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  • "Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds."

  • P.O. Box 1663 was listed as a Santa Fe, New Mexico address in 1943.

  • And over the next few years, about 300 babies had it listed as the place of birth on their birth certificate.

  • Because the real location was a secret.

  • Everything sent to that P.O. box ended up here:

  • 33 miles from Santa Fe at a site also known as P.O. Box 180, Project Y, and Los Alamos, New Mexico.

  • A secret city had been built there.

  • And it was home to a community of scientists.

  • "Scientists of many nations."

  • The scientists who created the first nuclear bomb.

  • They lived a couple hundred miles from the site where their invention would be tested.

  • "New Mexico desert."

  • Trinity.

  • How did laboratory director J. Robert Oppenheimer end up building a town and testing the first nuclear bomb here?

  • Albert Einstein sent this letter on August 2nd, 1939.

  • He sent it to President Franklin Delano Roosevelt.

  • Drawing from the work of physicists Enrico Fermi and Leo Szilard, Einstein warned of a nuclear chain reaction in a large mass of uranium,

  • "The splitting of the uranium atom...”

  • which could lead to extremely powerful bombs of a new type.

  • Bombs that either side might develop and use.

  • After a couple of years of study as well as the American entry into World War II,

  • in June 1942, the Army Chief of Staff established a temporary headquarters at 270 Broadway in New York City.

  • The Manhattan Project had begun.

  • And it was called a new "Manhattan District" for the Army Corps of Engineers.

  • This map shows contemporary boundaries for Army engineer districts. Administrative areas.

  • The Manhattan District encompassed all these smaller districts because of its larger scope: to build an atomic weapon.

  • Less prominent secret locations included a nuclear reactor under a University of Chicago football field, the Alabama Ordnance Works for producing heavy water, and many others.

  • 1942 and 1943 saw the establishment of three major sites.

  • It began with Oak Ridge, Tennessee, sometimes called Y-12.

  • A large plant for the enrichment of uranium and production of some plutonium.

  • Nestled between mountains, it became...

  • "...a city where 75,000 people worked in absolute secrecy on history's most sensational secret.”

  • Two other major locations were established in 1943.

  • The Hanford Engineer Works in Washington state was responsible for much of the production of plutonium.

  • The top of this water tower there read "Silence means security."

  • But Hanford and Oak Ridge were nothing without the third site.

  • The army needed a place to create the bomb.

  • This is the Los Alamos Lament, a poem sometimes sung, about life in Los Alamos, written by technical Sergeant Ralph Gates.

  • It begins "I'm just a PO number.”

  • Specific numbers vary.

  • The third verse reads

  • "He put us on a mountain outside of Santa Fe where the only sign of wildlife are GI wolves at bay.”

  • Oppenheimer, based in Berkeley had believed that a central lab was key.

  • While they considered Oak Ridge and Chicago as lab locations, neither was remote enough.

  • An option near LA wasn't isolated.

  • One closer to Reno could be hit by heavy snows.

  • General Leslie Groves Jr. of the Army Corps of Engineers ran the project.

  • Oppenheimer and Groves agreed that New Mexico offered the security of isolation as well as familiarity, since Oppenheimer had spent time in the area.

  • The ideal site sat on the Pajarito Plateau.

  • It was isolated but also protected by its altitude and surrounding geography.

  • Jemez Springs, chosen first, proved to be too difficult.

  • The land was too difficult to acquire and the terrain was too rugged.

  • But nearby Los Alamos was atop a table land between mesas which made it easy to control entry and control any accidents.

  • Much of it was on already federally-owned land as well.

  • The only existing structure was a small school that had opened in 1935.

  • The owners sold.

  • The Secretary of War wrote the Secretary of Agriculture about the military necessity of acquiring the remaining federally-owned lands.

  • The request was granted for 54,000 acres of a demolition range.

  • Los Alamos was activated on April 1st, 1943.

  • P.O. Box 1663 transformed from an outdoorsy ranch school with buildings like this into a community doing the most advanced research in the world.

  • Roads were quickly developed, but the town was kept isolated.

  • Population grew from 1500 people to 5700 by 1945.

  • So rapid that hutments were a common form of accommodation.

  • Here you can see the wash drying by Quonset huts.

  • Apartment buildings were also available.

  • These accommodations mingled next to facilities for graphite fabrication and the cyclotron and Van de Graaff machines.

  • In early years, Los Alamos housed the world's finest researchers.

  • Here, Dorothy McKibbin in charge of receiving new personnel, sits next to Oppenheimer.

  • He's chatting with physicist Victor Weisskopf.

  • Here's Enrico Fermi on a hike.

  • And this is Edward Teller's ID badge.

  • He was later called the father of the hydrogen bomb.

  • The Medical Corps colonel wrote Leslie Groves that this intellectual group created challenges for a military operation.

  • "The large percentage of intellectuals... will require and seek more medical care than the average person.”

  • Other challenges?

  • "One-fifth of the married women became pregnant in Los Alamos, making maternity wards a necessity."

  • The past and atomic future intersected.

  • Ice was cut from nearby ponds and stored in ice houses because electric fridges were too hard to get.

  • At the time, the Bendix washer was revolutionizing laundry.

  • By 1943, a classified ad in the Santa Fe New Mexican was looking for one to be shipped to P.O. Box 1663 for wartime work.

  • But cultural phenomena as varied as they were, like this Los Alamos band, they had one real purpose: Building a bomb.

  • And they needed a place to test the bomb that they built.

  • This is the base camp at Trinity site.

  • A rapidly established headquarters created for testing the first atomic bomb.

  • The desert training center north of Rice, California, was runner up.

  • But it wasn't isolated enough or close enough to Los Alamos.

  • Located in the Jornada del Muerto Valley.

  • The winning site was selected with a more extreme version of the Los Alamos criteria.

  • Flat terrain to minimize blast effects.

  • Isolated, yet close enough to Los Alamos.

  • Good weather and nearby to highways like US-85 and 380.

  • More than 200 residents settled at the camp.

  • First, there was a 100 ton explosives test in May 1945.

  • Then they prepared the Gadget nuclear device.

  • And on July 16th, 1945, they conducted the test.

  • "First try out of this new cosmic force was held on the New Mexico desert."

  • The Los Alamos Lament was written after that test but before the August bombing of Japan.

  • "I'm just a P.O. number...”

  • "I have no real address...”

  • "Although we were selected...”

  • "I wonder for the best...”

  • "We're not like other people..."

  • "No one knows what we do..."

  • "So P.O. Box 1663..."

  • "Here's to you."

"Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds."

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