All of the housing on the back and the front have been changed into clear plastic.

Looks pretty sweet.

There are a couple videos on YouTube showing kind of the same thing, but none of them are

super detailed on how to accomplish this process.

I'll be selling these kits down in the video description, right below this video.

There are a couple different colors, not only clear, there's atomic purple, there's green,

there's red...all of them transparent, which is exactly what we're trying to accomplish.

Remember though, as with all of these projects, you attempt this at your own risk.

I would say if you're serious about this, make sure you watch the video all the way

through from start to finish to make sure it's something that you can actually accomplish.

If you know what you're doing with a screw driver though, and you're good at organizing

your screws, everything should come out fine.

Let's get started.

[Intro]

I'm going to start with the left joy-con since both joy-cons are slightly different.

Then I'll show the right joy-con and end up with the console itself.

At the end I'll have a successful, fully functioning, clear Nintendo Switch to play after I'm all

done.

This whole process took me about an hour to accomplish, so go slow and keep your screws

organized.

There are 4 tri-point screws along the back of the left joy-con.

I'll have all the tools and stuff linked with the clear shells in the video description.

Then the whole plastic back unsnaps from the front and folds open.

Be careful not to stress those ribbon cables along the sides, if you rip those, your controllers

will not doc or charge anymore.

The 525 milliamp hour battery comes out next; no adhesive or anything holding it down.

It just has it's own little plastic holder.

There are two thin wires going down to the plug on the motherboard.

I pulled mine out pretty gently because once again, this is a fragile process and I don't

want to break anything.

There are 3 more screws holding down the plastic battery holder, I'll unscrew those and unlatch

the ribbon for the trigger button.

Then I'll also disconnect the joy-con rail ribbons.

Each of these have their own locking flap as well, but the latches are different for

each ribbon, so watch out for that.

Luckily there's only one screw holding the rail in place.

So I'll remove that and set it off to the side, and pull out the little black latching

button that allows the rails to disconnect from the switch body.

While I have the button here, I'll toss it into the clear counterpart.

It has a little notch on one side so it will only fit in the correct way.

I'll set the joy-con rail into place along that same clear plastic piece, with it's one

little screw.

And we're done – with the first part anyway.

Now the left trigger is a little bit of a pain to disconnect and even more so to reconnect,

but I'll walk you through it.

There's a little plastic pin that needs to be decompressed underneath the trigger so

that it will let go of the black plastic.

I'll press that in and then grab the trigger.

There are 2 squirrelly little springs that are here that you're going to hate in a few

seconds.

So keep track of them for now.

The electronic trigger switch is held down by one screw.

I'll remove that and very gently transfer it over onto the clear counterpart.

Remember, never bend, kink, or tear these ribbon cables; they are very fragile.

There is one Phillips screw holding that button in place, and then I'll put the two little

springs over the circular guiding pegs on either side of that tiny board, before trying

to get the trigger button and top over them.

The trigger has it's own pegs for the springs.

It's tough to keep the spring straight and get the trigger clipped in at the same time.

But, it's a good idea to make sure it's done correctly the first time so you won't have

to come back and fix it later.

It can be done.

The rest of this joy-con body is pretty straightforward.

The joystick is going to come out next.

Pretty simple construction with two screws on either corner of the square body and then

one little ribbon connector attached to the motherboard.

This also has a black locking latch that needs to be lifted up before the joystick can come

out.

Up at the top of the board we have 3 more screws.

These screws hold the boards tight for the top buttons.

They'll come out as one piece after the ribbon cables detach from the larger motherboard

below it.

The top L button can come off at this point too.

Notice that it also has a spring attached to it.

This is easier to work with, but still, don't lose it.

Grab the little minus button from the controller, along with it's inner rubber cushion and set

those off to the side in an organized fashion.

There are only two screws left holding this motherboard in place.

Remove those and the motherboard comes loose.

Now you can disconnect the rumble pack from the motherboard, but I found it easier to

just leave it intact since it has a pretty fragile connector.

I don't want to mess with it if I don't have to.

The rumble pack has it's own adhesive and a pretty tight slot holding it in place, but

my tweezers provide enough leverage to get it out.

Now that the motherboard and vibrator are out, all the buttons can come loose.

These little units are designed to only go in one hole, so don't worry too much about

losing track of their orientation.

As I set the arrow buttons into the clear housing, you can see that the little notches

are in different shapes for each button.

Clever construction on Nintendo's part.

I could be using the colored buttons that come with the clear kit, but I prefer the

gray ones personally.

After the buttons are set in place, the button padding goes back on top.

Same with the square button below it.

And finally we get to start putting the beautiful looking electronics back into the clear plastic.

The rumble pack tag goes in first since I left it attached to the motherboard.

And the motherboard has those two screws holding it to the plastic.

Remember, if you kept your screws organized, the assembly is super easy.

Now I'm not really sure what this little black spacer is around the joy-con joystick, but

I'm going to transfer it over anyway just in case it's important.

The joystick itself can poke it's head through the clear plastic hole and then get the two

screws holding it down on either corner before trying to get the ribbon cable plugged in.

I'll make sure the latch is up so it can receive the ribbon and then tuck it in place, locking

it back down again.

There is an unfortunate lack of Lego connectors inside these things, but the ribbons work

just fine.

I just, you know, miss saying “Lego” sometimes.

The top buttons get set into place along with the minus button.

It's shaped in a way that will only let you set it in one direction, and then the smaller

circuit boards get folded into their slots.

I'll zoom in a bit here so you can see exactly how they're situated with those 3 screws.

And finally, remember that spring you weren't supposed to lose?

Get that situated on top with that L button, then we can attached the trigger and battery

housing back over the motherboard, first getting the trigger ribbon clipped in.

Just like with the rest of the ribbons, each of them will have their own little latch,

including these side joy-con rails that we were working on earlier.

It's really starting to come together now and looking pretty fantastic.

The battery bracket has 3 of it's own screws.

As long as you get the motherboard screws in the right spot previously, this won't be

too big of a hassle.

I'll use my plastic pry tool to clip in the battery.

Metal is a bad idea when working with anything connected to power.

Setting the battery in place allows me to close up the whole contraption, positioning

the rails and trigger in a way that the whole thing can fold completely shut all the way

around the outside.

Get the 4 Y shaped screws back into the rear housing and it is one fantastic looking piece

of hardware; it even works.

At this time it would be a good idea to make sure all your buttons work before getting

everything officially screwed in.

Also keep that in mind as we start working with the right joy-con.

This one has some special requirements to stay functional, but I'll walk you through

those.

The right joy-con has the same 4 Y screws on the back.

I'll set those off to the side in an organized fashion, and then open it up like a little

book making sure there is zero stress on those rail ribbons.

After it's open I'll gently lift out the battery and then give a gentle pull on the connector

so it will come away from the motherboard.

The little antenna's the next thing to get out of the way.

It's got one little circular connection like we've seen inside of a lot of cell phones.

The battery bracket and right trigger is held in place by 3 Phillips head screws.

Once those are out, the bracket can lift up and out of the way.

It is kind of at a weird angle.

This joy-con is built a little bit different than the other one, but I'm still able to

lift the ribbon latch and free it from the controller.

And since I have it out right now, I might as well make this section clear to stay organized.

It's got the same little plastic niblets holding the trigger in place as the other joy-con.

Once that trigger button has popped off, we see the same little electronic switch with

it's one little Phillips head screw holding it in place.

I'll pop that off and immediately transfer it over to the clear counterpart so that one

little screw doesn't get lost.

The two springs for the triggers are still here.

I'll plop those in the little slots and gently line the trigger over the top of the springs.

This is probably one of the trickiest parts of this project.

Making sure the springs stay in their grooves while clipping in the trigger is like defeating

the final boss in a video game.

It is possible though.

Back inside the right joy-con again, the rail does need to come off.

I'll unlatch each of the two ribbon cables and then immediately transfer the rail onto

the clear section.

This part is the same as the other rail with the one little screw up top lifting off the

rail and then transferring over the black latch button and reassembling the whole thing

with the one little screw.

Pretty simple process once it's lined up right.

It should fit naturally without any force needed.

The joystick is next on our list of things to remove.

It's got one ribbon cable and then 2 Phillips head screws on either side of the joystick.

I'll wiggle that out of the hole and then remove the two screws that are still in the

motherboard.

Now this motherboard is a bit more complex.

It has two more ribbons at the bottom that we need to worry about, but once those are

disconnected, I can lift the motherboard out along with the rumble motor.

The infrared sensor at the bottom of the joy-con was one of those ribbons, along with whatever

this square thing is; if you know, let me know in the comments.

It's probably some kind of antenna.

This joy-con also has a black buffer between the joystick and the front plastic.

I'll move that over to the clear piece.

It's got little tabs to help it line up in the correct spot.

Then I'll start moving over some of the buttons.

These are just like the other joy-con where they can only go in one particular location.

And each button has a little rubber cushion over the top that allows it to decompress

every time it's pressed.

It's nice that they use rubber instead of something mechanical that might break – rubber

lasts a lot longer.

The last button to move over is a little plus sign up at the top of the controller, and

it's little rubber shield.

I'm going to continue using the original buttons from my switch, but there are always the colored

options that you see at the top of the screen.

To make things easier for myself, I'm going to connect the square looking ribbon cable

and infrared sensors before tucking the motherboard back into the clear frame.

Since these cables are a little short, it's easier to attach them first.

The rumble motor is still attached as well, so I'll plop the whole dangle contraption

into the clear plastic at the same time.

At this point in the game I'm going to make sure all the buttons can be pressed and that

none of them are obstructed.

From this point on, if you screw anything in too tight, it might make the buttons unpushable,