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Claudia Romeo: You might not expect to find
克勞迪婭-羅密歐你可能沒有想到會找到
a tea plantation in Europe,
歐洲的一個茶葉種植園。
but there is actually one off the coast of Portugal
但實際上,在葡萄牙海岸有一個。
in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
在大西洋的中間。
The tropical climate and volcanic soil
熱帶氣候和火山土壤
make for perfect growing conditions,
使得生長條件更加完美。
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We're on São Miguel,
我們在聖米格爾。
the biggest island here in the Azores
這裡是亞速爾群島中最大的島嶼
and the home of tea.
和茶的故鄉。
On this island alone, in the 19th century,
僅在這個島上,在19世紀。
there used to be six tea manufacturers,
過去有六個茶葉製造商。
but now there are only two left.
但現在只剩下兩個了。
The biggest and the oldest is Gorreana,
最大和最古老的是Gorreana。
which we're going to visit today.
我們今天要訪問的。
It's 138 years old, and they still make tea
它有138年的歷史,他們仍然在做茶。
following the methods of the past.
遵循過去的方法。
Gorreana makes both black and green tea.
Gorreana同時製作紅茶和綠茶。
For black tea, depending on which leaf it comes from,
對於紅茶,取決於它來自哪片葉子。
the tea is given a different grading:
茶葉被賦予不同的等級。
orange pekoe, pekoe, or broken leaf.
橙子、白果或碎葉。
Madalena Motta: This is a strong tea, pekoe.
馬達萊納-莫塔:這是一種濃茶,pekoe。
Orange pekoe. More aromatic.
橙皮克。更加芳香。
And this is broken leaf. Very light tea.
而這是碎葉。非常清淡的茶。
You can touch, and you can feel.
你可以觸摸,也可以感受。
They are different. Claudia: Yeah.
他們是不同的。克勞迪婭:是的。
This is a bit rougher.
這是一個比較粗糙的問題。
So, why is it that this plant grows so well
那麼,為什麼這種植物生長得這麼好呢?
here in the Azores
在亞速爾群島這裡
and not anywhere else in Europe?
而不是在歐洲的其他地方?
Madalena: Because it needs
Madalena: 因為它需要
water, not too much sun, fog.
水,沒有太多的陽光,有霧。
And because it rains a lot, the land is acid.
而且由於經常下雨,土地呈酸性。
So our tea is different from other teas by the taste.
是以,我們的茶葉與其他茶葉的口感是不同的。
It's very balanced. Not strong.
它非常平衡。不強。
And the green tea doesn't have a fishy taste on the end.
而且綠茶最後沒有腥味。
So this is the perfect place to have tea.
所以這裡是喝茶的最佳場所。
Claudia: The tea plant is not native to the Azores.
克勞迪婭:茶樹不是亞速爾群島的原生植物。
It was brought here over two centuries ago,
它是兩個多世紀前被帶到這裡的。
as islanders were in need of a new crop
因為島民需要新的作物
after a fungal disease wiped out São Miguel's
在一種真菌性疾病消滅了聖米格爾的
main source of trade at the time, oranges.
當時的主要貿易來源是橙子。
They were not disappointed.
他們沒有感到失望。
The Camellia sinensis couldn't have found
山茶樹不可能找到
more fertile soils than these.
比這更肥沃的土壤。
Madalena: And here, the plants don't die,
馬達萊納:而在這裡,植物不會死亡。
because it rains a lot.
因為它經常下雨。
When a plant is old,
當一株植物老了。
more or less 20, 19 years old,
或多或少是20歲,19歲。
there's another one that comes.
又有一個人來了。
So you have always to take off plants.
是以,你必須總是脫掉植物。
Claudia: The harvest lasts six months,
克勞迪婭:收穫期持續6個月。
from spring to fall,
從春天到秋天。
until the leaves become too strong to make a good tea.
直到葉子變得太濃,無法制成好茶。
In order to move around freely,
為了自由行動。
harvesters first have to cut the sides of the plant.
收割機首先要切斷植物的兩側。
Then they use a machine that cuts
然後他們用一臺機器來切割
only the very first leaves.
只有最開始的葉子。
The leaves may be small,
葉子可能很小。
but harvesting them is not a light job at all.
但收穫它們的工作一點也不輕鬆。
The same way water plays an important role
同樣,水也發揮著重要的作用
in the growth of the plant,
在植物的生長中。
it makes life difficult for the harvesters
讓收割者的生活變得艱難
when they have to bring the leaves indoors.
當他們不得不把葉子帶進室內時。
A bag of wet leaves like this weighs around 15 kilos,
一袋這樣的溼葉子大約有15公斤重。
and there are hundreds to move a day.
而且每天有幾百個人要移動。
Gorreana is set on three floors,
Gorreana位於三層樓。
which conveniently follow the transformation
這很方便地遵循轉變
from fresh leaf to tea leaf.
從鮮葉到茶葉。
On the first floor, there is a wilting room.
在一樓,有一個萎靡不振的房間。
It's a warm room where the leaves stay for 12 hours
這是一個溫暖的房間,葉子在裡面呆了12個小時。
to let the water evaporate and the leaves soften.
讓水蒸發,讓葉子變軟。
So, how many leaves do you collect on average?
那麼,你平均收集多少片葉子?
Madalena: To make 1 kilo, you need 5 kilos of leaves.
馬達萊納:要製作1公斤,你需要5公斤的葉子。
So we make 45 tons a year.
是以,我們每年生產45噸。
Claudia: Black tea and green tea
克勞迪婭:紅茶和綠茶
come from the same plant.
來自同一工廠。
What is different is the making process.
不同的是製作過程。
To make black tea, leaves fall in this cylinder
製作紅茶時,葉子要落在這個圓筒裡
to be rolled on the ground floor of the factory.
將在工廠的底層進行軋製。
Rolling releases the juices of the leaves.
滾動釋放出葉子的汁液。
The step that follows is oxidation,
接下來的步驟是氧化。
which happens in the basement of the factory.
這發生在工廠的地下室。
Leaves reach it by going through
葉子通過以下途徑到達它
this other machine with a net.
這個其他機器有一個網。
The net has different-sized holes
該網有不同大小的孔
to start dividing leaves into the three grades of black tea.
開始將茶葉分為紅茶的三個等級。
It's what Madalena was telling me here,
這就是瑪達萊納在這裡告訴我的。
but the noise from the rolling machines was so loud
但軋鋼機的噪音是如此之大
that our microphones didn't really catch much of it.
我們的麥克風並沒有真正捕捉到很多東西。
Listen for yourself.
自己聽吧。
[machines rumbling]
[機器隆隆聲]
The sound was a bit better downstairs
樓下的聲音要好一點
in the oxidation room.
在氧化室中。
Madalena explained to me
馬達萊納向我解釋說
that oxidation is a natural process
氧化是一個自然過程
that occurs after the leaves are exposed to the air.
葉子暴露在空氣中後發生的。
This contributes to the aroma of the tea.
這有助於提高茶葉的香氣。
Madalena: What the machines did up
馬達萊納:機器做了什麼了
was this movement,
是這個運動。
for roll the leaves
用於卷葉
and for the juice to come out
並讓果汁流出
to stay black for the oxidation process.
以保持黑色的氧化過程。
In two hours, it's black.
在兩個小時內,它是黑色的。
My hands are starting to be black.
我的手開始變黑了。
Claudia: So oxidation is not something you do,
克勞迪婭:所以氧化不是你做的事情。
it's just when you extract the juice.
只是在你提取果汁的時候。
Madalena: If I was going to make green tea,
馬達萊納:如果我打算泡綠茶。
it doesn't come here.
它不會來這裡。
Because we don't do the oxidation.
因為我們不做氧化處理。
We have to stop the oxidation.
我們必須阻止氧化。
Claudia: Oh, OK, so the leaves
克勞迪婭:哦,好的,所以葉子
are constantly separated.
不斷分離。
Madalena: Yes, always. Because it's orthodox way.
馬達萊納:是的,總是這樣。 因為它是正統的方式。
Orthodox way, you are always separating the leaves.
正統的方式,你總是在分離葉子。
It's more expensive to make orthodox way.
製作正統的方式更昂貴。
And here, this one, the bigger ones.
還有這裡,這個,更大的。
The ones that stay inside, they're not good.
留在裡面的,就不是好東西。
Claudia: The tea leaves will be separated
克勞迪婭:茶葉將被分開
another three times during the drying process,
在乾燥過程中又進行了三次。
by size and by weight by machines,
按尺寸和按機器的重量計算。
and by hand and human eye as a final check.
並通過手工和人眼進行最後檢查。
But we'll have to wait a couple of hours
但我們必須等上幾個小時
for the oxidation to happen,
以使其發生氧化。
so how about we talk about green tea for a minute?
那麼,我們來談一談綠茶如何?
Madalena tells me that, unlike black tea,
馬達萊納告訴我,與紅茶不同。
green tea is only made at the end of summer,
綠茶只在夏末製作。
where the sun has hardened the leaves.
陽光照射下葉子變硬的地方。
The process is similar,
這個過程是類似的。
but the big difference is that
但最大的區別是
after spending 12 hours in the wilting room,
在枯燥的房間裡呆了12個小時後。
the leaves go through a steaming process
葉子要經過蒸煮過程
before being rolled.
在被軋製之前。
Madalena: We close the machine,
馬達萊納:我們關閉機器。
and it stays here for four, five minutes.
它在這裡停留了四、五分鐘。
And the oxidation process is stopped,
而氧化過程被停止。
because we don't want to oxidate the tea.
因為我們不想讓茶葉被氧化。
Claudia: All right.
克勞迪婭:好的。
Madalena: And then goes roll, and dry.
馬達萊納:然後去滾,和幹。
Claudia: And then, what is the difference in taste
克勞迪婭:然後,口味上有什麼不同?
between the two teas?
兩種茶之間的關係?
Madalena: Green tea is more healthy
馬達萊納:綠茶更健康
because it has more antioxidants.
因為它有更多的抗氧化劑。
And black tea, I say it's for your soul.
而紅茶,我說它是為了你的靈魂。
Black tea is more tasty, it has more balance.
紅茶更美味,它有更多的平衡。
My father always tells me that
我父親總是告訴我,
the best tea in the world is the tea that —
世界上最好的茶是--的茶。
the one that you drink with your grandmother,
你和你祖母一起喝的那個。
it's the one that's going to stay on your mind.
這是一個將留在你腦海中的問題。
Claudia: So how about you?
克勞迪婭:那麼你呢?
Because your grandmother used to actually work here,
因為你的祖母曾經真的在這裡工作。
so which one would you drink?
那麼你會喝哪一種呢?
Madalena: We drank pekoe, because I like very strong teas.
Madalena:我們喝的是pekoe,因為我喜歡很濃的茶。
Claudia: Rolling, sorting, steaming,
克勞迪婭:軋製、分類、蒸煮。
the machines are the true wonder of this factory.
機器是這個工廠的真正奇蹟。
At Gorreana, very little has changed since the 19th century.
在Gorreana,自19世紀以來幾乎沒有什麼變化。
And these are the original machines
而這些是原始的機器
of Gorreana? Madalena: Yes, the original.
戈雷納的?馬達萊納:是的,原版。
Claudia: So they have never changed.
克勞迪婭:所以他們從未改變過。
Madalena: The tea machines didn't grow.
馬達萊納:茶機沒有增長。
Maybe now the material, it's different,
也許現在的材料,它是不同的。
but the movements, the way of making tea is the same.
但動作,泡茶的方式是一樣的。
This is from the revolution, the Industrial Revolution.
這是來自革命,工業革命。
They are made to live all the world.
他們是為了生活在整個世界。
The energy, it's from 1920.
能量,它來自1920年。
It's the first energy in the world called continuous.
這是世界上第一個被稱為連續的能源。
Claudia: Another great feature of the Gorreana factory
克勞迪婭:Gorreana工廠的另一大特點是
is that it is powered entirely by water.
是,它完全由水提供動力。
The system was installed by Madalena's grandfather,
該系統是由馬達萊納的祖父安裝的。
and it uses a stream flowing through the factory's estate.
而且它使用的是一條流經工廠莊園的溪流。
Not paying for power is the main reason
不付電費是主要原因
why Gorreana has stood the test of time
為什麼Gorreana能經受住時間的考驗?
against other tea manufacturers on the island
對抗島上的其他茶葉製造商
and why the company can afford the 72 employees
以及為什麼公司能夠負擔得起這72名員工
who work in the factory today.
今天在工廠工作的人。
Madalena: Many people come here not to see the tea,
馬達萊納:許多人來到這裡不是為了看茶。
but to see the energy,
但要看到能量。
because they are electronic engineers,
因為他們是電子工程師。
and they come to a world that no more exists
他們來到了一個不再存在的世界
but exists in Gorreana.
但存在於Gorreana。
Claudia: Let's go back to our black tea.
克勞迪婭:我們再來看看我們的紅茶。
We left off at the oxidation process, which is now over.
我們在氧化過程中離開,現在已經結束。
The next phase is drying, and then separating the leaves.
下一個階段是乾燥,然後將葉子分離出來。
They are first separated by size in this roller,
在這個滾筒中,它們首先被按大小分開。
and then by weight in this wooden machine.
然後在這個木製機器中按重量計算。
Madalena: After the drying, one that rolls,
馬達萊納:乾燥後,一個是滾動的。
and then the second one that rolls again
然後是第二個再次滾動的
and separates by size,
並按尺寸進行分離。
and then goes by weight.
然後再按重量進行。
More cellulosic, less cellulosic.
更多的纖維素,更少的纖維素。
In a machine made of wood that is the oldest one
在一個由木頭製成的機器裡,這是一個最古老的機器
in the tea factory.
在茶廠裡。
Claudia: OK, so the leaves that have
克勞迪婭:好的,所以那些有
more cellulose, they —
更多的纖維素,他們 -
Madalena: They go out.
馬達萊納:他們出去了。
Claudia: The machines may never stop working,
克勞迪婭:這些機器可能永遠不會停止工作。
but the final check is always left to a human eye,
但最後的檢查總是留給人的眼睛。
to Carla and her colleagues.
向卡拉和她的同事們致敬。
Carla: Here we are taking out the stems.
卡拉:在這裡,我們正在取出花莖。
This is the black tea, the pekoe.
這是紅茶,即pekoe。
The strongest tea.
最強的茶。
Here, you can see the brown.
在這裡,你可以看到棕色。
It's different, because it's brown.
它是不同的,因為它是棕色的。
The lighter ones, the leaves are more black.
淺色的,葉子更黑。
Claudia: And these are the only ones you need, right?
而這些是你唯一需要的,對嗎?
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Claudia: How many years have you been doing this?
克勞迪婭:你做這個有多少年了?
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Claudia: OK, so you know by eye.
克勞迪婭:好的,所以你通過眼睛知道。
That's why it's so fast for you.
這就是為什麼它對你來說這麼快。
So, here we are,
所以,我們在這裡。
with what normally would be a beautiful view on the sea.
與通常情況下的美麗海景。
Madalena: But you can see a little bit of blue,
馬達萊納:但你可以看到一點藍色。
in the corner.
在角落裡。
Claudia: OK, yeah. Maybe.
克勞迪婭:好的,是的。也許吧。
But this is actually the best weather to make tea.
但這實際上是泡茶的最佳天氣。
Madalena: It's the best weather for the tea.
馬達萊納:現在是喝茶的最佳天氣。
Claudia: So let's see if it is the best weather
克勞迪婭:那麼讓我們看看它是否是最好的天氣
to also taste it.
也是為了品嚐它。
Madalena: This is the strong one.
馬達萊納:這是最強的一個。
Claudia: This is the one you like.
克勞迪婭:這是你喜歡的那一個。
We can make, ah, cin cin! [mugs click]
我們可以做,啊,cin cin![馬克杯點擊]
Claudia: And you actually don't put anything in tea?
克勞迪婭:實際上你不在茶裡放任何東西?
Madalena: No, no sugar.
馬達萊納:不,不加糖。
Claudia: That's the way I like it.
克勞迪婭:這就是我喜歡的方式。
[birds chirping]
[鳥兒的鳴叫聲]
Yeah, it is a bit acidic.
是的,它有點酸。
Madalena: Yes.
馬達萊納:是的。
If it was an orange pekoe, more flavor.
如果是橙子皮克,那就更有味道了。
This one is more strong.
這個人比較強壯。
Claudia: Yes, it is strong. Madalena: More aggressive.
克勞迪婭:是的,它很強。馬達萊納:更有侵略性。
But it's still pretty balanced.
但它仍然是相當平衡的。
Madalena: Yes, it's balanced.
馬達萊納:是的,它是平衡的。
The English call our tea fresh.
英國人稱我們的茶是新鮮的。
Claudia: So this one is aggressive
克勞迪婭:所以這個人是積極的
for the variety?
種類?
Madalena: Yes.
馬達萊納:是的。
No, because of our land.
不,因為我們的土地。
Our plant changed and adapted to the weather,
我們的植物改變並適應了天氣。
because here we have sea all over the place.
因為我們這裡到處都是海。
Claudia: Yeah, that's true.
克勞迪婭:是的,那是真的。
Madalena: We cannot go to a place and
馬達萊納:我們不能到一個地方去,而
don't have the wind of the sea,
沒有大海的風。
because we are a very little island.
因為我們是一個非常小的島嶼。
The biggest island here in the Azores.
這裡是亞速爾群島中最大的島嶼。
Here and the — [beep]
這裡和--[嗶嗶聲]
Leaving the rest of the leaves behind.
留下了其餘的樹葉。
[sighs] [beep]
[嘆氣] [嗶嗶聲]
Tea. Leaving the rest of the —
茶。
eh, sorry. [beep]
呃,對不起。[嗶嗶聲]
The oldest and the biggest is Gorreana.
最古老和最大的是Gorreana。
They're 30 years — [laughs]
他們是30年 - [笑]