Now it feels like forever, since we've put together a cheap Badgett gaming PC here on this channel from start to finish.

So in today's video, I'm going to be doing just that without further ado.

Let's get into it.

I'll talk to you about each individual component.

Why I chose it on at the individual will be benchmarking it with a few modern titles to see how well it holds up.

So let's get into it and begin the video.

So I've decided to base this build around the first generation core five process, sir, It's probably not the best value for money system I've ever put together, but it is cheap, and I wanted to build something for a change.

Instead of upgrading a pre built this socket.

11 56 57 50 features four cause four threads and is very cheap these days.

Unlike modern I five desktop CP use, the first generation ones weren't all quad cause and this is important to remember if you're looking for an older, I serious CPU yourself to accommodate the process that I managed to find a cheap ex office machine motherboard pulled from an old del T 1500 workstation.

Hurry in boards can cost less, but it's important to remember that they won't always fit in after market cases.

I made sure this one did.

Before buying, though I had to remove the Del heat sink brace from the underside of the board so that I could fit a standard 11 56 fan on here.

This was easy enough to do as it was only held on with adhesive tape.

Speaking of heat sinks, I decided to opt for an aftermarket Arctic 11 assembly.

I could have purchased the stock one, but this one should keep our CPU even cooler.

And it actually cost me less than a generic intel.

One would've.

So it was the obvious choice here.

This combo has been finished off with eight gigabytes of generic DDR three memory.

Before putting this thing together.

Let's look at the storage choices.

I've gone for a CZ well on the power supply in case instead of just buying a hard drive, I also found a very reasonably priced 32 gig SST that I'll be using solely for the operating system in this case, Windows 10 pro now because I plan on selling this on afterwards.

Hopefully, for a small profit, I opted for a nearly new case.

The cooler Master Master box lights.

One thing I've learned from selling the occasional PC on eBay is that a nice case will make a difference to your final sale price.

Most modern cases have USB three front ports, but this one has one of each.

And if you want to use an older mother board like I did, that doesn't have the necessary accommodating slots.

Don't worry, because you can pick up a very cheap adapter.

The power supply is another course S E x 5 50 which I'm sure you've seen enough of by now.

I've said it before and I'll say it again.

A decent P S.

U is worth spending a little more money on on because I know these are good.

If I have the chance to buy one, I always will.

Their modular, too.

So that should help keep the cable was a little neater, as you only have to plug in what you need now for my favorite part, the graphics card, the HD 78 70 is one of my all time favorites.

So when I found a good deal on this one, I just couldn't resist.

I love the reference style cooler with the blower fan, too, even if it is a little louder than aftermarket options.

Not to mention the colors match the case on the S S D, which is pretty cool.

I'm happy to see this one in such great condition, too.

It'll work just fine on our 550 What PS you requiring 26 pin connectors with our components gathered.

It's time to put this machine together, so let's get that done now before seeing how well it can play games to try and make this video enjoyable for all your longtime viewers out there as well as those of you new to PC building, I'll be assembling this machine in a step by step fashion.

Feel free to skip ahead if you just want to see the benchmarks.

The first thing I like to do is install the power supply.

This is bottom mounted on, Of course, Modular said the unit and cables won't get in the way as we assemble the rest of the build.

This is held in place with four screws.

If you've never built a PC before, don't worry, because it's all nearly that simple.

We'll put that to the side for a moment and put together the motherboard combo.

The first thing to do is install the process.

Sir.

Just make sure you line the gold arrow in the corner up with the white, marking around the socket on the motherboard before lifting their attention.

Arm sitting the process of gently in there and pushing the arm back down.

Next up is the memory.

Each stick doesn't have to be the same brand, but I would advise getting matching sticks if you can, Just to ensure that any possibility of error is at its minimum.

You can find some pretty good deals on used DDR three kits these days and to install, just open the clips at the end of each slot and push them until they click now for the heat sink.

If you have a second hand when you have to apply a pea sized lump of thermal compound to the process of first like so but because I bought a new one, it comes with a layer of decent compound already, and it fixes to the bald, just like a normal intel.

Heat sink.

Using the push the pins until they click system.

There's a lot off pushing and clicking in PC building.

Don't forget to plug the CPU fan into the motherboard to before installing the motherboard in the system.

Be sure to fit the back plate in place again.

Push it in until it clicks.

Because I opted for a nearly new case, I also got some goodies included, like these cable ties and motherboard standoffs.

Make sure you screw these into the holes inside of the case, first ensuring that they match up with the holes in the motherboard.

The board sits on these to prevent it from touching the bare metal and shorting out.

With those in place, we can install the motherboard by sitting in on the standoffs and screwing it into place as we connect all the wires up.

I'm not going to talk too much about cable management as it may not be a big concern of yours if it's your first build, but I will be needing things up off camera.

This is more about showing you where everything goes and hopefully inspiring any of you aspiring system builders out there to give it a go for yourselves.

First of all, the four pin connector from the power supply connects to the square for pin connector, usually located in the top left hand corner off your motherboard.

The 24 pin power connector can also be attached here, using the good old push till it clicks method.

Once that scene, we're pretty much halfway done.

The other cables attached to the case pretty much self explanatory on line up with their labeled counterparts on the Bold.

If they're not labeled, the pin layout will always be a dead giveaway.

The HD audio cable goes to the audio ports on the Bold and the U.

S B cable goes to you guessed it.

The USB connector.

The hardest and most fiddly bit of a PC build is probably the front panel cables.

These little individual cables will always likely connect in a different order, depending on your motherboard.

But all you have to do is to Google your boards model name, followed by the words front panel connector layout to find what you're after.

It should then be easy enough to find out what goes where Now it's time to install the storage.

Each case is different, of course, but in this case yet it I had to remove this little enclosure here so that I could slot the it hard drive and SSD in place.

There were also a few sneaky screws in the bottom, which also had to be taken out a few screws later, and I had both e, h, d, d and SST in place, and I then reinstalled the enclosure before connecting these two up.

If, unlike me, you have a non modular power supply, then all the cables you need will be pre attached.

But if you have a modular unit like mine, then it's time to push in.

Click the peripheral cable into the unit and attach the set of connectors through the other end off the hard drive and solid state drive.

Once the necessary set of power cables are connected, be sure to connect.

The Saturday to cable was usually in red to any drives, with the other end's attaching to the motherboard.

Saturday, two cables will come included with any new board but can be bought online separately for pennies.

Once again, we're back to my favorite part, the graphics card.

This time we're installing it again.

This involves the pushin click method, but be sure to remove as many of these little rib protector gate things is necessary to accommodate the width of your GP you and connect any required power connectors from the power supply unit to the card.

With that, we're just about finished.

One final thing, though, connect any system fans like the black one at the back of our case here is well to the matching motherboard head of whether this be three or four pin so well, I don't think this is the best system I've put together in terms of value for money.

I'd really wanted to build a system, as I haven't done so in what feels like forever.

Hopefully, the little mini bill tutorial will help any of you new PC builders out as well.

But now, in regards to performance is time to check out how this thing handles some modern games, as well as a quick Cinna bench ar 15 multi corps test.

Now I tested Cinna bench, first of all because I wanted to check out the role.

CPU performance almost isn't as powerful as some modern budget quad cores like the rise in 3 1200 for example, which is perfectly reasonable considering the age of the CPU.

It will still put up a pretty good fight, and I have to say that for editing in Premiere Pro something that is very CPU intensive, this handled it like an absolute champ, and I edited this entire video on this machine.

Let's jump into a few games as well to see how it performs and how these two components worked together.

Well, the I five bottleneck, the 78 70 or will it be a completely different situation with the 78 70 bottle necking the CPU?

Let's find out.

First of all, I started off with Battlefield One and my intentions with this billboard to be able to run games at 10.

A teepee with sort of mediums are high settings on dso off get somewhere near 60 frames per second.

Battlefield one was the perfect example of the dream performance I was aiming for with this machine on.

It maintained a pretty solid close to 60 frames per second most of the time at medium height settings during this opening level in rise of the Tomb Raider again, that's a little harder to run.

Once again, we chose the medium preset, stuck a couple of the settings on high, and I did see a few issues with the benchmark run in terms of stuttering.

But I combine the average 1% and 10.1% low figures with a couple of hours of gameplay as well, during which the performance was quite a bit better.

Dirt for one of my favorite modern races, medium settings.

Once again, with a couple of things set too high at full HD on game performed flawlessly.

I was able to complete not only the solo race here during the opening tutorial, but a couple of multi competitive events as well, and still retain a pretty solid overall frame rate throughout my half of our game play period.

With this game now, the performative Overwatch will depend on the map that you're playing on.

But here on this specific map, forgive me.

I can't quite remember the name of the game performed very well, once again with a mix of high and medium settings, with the game set to 100% resolution scaling, this means it was running at an untouched 10 80 p, and I have to say I was very impressed with the performance.

The CPU and GPU actually seem pretty evenly paired, but I wouldn't recommend using anything higher than a 78 70 with an eye 57 50 though something more modern like Aji ticks 10 50 T I, for example, would be absolutely fine.

CS goes again.

That relies more on CPU power, and here it performed very well, although this benchmark run didn't last too long because I have a habit of getting eliminated every 30 seconds.

But as you can hopefully see here, the performance of this game was pretty good on this build.

Now we fall out for the GPU, actually held our high five process of back, which was quite interesting.

So in this case, you probably could get away with using a slightly better graphics card, though there will be a few instances of stutter.

As you explore the open world, feel free to turn down the settings on a configuration similar to this one in some of those busier and Maur hardware intensive areas like Diamond City, for example.

And finally, in fortnight, you should have no problem with sustaining a smooth 60 frames per second throughout the entirety of any online match.

As I did so here once again, the GPU was actually the limiting factor, which was quite surprising.

So it may be fair to ignore my earlier statement of Don't pair anything more powerful than a 78 70 with this high five.

I only know I'm pretty happy with the price I paid for all of these components.

If you'd like to see more games being tested out on this build, please let me know because I'll try to put together a list of 20 or 30 games, run through them and let you see what this could do in a variety of other titles as well.

As for this video, though, I hope you've enjoyed it.

And I hope you've enjoyed what is probably the first budget build in a very long time.

So if you did leave a light on it down below, leave a dislike.