutes.

  • All right sorry to interrupt what's going on online here.

  • I just want to come back real quick.

  • So welcome back to the lecture.

  • There was some confusion about some of the stuff

  • that we talked about in the first half of the lecture.

  • And I just want to address focal length real quick.

  • So focal length is a measurement in the lens that describes

  • the distance in the lens itself.

  • But that's irrelevant.

  • And even the millimeters that we're talking about is irrelevant.

  • Because what you really need to do is put the lens on the camera

  • and look through it.

  • Because that'll give you a sense of, is the lens to have a wide field of view,

  • a normal field of view, or a telephoto field of view?

  • So are you seeing a lot of Information?

  • Is there distortion?

  • Is the space exaggerated?

  • Or is it normal?

  • Like, it's a spatial relationship similar to what

  • we see with the human eye?

  • Or do people overlap in the same way?

  • Or it's a telephoto where space is compressed

  • and we can no longer see what it is that-- or how far apart things are?

  • It's like Ian described earlier.

  • It's like taking a piece of paper and folding it in half.

  • You can move the distance back and forth and you

  • can't tell because it's just two flat planes that are compressed together.

  • So that's all we're really talking about.

  • If you take nothing else away just know that we describe focal length

  • in these three broad categories of wide, normal, and telephoto.

  • And what you really need to do is look down.

  • Put the lens on your camera and look down it

  • to see what you're actually looking at.

  • And the characteristics being expansion of space, compression of space,

  • or somewhere in between.

  • Does that make sense?

  • All right.

  • So onto composition.

  • And so I love this quote.

  • I just think it's a really good summation

  • of what it is that we're doing.

  • So composition selects and emphasizes elements such as size, shape, order,

  • dominance, hierarchy pattern, resonance, and discordance,

  • in ways that give meaning to things beyond being

  • photographed that goes beyond the simple-- this is really

  • the key moment here.

  • Forget my bumble there--

  • beyond the simple "here they are."

  • Right?

  • So this is showing an image with intention.

  • Showing your subject with intention and making decisions

  • about why you're putting it out there.

  • So that's what we're doing with composition is we are going beyond,

  • hey, I took a snapshot.

  • Doesn't this look cool?

  • And we're saying I'm intentionally showing you this image this way.

  • All right?

  • And so in our normal daily life, we see things in three dimensions.

  • Right?

  • Things have an X and a Y and a Z axis.

  • But we need to overcome this in a frame.

  • Because the still image is typically still just two dimensions.

  • And we need to overcome this by adding elements that give us depth.

  • That's a lot of what creating depth is all about.

  • And there are some tricks to this.

  • So for one, we create depth by having things in the foreground.

  • All right?

  • That's the things that are in front of your subject.

  • We have the middle ground of our image, which typically is the subject.

  • And then we have the background as well.

  • And we think about these three things separately as three different planes

  • in our image.

  • And how far away your foreground is from middle ground to your background

  • depends on your lens choice and how you put your image together.

  • But we'll talk about foreground, middle ground, and background elements

  • as we create depth in an image.

  • All right.

  • So here's an image.

  • Right?

  • We've got some foreground elements leading us into this image.

  • We've got our subject in the middle ground

  • and then our background falls nicely out of focus really highlighting

  • my son here.

  • IAN: The handsome young man.

  • DAN: The handsome young man.

  • Thank you.

  • So putting these elements together to build a strong frame.

  • And there are some basic design elements that go back to your art history days

  • that we use to put our frame together.

  • And these are line, shape, form, pattern, texture, and color.

  • There are others as well but these are the ones that we're going to focus on.

  • So let's look at line.

  • So lines are typically straight elements that can also be curved.

  • But they really guide your eye through a frame.

  • They give you an entry point or an exit point sometimes.

  • And they will move you around the frame depending on what direction

  • they're going in, how thick they are.

  • They'll give you flow.

  • But this is all to give you a sense of what you're looking at

  • and how you should look at it.

  • So let's look at an image that has a strong line in it.

  • So let's-- plainly, what is this?

  • What are we looking at?

  • AUDIENCE: A staircase.

  • DAN: A staircase.

  • But it's not how you would typically look at a staircase

  • but it's really interesting.

  • Right?

  • We're looking straight up at it.

  • And where does your eye enter the frame and where does your eye exit the frame?

  • AUDIENCE: Top right?

  • At the center.

  • DAN: Top right.

  • OK.

  • So I'm hearing a couple of things.

  • Some people say there they go right to the center.

  • My eye follows this line right in and kind of spirals up into the center

  • here.

  • So but it's a very strong thing that we see here

  • that moves us through the frame.

  • Right?

  • So a nice--

  • IAN: Are there any other elements besides the linear elements that guide

  • our eye to the center of the frame?

  • AUDIENCE: Light.

  • DAN: Light.

  • Yeah.

  • IAN: Yeah.

  • So it's a play between light and dark.

  • Absolutely.

  • Right?

  • So our eye is attracted to the brightest parts of the images often.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • All right.

  • And we'll put the metadata inside here just so

  • that we can have reference for it.

  • But we don't need to talk about it specifically.

  • How about this one?

  • How would you describe this frame?

  • All right.

  • It's much more abstract than what we just looked at.

  • Well, maybe not.

  • It's a very abstract frame.

  • Right?

  • We're not exactly sure what it is we're looking at.

  • We can presume that it's windows of a building.

  • And some say it's very busy.

  • It's very busy.

  • OK.

  • Maybe strong.

  • Right?

  • A lot of vertical lines especially when they're straight

  • can make a frame feel much stronger.

  • How about, where do your eyes enter and exit this frame?

  • AUDIENCE: Converges at the center pillar.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • Converges at the center.

  • Right?

  • All these lines converging.

  • You're naturally following them in.

  • Right?

  • And so maybe if you wanted to highlight what s at the center.

  • I don't know if in case.

  • This is not particularly attractive or nice

  • but you definitely drive your viewers eyes into the middle

  • by using these lines to move them around.

  • Right?

  • How about this one?

  • There's a lot of lines in this one.

  • This is a frame from Shutter Island, which is a movie.

  • What do you feel when you see this frame?

  • AUDIENCE: Trapped.

  • DAN: Trapped.

  • Enclosed.

  • Right?

  • Pinned in.

  • AUDIENCE: Ambiguity.

  • DAN: Say it a little louder.

  • AUDIENCE: Mystery.

  • DAN: Mystery.

  • OK.

  • Yeah.

  • Like, part of that shadow.

  • Right?

  • We don't know.

  • There's no light on these subjects.

  • We don't know what they're meeting about.

  • But all these lines add to this element of mystery.

  • Right?

  • And so this also is an easy way visually to communicate to the viewer.

  • And this is a video clip from Shutter Island as well.

  • And let's take a quick look at this.

  • [VIDEO PLAYBACK]

  • - This is Hopkins [INAUDIBLE].

  • [BUZZER]

  • - IDs, gentlemen.

  • [LIGHT BULB BUZZES]

  • [DOOR CREEKS]

  • [DOOR SLAMS SHUT]

  • Show your badges, gentlemen.

  • [END PLAYBACK]

  • DAN: Right?

  • So there's a lot of very straight and rigid elements to that.

  • A lot of strong vertical lines.

  • Right?

  • Even when we come inside here.

  • We think about where we could've put the camera

  • to get the shot of everybody entering.

  • Right?

  • We put it up above the walkway where we see this guard walking down

  • with a strong line come into the frame.

  • And even where the desk is where they're talking and checking in

  • is segmented off in it's a little corner of the frame.

  • It feels very different than if we had put the camera down on the ground level

  • and just showed the desk.

  • We would have lost a lot of the mystery, and intrigue, and feeling of being

  • penned in that this image offers us.

  • IAN: Yeah.

  • And there's a visual relationship to the idea of prison bars as well.

  • Right?

  • These shadows on the floor and these vertical moments and it all

  • builds to the sense of incarceration.

  • Right?

  • Absolutely.

  • DAN: Not the only way to use lines for sure.

  • But an effective way to quickly give you a sense of what this place looks

  • like if you're introducing the inside of this penitentiary or whatever it is.

  • It very quickly communicate to the audience what kind of space we're in.

  • All right.

  • Our next element is shape.

  • And so shape can be defined as just a 2D object in your frame.

  • Right?

  • A line is like a outline or a straight or curved line,

  • but a shape is actually a filled object that gives you a sense of its shape.

  • And these can be geometric like a typical square, triangle, circle, et

  • cetera.

  • Or you can have organic shapes which are like the outline of a person

  • or the outline of whatever.

  • But it's typically like you can think of a silhouette as a good example.

  • Where you just see the shape of something but you

  • have no sense of its depth.

  • Right?

  • And these can provide scale for you.

  • If an item repeated becomes a pattern and then

  • it's a good way to add interest.

  • And often you'll see this used as a positive or negative space.

  • Where you've got all black around a frame

  • and you're focused on one thing, or the opposite

  • where you've got the remainder of the space that's

  • left over outlining a positive

  • So here's an image with a very strong shape in it.

  • And so what does this do for us in this instance?

  • One, it makes it very interesting.

  • Right?

  • It gives us a frame around our image.

  • AUDIENCE: It isolates.

  • DAN: It isolates?

  • AUDIENCE: It isolates.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • Totally.

  • All right.

  • Here's a little technical info if you're interested.

  • Here's another shape.

  • What shape do we see in this one?

  • AUDIENCE: Organic.

  • DAN: An organic shape.

  • So it could be like, the organic shape is the outline of the person.

  • Right?

  • But we don't-- it's mostly silhouette.

  • It's almost like two different shapes on top

  • of each other, which is interesting.

  • I think the triangle is particularly interesting from the light.

  • Because there's nothing actually defining the edges of it.

  • It's just a beam of light in space.

  • So there's two different shapes for you.

  • More camera info.

  • Here's another one.

  • These are interesting shapes.

  • This one's got like some layers to it.

  • Right?

  • So in the foreground, we've got this tree.

  • We have no sense of depth of the tree.

  • But it does tell us a lot.

  • Having no detail in it almost highlights the shape of it in this case.

  • Right?

  • Get a sense that is this old weathered tree that's been dead for some time.

  • IAN: It's a beautiful use of atmospheric perspective

  • too, where you can see the colors muting and getting hazier

  • and hazier the further the image goes back.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • Absolutely.

  • AUDIENCE: The direction that we have combats the horizontal [INAUDIBLE]..

  • IAN: Yeah.

  • So there's a beautiful contrast there.

  • Exactly.

  • It draws your attention to it because it stands out as so much differently.

  • DAN: Right.

  • And you've even-- contrast I think is a good word to use here.

  • Contrast by definition being the lightest points in your frame

  • and the darkest points in your frame and the distance between them.

  • But we literally have a representation of contrast

  • here because the foreground of the frame is dark black.

  • Right?

  • And the top of the frame is more or less is the lightest part of the image.

  • And it's just interesting to see it laid out this way, where

  • we work our way almost like a gradient going from dark to light as well.

  • But some strong lines in here as well.

  • We've got the lines of the hills going across forming shapes themselves.

  • So as we look at images, you're not looking at one element

  • typically at a time.

  • You're looking at a combination of elements building on top of each other

  • to build our composition.

  • So more technical info.

  • How about this?

  • What is this object?

  • AUDIENCE: A shadow.

  • DAN: Shadow?

  • AUDIENCE: Coffee mug.

  • DAN: It's a coffee mug.

  • Right.

  • Which is interesting because you're seeing a circle

  • with a rectangle attached to it.

  • But the giveaway is this other shape down here.

  • Which we know as humans is a shadow because the light

  • is being cast across it.

  • And so it's interesting because we get the context

  • from the combination of the two shapes.

  • But we're not actually seeing any of the 3D depth of the object itself.

  • All right.

  • So which brings us to form.

  • Form is like shape but with another dimension.

  • So it's the coffee mug with some depth to it.

  • Right?

  • We'll be probably moving the camera around it

  • so that we can get a sense of what shape it is.

  • And this is often done with like light and shadow

  • because you'll see how light is cast across the surface of something

  • and reveals the form or the shape of it.

  • So you can think of things that are good examples of form,

  • or a sphere, or a cube.

  • Something that has depth to it.

  • And this can add dimensionality to your object or your frame.

  • And it really defines the physicality of an object.

  • So there's the promise coffee mug.

  • So instead of looking straight overhead, we've moved alongside it.

  • And this gradient that comes across the image

  • really helps you get a sense of what shape it is.

  • And even the light hitting back over here on the handle,

  • gives you a sense of just how rounded it is.

  • And so no longer do we have just a typical two dimensional circle

  • and coffee cup shadow.

  • We actually get the form of a coffee cup and you can kind of

  • imagine what it's like to pick it up in your hand.

  • How about this?

  • I love this image.

  • It's beautiful.

  • A simple piece of garlic.

  • Right?

  • But look at all the detail in it.

  • Right?

  • Look you can see where each--

  • I don't know.

  • What is a garlic--

  • IAN: Clove?

  • DAN: Clove.

  • Yeah.

  • Where all the cloves hug the body.

  • Right?

  • You can really see the waviness of it.

  • And you get a sense of what it would be like to pick it up.

  • And the paper on the outside has so much detail in it

  • that you get a real sense of it.

  • Right?

  • And so this is mostly done by shooting close up in this case

  • and having light that really exaggerates-- or exaggerates is

  • the wrong word.

  • But enhances,

  • IAN: Yeah.

  • Accentuate.

  • DAN: The shape of the image.

  • Yeah.

  • Accentuates the shape of the image.

  • Right?

  • But this is a good example of form.

  • Some more technical info.

  • I love food can I say?

  • So this is a pepper doing the same kind of thing.

  • And this is interesting because this is the only thing in the frame.

  • Right?

  • And just literally black behind it and the gray on the sides

  • are just for illustration purposes of where the frame itself ends.

  • Right?

  • But you really get a sense of the texture almost.

  • A good texture example.

  • But a sense of texture of the image and the natural organic waviness of it.

  • Same kind of thing.

  • Strawberry.

  • You really just want to bite into it.

  • You can get a sense of just how plump it is.

  • And you know the color does a nice little touch to it as well.

  • So that is form.

  • AUDIENCE: Question.

  • DAN: Yes.

  • AUDIENCE: The last two images, can you explain to me how they are not to be?

  • [INAUDIBLE]

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • So it is a flat image like you're saying.

  • But I would argue that it's the contours from the shadow that

  • give you a sense of the shape of it.

  • Right?

  • It's not-- this is flat.

  • It's not-- if we had moved the camera up a little bit

  • and got more of an angle of the top, you would have maybe

  • a better sense of the three dimension.

  • So we could certainly argue whether this is a good example or not.

  • AUDIENCE: i just don't want to get them confused in my head.

  • Because I was like, this one's almost But I can see the light and depth.

  • I see it very little but I get it.

  • DAN: Totally.

  • No.

  • I picked it just because you get the sense of the shape of it

  • on the outside.

  • But I totally take your point that it feels a little bit less

  • like a 3D image.

  • And it almost feels more like texture.

  • IAN: It's also the flat side of the pepper too.

  • Right?

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • IAN: So that it is sort of a plane that we're looking at.

  • But that the curves come out at just the edges and undulations of the pepper

  • skin.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • AUDIENCE: Can we go over this with the coffee cup again?

  • DAN: The garlic?

  • The coffee cup?

  • AUDIENCE: Yeah.

  • The 2D and the 3D.

  • Go back and forth.

  • DAN: Oh.

  • I can't jump quite because there's a slide in between.

  • AUDIENCE: So at first I was like this one's 3D maybe because of the shadow.

  • But then when you guys showed the 3D image, and I was like, I see it.

  • Because the real 3D image because you can see

  • this one's shape up top, so straight down.

  • But then you go to the 3D image you see that circle top part of the cup

  • is what gives it the most strong obvious [INAUDIBLE]..

  • DAN: This up here for you?

  • AUDIENCE: Yeah.

  • Exactly.

  • Yeah.

  • It was just flat and puzzling.

  • What was going to be the difference?

  • And then when I saw it I was like, wow.

  • DAN: Well, this one was meant to be a trick.

  • Right?

  • Because if you look at it your brain says, oh, this is a coffee cup.

  • I know what it looks like because I've seen a million coffee cups.

  • Right?

  • But really what you're looking at, I was trying

  • to accentuate that you're looking at a circle, a little rectangle, and then

  • the shape of a coffee cup.

  • But it's all very flat.

  • Right?

  • There's no depth to this image.

  • It's all-- it's flat shapes.

  • And your brain is tricking you and saying there's depth to it

  • because I know what a coffee cup looks like.

  • But in this one you actually get the shape in the form of it put together.

  • So you see how round it is from the top and from the light being

  • cast across it.

  • All right.

  • I'm moving ahead here.

  • All right.

  • Patterns.

  • So we talked about pattern a moment ago when

  • we talked about a repetition of shape.

  • But pattern is a really good way to get things to stand out as well.

  • And this is a common theme in making a strong image

  • and having good composition.

  • As your subject, you want to find a way to make

  • it stand out somehow or the opposite.

  • But typically using tricks like pattern, and strong lines, and shape,

  • and texture are going to be the things that

  • are you're going to put together and build

  • a frame that stands out and is strong.

  • All right.

  • And so pattern can bring harmony and comfort.

  • Or it can do the opposite and give you views of regular patterns

  • that can be chaotic.

  • So but as I just said it can also make contrasting elements stand out.

  • So here's some pattern.

  • All right?

  • So we know as humans that this is a series of windows on a wall.

  • Right?

  • But it's interesting because if you distill it down,

  • it's really a bunch of lines and rectangles.

  • And so the things that stand out, to me at least,

  • are these windows that are different.

  • Right.

  • So down here we've got this white box.

  • Right?

  • That you might not notice immediately at first.

  • Right?

  • And then you've got a couple of open windows as well.

  • How about this?

  • This is a beautiful image.

  • Right?

  • It's very abstract.

  • Well, what is it though?

  • AUDIENCE: A fence.

  • DAN: A fence.

  • Yeah.

  • A chain link fence.

  • But we're so close to it and we've made it so abstract.

  • And we get a good sense--

  • look at the form of it where you can see the curve of the fence

  • itself the light being cast across it.

  • You get a good sense of texture.

  • If you look at the kind of close up rust on it.

  • You really get a good sense of what it is while having

  • it be very abstract at the same time.

  • IAN: There's also a nice rhythm to it.

  • Right?

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • IAN: Just this repetition of visual elements.

  • I don't know.

  • It's in some ways calming.

  • But and it also has this nice linear effect going up

  • as well with the size of the links getting bigger and bigger.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • All right.

  • Here's another idea of pattern and contrast.

  • So I mean, it's right in the middle of the image

  • but this definitely jumps out at you.

  • And if it's a drain or whatever it is, but you

  • get this pattern with the one element that stands out because it's different.

  • So very strong contrasting element in here.

  • Some technical info.

  • And then texture.

  • This is the last of our elements that we're going to talk about.

  • But this is literally what the surface of the image

  • would feel like if you were to touch it.

  • Right?

  • Exactly what it sounds like.

  • Texture.

  • Right?

  • Is it smooth?

  • Is it rough?

  • Is it hard?

  • Is it bumpy?

  • Is it soft?

  • So we describe visually how something looks or feels.

  • And it is a good way to convey, almost time.

  • Right?

  • A sense of where-- is something new and shiny?

  • Is something old and kind of rotten?

  • Just like the fence we just looked at.

  • What texture does it have to it?

  • The rust clearly illustrates how long it's been sitting there.

  • So here's some interesting texture.

  • Right?

  • What are these?

  • AUDIENCE: Those are slot canyons in Utah and Arizona.

  • DAN: All right.

  • Slot canyons from Utah, Arizona.

  • Thank you.

  • Yes.

  • I don't actually know if that's where they are but beautiful.

  • I love this because it's like the texture of the walls

  • feels like a cross-section of time to me.

  • Right?

  • You can imagine how many years it took for the water

  • to carve its way through here.

  • And it really gives you a sense of just what

  • it would be like to run your hand along the side of it.

  • And you'll notice we've taken color away in this one too.

  • What does that do for our texture?

  • Well, it desaturates--

  • AUDIENCE: It puts a lot more emphasis on the texture.

  • The colors make it a very different image.

  • DAN: Exactly.

  • Right?

  • So when we take away the color it's one less thing

  • for our brains to focus on and get confused about

  • and it emphasizes the other things.

  • AUDIENCE: It also compliments [INAUDIBLE]..

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • And it also accentuates contrast.

  • Exactly.

  • How about this?

  • What would this tastes like to bite into?

  • Or not taste like, what texture would have if you bit into it?

  • And I love food.

  • AUDIENCE: Flaky.

  • DAN: Flaky.

  • Crumbly.

  • Yeah.

  • Exactly.

  • Right?

  • You can imagine just from this little giveaway down here in particular,

  • if you were to pick this up just how it would crumb apart in your hand.

  • And how crispy.

  • How much butter must actually be in it to make it crisp up like that?

  • And we're so close on it.

  • Like almost, what it is itself doesn't matter

  • but it's just a beautiful texture that's emphasized here.

  • Some technical info.

  • And what's this?

  • It's a pretty flat image here too.

  • Right?

  • We've got a bunch of just lines going across.

  • We've got our texture of our cross-section of time

  • yet again, where the water is kind of eroded over time.

  • And then this building is interesting because it's so flat.

  • There's The photographer decided to get very squared up to it

  • and there's no depth to it.

  • Right?

  • This is just a rectangle with a series of smaller rectangles in it,

  • and yet another rectangle for the roof.

  • AUDIENCE: There's also-- it looks like it was shot in the middle of the day

  • so the shadows don't help with that feeling of depth at all.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • That's interesting.

  • Right?

  • It was shot in the middle of the day.

  • So the sun being our primary light source

  • here was pretty straight overhead and there's very little shadow being cast.

  • So we've got a little bit.

  • Because we can see the texture on the wall here

  • but it's definitely a pretty flat image, which is accentuated by the sun

  • being on the straight overhead.

  • Right?

  • If we had shot this at the end of the day or early in the morning

  • we'd get a lot more shadow creeping across

  • and it would feel quite different.

  • IAN: And I think I think that's something

  • to consider too when you think about how to accentuate texture and photography.

  • The stucco wall is a good example.

  • That when the light is raking along the side of a flat plain or something,

  • you'll see the shadow of the texture of it.

  • And so waiting for the right moment to take a picture of something,

  • or lighting it in a way to sort of bring out that texture,

  • can really help accentuate these kinds of ideas.

  • Oh, color.

  • I totally forgot about color.

  • Right?

  • So we're not going to dwell on color too much in this class.

  • Hue being the color itself.

  • Value being how light or dark it is.

  • The intensity being the level of saturation.

  • So if something is either not saturated at all, it's black and white,

  • or if it's fully saturated, it's got all the color in it.

  • You could use color to convey emotions or enhance

  • the mood or feeling of an image.

  • But what we're going to focus on in this class

  • is three different elements of color.

  • Whether an image is warm, neutral, or cool,

  • are the three elements we're going to use.

  • So warm being on the orange side of things.

  • Like warm.

  • Inviting.

  • What you might expect.

  • And cool being on literally the cold end of the spectrum

  • where we have a lot more blues.

  • And neutral is somewhere in between where

  • when you calibrate your camera to your light source neutral is white, or gray,

  • or it doesn't have a cast either way.

  • Neither orange or blue.

  • All right.

  • So we'll talk about color temperature for that.

  • This is a very easy thing to change on your camera.

  • And we'll look at the menu in a second.

  • This is roughly the options you get.

  • So auto white balance being let your camera decide for you,

  • or you can be intentional and choose something.

  • So we have full sun, shadow, cloudy, overhead, tungsten light--

  • like an old-school light bulb, fluorescent light, flash--

  • which is the actual color temperature of the flash.

  • This is a custom mode right here, which is a pain in the butt

  • to set in most cameras.

  • And then the Kelvin value which is where you actually

  • pick a specific white point to set your camera to.

  • And we say Kelvin scale is this.

  • Right?

  • So we've got the warm end of the spectrum

  • and the cool end of the spectrum.

  • And we describe this in terms of Kelvin and how that scale stacks up

  • is something like a match or a candle.

  • It's going to be extremely orange or red as far as its wavelength

  • that the light the light bouncing off it emits.

  • And all the way up to its cool is a bright blue daylight at 10,000.

  • And so when you look at the presets on your camera,

  • the two typical ones that you might use are going to be that tungsten

  • or halogen bulb, which is at 3,200K.

  • And you don't need to know this number but we'll show you why it's handy.

  • And then the other one you might typically see is up here in this area,

  • it's 5,600K which is your typical daylight.

  • And that's what the sun icon is going to be.

  • So again, the little light bulb icon in your preset white balances is going

  • to be right here at 3,200K and your daylight is going to be 5,600K.

  • And that will calibrate your camera.

  • Right?

  • So if you want to go out in the middle of the day and shoot something and you

  • want it to be a neutral image-- you don't want it to have a warm cast

  • or a cool cast--

  • you might set your calibration of your white balance to somewhere right up

  • here in the 5,600K.

  • You might choose that sun icon.

  • And if you want to go out at sunrise or sunset

  • and you want to have it be neutral.

  • Again, you might want to shoot the sunset.

  • You might want it to be warm.

  • Right?

  • But if you want it to be more neutral you would choose a lower end

  • of the spectrum here such as the 3,200K.

  • And often if you want a neutral image you just

  • go look at the light sources that are around you.

  • If you're inside and there's a bunch of light bulbs in the ceiling

  • you're going to want to choose something like this.

  • And if you're outside in the daylight you're

  • going to want to choose somewhere up here in this spectrum

  • to make it a neutral image.

  • IAN: So I think the important thing to do to distill out of this

  • is that every light source that you come across

  • emits light at a specific color temperature somewhere on this scale.

  • And you can calibrate your camera to match that color temperature.

  • And if you do, the light will look neutral.

  • And if you don't, it will look either warm or cool

  • depending on how you calibrate your camera in relationship to that.

  • But do understand that different light sources have different color

  • temperatures.

  • And we can match cameras to those color temperatures or we can not match them.

  • And how we decide to not match them will define whether it looks warm or cool.

  • AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE].

  • IAN: Right.

  • Exactly.

  • So again, you don't need to know these numbers

  • but just know the lower the number the warmer end

  • of the spectrum we're going to be on.

  • And the higher the number, the cooler the calibration or your camera's

  • going to be.

  • And the effect of that is if you set your camera up here as a neutral point,

  • everything's actually going to be appear warmer because you're

  • looking back down the spectrum.

  • You can think of it that way.

  • And so if you're down here and you set your camera here,

  • everything's going to appear more blue because you're

  • looking back up the spectrum.

  • Does that make sense?

  • We're going to actually do an example of this

  • so it will hopefully make more sense.

  • But it's helpful as you look at this chart

  • to know that if you set your calibration down,

  • here you're looking up the spectrum, and if you set it up there

  • you're looking back.

  • Oh, and if you're shooting photos and you're shooting in RAW mode

  • this doesn't matter as much because this is something you can change.

  • We're not going to do too much RAW photography in this class.

  • We're going to go ahead and shoot JPEG.

  • So RAW photos you can change this later.

  • And if you're shooting JPEG or video, for the most part, it's baked in,

  • so you can't change this once you shoot it.

  • So it's very important if you're taking a JPEG photo

  • or shooting video to get this right as you shoot it.

  • All right.

  • So we're getting a little sleepy here.

  • We're going to put Ian up on the spot.

  • I'm going to put Max on the spot here as our videographer on camera here.

  • So let's go ahead and put this camera up on the screen.

  • So here is Ian.

  • And we're here in the cinema.

  • And maybe you've noticed if you come here in person,

  • what characteristic is the light here?

  • Well, sorry.

  • What color is it to your human eyes?

  • Right?

  • Our eyes are very versatile.

  • Right?

  • We don't typically see white as different colors

  • if we're inside and seeing tungsten lighter outside and seeing sunlight.

  • It all just looks natural to us.

  • Right?

  • But when you see in contrast-- so on the sides of the theater

  • here we have some warmer light.

  • Right?

  • Yeah.

  • Some tungsten light.

  • But did you notice--

  • I noticed this when we put the lights in.

  • It's super blue.

  • It's very cool light.

  • It looks neutral because we have calibrated the cameras to match.

  • And the reason that we've actually done this in this class is because the white

  • point of the TV that we're working with is 6,500K or Kelvin.

  • And the reason we want--

  • when you see us and when you see the image,

  • the cameras don't have this range that our eyes have.

  • So it sees one color or another.

  • So if we had set everything to the tungsten value or the warmer light,

  • the screen would appear incredibly blue.

  • So what we've done is we've calibrated the light and the cameras

  • to match the screen.

  • I'm losing everybody.

  • That was kind of a fun aside.

  • All right.

  • So let's make this more real.

  • So I brought this light panel here with us

  • and I'm going to ask the control room to dim the lights here in a second.

  • Or now.

  • And I'm going to turn this light on.

  • And so here we go.

  • Here is Ian.

  • We'll get the camera all focused up.

  • And Ian, is he warm, neutral, or cool?

  • AUDIENCE: Cool.

  • Cool

  • DAN: Cool?

  • OK.

  • And so what does that mean as far as how our camera is calibrated?

  • Like, so this light is probably calibrated around 6000 Kelvin right

  • now.

  • So if Ian is appearing cool is the Kelvin value

  • of the camera lower or higher?

  • AUDIENCE: Blue.

  • Lower.

  • DAN: It's calibrated lower because we're looking back up the spectrum.

  • Right?

  • So you know the light.

  • Let's see.

  • Does it actually have a number on it?

  • IAN: It does.

  • DAN: Hold on.

  • I got to look at it.

  • Oh, know.

  • It's just got a level.

  • It's all the way to daylight.

  • So all right.

  • Here is Ian.

  • I'm going to now turn the light color towards our tungsten light

  • or the warmer end of that spectrum and we can watch it change in real time.

  • All right.

  • Our cameras are fixed.

  • All right?

  • So that Ian feels very different right now.

  • Right?

  • This is warm, neutral, or cool?

  • Warm right?

  • Yeah.

  • Very warm.

  • It's very, very warm by comparison.

  • All right.

  • But we can effect this ourselves if we want to make our image warm, neutral,

  • or cool, by changing the camera.

  • So Max is our camera operator here.

  • What is your camera set to right now?

  • MAX: It's 5,600.

  • DAN: So it's 5,600K.

  • Right?

  • The same kind of preset for daylight.

  • That's the color of the light that we had in here.

  • Why don't you go ahead and set that to 3,200K or the tungsten value?

  • And we'll watch this change live.

  • So Max is adjusting the camera.

  • He's kind of scrolling.

  • Max, hit the advance button and actually dial it in.

  • It's more dramatic when it jumps.

  • MAX: 300--

  • DAN: 3,200.

  • Three, two, zero, zero.

  • All right?

  • And there we go.

  • And so now this worm light has turned what?

  • Warm, neutral, or cool?

  • AUDIENCE: Cool.

  • DAN: Cool.

  • Right?

  • IAN: But the light hasn't changed.

  • Right?

  • Nothing has changed about this light.

  • We haven't changed a dial or a setting on it.

  • But we did change the camera settings.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • And so now if I turn this back up to daylight.

  • All right?

  • Have you ever seen an image that's on the wrong white balance setting?

  • AUDIENCE: Yes.

  • DAN: Right?

  • This looks like that.

  • Right?

  • It's very, very cool.

  • IAN: This is very sad.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • But this could be used to effect.

  • Right?

  • What kind of emotion does this give you?

  • Ignore Ian's face.

  • But the cool cast alone connotes what?

  • AUDIENCE: Sadness.

  • DAN: Sadness.

  • Yeah.

  • Fear.

  • I mean--

  • AUDIENCE: VICE media.

  • DAN: Say it a little louder.

  • AUDIENCE: I feel like I'm watching a VICE documentary.

  • DAN: A VICE documentary.

  • OK.

  • So you're manipulating your audience though.

  • Right?

  • You want them to feel a certain way, you can

  • do that By calibrating your camera in a certain way

  • so that the color of the light is a certain color.

  • So let's do this somewhere in between now just

  • to prove that I'm not lying to you.

  • I'm going to set it right in the middle.

  • So let's call it about 4,500.

  • All right?

  • So this light source is now in the middle and if I don't touch the light,

  • but I ask max to turn his calibration to let's say 10,000.

  • What's that going to do for us?

  • MAX: 10,000K?

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • Dial it in and don't hit it yet.

  • What color?

  • AUDIENCE: Well, it should make him very warm.

  • MAX: OK.

  • DAN: Very warm.

  • OK.

  • Let's hit it, Max.

  • Bang.

  • Very warm.

  • All right.

  • For a light source that's somewhere in the middle of its range.

  • And at the other end of the spectrum, how low can you go?

  • I think it's like 1900 on that camera?

  • Bang.

  • We get a cool light source.

  • But that's really interesting how you can do this.

  • Right?

  • All right.

  • We can bring the lights back up I think.

  • Thank you, Ian.

  • We'll go back over to the slides here.

  • All right.

  • That was warm and cool with Ian.

  • Thank you.

  • AUDIENCE: So, Dan?

  • DAN: Yes.

  • AUDIENCE: What you were saying earlier if you

  • are shooting in RAW none of this would matter because you would

  • be able to change it from warm to cool.

  • DAN: Exactly.

  • AUDIENCE: [INAUDIBLE] but if we're shooting in JPEG

  • and we got the cool we wouldn't be able to.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • Exactly.

  • So if you're more technical and you're shooting your camera mode in actual RAW

  • capture, there's a setting in your menu that says RAW.

  • And there's also a setting for you JPEG.

  • Usually, you can capture both, but you might choose one or the other.

  • AUDIENCE: Can you describe just what RAW is?

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • AUDIENCE: Just in a nutshell?

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • So if you're shooting RAW, what you're doing

  • is you're sensor is getting all of the light sent into it.

  • And if you're shooting JPEG, it makes a decision

  • and formulates an image out of it.

  • If you're shooting RAW, your sensor takes all of that data

  • and it's just stores it.

  • Think of it as like a big blob that you can later figure out

  • what you want it to look like and form it

  • into a JPEG at another point in time.

  • The way I like to think about it is that you, when you're looking at RAW data,

  • you don't actually see the RAW image but you see a JPEG representation of it.

  • So if you're looking in Lightroom, you're

  • getting a representation at any given moment of what the RAW data looks like.

  • It's almost like a window into that RAW data.

  • And as you move the sliders around one of the sliders that you can move

  • is color temperature.

  • And so you can make the image warm or cool, or warmer or cooler.

  • In Lightroom, if you're shooting RAW, That's

  • something you get for free if you're shooting in the raw format.

  • But if you're shooting JPEG, this is something you can modify--

  • IAN: Not for free.

  • DAN: What's the trade-off?

  • IAN: The trade-off is size.

  • DAN: OK.

  • Fair.

  • Fair.

  • So there's always a trade-off.

  • There's no free lunch.

  • Thank you, Ian.

  • All right.

  • So with RAW, you're storing a lot more data

  • because you're not throwing anything away.

  • You're saving all of those bits that comprise your image

  • and then later you can make that decision of what color temperature you

  • want it to be.

  • In this day and age, when we have so much space available

  • maybe it's a really minor trade-off to make.

  • But back in the day when you had to pay a lot of money

  • for every gigabyte on your memory card, this was a much bigger deal.

  • Question?

  • AUDIENCE: And when Max is making his adjustments

  • what is the camera doing physically?

  • Just changing some baseline value [INAUDIBLE]??

  • DAN: It's the process in the sensor that actually

  • decides what to show you the image as.

  • Because the sensor is seeing just light values bouncing into it.

  • And so when you see a representation of it you're setting the camera to say,

  • OK, I want to have the sensitivity of the brightness be set here.

  • I want the white point of the camera to be set here with my white balance.

  • And so it's the camera is making-- you're making those decisions when

  • you set the camera technically.

  • AUDIENCE: Is [INAUDIBLE].

  • The color white, the tone of the color white is predetermined basically?

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • I mean, It's not--

  • I mean, I would describe it as the neutral point of your camera Right?

  • So you determine what is neutrals.

  • And which means like if you're looking at a white element

  • the element will appear white versus having a warm or cool cast to it.

  • So when you set the color temperature or white balance on your camera

  • you're deciding what is white, for all intents and purposes.

  • And then the camera will shift everything else based on that.

  • IAN: And I think that's a bit of why it can be confusing sometimes.

  • Because conventionally we talk about it as white balance.

  • But really what we're talking about is an image.

  • If you focused on an image with no color in it, it would have no color in it.

  • Right?

  • And so you imagine like a grey card or a neutral subject that when you

  • photographed it, it would have no color cast at all to it.

  • OK?

  • But because a neutral object is reflecting light.

  • If that light has a color cast that strikes a neutral object--

  • right?

  • The neutral object will reflect some aspect of that color.

  • OK so what we're doing with the camera is saying OK,

  • the light has this color please subtract this color from the image

  • so that this neutral item looks neutral.

  • OK?

  • And so you can manipulate the camera controls

  • to have it add or subtract different elements of color

  • to the light that's going back.

  • DAN: And actually I meant to take a moment here and actually pull up

  • a camera example.

  • So Max, one, if you didn't say your white balance back

  • please get it back to 5,600.

  • And then two, if you can give me a close-up up shot on this camera.

  • I just want to show you-- actually, we can possibly do it with the screen

  • here.

  • Let's push a button down here.

  • Turn this on.

  • So if you're like, this is great.

  • You're talking about changing the white balance of my camera

  • but where do we actually do that?

  • Let me show you.

  • All right.

  • So this is a Canon camera.

  • Other brands will vary slightly.

  • But on a Canon camera in the red shooting menu, you can come down here.

  • I pressed the menu button to get here.

  • And then you can choose white balance.

  • And right now I'm preset to that Kelvin value.

  • And what the icons are telling us is that knob--

  • is this top knob here-- and as I turn that I'm

  • going to adjust that Kelvin value.

  • Right?

  • So if I wanted to lower my Kelvin value I just dial it down.

  • I can go to 3,200.

  • I can go lower but if I set it to 3,200 this is now

  • the same as that light bulb preset.

  • Right?

  • Or I can dial it up back to 5,600.

  • And this is the same as the sun preset.

  • But the beauty of understanding the numbers on the Kelvin scale

  • are that you can go somewhere in between.

  • Right?

  • And if you're not sure what it's going to do simply push this button.

  • Look down look at your screen and watch what happens to your image.

  • Does it get warmer or does it get cooler?

  • Right.

  • You don't have to understand exactly which way you're going

  • to go to just turn the knob and see it.

  • Right?

  • You'll see am I getting a warmer cast or am I getting a cooler cast?

  • AUDIENCE: I'm curious.

  • Does this, I guess, list white balances that we

  • have available as presets from the sun all the way to the flash,

  • is that in warmest to coolest?

  • DAN: No.

  • It's not.

  • Because the warmest one is going to be the light bulb.

  • So I don't know why it's in this order.

  • It does seem silly that it wouldn't be from warm to cool.

  • But the menu we are looking at is not set that way.

  • So maybe you should go into camera design

  • because that would be very smart.

  • But if we now-- let me actually put this into a live view mode.

  • And we can see if all goes well there's the side of the stage.

  • And so we can see that I'm still preset in my white balance.

  • I can push the button here.

  • And as I dial this around I can't actually

  • change the Kelvin value on this camera in live view

  • but I can change, hopefully--

  • there's auto, daylight.

  • So if you can see this hopefully nice and close up, we've got the daylight.

  • And I'm going to press it again, it keeps timing out.

  • There's shade.

  • It's pretty close.

  • Cloudy.

  • I don't know the exact values for these things so it's up to you

  • if you want to use them.

  • Just look down here in your screen and make the decision.

  • Right?

  • But this one's going to feel quite a bit cooler.

  • Right?

  • Because this is that 3,200K value because we're on the tungsten light

  • bulb.

  • Right?

  • Fluorescent is going to be somewhere in between.

  • Flash is going to make everything quite warm.

  • Because flash I think is around 10,000K.

  • Yeah.

  • But really again, the two-- if I can say there are two that you should

  • understand it's the daylight-- wow.

  • This is wacky.

  • It's the-- Oh, man.

  • It's the light bulb.

  • Ian, can you point for me?

  • IAN: Yes.

  • DAN: OK.

  • It's the light bulb, which is 3,200K.

  • And it's the sun which is 5,600K.

  • Right?

  • And then you can turn it into the Kelvin mode which is literally

  • that K. You can click this and you can choose

  • what to set it to if you want to be more advanced.

  • But simply jumping between those two presets

  • should be able to give you warm or cool.

  • IAN: And so your camera that you have may not allow you

  • to set the individual Kelvin values.

  • Maybe it only has presets.

  • Or maybe it only has an auto white balance functionality.

  • And if that's true, then knowing the presets, which ones to use.

  • Whether the one for daylight or one for tungsten will be really helpful.

  • And if you have to use an auto white balancing feature,

  • then focusing on a chroma neutral subject

  • or at worst case scenario a white subject

  • that you want to be neutral that's being hit by the light in your scene,

  • is a good way to do that.

  • OK?

  • But ultimately being able to set the Kelvin value incrementally

  • is incredibly helpful to control exactly how your images are going to look.

  • AUDIENCE: Is the change for the let's say

  • the digital file of the image the same whether you're doing it with a camera

  • [INAUDIBLE] preset basically, and the [INAUDIBLE]..

  • IAN: Well.

  • It depends on the mode you shoot in.

  • If you are, say, shooting in RAW, then you

  • have the ability to make changes later in Lightroom.

  • So maybe--

  • DAN: Which would be the same as doing it in camera.

  • IAN: Yes.

  • DAN: There's no trade-off there.

  • As far as--

  • IAN: But at the cost of say having to save a lot of data.

  • You save all this RAW data and then you decide how it's going to look later.

  • Whereas again, when we're talking about trade-offs.

  • When you have a camera you shoot JPEG mode, you decide in the moment

  • how it will look.

  • But that's it.

  • It's baked in and trying to remove that color cast,

  • usually degrades the image in a way that it's

  • no longer usable, or unacceptable for most situations.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • And I will say like software is getting much better at this.

  • The first time I did a demo of editing in Lightroom

  • and I used a JPEG it tore apart.

  • The color didn't look good.

  • But I did it, I think last year or the year before,

  • and it was a pretty phenomenal how good of a job

  • the algorithms are getting that make this change for you.

  • So it's not to say that there's no flexibility.

  • If you edit your JPEG photos in something

  • like Lightroom or other software.

  • But you definitely have the most flexibility

  • if you're actually shooting it RAW.

  • AUDIENCE: But I guess it's a much more conscious decision when

  • you shoot the picture.

  • Do it at that moment.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • And if you're comfortable that's we want to emphasize in this class,

  • is this is how you always used to have to do it.

  • Right?

  • You didn't have this magic ability to change the sensor data or that piece

  • of film back in the old days.

  • IAN: You loaded film and that was it.

  • You had 36 pictures at a specific ISO and a specific color temperature.

  • Right?

  • Film was daylight or tungsten and that was it.

  • Right?

  • And then you chose an ISO and that was it.

  • And you could change film canisters and things like that,

  • but you'd have to run out your camera and take all 36 pictures.

  • DAN: So we're lucky to have RAW at our fingertips

  • but I think it's really important as we start

  • to grow as photographers to understand the ability to change this frame.

  • And the assignment around this will help with that

  • because it's something you can play with as adding a warmer a cool cast to it.

  • All right.

  • So we're running out of time quickly here.

  • So we'll start to move a little bit more quickly as a recap.

  • Daylight is set to what Kelvin value?

  • AUDIENCE: 56.

  • DAN: 5,600?

  • Exactly.

  • What is this image?

  • Warm, neutral, or cool?

  • AUDIENCE: Cool.

  • DAN: All right.

  • And why?

  • Right?

  • We know it's a blue sky regardless because we're humans and have seen sky.

  • But what is it that tells you that this is cool?

  • AUDIENCE: Everything's blue.

  • DAN: Everything's blue.

  • And specifically, I think it's really handy

  • if you're unsure of what color cast it has look at the white elements

  • or the lighter elements in it.

  • And if you literally have a tool like a digital color meter

  • tool that's built into Macs and PCs, you can

  • hover over the highlight elements of your frame

  • and see does it come up as blue, or does it come up as orange,

  • or does it come up as a white?

  • And that'll help you determine if you're looking

  • at a warm, a neutral, or a cool image.

  • All right.

  • And so what was the camera set to for this cool image?

  • AUDIENCE: Warm.

  • DAN: Warm.

  • Right?

  • 3,200K.

  • Or the equivalent of the tungsten light bulb.

  • OK?

  • How about this?

  • Same image.

  • I used Lightroom to modify this so it's the same image.

  • You get color for free.

  • But I export a JPEGs which we're looking at now.

  • Warm, neutral, or cool?

  • AUDIENCE: Neutral.

  • DAN: Pretty neutral.

  • Right?

  • OK.

  • So the daylight is 5,600K.

  • What was the camera set to?

  • AUDIENCE: 4,000.

  • DAN: I'm sorry.

  • 4,000?

  • It's actually the same.

  • Right?

  • Because the image is neutral.

  • Right?

  • I've set the calibration of my camera.

  • I've calibrated it to the same thing as my light source.

  • My light source I know is 5,600K, so to get a neutral image I set my camera

  • to the exact same thing.

  • And this is the opposite.

  • Warm cast.

  • Right?

  • So if that is 5,600K what was the camera set to?

  • AUDIENCE: Something higher.

  • DAN: Something higher.

  • Right.

  • 10,000.

  • You got it, Ralph.

  • And so that gives us this warm effect.

  • And so this is something you really need to think about

  • if you're shooting in JPEG and need to capture it in the moment.

  • You don't have much wiggle room later if you're

  • shooting an RAW the trade-off is space.

  • Right?

  • But then you can make this decision later.

  • All right.

  • So you can use these two effects.

  • We've talked about what kind of emotions a warm cast or a cool cast

  • will give you.

  • And I came across this image on the T back in 2017,

  • and this is really like, to use Ian's term,

  • a ham-fisted approach to using color.

  • Right?

  • So what we've got is a mother presumably kissing the boo-boo

  • off her daughter, or a nurse maybe.

  • And inside where the kiss is happening it's

  • this warm glow, and on the outside, we've got this blue fall-off.

  • Like she's kissing the boo-boo away so.

  • Just one way that you can use this, but I

  • thought this was a silly heavy-handed example that

  • is a good example of how it can be used to effect even if too strongly.

  • So bringing things back to composition.

  • There's a bunch of other elements of composition

  • that you should take into account--

  • which we're going to move through quickly--

  • when you're building your frame.

  • We talked about those classic design elements.

  • But there's a whole lot more that goes into building a frame.

  • And the three things I think that are the most important

  • that we'll talk about in the remainder of our time

  • are perspective, balance, and contrast.

  • So perspective is literally where is the camera placed?

  • Is it on the level as our subject?

  • Is it below our subject?

  • Or is it above our subject?

  • Right?

  • They all feel different but you need to make a choice when you place the camera

  • because you have to put somewhere.

  • So and if you get high enough, you start to get even more interesting things

  • that happen potentially.

  • They can happen normally if you're at eye height.

  • But I guess with perspective too, where are most images taken that you see?

  • AUDIENCE: Eye height.

  • DAN: Eye height.

  • Right?

  • Most people take their camera out.

  • They either do this and click on their phone or they put it up to their eye

  • and they click like this.

  • Right?

  • When you see images like that they feel a bit more like-- to use that catch

  • phrase, pedestrian.

  • Right?

  • It's just very-- yeah.

  • Pedestrian.

  • Right?

  • But if you change that.

  • If you as a photographer take a knee and get low or climb up on something--

  • a ladder or a stool or even higher--

  • and get something.

  • It just like it makes your frame more interesting

  • because it's an angle that we don't typically

  • see when we're looking at images.

  • Right?

  • And especially if there's some interesting paint on the ground.

  • It gets really interesting.

  • Some technical info.

  • How about this one?

  • All right.

  • This one's a trick.

  • The image actually looks like this.

  • Right?

  • Which is fascinating.

  • All the photographer did was--

  • the houses presumably are straight because you don't

  • want to live in a house that's crooked.

  • But simply by turning the camera and leveling with a street and this truck

  • that was pointed uphill.

  • Right?

  • This turns into a really interesting image.

  • All right.

  • So an easy way to make your photo more interesting, change your perspective.

  • Simple as that.

  • If you're if you're taking out your phone if you're

  • doing this thing for one more second, either go higher or go lower

  • and just see what it looks like.

  • Maybe this is the right height to do it at but consider the alternatives.

  • A balance.

  • So literally everything in your frame is going to have kind of a weight to it.

  • And is the right side of your frame and the left side of your frame

  • weighted the same?

  • Right?

  • So in this photo from Wes Anderson, he shoots everything very straight

  • on and in a balanced way.

  • There's a whole bunch more images over here.

  • There's fewer over here.

  • But we've got this one bigger element up top to balance it out.

  • And just this idea of an equal weight, or not equal weight to your frame.

  • Right?

  • This can show itself in symmetry.

  • So here's an image that's very symmetrical.

  • And so this image is very well balanced because both sides of the frame

  • are basically the same thing.

  • Whereas a frame that is unbalanced might feel very different.

  • And this feels very comfortable, very easy to look at.

  • I don't have an unbalanced frame next.

  • I should have.

  • I'm sorry.

  • But an unbalanced frame can make you feel much more uncomfortable.

  • So in balance of your frame one thing we want

  • to consider when shooting human subjects is the headroom, which

  • is literally like how much space is there

  • from the top of the head to the top of the frame.

  • Or is there a lot?

  • Is there a little?

  • We can use this to effect.

  • So in this image, the subject is cut off.

  • Right?

  • Which might be a little bit disjointed for us

  • or make us feel more uncomfortable.

  • Right?

  • And when used in combination with everything else

  • this is a fairly wide-angle lens.

  • And we get a little bit of exaggeration.

  • His nose looks pretty big compared to the rest of his face.

  • With the head room cut off--

  • no headroom up here--

  • it just feels a bit more uncomfortable.

  • And so this is used to effect.

  • Here's a couple of frames.

  • On the left a frame for Mission Impossible.

  • We've got Alec Baldwin feeling important, for lack of a better term.

  • And on the right from The King's Speech, we have Colin Firth here.

  • How does he feel?

  • AUDIENCE: Lost.

  • DAN: Lost.

  • Right?

  • What makes you say that?

  • Is it like

  • AUDIENCE: Because he's hanging at the bottom of the screen.

  • DAN: He's hanging at the bottom.

  • He's has a ton of headroom.

  • Right?

  • So it's a very unbalanced frame in that sense.

  • Whereas Alec Baldwin, the camera angle's right at his height.

  • Right?

  • Or just slightly below him even.

  • Right?

  • Looking up at him, giving him some power.

  • And the correct amount of space on the side of the frame.

  • He's got the right amount of space over his head.

  • So it's a very strong confident character right there.

  • Where right on the flip side much less so.

  • So noseroom or leadroom is the idea that the gaze

  • of the person from where they're looking should

  • affect where they sit in the frame.

  • Are they center?

  • Are they to the side?

  • Right?

  • So this character is looking completely profile to the camera.

  • So they're weighted all the way to the side of the frame.

  • And that just feels more comfortable for us as viewers

  • because it's the convention that we're used to seeing.

  • So what happens when we change this?

  • Well, hold on.

  • Hold that thought.

  • When the character is looking center we tend to center them up.

  • Right?

  • And again it's just for a good balance to the frame.

  • And whereas if they're looking slightly to the side

  • they're typically put slightly on the side of the frame.

  • So she's weighted slightly right here but she's looking to the left.

  • Right?

  • So we're just balancing out the frame.

  • So the more extreme your subject is looking typically--

  • and this is very relevant in video in particular--

  • the more you might weight them to the side of the frame.

  • So all the way profile you might push them

  • all the way to the side of your frame.

  • And if they're looking at the camera you might want to center them up.

  • Does this makes sense?

  • All right.

  • Sorry.

  • We're moving quickly.

  • I want to get through all this.

  • So noseroom or leadroom.

  • Right?

  • So again, conversation between two people.

  • We have appropriate noseroom here on Leo in The Wolf of Wall Street.

  • Confident character but same thing.

  • And we look back at the King's speech.

  • This character's looking to the side and there's very little noseroom

  • or leadroom for him.

  • Right?

  • We've got all this extra space over here.

  • Which is a bit more uncomfortable for us as viewers

  • because it's not the convention we're used to seeing.

  • All right?

  • How about the color cast of this image while we're here?

  • Warm, neutral, or cool?

  • AUDIENCE: Cool.

  • Cool.

  • DAN: Cool right?

  • Look at those white elements, the highlights.

  • They're all blue.

  • Look at the side of his face.

  • It's got a blue cast to it.

  • Right?

  • It feels sad.

  • Uncomfortable more.

  • All right.

  • Just a few guidelines for you as you're starting to build your frames.

  • The rule of thirds.

  • Anybody know off hand the definition for the rule of thirds?

  • All right I'll spoil it because we're running out of time.

  • If you broke your frame up.

  • That this white box was your frame and you broke it up with these lines

  • to make the image into thirds, you should have your action fall

  • along these lines.

  • And where the lines meet at these kind of nodal points

  • is where you want to put your strongest action.

  • Right?

  • And so what that's going to do is give you balance

  • because you're putting something on one of these thirds it's going to balance--

  • I guess-- But that's not true.

  • It depends on where you place all the elements in your frame.

  • Let's look at some examples.

  • This will make it even better.

  • So we have some sheep here.

  • And if we look at the rule of thirds here.

  • We break up our image.

  • Right?

  • This vertical sign basically falls on the third.

  • And the sheep falls on this third over here.

  • And our horizon line even, one of the edges falls on the third.

  • And the result of that, I think, is that it's a pretty strong image.

  • Right?

  • It's got a pretty clear subject.

  • It's got a little bit of foreground element.

  • In this case are subject it really is at the edge of the foreground, start

  • of the middle ground.

  • Right?

  • We've got more space behind it and in the background way in the back.

  • All right?

  • Another image.

  • A good use of thirds.

  • I don't have the grid to overlay on this.

  • But what's interesting about the decision made here

  • is that our subjects are kind of on the top there with this one.

  • Right?

  • But it still feels comfortable to look at.

  • It's not uncomfortable.

  • IAN: Well, I think too if you look at the past two images

  • the horizon line actually falls on one of the third lines

  • and not directly bisecting the image.

  • Right?

  • And I think that that's something that maybe people often

  • do when they just pull up a phone and snap some snapshot something.

  • The horizon line sort of just bisects the middle of the image.

  • And you can use it to great effect if you shift it up or shift it down.

  • You know?

  • Just as it is.

  • Just a natural helpful moment to create some difference in weight

  • between the two edges of the frame.

  • DAN: All right.

  • Some technical info for that one.

  • And just a note.

  • As you're going about framing an image, look at the edges of your frame right

  • before you press the shutter.

  • Because you'll find something you might notice like this.

  • Right?

  • What stands out in this image?

  • AUDIENCE: She has a pole standing out of her head.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • She's got a pole sticking out of her head.

  • Right?

  • And that's silly.

  • It ruins the image if you had spent all this time composing the shot

  • and then you get back later and realize that, oh, man,

  • something was sticking out.

  • Or there's somebody in the background staring deadpan into the camera.

  • Right?

  • You wish you had caught that in the moment.

  • And with digital tools, you can certainly manipulate all of this.

  • But give your edges of your frame a scan right

  • before you push the shutter because it'll

  • help you catch little things like that.

  • Some technical info.

  • Here's another one.

  • Couple of examples.

  • Right?

  • So the one on the left has presumably done street photography style

  • where the camera is just kind of held and placed

  • and snapped and cut off the head.

  • But this one on the right.

  • If somebody had spent this time building this frame of this church

  • and all of a sudden cut off the very top of it.

  • It feels like a mistake to us as an audience looking at this image.

  • And a simple scan of the edge of the frame

  • would have allowed us to catch that.

  • Right?

  • Instead of getting back at and be like, oh,

  • I should have just tilted my camera up a little bit more.

  • Just to hammer home the point of contrast.

  • Contrast is a really strong way to make your image strong.

  • Making the subject pop is really easy to do when you use contrast.

  • Whether that's pattern where you have a repetition with the one that stands out

  • that's different.

  • Or whether it's color where you've got all muted color

  • around this bright color.

  • Or whether it's depth of field where your subject is in sharp focus

  • and everything else is in soft focus.

  • Right?

  • These are all contrasting elements that we're

  • choosing to make a strong focal point for our subject.

  • Right?

  • Same thing here.

  • This is literally like if we think of contrast

  • is the whitest parts of our frame in the darkest parts of our frame,

  • and the range in between is the contrast of our image.

  • Right?

  • This mirrors that beautifully.

  • Where we have the darkest parts of our image

  • right up against the lightest parts of our image.

  • And the silhouette here is a reflection of that and makes for a strong frame.

  • In addition to just all of the other compositional elements in this,

  • we've got lines.

  • We've got shape.

  • Pattern.

  • Some technical info.

  • So as you're building your frame you want to figure out

  • what is your focal point going to be.

  • Right?

  • Where you want to put your subject and how you want to make them stand out.

  • And so the ways to put your frame together to achieve this

  • are to follow the rules of thirds, or break it if you're more comfortable.

  • But if you're uncomfortable as a photographer, and as one

  • of your first times going out to shoot.

  • And actually building the image more than that just, here.

  • Here's the image.

  • Here's a snapshot I took.

  • If you're actually going to compose your frame, the rule of thirds

  • is a fine place to start.

  • Use lines.

  • Use brightness.

  • Use depth of field and use negative space and all of the design elements

  • that we've talked about in this lecture to put the frame together

  • and really draw attention to your subject.

  • All right.

  • Depth of field here and talk more on next time

  • when we get to actual exposure we can show you how to control your camera

  • and make controlled up the field.

  • Compositional triangles.

  • So another just quick takeaway.

  • Right?

  • Is that there's a hidden triangle in this image which

  • shows you exactly what the most important point in the frame is.

  • Right?

  • There's a triangle.

  • Right?

  • And so this we can imagine is like an arrow

  • that draws your attention right to the most important part of the frame.

  • Right?

  • Again, this is just a guideline that you can

  • use if you're trying to figure out how to compose your image.

  • It's not a hard and fast rule.

  • But the more you look around the more you see these.

  • So in the Princess Bride, they're walking through a murky swamp

  • and there's this very deep cut which draws your attention right

  • to the location we're walking through.

  • And how hard it must be awful to walk on this like muddy straggly mess.

  • Right?

  • And there's no question who the most important person in this frame

  • is from the same movie.

  • Right?

  • All eyes right up to the crown.

  • And that's more than just this triangle.

  • But there's this definitive hierarchy that's been set up for us.

  • You know who is the most important person in the frame

  • just because not only is he taller than everybody else

  • but we've got one of the lightest parts on the crown

  • up there to draw your attention to as well.

  • All right.

  • So it all comes down to this question I think.

  • What is it that you want to say about your subject?

  • We talked about this when we were doing storytelling in our first lecture.

  • But when you know whose story it is and what story you're trying to tell.

  • That's when you take all of these compositional elements

  • and you put them together in a way that says Ian is my villain.

  • I want to vilify him.

  • I'm going to give him some cold light, some shadow.

  • I'm going to shoot a high angle on him and make it look very sinister.

  • Right?

  • Or Ian is my hero.

  • I'm going to give him some nice flattering light.

  • I'm going to shoot him on a long lens and I'm going to--

  • I don't know--

  • IAN: Make me look handsome.

  • DAN: Yeah.

  • Make him look handsome.

  • So it's all about taking these elements and putting them together

  • and to really be intentional about the frame that you're building.

  • So we are just a couple of minutes overtime

  • here so I'm going to end the formal lecture here,

  • but say thank you for joining us and we'll talk more

  • about this kind of stuff next week.

DAN: All right.

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