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Okay, so you think this is olive oil, right?
Wrong.
Well, maybe some of it is, but this is actually a classic example of food fraud.
Extra virgin olive oils are being switched out with cheap ones.
And fraudulent to sell something labeled as something else.
Why is this fish being mislabeled?
Their Parmesan cheese products do not contain any Parmesan cheese.
As there was no one brand that stood out as completely safe.
Wow, so we can't eat anything?
I guarantee you any time a product can be passed off as something more expensive, it will be.
It's that simple.
Counterfeits, dilutions, substitution, and mislabeling.
Food fraud not only harms consumers' wallets, it puts their health and safety at risk.
We might not know the overall impact of food fraud.
Because so much of what fraudsters do is hidden from us and has been for centuries.
Some estimates say food fraud affects at least 1% of the global food industry, at a cost as high as $40 billion a year, according to the Food and Drug Administration.
Grocery manufacturers of America estimated that 10% of the commercially available food in the United States is adulterated.
That's a one in 10.
It means if you're not on that eight item or less checkout line, you've got something in your cart when you leave the supermarket that's probably bogus.
Here's how, and why, fake food sits secretly in our kitchen cabinets.
According to the FDA, food fraud is considered Economically Motivated Adulteration, or EMA.
It's a monetary impact to the consumer and to the food manufacturers, but it's also a potential public safety, public health impact.
It robs us of nutrients and can kill people and has done.
Larry Olmstead researched food fraud for years and published his book, Real Food, Fake Food, in 2016.
As I worked on this book, my definition of fake food became any time what you buy is not what you think you're buying.
Doesn't really matter whether it's legal or illegal.
It's where you're being tricked.
You're buying something that's not what you think it is.
The worst offenders can include seafood, meat, dairy, honey, alcohol, spices.
The fraud happens more with more expensive foods.
Totally makes sense, right?
There's a higher margin.
Take your extra virgin olive oil as an example.
Fraud usually occurs here when a cheaper oil is added to the more expensive oil, and the label still reads 100% extra virgin olive oil.
That's food fraud.
Olive oil has been adulterated for thousands of years because it is of high value and it is sought out.
They might flavor it with beta carotene and maybe color it with a little chlorophyll to make it a little more green.
And so then you've got a lower quality, cheaper oil.
So both of these olive oils I got at the grocery store, and both of them are the store brand.
But one cost way more than the other.
This one had a label of 100% Mediterranean blend of extra virgin olive oil.
So the olives were sourced from a bunch of different European countries, and it said it was packed in Italy.
And there was no expiration date.
And when I purchased this one, this one was a 100% California extra virgin olive oil.
First pressed, cold pressed, unfiltered, no artificial colors, preservatives, or flavors.
And this one had an expiration date.
It said that these olives were harvested in October, November 2022, and that it would be good on your shelf until August 2024.
And it was much more expensive.
Roughly twice as much as this olive oil.
And this one had way more information about where this olive oil came from.
Now let's look at the spice market as another one that's vulnerable to fraud.
Think of an expensive spice like saffron.
This tiny amount cost me $20 at the store.
Saffron can be bulked up with some other material like plant stems and sold as the same, according to the FDA.
Popular spices like basil and chili powder from a range of different brands.
Anything that's kind of colored orange, brown and ground up can be passed off as turmeric.
It's the ultimate bait and switch.
And then there's fish.
The FDA says seafood fraud can occur when a less expensive species of fish is substituted for a more expensive species.
After all, it's kind of hard to know what fish you're buying, right?
If you're an experienced chef or fishmonger, you can look at like a red snapper fillet and tell whether it's red snapper.
But 99% of consumers can't.
You know, most of the fish we eat is white fish.
Every fillet looks pretty much the same, which is why there's so much substitution.
The FDA is mandated by law to inspect 2% of the imported seafood, which is, I think, a very, very low bar.
In fact, the U.S. imports as much as 85% of its fish.
Federal Fisheries Enforcement is serious business.
Agents from NOAA and U.S.
Customs tear open a container filled with frozen fish from Thailand.
They're looking for fraud.
First, it's important to understand the matrix that food fraud lives in.
There's intentional and unintentional types of food risk.
Unintentional risks include food safety and quality, like accidental foodborne illnesses.
CDC estimates about 50 million people a year contract a foodborne illness.
Only 20%, one in five of those, can be identified.
So there's, you know, 40 million people a year getting sick from something they ate that we don't know what it is.
And a good guess would be that fraud has something to do with that.
Then there's intentional.
That's where food fraud is alongside food defense.
The difference is fraud is motivated by economic gain and defense is motivated by harm.
If you have a ton of coffee and you can turn that into 1.2 tons by adding some cheap filler to it, you've just increased your profits by 20%.
And a lot of these products pass through a lot of hands.
They go from small growers to big trucks to tankers to boats to processing plants.
It's not necessarily like this big company that's selling you coffee that's ripping you off.
It can happen in a lot of ways along the way.
Even the FDA says it can't estimate how often this fraud happens or its economic impact.
Over the last 10 years, the most common fraud committed is lying about an animal's origin and dilution or substitution.
Both ranking at 16% of incidents recorded.
Dilution and substitution are exactly what they sound like.
Perhaps somewhere along the supply chain, the real expensive process of refining something like fresh olives is ignored.
Maybe a little canola oil is added instead.
Then there's the removal of value.
When an ingredient or part of a food is intentionally left out, taken out, or substituted altogether.
And that substitute can be a non-food substance.
That's the 14% of the recorded food fraud incidents using non-food substances.
The pandemic has given us a chance to focus on supply chains and forced us to.
For example, during the pandemic, labeling fraud really spiked in 2021 to 21% of the types of fraud that were committed and recorded.
You know, if we knew all about it, why hasn't it been solved?
The key was we weren't focusing on prevention.
Food fraud prevention, if we do it right, is boring.
We're the fire marshal checking exits and smoke alarms, not catching the bad guys.
The U.S. has laws in place to ensure food safety.
That's part of what the FDA does today.
Basically, all food fraud, all product fraud is illegal under one law or another somehow.
Before the FDA existed, manufacturers could add basically whatever they wanted into the food.
Think of Upton Sinclair's The Jungle.
That book was published in 1906.
That same year, food safety regulation began with the Meat Inspection Act and the Pure Food and Drugs Act, which outlawed adulterated and misbranded food items.
To protect consumers.
This ultimately led to the creation of the FDA.
The Food and Drug Administration.
Since then, laws have hit the books to further food safety protocols, like the Food Safety Modernization Act signed into law in 2011.
And then horsemeat hit.
The fraud was on a grand scale.
Horsemeat was blended into beef in the U.K., across Europe.
And sold to unsuspecting supermarkets for a period of eight months in 2012.
The scandal was exposed.
And that was a great wake-up call.
Some companies purposely mislead on labels.
Prosecuting the fraudsters committing the crime can be tricky.
After all, they're purposely trying to avoid that detection.
But criminals are caught.
Like in 2016.
Product labeled Market Pantry 100% Parmesan contained cheaper Swiss and cheddar cheese and an organic filler called cellulose, which can be derived from wood pulp.
Castle Cheese was caught adding wood pulp and cheddar to its grated Parmesan that they sold as 100% Parmesan cheese.
The FDA does allow fillers like cellulose in cheese, but it can only make up 4% of the total ingredients.
The president of the company got a $5,000 fine, 200 hours of community service and three years of probation.
For its part, the Food and Drug Administration says its job is to make sure food doesn't hurt you, not to police the labels.
Fraud is tough for the consumer in terms of food because it's difficult.
They don't have a lab in their kitchen.
The Food Fraud Prevention Think Tank has a five-question survey consumers can use when shopping for food.
One, what type of product is it?
Be aware of product that you put on you, in you, or plug in the wall.
Two, quality.
Can you recognize the difference between the products?
If you can't easily tell the difference, that makes you more vulnerable to fraud.
If I drink scotch, I couldn't tell if it's a difference between a $50 bottle and a $5,000 bottle.
So I know I could be deceived at that point.
Three, supplier.
Do you know the retailer or the supplier?
And do you trust them?
So when you turn that box of cereal or bottle of juice over and read the back, there's a lot of information there that's required by law that's helpful to the consumer.
And then question four, are you buying this item online?
The supply chain can be shrouded in more mystery when shopping online.
So how did you find out about this website?
Is it reputable?
It depends on how you find that supplier.
And finally, five, complain.
Okay, it's not a question, but the Food Fraud Prevention Think Tank says if the retailer is legit, they will want to know.
I think manufacturers can be the victims as well.
The FDA also relies on consumers' reports.
For some recent decades, fraudsters have gotten more sophisticated in the techniques they use to fake the food products.
And that means that our detection methods and our test methods and standards have to be better at detecting fraud.
That's why the U.S.
Pharmacopoeia Convention provides a framework for We have food fraud mitigation guidance.
So it is a supply chain risk management tool to really take a look at which ones are the more risky products suspected to be adulterated.
Sometimes it feels like this is not that big of a deal.
But the more fraudsters are able to achieve, the more we end up paying in the end as consumers.
These cases rarely result in criminal penalties.
If you want to be like a drug dealer and import heroin, and you get arrested on a large scale, you're going to go to jail.
But if you can make $80 million importing adulterated honey, and then you're going to get a slap on the wrist and some fines, why wouldn't you do food instead of drugs if there's no basically criminal downside to it?
So as long as we don't take it seriously, why should the perpetrators take it seriously?
What we want is the food industry just to be focused on making food and not have to worry about looking over our shoulder, checking different suppliers.
And that's going to impact more food being produced, better food, safer food, less expensive food.
There's plenty of things for us to worry about in the world today.
And food fraud should not be one of those.