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  • Claudia Romeo: You might not expect to find

  • a tea plantation in Europe,

  • but there is actually one off the coast of Portugal

  • in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

  • The tropical climate and volcanic soil

  • make for perfect growing conditions,

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  • We're on São Miguel,

  • the biggest island here in the Azores

  • and the home of tea.

  • On this island alone, in the 19th century,

  • there used to be six tea manufacturers,

  • but now there are only two left.

  • The biggest and the oldest is Gorreana,

  • which we're going to visit today.

  • It's 138 years old, and they still make tea

  • following the methods of the past.

  • Gorreana makes both black and green tea.

  • For black tea, depending on which leaf it comes from,

  • the tea is given a different grading:

  • orange pekoe, pekoe, or broken leaf.

  • Madalena Motta: This is a strong tea, pekoe.

  • Orange pekoe. More aromatic.

  • And this is broken leaf. Very light tea.

  • You can touch, and you can feel.

  • They are different. Claudia: Yeah.

  • This is a bit rougher.

  • So, why is it that this plant grows so well

  • here in the Azores

  • and not anywhere else in Europe?

  • Madalena: Because it needs

  • water, not too much sun, fog.

  • And because it rains a lot, the land is acid.

  • So our tea is different from other teas by the taste.

  • It's very balanced. Not strong.

  • And the green tea doesn't have a fishy taste on the end.

  • So this is the perfect place to have tea.

  • Claudia: The tea plant is not native to the Azores.

  • It was brought here over two centuries ago,

  • as islanders were in need of a new crop

  • after a fungal disease wiped out São Miguel's

  • main source of trade at the time, oranges.

  • They were not disappointed.

  • The Camellia sinensis couldn't have found

  • more fertile soils than these.

  • Madalena: And here, the plants don't die,

  • because it rains a lot.

  • When a plant is old,

  • more or less 20, 19 years old,

  • there's another one that comes.

  • So you have always to take off plants.

  • Claudia: The harvest lasts six months,

  • from spring to fall,

  • until the leaves become too strong to make a good tea.

  • In order to move around freely,

  • harvesters first have to cut the sides of the plant.

  • Then they use a machine that cuts

  • only the very first leaves.

  • The leaves may be small,

  • but harvesting them is not a light job at all.

  • The same way water plays an important role

  • in the growth of the plant,

  • it makes life difficult for the harvesters

  • when they have to bring the leaves indoors.

  • A bag of wet leaves like this weighs around 15 kilos,

  • and there are hundreds to move a day.

  • Gorreana is set on three floors,

  • which conveniently follow the transformation

  • from fresh leaf to tea leaf.

  • On the first floor, there is a wilting room.

  • It's a warm room where the leaves stay for 12 hours

  • to let the water evaporate and the leaves soften.

  • So, how many leaves do you collect on average?

  • Madalena: To make 1 kilo, you need 5 kilos of leaves.

  • So we make 45 tons a year.

  • Claudia: Black tea and green tea

  • come from the same plant.

  • What is different is the making process.

  • To make black tea, leaves fall in this cylinder

  • to be rolled on the ground floor of the factory.

  • Rolling releases the juices of the leaves.

  • The step that follows is oxidation,

  • which happens in the basement of the factory.

  • Leaves reach it by going through

  • this other machine with a net.

  • The net has different-sized holes

  • to start dividing leaves into the three grades of black tea.

  • It's what Madalena was telling me here,

  • but the noise from the rolling machines was so loud

  • that our microphones didn't really catch much of it.

  • Listen for yourself.

  • [machines rumbling]

  • The sound was a bit better downstairs

  • in the oxidation room.

  • Madalena explained to me

  • that oxidation is a natural process

  • that occurs after the leaves are exposed to the air.

  • This contributes to the aroma of the tea.

  • Madalena: What the machines did up

  • was this movement,

  • for roll the leaves

  • and for the juice to come out

  • to stay black for the oxidation process.

  • In two hours, it's black.

  • My hands are starting to be black.

  • Claudia: So oxidation is not something you do,

  • it's just when you extract the juice.

  • Madalena: If I was going to make green tea,

  • it doesn't come here.

  • Because we don't do the oxidation.

  • We have to stop the oxidation.

  • Claudia: Oh, OK, so the leaves

  • are constantly separated.

  • Madalena: Yes, always. Because it's orthodox way.

  • Orthodox way, you are always separating the leaves.

  • It's more expensive to make orthodox way.

  • And here, this one, the bigger ones.

  • The ones that stay inside, they're not good.

  • Claudia: The tea leaves will be separated

  • another three times during the drying process,

  • by size and by weight by machines,

  • and by hand and human eye as a final check.

  • But we'll have to wait a couple of hours

  • for the oxidation to happen,

  • so how about we talk about green tea for a minute?

  • Madalena tells me that, unlike black tea,

  • green tea is only made at the end of summer,

  • where the sun has hardened the leaves.

  • The process is similar,

  • but the big difference is that

  • after spending 12 hours in the wilting room,

  • the leaves go through a steaming process

  • before being rolled.

  • Madalena: We close the machine,

  • and it stays here for four, five minutes.

  • And the oxidation process is stopped,

  • because we don't want to oxidate the tea.

  • Claudia: All right.

  • Madalena: And then goes roll, and dry.

  • Claudia: And then, what is the difference in taste

  • between the two teas?

  • Madalena: Green tea is more healthy

  • because it has more antioxidants.

  • And black tea, I say it's for your soul.

  • Black tea is more tasty, it has more balance.

  • My father always tells me that

  • the best tea in the world is the tea that

  • the one that you drink with your grandmother,

  • it's the one that's going to stay on your mind.

  • Claudia: So how about you?

  • Because your grandmother used to actually work here,

  • so which one would you drink?

  • Madalena: We drank pekoe, because I like very strong teas.

  • Claudia: Rolling, sorting, steaming,

  • the machines are the true wonder of this factory.

  • At Gorreana, very little has changed since the 19th century.

  • And these are the original machines

  • of Gorreana? Madalena: Yes, the original.

  • Claudia: So they have never changed.

  • Madalena: The tea machines didn't grow.

  • Maybe now the material, it's different,

  • but the movements, the way of making tea is the same.

  • This is from the revolution, the Industrial Revolution.

  • They are made to live all the world.

  • The energy, it's from 1920.

  • It's the first energy in the world called continuous.

  • Claudia: Another great feature of the Gorreana factory

  • is that it is powered entirely by water.

  • The system was installed by Madalena's grandfather,

  • and it uses a stream flowing through the factory's estate.

  • Not paying for power is the main reason

  • why Gorreana has stood the test of time

  • against other tea manufacturers on the island

  • and why the company can afford the 72 employees

  • who work in the factory today.

  • Madalena: Many people come here not to see the tea,

  • but to see the energy,

  • because they are electronic engineers,

  • and they come to a world that no more exists

  • but exists in Gorreana.

  • Claudia: Let's go back to our black tea.

  • We left off at the oxidation process, which is now over.

  • The next phase is drying, and then separating the leaves.

  • They are first separated by size in this roller,

  • and then by weight in this wooden machine.

  • Madalena: After the drying, one that rolls,

  • and then the second one that rolls again

  • and separates by size,

  • and then goes by weight.

  • More cellulosic, less cellulosic.

  • In a machine made of wood that is the oldest one

  • in the tea factory.

  • Claudia: OK, so the leaves that have

  • more cellulose, they

  • Madalena: They go out.

  • Claudia: The machines may never stop working,

  • but the final check is always left to a human eye,

  • to Carla and her colleagues.

  • Carla: Here we are taking out the stems.

  • This is the black tea, the pekoe.

  • The strongest tea.

  • Here, you can see the brown.

  • It's different, because it's brown.

  • The lighter ones, the leaves are more black.

  • Claudia: And these are the only ones you need, right?

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  • Claudia: How many years have you been doing this?

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  • Claudia: OK, so you know by eye.

  • That's why it's so fast for you.

  • So, here we are,

  • with what normally would be a beautiful view on the sea.

  • Madalena: But you can see a little bit of blue,

  • in the corner.

  • Claudia: OK, yeah. Maybe.

  • But this is actually the best weather to make tea.

  • Madalena: It's the best weather for the tea.

  • Claudia: So let's see if it is the best weather

  • to also taste it.

  • Madalena: This is the strong one.

  • Claudia: This is the one you like.

  • We can make, ah, cin cin! [mugs click]

  • Claudia: And you actually don't put anything in tea?

  • Madalena: No, no sugar.

  • Claudia: That's the way I like it.

  • [birds chirping]

  • Yeah, it is a bit acidic.

  • Madalena: Yes.

  • If it was an orange pekoe, more flavor.

  • This one is more strong.

  • Claudia: Yes, it is strong. Madalena: More aggressive.

  • But it's still pretty balanced.

  • Madalena: Yes, it's balanced.

  • The English call our tea fresh.

  • Claudia: So this one is aggressive

  • for the variety?

  • Madalena: Yes.

  • No, because of our land.

  • Our plant changed and adapted to the weather,

  • because here we have sea all over the place.

  • Claudia: Yeah, that's true.

  • Madalena: We cannot go to a place and

  • don't have the wind of the sea,

  • because we are a very little island.

  • The biggest island here in the Azores.

  • Here and the — [beep]

  • Leaving the rest of the leaves behind.

  • [sighs] [beep]

  • Tea. Leaving the rest of the

  • eh, sorry. [beep]

  • The oldest and the biggest is Gorreana.

  • They're 30 years — [laughs]

Claudia Romeo: You might not expect to find

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