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  • You're watching Vagabrothers,

  • and this is Uzbekistan.

  • For a weary traveler on the Silk Road,

  • what could be more important than water?

  • Welcome to Bukhara, the holiest city in Central Asia

  • and a major center of civilization since the 6th century BC,

  • in large part thanks to these ponds known as" hauz."

  • Once used for washing, drinking, and socializing,

  • these ponds were connected by canals all across the city,

  • but by the 19th and 20th century,

  • it was starting to get kind of nasty;

  • the water got stagnant.

  • They became a source of communicable diseases,

  • kind of logical when you're washing and drinking from the same water,

  • and then the Soviets came, filled them all in,

  • and this is one of the last ones in the city.

  • But they do have these little camels that you can sit on.

  • It's kind of fun.

  • Giddy-up!

  • As an oasis on the Silk Road,

  • this had the first mosque in Central Asia.

  • It became a major center of learning with over 200 universities

  • and the most scholars after Bagdad.

  • It was known as the "City of a Thousand Merchants,"

  • and it's home to Central Asia's oldest Jewish community.

  • And to be completely honest, it reminds me of Tatooine.

  • Where are the Droids?

  • Here in Bukhara a lot of the trading is centered under these gigantic domes.

  • It's low season right now,

  • so a lot of shops are closed, but there's still a lot of cool stuff.

  • Right here in this one, they sell a lot of men's head wear.

  • Hats are popular with guys because as an Islamic country,

  • most of the women are wearing hijab and so hats are more for men.

  • But Alex has found some musical instruments over here,

  • which is going to start jamming

  • Your loudest person in Central Asia.

  • It's too quiet here.

  • First and foremost, what's the connection between Bukhara and rugs?

  • In the world there were five big schools of carpets and one of the most biggest trading places,

  • Bukhara, was the carpets of Bukhara.

  • There were Persian rugs; there were Indochina;

  • there were Turkish, Caucasian.

  • It was more like a brand like you say this way.

  • Yeah, Bukhara was very famous with the carpets of Bukhara because of the technology.

  • I live in a house that has hardwood floors.

  • I like my hardwood floors, and as a person who doesn't really own carpets or rugs,

  • I've always wondered why they're so expensive.

  • Can you explain why?

  • Because 85% money you pay for the carpet is the labor.

  • Got it.

  • A carpet, a handmade carpet,

  • may take minimum of three months, like a new one

  • because they need to set up the loom first

  • and make pegs.

  • Three for girls to size these big ones.

  • Yes. Three or four years.

  • It depends on material, silk or wool, number of knots per square centimeter, which means quality, density,

  • and the design... how intricate colors.

  • And carpets in Bukhara in the world, they used to buy not only

  • for heating or things like this,

  • but also it was like an investment.

  • Then until now, it's the same.

  • You buy the carpet.

  • If it's a real handmade, good carpet,

  • it passes from generation to generation.

  • And it grows in value.

  • It grows in value.

  • Even with whatever discounts, I've realized

  • I've got champagne taste and beer income.

  • Unless we do an episode of Basic Versus Baller here, and I win Baller,

  • probably not going to buy a carpet on this trip.

  • These ones here are in the

  • $40,000 to $50,000 range.

  • I really love the details and the kind of faded look that go really well with modern houses.

  • This one here has been dyed with saffron.

  • That's one of the most expensive and luxurious seasonings for food.

  • It's very, very rare,

  • and they use it to dye entire carpet to give it this sort of saffron colored tint.

  • And this one right here....

  • This is about fifty thousand bucks.

  • I mean the geometrical designs, the floral patterns, beautiful colors.

  • These dyes are all local from indigo, and it is overall

  • really, really nice and worth the price.

  • Tied up with the exchange of goods was the exchange of ideas.

  • People overlook that,

  • but religions traveled just as easily across the Silk Roads as did luxury items, like silk.

  • You had Buddhism spread through here,

  • Islam, Christianity, Zoroastrianism, and Judaism,

  • all had a place here in this city.

  • And tonight we're going to go hang out with one of the oldest Jewish communities in Central Asia,

  • the Bukhari Jews.

  • Well, we are kind of navigating the back streets of Bukhara.

  • Pretty incredible though.

  • The walls on some of the older buildings are still like wattle and daub,

  • which is essentially mud and hay.

  • We are heading to a synagogue.

  • Bukhara has one of the oldest populations

  • of Jews in Central Asia,

  • and we're going to have a unique experience

  • and some dinner.

  • This synagogue was built in the late 1700s,

  • and it was renovated in the mid 1800s.

  • But in 1938, Stalin declared that the synagogues needed to close.

  • So they were closed until 1991 when

  • Uzbekistan became independent from the Soviet Union,

  • and the synagogue was renovated to its current state.

  • People are starting to arrive after work for the service,

  • and we've got this beautiful meal in front of us.

  • There's a lot of pickled varieties of like beets, carrots,

  • cucumber, potato salad, some fritters.

  • Yeah, some fruit. Mm-hmm.

  • And of course Coca-Cola, not to mention kosher vodka.

  • So this will be interesting

  • I think we have a main course coming after this.

  • But for now, I think it's time to sample some of these salads.

  • L'chaim. Cheers. Thank you

  • We have just finished the meal,

  • and we're sitting here at a table in a synagogue

  • in Central Asia during Hanukkah,

  • and we are sharing a meal with

  • people of the Jewish faith,

  • people of Islam, and people of Christianity,

  • and I think that it's just a very unique amazing moment for all of us here.

  • This is the Ark. It's a fifth century citadel,

  • and it's been a point of geopolitical conflict for centuries.

  • When we think of the "stans,"

  • we often think of the Cold War,

  • the U.S. versus the Soviet Union,

  • but this place really got to a famous moment in history during what was known as the "Great Game."

  • The Great Game is the nickname for the geopolitical struggle between the Czars of Russia and the British Empire,

  • which by the 1800s stretched all the way around the world

  • and was pushing up from India all the way to Afghanistan,

  • which is right next door.

  • The Czars were worried and so were the local emirs here in Uzbekistan.

  • So the British sent Colonel Stoddart of the British East India Company here

  • to reassure the local emir whose nickname was "The Butcher."

  • Unfortunately, things went wrong, thanks to a couple mistakes Stoddart made,

  • that led him to be the subject of newspapers around the world.

  • Here's what went down......

  • Even though Colonel Stoddard brought a message from Queen Victoria

  • saying that the British would not invade the kingdom,

  • he made three fatal mistakes that would cost him his life.

  • First: he rode his horse all the way up into the citadel,

  • something that only the emir was allowed to do.

  • They let that slide.

  • But then he also didn't bring a gift,

  • common courtesy anywhere, and

  • third, he turned his back on the emir,

  • a major breach of protocol that he was certainly warned about.

  • All this reeked of arrogance and the emir

  • threw him into a torture chamber known as the "Bug Pit."

  • This is the Bug Pit,

  • six and a half meter deep hole with an iron grid on top.

  • The guards would come by and chuck scorpions and spiders and all other things that go bump in the night,

  • basically making the worst form of solitary confinement imaginable.

  • Stoddart was down here for a full year by himself until the Queen sent the second guy, Conley, to come get him.

  • He was also chucked in the pit and both were executed four years later because

  • Queen Victoria never sent a response to the emir's letter.

  • That's a pretty crappy way to go.

  • What could inspire mercy in the heart of Genghis Khan?

  • The guy literally conquered everything between China and Europe,

  • destroying everything in his path except for this minaret.

  • Behind me is the Kalon Minaret,

  • a forty-nine meter tower of baked brick nicknamed the "Tower of Death."

  • Why, you might ask yourself?

  • Well, over the centuries it's been used as an observatory, for the call to prayer, but also for executions.

  • Think of it as an Uzbek version of the moon door in the Tower of Eyrie.

  • But don't worry.

  • Nobody's been pushed out in ninety-eight years.

  • What a view.

  • Now this place was even taller when Genghis Khan arrived.

  • Eleven meters are still buried underground.

  • And according to legend, it was so tall that when he arrived here,

  • he took a look all the way to the top and it was so big,

  • it knocked his hat backwards onto the floor.

  • They also say that he spared this tower,

  • even though he destroyed the rest of the city,

  • because he used it as a landmark while

  • riding back and forth across Asia.

  • Either way we somehow got the backstage ticket to come all the way the top of the tower.

  • So do not attempt at home,

  • but do enjoy this marvelous view.

  • What a fascinating place. Bukhara is beautiful.

  • It's got tons of history, and I really had a great time here.

  • It's kind of like that broken down palace beauty.

  • It's obviously seen better days,

  • but it's beautiful in the fact that

  • when you come here, it definitely feels like time travel.

  • It feels like you're taking a step back in time to a different world,

  • a different universe when this place was quite literally at the center of the world.

  • I really enjoyed having dinner at the synagogue with the Bukhari Jewish community.

  • The Jewish Diaspora is something that's really fascinating because

  • there're these core traditions that everyone has maintained,

  • but they've also adopted local traditions, as well.

  • And so to come to Central Asia,

  • to see one of the oldest Jewish communities in in this part of the world was fascinating.

  • Yeah, it was really cool.

  • It was like we were sitting at a table breaking bread with the Jewish faith, the Islamic faith, Christians.

  • It was just a really cool moment of everybody getting along, everybody having a good time,

  • and sharing insight and perspectives.

  • So what was your favorite thing?

  • Climbing to the top of the minaret was amazing.

  • I mean what a perspective, what a crazy opportunity.

  • Nobody really gets to do that.

  • There's not a lot of people going up there.

  • There were like the carcasses of birds because a peregrine falcon lives up there,

  • and it just felt like a moment from Assassin's Creed, honestly.

  • It was beautiful too, especially at night.

  • The lights really illuminated the details on the tower and made you realize just how fascinating it was.

  • And it's just like this place has got tons of amazing crafts,

  • from the stonework there to the rugs that we saw.

  • Everything here has been really beautiful.

  • So if you guys like this video,

  • please give it a big thumbs- up,

  • subscribe to our channel if you have not already,

  • If you're interested in Uzbekistan

  • then stay tuned because we still have a couple more episodes to go in this series.

  • And we're going on some serious time travel next.

  • So stay tuned. As we always say...

  • stay curious, keep exploring,

  • and we'll see you on the road.

  • Peace.

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