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- This is the only anti aging
and moisturizing cream
that works according
to scientists
and has a scientific consensus behind it.
I've been doing a lot of research on the beauty industry,
including finishing this great science book about your skin,
the remarkable life of the skin.
And I've realized there's a lot
of misinformation out there about products.
So we're gonna sit down
with my partner Mitch because he didn't really know
or use skin creams
to see if he can actually pick
and choose which ones are more effective
and teach you how to actually read the ingredients lists
of these beauty products
to understand from a scientific perspective,
which ones work.
So starting in your early 20s,
you lose roughly 1% of your collagen per year.
- Okay, so like a lot of it is gone.
- Yeah when we are in our 30s collagen is the protein
that gives your skin strength
and plumpness
and things that in our society we deem as good as
this collagen disappears,
that's when you get wrinkles.
- I'm not that aware of wrinkles,
but I feel like after this video,
that's all I'm gonna think about.
I have one here and I have two here.
Like I sleep on my face like that,
like literally like.
- Every morning you wake up next to me,
its literally like you know when someone's so dehydrated,
like somehow
in the night you become the most dehydrated person
on the planet.
And you wake up with like lines everywhere like,
(Mitch whooshes)
and I'm just what now you have wrinkles.
(Mitch laughs)
- I'm literally trying
to make a beauty video about being snatched
and you're calling out my most vulnerable part of the day.
In order to understand skin cream,
you must first understand the largest organ
in your body your skin.
The hypodermis holds the sweat glands,
fat cells and the base of hair follicles.
Next we have the dermis which contains collagen fibers
of which we will be talking a lot about today,
and the sebaceous gland which secretes natural oils.
Next we have the epidermis which starts
with the stratum basale right
on top of the dermis consisting
of stem cells that continuously divide,
creating your skin cells known as keratinocytes.
Next is the stratum spinosum where the keratinocytes link up
then it is the stratum granulosum
where the keratinocytes flaten,
lose their fats
and nucleus then reach the outermost layer
of the skin the stratum corneum which is now,
the effectively dead cells
at the outermost layer of your skin.
The epidermis is so thin,
only one millimeter but it is your main barrier
to the outside world.
And a lot of the BS from skincare products is because
this layer is actually so effective
at keeping the active ingredients
in creams out of your body.
So I'm gonna bring out two creams
at a time you are gonna try
and decipher which one you think is better.
- I'm just trying to figure out which ones
are like more BS versus which one
has like maybe more legitimacy.
- claims slash ingredients that would actually help my skin.
- Yes, exactly.
- My skin okay, now my BS detector is on.
- So your first two creams are right here,
we have the London
and rant Collagen Moisturizer. Oh my god I've always wanted
to do the beauty thing what do they do?
(Narrator mumbles)
or the Bluelene Revolutionary Anti-aging Cream
with methylene blue.
- Okay.
- Okay.
- Uuuuh probably a sign
that it's worse for you,
and I've never heard
of methylene blue or,
oryza sativa it's like isn't
that a strain of marijuana. (Narrator laughs)
- Rice bran oil,
my honest like evaluation if I was
to see these both
and guess which is either more legit or,
better for you would be this one.
(bell rings)
- If you ever find a cream
that has collagen in it,
or a face mask with collagen in it,
that you're topically applying to your skin,
it's 100% BS.
(Mitch quips)
- Collagen...
- isnt that what everything says?.
- A lot of things it's crazy it's actually,
look at
this one gold collagen so there's literally flakes of gold
in this,
24 Karat Eye Cream this is called
with collagen.
There's a lot of things
that claim collagen to help with wrinkles,
but the molecule itself is too large
to actually go through your epidermis,
what we were talking about earlier the keratinocytes,
it does not get through.
So anything with collagen,
do not ever buy.
When you read the ingredients
of this methylene blue one.
It has glycerin pretty high up.
Glycerin is a really important molecule
for moisturizing your face.
It actually keeps the fluids
in and on your face.
So if you are looking for a moisturizer
and you want a cheap one
for example look
at the ingredients list if glycerin is high up
that will be a pretty good moisturizer
this has glycerin at ingredient number three
this has glycerin at ingredient number like six Not only is
it like BS with the collagen it's not even
that moisturizing it's a much worse cream bye London
and Grant.
(Mitch giggles)
its like we broke our floor
- It's claiming anti aging
in its actual packaging,
from methylene blue.
There's no scientific claims behind methylene blue helping
with anti aging
at all that's purely a tactic
to get you to buy this also not only
that but moisturizer in
and of itself is not anti aging.
There's no scientific claims behind moisturizer helping
with any anti aging when it comes
to wrinkles or photo aging of your skin.
So next you have the Bluelene versus
this Pure Vitamin C La Roche Posay.
- Okay I thought it was a lacquer
and I was like they have a face cream?
- So this one retails
at 59 Canadian dollars is more expensive.
This is a fancy fancy thing.
- In big writing anti-wrinkle concentrate,
renovating anti- oxidant.
- Okay, so..
- Renovating?
- We're going in,
we're renovating the face, aaah!
- ewww!
- Looks like (indistinct).
Ahhh!
- Ewwh
- So it...
- Uuuh!
- It really smells like foundation to me,
like liquid foundation.
- Oh, I love the smell.
- There's something about
this first one that I just like really liked?
And do we know like vitamin C is
that the vitamin we want in our skin?
This is what these companies need to do.
It should be regulated,
they need to say what that is doing.
I honestly think I'm gonna stick
with the Bluelene just cause I liked it more.
And I feel like these claims
and these terms are not as clear
to me and it just seems like they're saying things
that would convince someone that doesn't know.
- Okay, you're right.
(Mitch celebrates)
- This is still the superior cream. Good job..
- Hashtag not sponsored, though.
- So antioxidants are something
that are claimed on a lot of products
that people are buying,
there is not a scientific consensus
that antioxidants will help with anti aging.
- Topically.
- Topically applying vitamin C is an anti-oxidant.
And what is important to know,
is that as you read in here,
the second ingredient bran oil also has two types
of vitamin E in it,
which are anti-oxidants.
So this is claiming mostly only
that it has vitamin C,
which is an anti-oxidant.
This cream has more moisturizing properties.
And actually,
a second ingredient is a vitamin E anti-oxidant.
- So it's already got one that's claiming without even..
- exactly without having to write it all over.
- It's being subtle.
- Yeah,
- Its like, "Dah I'm not gonna brag."
- It's kind of funny because they're advertising
this methylene blue thing,
which is actually the BS part of this.
So now I want to get into the idea
of claims and language
on this packaging,
you're allowed to say a lot more misleading things
on skin creams than you are on safe food.
It's just it's just a less regulated industry.
So here it says dermatologist tested for safety.
Okay, so first of all,
everything is tested for safety.
Like that's a weird thing
that they're claiming.
But if something says dermatologically tested,
that just means a dermatologist had
to test it,
it doesn't mean that the results were saying
that it was doing anything,
it doesn't actually mean
that like it's essentially a good cream.
That's a really interesting sentence you can put
on packaging,
and it's it's meaningless.
- I hate that.
- I know,
it's crazy and clinically proven.
There's no regulation
on what that clinical study could be.
Technically,
you could make a cream,
you could go to any clinic,
you could test it on one person,
your best friend,
and then you could write clinically proven.
- What?
- yes, there's no regulating body
to say if something is clinically proven or not.
They're not technically lying.
- Sneaky.
- And even here,
that's it says a renowned antioxidant,
which we now know
with something called Neurosensine.
And then when you look it up,
it's a chemical that this company has created.
And there's not really any clear information
on what exactly it is.
And there's definitely no clear scientific information
that it does anything.
(narrator chuckles)
Active ingredient,
is another important one active ingredient,
again, it sounds really great to your ears.
But that could only be in vitro
that could be in a petri dish that could be on rats.
It doesn't have to ever be on humans,
active ingredient dermatologically tested,
clinically proven.
All of these things are essentially debunked.
Don't allow those words to trick you.
And again,
we're gonna be learning how
to read the ingredients list
to get the best moisturizer
and anti aging cream for you.
(upbeat music)
So number three,
you have,
(Mitch laughs)
- the Protect and Perfect Intent.
- Number three is number seven.
- No.7. Yes,
that is the brand I guess.
- Oh yeah, actually,
I kind of like this branding.
I like the kind
of similar they're sort of simple,
single tone now that it's out.
It's like this feels like pretty cheap.
So water is not even the first one..
- What's the first?
- Dimethicone.
- Okay,
so dimethicone is essentially silicone it's an additive
to make the cream cream.
Yeah. - it just makes it like thick?
- Yeah it doesn't do anything good or bad.
- Aqua, I kinda like that they said aqua instead
of water.
- Yeah,
(narrator chuckles)
I know.
- Glycerin, okay.
- Phenoxyethanol is in tons of creams. It is a preservative.
A lot of these things are preservatives
and additives. - So it doesn't like rot.
- Exactly preservatives,
it doesn't rot
and doesn't get bacteria on it.
There's some pretty important ingredients in there.
- That's what moisturizer does
to my hands.
(narrator mumbles)
- Really morus alba leaf extract.
- So a lot of plant additives like aloe,
honey for example.
Those are natural humectant so those are the types
of ingredients that will moisturize your skin.
- I see like ethylparaben
and I know that some creams
and things that are like paraben free.
So I don't know if that's like a negative against this.
one ingredient is retinyl palmitate.
- ooh!
- And I only know this because I've kind
of heard you alluding to retinol.
I don't know if it's the same as retinol as an ingredient
that is good.
I'm gonna try.
Just alittle squeeze.
- Its something like $30.
- Ooh! its really coming out.
Not much of a smell.
- They all look like semen.
- Again, this one's kind of like gluey.
I actually still prefer this one because
Like this kind
of substance more like it feels more like a real cream
and it doesn't have too much of a scent.
But I'm gonna go with number seven.
- So you chose No.7 over Bluelene.
- Yes.
- Correct.
(Mitch jubilates). - You are doing so good.
Interesting thing about this is
that the last two ingredients,
are total palmitoyl polypeptide.
So these are fatty chain acids attached to proteins.
And studies are now showing
that they can actually go past your epidermis
to your dermis and stimulate collagen creation.
So those are like an interesting new sort
of like cutting edge science,
- Cool.
- not enough to really claim that much,
but interesting that it's in this,
there is also has moisturizing properties.
And it has retinyl palmitate,
which has been proven
to increase collagen
but it does thin your skin should only be applied at night.
And it's not actually saying here how much
of that ingredient is
in there which is kind
of interesting
and will lead to our final cream.
So against our No.7 Intense Protect
and Perfect,
intense advanced.
We have this SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3% pure retinol,
which is interesting,
as you were saying you don't know how much retinol is
in here. But you do in this one?
- Because I know you have this now.
- Yes, I do after my research. Yeah.
- It seems more simplified.
It's not trying to claim so many different things so far as,
I can see refining night cream,
retinol.
And it's just like a very specific number.
Maybe it's not claiming like oh,
to have this vitamin,
this vitamin,
but it's like,
here's a product that does a single thing.
And I think that's really interesting.
- Retinol and retinoic acid is what we're going
to talk about right now,
because it is the only face cream
for anti aging that there is a scientific consensus about.
This is retinol 0.3% this is something
that you can buy over the counter,
you don't need a prescription for.
Retinoic acid is something you need a prescription for.
So these are all derivatives of vitamin A.
And this has all been proven
to go through your epidermis,
which we talked about earlier
to your dermis
and stimulate collagen growth.
It also creates new blood vessels,
it's it creates angiogenesis in your face.
- Wow.
- So it's actually quite intense.
And it's interesting because it's like obviously the one
that affects your face intensely
from a biological perspective is the one
that's actually doing something.
If you want to,
retinol you can buy right now you could buy this product,
it's quite expensive.
And I think they're starting
to realize I can charge a lot
for this because it does technically work.
So if you're in your 20s
and you're already starting
to lose your collagen,
you could just buy this retinol 0.3% start there.
But if you wanna work your way up
to a stronger,
more intense concentration,
you do need a dermatologist.
And that's because it does irritate your skin,
it can create redness,
and retinoic acid
in and of itself is toxic when you consume
it by mouth to rats.
And therefore they have actually like fallen
under like regulating bodies as dangerous.
That's another reason why you need
to go to a dermatologist.
- Thinking that it's gonna irritate my skin
and make it read make me sensitive
to the sun and all these things.
- Yeah, why does you have to apply this
at night don't apply during the day because,
you will more likely to get sunburn.
- It makes me a little afraid. - Well, You kind of should be,
so one thing that's important
and they make it clear
on the packaging.
And based on the scientific evidence of this.
You just start low.
You want to start it
at 0.1% start once a week,
work your way up to two times a week work.
- Why do you have that one? - I don't know.
I thought I could handle it. (laughter)
- I'd apply it at night with a moisturizer. That's something
that they say is worth doing because,
it does dry out your skin.
And also light, literal light,
can deactivate the retinol,
like it's a very sensitive molecule.
It's and it does make your skin feel weird.
It does make my red ass skin turn more red.
- I'm freaked out by that. - Yeah,
- I have to be totally honest.
- no that's totally fair to be freaked out by it.
It means you don't care all
that much about this anti aging..
- Or I'm just anxiety ridden
and scared to like do - yeah,
- and that could potentially not be like just 100% safe.
- Yeah, okay, but I mean,
it's the only one that works. - Okay, wow.
- Yeah cast them all out. Well, I will say,
and this is no shade to anyone.
I just want to put it out there
that also there's nothing wrong with wrinkles.
It's nothing wrong
with not wanting them there's nothing wrong
with having them.
I don't believe that there's any medical reason
that wrinkles are bad.
- No, they're not.
They're actually quite beautiful
in like indications of a wise life,
yeah, wrinkles are maybe more
of like a sign of the inevitability of death.
(narrator laughs)
- And in this industry,
I just like support it's necessary.
- I don't know start my drive right now. In summary,
don't fall for products that claim that collagen is going
to do anything to Increase Collagen in your skin.
It won't even get absorbed. Don't fall for sentences
that just dermatologically tested clinically proven or,
active ingredients make sure
that there's humectants high on the ingredient list such as,
glycerin is a very obvious one, or natural ones like aloe
and honey,
if the ingredients have anti-oxidants,
palmitoyl polypeptides
and retinol in them.
you're checking all the boxes for any scientific sort
of understanding,
for anti aging but retinol,
is the only ingredient
that is scientifically proven,
to be absorbed and to stimulate collagen
within your skin when applied topically. That is our video
but I just want
to say one more real quick Important cream
and that is sunscreen.
Because UVA radiation is actually,
what breaks down the collagen.
So staying out of the Sun is like the best..
- Preventative.
- It's preventative,
also really good for your skin not drinking,
not smoking,
sleeping a lot and drinking lots
of water and eating healthy.
I am now sounding like your mom.
- Thank you guys for watching.
We hope that the beauty industry is quacking ready for,
- James Charles Lookout Sister.
- Snack skin.
- Hey sisters welcome back
to my YouTube channel.
(laugher)
If in future videos,
you notice that we're looking really flawless,
let us know.
Otherwise, we'll see you guys next time.
Peace.