I cut that, round it, thread it, pull it out, machine off the back, we're gonna do that, we're gonna make one, and we're gonna make some measurements so that we can assembly line it,

I should clean up, but I've been waiting for these pins for a long time, so I'm just gonna cut this piece right now, all right, I need to,

I need to, I have a chuck that holds 5C collets, but I also have a holder for 5C collets, and I think I'm gonna use that with my six draw here, I think that's faster than swapping out the chuck and all of the rigmarole of tightening it down 12 times, this is what the holder looks like, it is, um, again, holding systems, everything but the four jaw chuck is a compromise, that's the one that's accurate, oh yeah, so there's your proof of concept right there, those are all the pieces, yeah, yeah, this is gonna be so freaking cool, so this is the piece that will be cut down,

I'm gonna do a little relief here, and then from this line forward, it's gonna get turned down to a six millimeter shaft, all right, so I'm about to put this in here, and uh, the machinists watching will be saying to yourselves, hey now, wait a second, Mr. Savage, that holder you're chucking that into is not as strong, sorry, it's not as accurate as other ways of holding on to this work, and you would be right, I would say that I could be off by a few thou here, a couple thou, um, and the answer is, that doesn't really matter too much in this specific regard, so six so on the nose so so so all right now I just need to do a little machining here.

So what you can see here is that's the thread I just cut that's the back side of the rack

I'm going to come in with a ball end mill and create that relief there.

So that's great I'm really happy with that. Okay so actually I want to see how that fits in here.

And this is the um okay so I can put these guys all back there.

That's it right there.

Oh that's how this that's how this works.

That is how they all work. Look at that I'm really happy with that. Okay so

I need to make 12. I need to make 12 of those.

All right I am just so pleased with how this came out.

The the the real thing is it's like sorry with a job like this every last thing will take you crazy amounts of time and I already want to remove the hex heads from these. I want to make them flat heads. So every one of these 12 shoulder bolts that's what these are um they're shoulder bolts that are 0.1 millimeter smaller in diameter than the whole of these spur gears. But that's a purchasable item and so is that. But because I'm going to modify that

I didn't want to have to manufacture everything. So the spur gears came as an ordered item and so did the pins. These are hardened dowel pins and I didn't even know you could get dowel pins threaded and that you could get them threaded in only one end. So that the only two parts I really have to make for the main mechanics of this are the ring gear and 12 of these little threaded racks that go into the pins. And once I get the correct depth on all of these I will put in a little Loctite in there so that they will stay. These will ride in reamed eight millimeter sorry 12 millimeter holes. Oh do I have a 12 millimeter ream? I'll have to double check that.

Anyway I couldn't be more pleased with how this is all coming along.

That sound you hear is my hacksaw still attempting to make it all the way through the bolt to around.

While that's happening I have worked out a system for making this little part. It begins with a piece cut roughly to size like this that I then where is it there it is that I then chuck into my square holder and at the bottom of this holder is a stop. This is an installable stop for the back of a 5c collet. So I figure out my hero end here and I put it in and I can't put it farther than that. That allows me to make the same cut on every single piece. So then I chuck this back into the lathe and tighten it down. Hang on. I don't need to tighten it. I don't need to how do you say this? I don't need to tighten it to tighten it. I put it in the jaws and I have this set on low so it's very hard to move this and that'll allow me to get my um my wrench for this in and bring it around and with the 5c's like this you'll feel it stop. There you go and now we turn it around.

We bring it up to the edge here. Again I can be a little funky with spacing. It doesn't have to be perfect.

Go back to high speed. Bring this in and now on here up here I'm bringing this into six actually I'm going to bring this into six and a half millimeters.

All right there's six and that would be really exact. That's good. All right um so then so and I'm bringing in to exactly I'm bringing just under six millimeters here we go.

There we are. It's a little bit under.

Then I give it a little relief out at the end. There we go. Now I bring it back into low gear so it's hard to move and now it's time to thread it with the die. So here's how that works.

This is the die and oh right we bring this out.

I'm sorry about the noise but it's all part of the narrative.

So then we hold the die here and we bring in that and the front of this keeps this flat and perpendicular to the threading. You'd be surprised how far off you can get if you are just trying to do this freehand. Having a backstop that is constantly a reference flat is pretty much mission critical for using a die like this.

And again your threads being perfectly perpendicular might not be what you need which is fine and when I get towards the end I'll feel it soften up on the relief. There we go. It gets a little easier. Now I'll pull this back.

I will put this in the low gear. I'm just going to use this to unwind it.

Pop this out and then we loosen it here.

And the loosening is easy because you just got to get it to break the traction. So now this is wedged in here and it doesn't want to move and I don't want to tap there because even though that's a stop for the stop it can move. So I'm going to come on over here. I know the noise is awful but it's like it'll make it that much more awesome when it's done. So in order to be able to tap on this to unset the wedgie poo that's going on here I'm going to put this hardened steel bushing over here and I'm just going to give it a little tap.

All right.

There we go. And then that allows me to

There we go. And then that allows me to pop that guy off and place him next to his brothers.

Understand these are slightly different sizes. That's fine. I'll cut all those down to be the same. It's these that need to be pretty even with each other and they are. Yeah. So that's

Yeah. So that's six down. One, two, three, four, five, six and six to go. Plus one extra.

Okay. I am so I'm freaking excited because I've just come to understand why

I understand why vault doors have the number of teeth that they do.

First up the 24 teeth. That is absolutely because on a standard machine shop dividing head you can divide a circle into 24 sections pretty easily without having to muck around very much. That is an easy setting for a rotary table. So that's where it starts. It starts with the spur gear and because what I have are 12 spur gears arrayed around a ring gear. If you want to array them evenly the ring gears number of teeth has to have 12 as a divisor otherwise you won't be able to array them evenly. Further once they are all arrayed evenly then all the pins move the same exact way. These parts if I had to make these again I think I'd make them in a slightly different way.

I may make this a second time. We don't know. But late in the construction of these I realized that their teeth all had to line up. If you took two of these and lined them up like this their teeth needed to line up and I made that happen at the end. That may be what makes this look right because if you don't have them all ending at the same place they won't be even as they array around the hole and they won't look perfect. Okay so the next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to screw all the pins on just because I want to see it like that and then what am I going to do?

This is going to be a week before I come back to the shop but the next thing I'm going to do is I'm actually going to turn the body

I'm going to turn a vault door body out of acrylic out of cast acrylic because it's going to be absolutely beautiful and I will drill and ream the 12 millimeter radial holes for this and I'll basically work out the mechanical arrangement of my vault door while I'm still cutting. Six days of cutting. Six or seven days of cutting but we'll get there.

Okay here is the ring gear. This is the second one. I want to test fit operation and that means that

I want to try and get this spinning and the pins moving. I'm not going to do that in steel because we're still cutting away here. So I this morning I came in and cut and turned this piece of inch and a quarter inch and a quarter cast acrylic into a perfect six inch round.

How did I do this? I did it on the table saw. I cut it into a square then I cut off the corners on the bandsaw and then I sanded the rest. If you are going to work with big chunks of acrylic work with cast rather than extruded. The cast stuff does not get nearly as melty and for big cuts like this it can be a real pain in the ass. So I'm going to chuck this back into the lathe and I'm going to cut a a groove with a standoff that fits this exactly. Once I have that then I'm going to start to dimension how the pins get cut into this and how to do some work holding on this.

But first and foremost the first cut is the slip cut for that ring which I believe is two inches so this is the middle of an annular cutter. It's a nice finished surface it is um it is I believe two inches plus about three thousandths.

Yeah we're gonna we're gonna get this really really nice.

Ah okay so

So

Better. So that in, that in. That's promising. Let's see about this guy.

Ah, so yeah, ladies and germs. Okay, so there are so many moving parts. I know that there's actually many moving parts. But okay, if you are measuring something, let's say you are measuring a foot, which is 12 inches, and you use something that is an inch long, and you put it end to end 12 times, that is a reasonable way of measuring a foot. Except that you need to be positive that your measurement increment is exact. Because if it is over or under, what will happen as you add it to itself is you will get what I call in my head an introduced error, a compounding error. And when you have many things that are connected to each other geometrically, which is effectively what this is, it's radial, but it's a, it's a geometrical relationship. Any, like, if it goes like this, when I cut this, if there is, I got this, and I measured this at eight by eight millimeters, but what if it's eight times 7.9 millimeters? In that case, if some of these are cut at 7.9, and some of them are cut at eight, because I didn't match the squaricity, that could mean that one of these pins does not engage when I build the actual vault door. So first of all, building it temporarily is completely mission critical on something like this. I was thinking in my head about a mnemonic of like, you build it once to put it in your body. And you build it the second time to put it in your head. And then you build it the third time to put it in the world. That sounded clever to me. I may only build this twice. But okay, so here's a couple of things I realized. I realized that, let me get another one of these guys out. I realized that my racks, which I'm happy with their shape, are non-identical.

And the practical result of non-identical means that this one, where this one is cut, re, the teeth is ever so different when this one is cut. Because I didn't think that was mission critical when I started. It is mission critical reader, which means that in order to do it for real, I'm going to need to make a fixture that holds all of these pieces exactly so that the cut and the tooth start, the relationship between the end and the first tooth is exactly, I'm talking within a 10th of a millimeter on every single one. A 10th of a millimeter, smaller than that. Smaller than that. It's got to be within a thousandth. Seriously, I think. At any rate. Let's see here. I'm going to pull the pins out. And I want to, of course, I'm going to like take this home and moon over it. Think about it. Come on, come on. I also didn't set up my rotary table correctly. So these don't actually travel through center, which is not actually necessarily a bad thing in terms of the geometric relationship. But yeah, no, there it's. Functionally, that doesn't change what I needed to learn from this. And the, the, the one unique addition I made to this, which was to rest my 12 spur gears on an adjustable ring that sits in a track here that can adjust the depthing of all 12 spurs at once. But that also means that when I go to drill out this piece, which I'm going to cut like four of these, and I think I can do two whole patterns per. At any rate, the depthing matters mightily. Depthing is the, the relationship between the gears, because you don't want the bottoming out. You don't want them too far out here. There is an optimal relationship as gears mess. That's the depthing is to find that. And this allows me some very fine control of the depthing without having to handle this, what will be a giant piece of steel metal. So I'm really happy with this. That's great. I'm still over the moon about cutting a modulus 0.5 gear. And I think this is like a reasonable place to stop this. This is the test build. So when I'm going to get through that thing, as to when I'm going to cut through the big chunk of steel, any day now, any day now.

Um, I gotta say, just like looking at that, I'm, I'm like, really, please, that's really lovely. I'm very, very happy with how all this is looking. And, you know, that slip fit is absolutely vital. That engagement, absolutely vital. Yeah, see, I think this is I, I don't think this is a true, I'm one man. I don't have to think out loud anymore. I believe I have gotten to a stopping point for this one day build. Vault doors remain beautiful and ever so slightly elusive to me. I also have to start to work out the locking mechanism, which is another non trivial bit of engineering. And the opening system, there's, there's, there's two more systems to functionally operate. So the locking one, I believe that what I have discovered, I believe that what I have surmised is that vault doors tended to have a, to operate this ring gear, they didn't use some sort of lever arrangement to push on the ring gear. They simply went to one of the spur gears through the door. So it'd be like if this is the three o'clock position, that's where the final turn crank is for turning that which turns that which will spin the ring gear and bring all of the all of the pins in. Yeah, it's gonna be really neat. And then that means that I think I'm going to cut this ring gear thinner. I think I'm gonna cut it a lot thinner. I'm gonna cut out meat there out of that middle. And then obviously, this will get machined out of the middle here so that a mechanism can go in to both lock this and unlock it so that it can be turned.

Yeah, thanks for joining me guys. Next time, let's do it for real.

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