Name: 俄羅斯戰爭如何讓帝王蟹成為挪威的大生意 (How Russia's War Made King Crab Big Business in Norway)
Uploaded: 2024-08-21T11:23:22.000Z
Duration: 9 min 2 s

In 1991, the 300-person village of Bugenes along Norway's far northern border with

1991 年，位於挪威最北部邊境的 300 人村莊布格內斯（Bugenes）發生了一場大地震。

The cod population had collapsed, depriving fishermen of income and the town of its only industry.

鱈魚數量銳減，剝奪了漁民的收入，也使小鎮失去了唯一的產業。

Around the same time the town placed an ad in the national newspaper looking to move all of its inhabitants to anywhere that would take them, a prehistoric-looking crustacean started showing up in the nets of local fishermen.

就在小鎮在全國性報紙上刊登廣告，希望將所有居民遷往任何地方的同時，一種史前模樣的甲殼類動物開始出現在當地漁民的漁網中。

Thanks to this invasive transplant, exported to Russia's west coast in the Stalin-era

由於這種入侵性的移植，在斯大林時代被出口到俄羅斯的西海岸

Soviet Union, and the invasion of Ukraine decades later, the village's fortunes have reversed.

幾十年後，由於蘇聯和烏克蘭的入侵，該村的命運發生了逆轉。

King crab came as a menace, but has been a savior.

帝王蟹來勢洶洶，卻成了救星。

All the countries is very hungry for crabs.

You can sell something for 700 kronors or 70 dollars from your fishing boat.

你可以在漁船上賣 700 克朗或 70 美元的東西。

Of course, that's big money, and in Bugenes you measure success in how many millionaires you have there.

當然，那是一大筆錢，在布吉尼斯，衡量成功與否的標準是那裡有多少百萬富翁。

It's a total shift in how you do fisheries.

In 2022, Russia controlled 94% of the market for king crab.

2022 年，俄羅斯控制了 94% 的帝王蟹市場。

That was until the nation's invasion of Ukraine and the sanctions on Russian seafood that came with it.

直到該國入侵烏克蘭，以及隨之而來的對俄羅斯海鮮的制裁。

Now there was only one place for the Western world to buy it.

現在，西方世界只有一個地方能買到它。

Once hated by the locals of Bugenes, suspicious that it was responsible for the decline in the population of cod, red king crab became an industry worth billions, a delicacy complete with foodie influencers singing its praises.

紅帝王蟹曾一度遭到布熱內斯當地人的憎恨，他們懷疑紅帝王蟹是鱈魚數量減少的罪魁禍首，但後來紅帝王蟹成為了一項價值數十億美元的產業，成為了一種美食，美食家們對其讚不絕口。

Hey foodie fam, if you love crab, this is your new favorite spot.

嘿，美食家們，如果你們喜歡吃螃蟹，這裡就是你們的新寵。

In the harbor where once three boats were docked, now there are hundreds.

在港口，過去只有三艘船停靠，現在則有數百艘。

Norway exported almost all of the 5.4 million pounds of king crab it caught in 2023, a 42% annual increase worth 110 million dollars.

2023 年，挪威幾乎出口了其捕獲的全部 540 萬磅帝王蟹，年增長率為 42%，價值 1.1 億美元。

One of the fishermen hauling in these mammoths is Erling Haugen.

埃林-豪根（Erling Haugen）是捕撈猛獁象的漁民之一。

So me and Tolef are owning this boat together, and I have another boat, it's an old boat.

我和托勒夫共同擁有這艘船，我還有一艘船，是艘舊船。

The first five years, it was nearly bankrupt every year, and I've been a fisherman for about 12 years now.

前五年，每年都幾乎破產，而我做漁民已經有 12 年了。

Before that I was starting with the Norwegian king crab factory, and I stayed there for about three, four years.

在那之前，我開始在挪威帝王蟹工廠工作，在那裡呆了大約三四年。

And then I understand that the fishermen have better days than I have, so then I quit and start fishing.

後來我明白，漁民們的日子比我好過，於是我辭職開始釣魚。

It's really cold, it's about 6 plus today.

今天真的很冷，大概有 6 度多。

It's a lot of crabs who have just molted.

You see here, these crabs we are throwing back to the sea, they have two damage here.

你看，這些被我們扔回海里的螃蟹，它們在這裡有兩處損傷。

As with damage there, damage to the small legs here, and then they have a very, very small claw.

這裡有損傷，這裡的小腿也有損傷，然後它們還有一個非常非常小的爪子。

So when they are losing their legs, it will grow out again, and this is a good quality crab.

是以，當它們失去腿時，腿會重新長出來，這就是優質螃蟹。

Apart from sanctions against Russia, prices for these bottom dwellers have remained sky high because of quotas put into place to keep the crab population healthy.

除了對俄羅斯的制裁外，這些底層生物的價格一直居高不下，原因是為了保持螃蟹數量的健康而設置了配額。

It's totally fair because it's overfished.

這是完全公平的，因為它被過度捕撈了。

It's about 60% lesser quota than last year.

It's about 730 kilos this year, and last year it was 2,300, yeah.

今年大約是 730 公斤，去年是 2300 公斤。

Along with the shipping of live king crab, a cottage industry of tourism has sprung up in the region for those who want to fish for themselves.

隨著活帝王蟹的運輸，該地區還興起了為那些想親自捕撈的人提供服務的家庭旅遊業。

Advertisements for king crab safaris dot the landscape.

帝王蟹野生動物園的廣告隨處可見。

That is plastic industry, it's a kind of Disneyland.

這就是塑料工業，是一種迪斯尼樂園。

I'm not 100% sure, but some of them are catching crabs, place it on the waiting pods, and then they're going over to tourists and, wow, look, here is a lot of crabs.

我不是百分百確定，但他們中的一些人正在抓螃蟹，把螃蟹放在等待的豆莢上，然後他們走過去對遊客說，哇，看，這裡有很多螃蟹。

But they already have catch it, so it's tricky things.

但他們已經抓住了，所以事情很棘手。

Tourism and quotas are something that the mayor of nearby Kirkenes sees as a part of building a sustainable region.

附近基爾克內斯市的市長認為，旅遊業和配額是建設可持續發展地區的一部分。

Welcome to the most exciting city in the world, in Europe.

歡迎來到世界上最令人興奮的歐洲城市。

You're now three and a half hours away from Sevemorsk, where the Northern Fleet and Russian nuclear subs are at port.

你們現在距離 Sevemorsk 還有三個半小時的路程，那裡是北方艦隊和俄羅斯核潛艇的停靠港。

If you're a municipality experiencing optimism in fish farming and fishery, this is the place to be, and this is the place to visit.

如果你是一個正在經歷養魚業和漁業樂觀主義的市鎮，這裡就是你的理想之地，也是你的必訪之地。

You have to have some principles in politics.

If you base your politics on populism, in the end, you will hurt yourself.

如果你把政治建立在民粹主義的基礎上，最終你會傷害自己。

My freedom stops where your freedom starts, and without quotas for king crab, it will not be sustainable, and then we're stealing from the future generations.

我的自由始於你的自由，沒有帝王蟹的配額，它將無法持續，那我們就是在偷竊子孫後代的東西。

With tourism, more money flows into our society.

隨著旅遊業的發展，更多的資金流入我們的社會。

More people get a job, a high-paying job, an exciting job.

更多的人找到工作，一份高薪的工作，一份令人興奮的工作。

So I believe that if we try to build a bigger travel industry, we as well build a more modern and urban society.

是以，我相信，如果我們努力做大旅遊業，我們也會建設一個更加現代化和城市化的社會。

The fish factory went bankrupt in the late 80s.

Along the coastline of Finnmark, many factories went bankrupt.

沿著芬馬克的海岸線，許多工廠紛紛破產。

It was closed for many years, and then it was only the building standing left.

它關閉了很多年，後來只剩下這座建築屹立不倒。

Today's owners bought the factory and started this development of the way of buying crabs, keep them alive inside the factory for days, weeks.

今天的老闆買下了這家工廠，並開始發展這種購買螃蟹的方式，讓它們在工廠裡活上幾天、幾周。

So these barrels are now packed with crabs, king crabs.

是以，這些桶裡現在裝滿了螃蟹，帝王蟹。

There is 225, 230 kilo-ish of king crabs inside.

裡面有 225、230 公斤左右的帝王蟹。

We have seawater flowing in, and also added air so the crabs can survive during the stay in there.

我們有海水注入，還添加了空氣，這樣螃蟹就能在裡面存活下來。

And then when the truck arrives, we put these barrels into the truck, and also in the truck we have air hoses which we connect.

然後當卡車到達時，我們把這些桶放進卡車，卡車上還有連接空氣的軟管。

We are driving for two and a half, three days, so the crabs stay alive.

我們要開兩天半到三天的車，這樣螃蟹才能活下來。

I would say that our parents' generation fed us with frozen seafood, and now the younger generation want to have the knowledge where the seafood or the food is coming from.

我想說的是，我們的父輩用冷凍海鮮餵養我們，而現在年輕一代希望瞭解海鮮或食物的來源。

We are tagging every individual crab we have.

我們正在給每一隻螃蟹貼標籤。

Into that QR code we are using, we are adding information about the fishermen, we are adding some history into that, telling the fishermen's story, and also the size of the crabs.

在我們使用的二維碼中，我們添加了有關漁民的資訊，還添加了一些歷史，講述漁民的故事，以及螃蟹的大小。

And now you can see this is a strong, vital crab.

現在你可以看到，這是一隻強壯、有生命力的螃蟹。

I can feel his legs are full of meat, 80 to 90 percent fill.

我能感覺到他的腿上滿是肉，有 80% 到 90% 都是肉。

What is the weight on this one, let's see, 2.5 kilo.

這個重量是多少，讓我想想，2.5 公斤。

You can find the catch of date, the tag number, and also this is, let's say, cold when you are selling this crab, yeah.

你可以找到捕獲日期、標籤號，還可以在出售這隻螃蟹時找到冷凍標籤。

Despite sanctions against Russia, Russian crab keeps making its way into Western markets.

儘管俄羅斯受到制裁，但俄羅斯螃蟹仍不斷進入西方市場。

In 2019, Norwegian police uncovered a network that was illegally catching and exporting 100,000 pounds of Red King crab.

2019 年，挪威警方破獲了一個非法捕撈和出口 10 萬磅紅帝王蟹的網絡。

Organized crime is organized crime, and people that openly violate sanctions against Russia are making money on the blood spilled in Ukraine.

有組織犯罪就是有組織犯罪，那些公然違反對俄製裁的人正在利用烏克蘭的流血事件賺錢。

When you have such an extremely fine product as a King crab, it's a high-cost product, it's for the high-end restaurants, then there will always be bad apples.

像帝王蟹這樣的極品，成本高，面向高端餐廳，總會有 "壞蘋果"。

With this product, of course, the income for fishermen are more predictable, and that money is going back to the local society.

當然，有了這種產品，漁民的收入就更可預測，這些錢也會回到當地社會。

So the King crab in the past, and today, and in the future, is creating jobs in this small society.

是以，無論是過去、今天還是未來，帝王蟹都在為這個小社會創造就業機會。

With the King crab, you have a sure income.

有了帝王蟹，你就有了可靠的收入。

It's easier to fish with King crab pods than with traditional cod fishing.

與傳統的鱈魚捕撈相比，帝王蟹莢更容易捕撈。

The revenue is huge, and the profits are huge.

It gives a small society like Søvranger, and especially Bugenäs, a strong pillar of economy.

它為索夫朗厄爾這樣的小社會，尤其是布格納斯，提供了強大的經濟支柱。

It's unknown how sturdy that pillar can be.

這根柱子能有多結實，還是個未知數。

Snow and King crab fisheries in Alaska have been suspended in recent years due to high temperatures beyond what the species can take.

由於溫度過高，超出了雪蟹和帝王蟹的承受能力，近年來阿拉斯加的雪蟹和帝王蟹漁業已經暫停。

According to a 2018 study, temperatures around the Barents Sea have sharply increased since the mid-2000s.

根據 2018 年的一項研究，自 2000 年代中期以來，巴倫支海周圍的氣溫急劇上升。

We know that the seawater temperature is going up.

不是很多，但已經顯示出來了。

 But it's, of course, difficult to say if this species, King crab, is affected by that.

當然，很難說帝王蟹這一物種是否受此影響。

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俄羅斯戰爭如何讓帝王蟹成為挪威的大生意 (How Russia's War Made King Crab Big Business in Norway)

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industry