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  • David Handley: I'm David Handley with the University of Maine Cooperative Extension.

  • Today we're going to talk about planting your blueberries.

  • Now, we've got the site all ready and you can see our previous video for information

  • on that. Now it's time to put these in the ground. The best time to plant your blueberries

  • is in the early spring. You don't have to wait until things are too warm. They can go

  • in the ground just as soon as you can work that soil up without it being too terribly

  • muddy. So wait for the soil to dry out a bit, but that's the time to plant your blueberries.

  • Now typically what we get from a nursery is a one or two year old plant. It will be about

  • this size, somewhere between a foot and two feet tall with hopefully a nice, good root

  • system down at the bottom. We can buy these either bare root, as you see here, or sometimes

  • you can buy them in pots, too, if you're just buying them from a local garden center. It

  • doesn't matter. Both plants will work perfectly well. If you're buying plants in quantity,

  • the bare root is a cheaper way to go.

  • So with this, we just want to unwrap them when they come wrapped up like this. You can

  • see we've got a nice, fine root system here ready to go. If it looks a little compacted,

  • don't be afraid to work your fingers in there and loosen things up a bit and get that ready

  • to plant and ready to go.

  • Now we want to dig a good sized hole for a blueberry plant. You can see here, I've got

  • a ten dollar hole for a five dollar plant. That's exactly what we want to have here.

  • We're going to take the soil out of there and we're going to blend this soil one to

  • one with some good source of organic matter. I like to use peat moss. It can be a little

  • expensive if you're putting a lot of plants in the ground.

  • As we talked about in our previous video, you can also use compost if you like. Just

  • be aware that the PH of the compost may be a little high for blueberries. You want to

  • keep this PH about 4.8 to 5.2.

  • The soil I've dug out of this hole, I just want to blend it one to one with that peat

  • moss. Just work that peat moss nicely into the soil. And then that is what I'm going

  • to backfill with.

  • I put my plant in the hole. I spread the roots out a little bit and I want to plant this

  • plant at the same depth it was in the nursery. In other words, I want the soil to come right

  • up to the top of the plant, maybe just a hair deeper. But we don't need to plant it too

  • terribly deep.

  • I'm going to fill a little of this blend back in to get this to the height I want it. Spread

  • those roots out a bit. Break up any crust that might be at the top. If it's got a little

  • crown that's developed at the top, break that down because that can work as a wick and actually

  • if that gets above the soil it can actually dry the root system out, acting like a wick

  • like that.

  • We break that down, loosen those roots up without tearing them too badly, then backfill

  • with our blend. Add a little more peat moss here. Just backfill with that and just press

  • that down in place. Make sure the soil is nice and packed around it. We don't want to

  • leave that part of the plant popped up, like I said, because that will dry it out.

  • When we've pressed this soil around we want to end it such that you have a little bit

  • of a dish going around the bush, a little bit of a depression. The reason we're doing

  • this is so that when we water this plant in the water will collect there.

  • Nice and firm around there. Just again, just build that soil up and a little bit of a dish

  • around there. And then we can just water that plant in.

  • Make sure it's getting a good drink. Come back after this water is soaked in. Give it

  • another drink. And then we come back and add some mulch to that. We like to mulch our plants

  • right away because the mulch will help conserve the moisture that's there and it will prevent

  • any weed seeds that are in the soil from popping up and germinating. Most weed seeds need a

  • little bit of light to stimulate them to germinate.

  • So after that water has soaked in, we can use something nice like pine needles for a

  • good mulch. We could use wood chips. We could use bark. Whatever's available. I like pine

  • needles because they're readily available, they're relatively inexpensive.

  • We want to put a good, thick layer around this, six to eight inches thick. Just tuck

  • it right around that plant, covering up that bowl that we've made. Just enough to keep

  • the weeds out. Compress it a little bit so the wind doesn't blow it away. And we're good

  • to go.

  • Now I don't believe in doing a lot of heavy pruning at planting time. If you've got any

  • very weak shoots that are there or shoots that are growing along the ground or shoots

  • that are broken, you can trim off something that's very, very weak. But other than that,

  • it's pretty much leave them alone at this point. Heavy pruning at this point is actually

  • going to stress the plant out. It's going to try to put a lot of vegetative vigor on

  • and it hasn't got a good enough root system to support that at this time.

  • If you've got plant tags on, it's a good idea to staple these to a wooden or a metal stake

  • and put them to the side. Leaving them on here when the stem starts to grow, it can

  • actually girdle them.

  • Now, after these plants have been in the ground for a few weeks, these little buds on the

  • shoots are going to break and we'll see some leaves. You may also see some flower clusters

  • up near the tip. In the planting year, you want to rub those flower clusters off because

  • we're not asking the plant to put all its energy into fruit production. We want to develop

  • new shoots, new roots to get this bush off to a good start.

  • And that's it. If we're going on to our next plant, we want to make sure that one's about

  • five feet away down the row. And if we're actually going to have a second row, the second

  • row needs to be about eight feet apart. So five foot spacing in the row and about eight

  • feet between rows if you go with more than one.

  • Now most blueberry plants require a friend for crosspollination so it's best to plant

  • more than one variety to make sure that the bees are going to move the pollen around and

  • give you good fruit set.

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