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  • Claudia Romeo: You will spot it in a crowd

  • thanks to its circular shape.

  • But the reason why

  • you will forever remember this sausage

  • is the taste.

  • With a coarser, juicier texture than other sausages

  • and a flavorful aroma

  • from the generous amount of spices,

  • Cumberland sausages are a favorite in the UK.

  • But there are only 12 butchers in the country

  • making the original, traditional sausage

  • that's been granted a protected status.

  • We're in Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, England.

  • This county has been the home of Cumberland sausages

  • for hundreds of years.

  • And today we're going to learn more

  • about the traditional method to make Cumberland sausages,

  • a method that will take us back

  • to the times of the British Empire.

  • Let's go find out more.

  • To make traditional Cumberland sausages,

  • butchers would have originally used a local breed,

  • the Cumberland pig, which is now extinct.

  • So now they use rare breeds, outdoor pigs,

  • like today's British Lop.

  • And what you find is, because they live longer,

  • the flavor is in the meat,

  • and with a little bit of spices and herbs,

  • the sausage is fantastic.

  • So, here we have the half of the pig.

  • This is the shoulder,

  • this is the middle, and the belly.

  • So we have the loin,

  • which is the loin chops, and the belly pork.

  • And then we have the leg.

  • And we make a combination of the leg

  • and the shoulder together.

  • Because in the leg, it's lean.

  • And if you only just use the leg,

  • you need a little bit of fat.

  • So we need to combine the both.

  • And when we cook this,

  • you will see that the combination is the best.

  • So, the knife skills.

  • In taking off the meat from the bone,

  • they've got to separate any sinew and skin.

  • Claudia: OK.

  • Peter: Believe it or not, any skin like this,

  • in a commercial machine,

  • could be made into a paste and could end up in the sausage.

  • We don't want that, and we haven't got the machine.

  • So it's important that every little bit of sinew,

  • bone, cartilage is removed

  • so we end up with really nice meat.

  • Claudia: Yeah.

  • And depending on profit,

  • we need as much meat from the bone as possible,

  • otherwise he's a very bad butcher.

  • Claudia: [laughing] OK.

  • So, this one has been skinned pretty well?

  • Peter: [laughing] Yeah, that's pretty good.

  • Claudia: Once the meat is deboned and degristled,

  • these are the chops that will later

  • be turned into Cumberland sausages.

  • Rather than going through

  • a more commercial bowl chopper and being emulsified,

  • the meat is thickly minced to retain solid, chunky pieces.

  • Peter: So, those are nice, chunky pieces of mince

  • that, in a mouth texture, would be really good.

  • Claudia: Yeah, that's true.

  • I can see the fat,

  • but it's not as dominant as you would think.

  • We call that 80 VL.

  • So, 80 pieces are red, 20 pieces are white.

  • It's called visual lean.

  • We can see this.

  • Claudia: Yeah, it's true, it's true,

  • 'cause you never want to get rid of all the fat.

  • Peter: No, no, no, no, no.

  • Claudia: You still need a bit to flavor --

  • Peter: But if you put too much fat in,

  • then it fills up the pan, and that's no good.

  • And your sausage shrinks.

  • But with this, the sausage will stay the same.

  • Claudia: It may sound obvious,

  • but high meat content in a sausage is never a given.

  • More commercial butchers will use bread or cereal,

  • which is something Peter feels pretty strongly against.

  • The bread or cereal will soak up some of that extra fat,

  • which will in turn alter

  • the structure and flavor of the sausage.

  • We want a high-meat-content sausage.

  • We want a proper Cumberland sausage

  • to be recognized, because it's different.

  • And so we applied to the European Union

  • for protection of our regional sausage.

  • Claudia: And that took?

  • Peter: 10 years.

  • Claudia: 10 years to be approved.

  • Peter: This is what they call bureaucracy.

  • 10 years.

  • Claudia: Now that we're all set

  • on the importance of the meat,

  • we are ready to learn more about

  • another distinctive feature of a Cumberland sausage,

  • its spices.

  • These are added by hand before the whole mix

  • is encased in the pig's natural intestine.

  • So, what sort of spices go into Cumberland sausages?

  • What do we have here?

  • Peter: In here, we've got salt and pepper,

  • we've got a little bit of sage and nutmeg

  • that are finely ground,

  • we've got potato starch and rice flour.

  • Claudia: OK.

  • Peter: And this mix is the meat

  • and the combination together.

  • Then we've got some herbs,

  • which is a little bit of sage.

  • You could use a fresh sage,

  • but with a dried sage,

  • it gives it a little bit of better shelf life

  • 'cause it's nice and clean.

  • And then we've got the rusk,

  • which is a pea starch.

  • Claudia: Which is not bread, right?

  • Peter: Not bread, no.

  • Now it's gone a little bit dry,

  • so we have to have a bit of water.

  • Because all that has to come out of this nozzle.

  • Claudia: This specific spice blend wasn't random.

  • According to Peter, back in the 1800s,

  • German slate miners moved to Cumbria for work

  • and brought their sausage recipe with them.

  • But instead of the spices they were used to,

  • they used spices they could get locally,

  • which weren't actually that local.

  • Spices were being imported to Cumbria

  • from the Caribbean thanks to the port of Whitehaven,

  • the second-biggest port in the country at the time.

  • Peter: So there was always a little bit of spice.

  • Sometimes you might even find ginger.

  • But predominantly nutmeg,

  • mace, pepper.

  • And these were the spices

  • that made the Cumberland sausage very different.

  • If you were working hard in the slate mines

  • and you wanted to have a nice, strong sausage,

  • the local spices were fantastic.

  • Claudia: Wow.

  • Peter: But really, the real component was the meat.

  • Claudia: Yeah, yeah.

  • So, all together make something quite unique.

  • Peter: I take the intestine of the pig that's been cleaned.

  • Claudia: OK, so this is the intestine, yeah?

  • Peter: Yeah, this is the intestine.

  • Claudia: It's long. Peter: And, basically,

  • we put this onto the nozzle of the sausage machine.

  • Claudia: All right.

  • Peter: And this is very important

  • that we use a natural casing, a natural intestine,

  • as opposed to the cowhide synthetic

  • which commercial sausage makers are now tending to use.

  • Claudia: So it just gives you

  • a better texture at the end

  • and a better taste. Peter: Well, exactly.

  • When you cook it, that natural texture,

  • it isn't chewy or rubbery or plasticky,

  • like sometimes you find on some sausages.

  • Claudia: Yeah.

  • How long is that?

  • This is one intestine from one pig, no?

  • 'Cause it's continuous.

  • Peter: In Victorian times, it was 19 yards.

  • Now it's 21 meters.

  • Claudia: OK, so now I know how long that is.

  • Peter: And that's interesting,

  • because as we've improved

  • the commercial viability of our pigs,

  • the intestine has got longer,

  • and probably the ability to absorb more food.

  • It's just one of them things.

  • But, yeah, there is definitely 21 yards, 21 meters.

  • Claudia: Oh, they have this --

  • Peter: Coil.

  • Claudia: Yeah, this thing, coil.

  • And why is that?

  • Peter: Don't know.

  • Claudia: No?

  • Peter: Probably 'cause we couldn't tie knots.

  • Claudia: Really? [laughs]

  • Peter: Maybe it came with the Germans,

  • because they make the rings of sausage.

  • Claudia: OK, yeah. Peter: So, you know,

  • maybe they were making a sausage with a ring.

  • You know, like a ring, like the sausage

  • sometimes in Germany, you have the --

  • Claudia: Yeah.

  • Type of sausages.

  • We don't know.

  • Claudia: And it's quite pink, no?

  • That's a nice, traditional Cumberland sausage.

  • You can see in the white bits, you can see the 80 VL,

  • you can see a little bit of the herbs.

  • Claudia: You can see where the fat is,

  • which also makes you realize

  • that there's not that much of it.

  • Peter: Sometimes I think you see

  • sausages in Italy like this, don't you?

  • Claudia: Yeah, in my region we have one

  • that's served like this that's called zampina.

  • Peter: Zampina?

  • Claudia: Yeah, it means little paw.

  • Peter: Oh, right.

  • Claudia: But it's served in a coil like this, yeah.

  • And it's, like, the grilling sausage.

  • Once in a coil, a proper Cumberland sausage

  • needs to be left overnight

  • to let the spices and herbs blend into the meat.

  • Peter grilled some from yesterday's production

  • for us to taste.

  • Here, Claudia, have a taste of our sausage.

  • Thank you.

  • Here you go.

  • Chef.

  • [Claudia laughing]

  • Got to remember the cameraman,

  • then he gives me my best angle.

  • Yeah.

  • [Peter and Claudia laughing]

  • So, the thickness is important.

  • The coarse texture is important.

  • But above all else, the taste in the mouth.

  • Please.

  • Cheers.

  • Peter: Mm.

  • Claudia: Mm.

  • That crack that you feel

  • when you bite into the natural casing.

  • Peter: Natural casing, natural intestine.

  • You're also tasting meat.

  • Definitely.

  • That's prominent.

  • A little bit of influence with the seasoning.

  • Claudia: Pepper. Pepper most of all.

  • Peter: Bit of pepper there, yeah.

  • Obviously, bit of nutmeg.

  • Can you taste it?

  • Claudia: Yeah, bit of that as well.

  • And to be cooking this on the barbecue,

  • on the grill, in the oven, fantastic.

  • Yeah, yeah, it's very good.

  • It is, yeah, you can taste the meat.

  • Like, it is quite meaty.

  • Peter: Claudia, if you own a Rolls-Royce --

  • Claudia: I wish.

  • You wouldn't put cheap oil in the engine.

  • Don't put bad food in your mouth.

  • This is fantastic.

  • Claudia: Yeah.

  • So, how would you recommend eating this?

  • I mean, apart from this way, like on a stick?

  • Traditionally --

  • Claudia: Oh! Huh.

  • In the ring.

  • Claudia: Ah.

  • A proper Cumberland sausage.

  • A good meal. Claudia: Beautiful.

  • Maybe a meal nowadays for two.

  • Claudia: Um, I'll eat that.

  • [all laughing]

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  • Peter: The more you give to Claudia,

  • the less you have, you know that?

  • Producer: I know! [laughing]

  • Peter: Have you had a bit?

  • Claudia: Sorry. [laughs]

Claudia Romeo: You will spot it in a crowd

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