MICHAEL PALIN | Pole to Pole | Shifting Sands | NORTH AFRICA | EPISODE - 4 (MICHAEL PALIN | Pole to Pole | Shifting Sands | NORTH AFRICA | EPISODE - 4)

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["Pomp and Circumstance"] ["Pomp and Circumstance"]

["盛況空前"] ["盛況空前"]
Sudan, the biggest country in Africa, is an overnight ferry ride from Egypt.

蘇丹是非洲最大的國家，從埃及乘渡輪一夜即可到達。
But life here is very different.

但這裡的生活卻截然不同。
Sudan does not encourage visitors.

蘇丹不鼓勵遊客。
Now we get to Wadi Halfa.

現在我們來到瓦迪哈法。
Wadi Halfa, is there a bus?

瓦迪哈爾法，有公車嗎？
Wadi Halfa, there's a bus.

瓦迪哈爾法，有一輛巴士。
Bus? Where's the bus?

巴士？公車在哪裡？
Bus?

公車？
Yeah, we just want to know how to get to Wadi Halfa.

是的，我們只想知道如何前往瓦迪哈法。
Halfa?

哈爾法？
Yeah.

是啊
Okay, Halfa is near here.

好了，哈爾法就在附近
Yeah, it's near here.

對，就在附近
I thought it was here, but it's not.

我以為它在這裡，但它不在。
How far?

多遠？
How far? I don't know.

有多遠？我不知道
Okay.

好的
Is it too far to walk?

走路會不會太遠？
Too far to walk?

走路太遠？
Or bus, or what?

還是公車，還是什麼？
Car.

汽車
Okay, where's the car?

好吧，車在哪？
Okay, well, if you point me the way, I'll...

好吧，如果你給我指路，我...
It all seems to be going swimmingly, when suddenly, my guide isn't there anymore.

一切似乎都很順利，但突然間，我的嚮導不在了。
I've been in unfamiliar places on this trip, but never felt quite such an outsider.

這一路上，我去過很多陌生的地方，但從沒覺得自己是個局外人。
What is this country all about?

這個國家到底是怎麼回事？
Staunch ally of Saddam Hussein, supporter of the Russian generals and their coup against Gorbachev?

薩達姆-侯賽因的堅定盟友，俄羅斯將軍及其反對戈爾巴喬夫政變的支持者？
Well, I'd better start finding out.

好吧，我最好開始找找看。
This is the car to go to Wadi Halfa?

這是去瓦迪哈勒法的車嗎？
Yes.

是的。
Okay, you go to the hotel from Wadi Halfa, the centre.

好的，你從瓦迪哈法（Wadi Halfa）中心前往酒店。
Ah.

啊。
Well, Sudan is clearly a very eccentric country.

蘇丹顯然是一個非常古怪的國家。
If I'm going to get the most out of life here,

如果我想從這裡的生活中得到最大的收穫、
I think I'd better forget I've ever been anywhere else in the world.

我想我最好忘了我曾去過世界上其他任何地方。
This is new Wadi Halfa.

這是新的瓦迪哈爾法。
The old town disappeared under the waters of Lake Nasser 29 years ago.

29 年前，老城消失在納賽爾湖的湖水中。
Despite its name, the best hotel now only looks out over desert sands.

儘管名為最好的酒店，但它現在只能看到沙漠的沙灘。
Hello.

你好
Hello.

你好
Have you got a room?

你有房間嗎？
Yeah.

是啊
Welcome.

歡迎光臨
Thank you.

謝謝。
I've got to catch the train.

我得去趕火車了
That goes tomorrow?

明天就走？
Yes, tomorrow.

是的，明天。
Four and a half o'clock.

四點半
Fine.

很好
Yes, the station in front of us.

是的，就在我們前面的車站。
Yes.

是的。
And that is the station.

這就是車站。
Good, okay.

很好
So just a short walk.

所以只需走一小段路。
Would I just like a room, please?

請給我一個房間好嗎？
Yes, welcome.

是的，歡迎。
The owner has photos of the old Nile Hotel with balconies and river views.

店主提供了尼羅河老酒店的照片，照片中的酒店擁有陽臺和河景。
Now it's definitely a no-frills service.

現在，這絕對是一項不折不扣的服務。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
The darkness is comforting.

黑暗是一種安慰。
In the Sudan, a bit of shade is worth the price of admission alone.

在蘇丹，光是一點綠蔭就值回票價了。
But...

但是
98.4.

98.4.
That's what it should be.

就應該這樣。
In Wadi Halfa, the hottest part of the day lasts from 9 in the morning till 9 in the evening.

在瓦迪哈勒法，一天中最熱的時候從早上 9 點持續到晚上 9 點。
At sunset, I visit Abdullah Ahmed Adam, the governor who'd made our ferry trip possible.

日落時分，我拜訪了阿卜杜拉-艾哈邁德-亞當，是他促成了我們的渡輪之旅。
What's the travel news?

旅遊新聞是什麼？
The train is supposed to take about 48 hours.

這趟列車應該需要大約 48 小時。
But due to some difficulties, sometimes it takes more.

但由於一些困難，有時需要更多時間。
What sort of difficulties might we encounter?

我們會遇到什麼樣的困難？
Maybe the pulling force for the locomotives.

也許是機車的牽引力。
And...

還有
any maintenance, maybe.

任何維護，也許。
Do you yourself travel by train?

您自己也坐火車嗎？
Yes, definitely.

是的，當然。
My last journey from Khartoum, I came by train.

我上次從喀土穆出發，是坐火車來的。
With my whole family.

和全家人一起
Are there any problems?

有什麼問題嗎？
No problems.

沒問題
By next morning, the Nile Hotel is full to bursting.

第二天一早，尼羅河酒店已經爆滿。
Today is the day of the train.

今天是火車日。
The water jars are all empty, but I'm directed to the executive washroom.

水罐都是空的，但我被指引到行政洗手間。
Washed and brushed up,

洗刷乾淨
I go in search of food for the journey ahead.

我去尋找前行的食物。
The train from Khartoum, which should run twice a week, has just arrived for the first time in a month.

從喀土穆開來的火車本應每週兩班，但一個月來首次抵達。
The resources of Wadi Hausha are at full stretch.

Hausha 旱谷的資源已被充分利用。
There's no famine here, but no surplus either.

這裡沒有饑荒，但也沒有過剩。
And no cave.

沒有洞穴
I've been there before.

我以前去過那裡。
I dont understand.

我不明白。
Why would I go inside a cave?

我為什麼要進山洞？
And where's the crowbar?

撬棍呢？
What?

什麼？
Where did I take them?

我把它們帶到哪裡去了？
To the sinkhole.

去天坑
To the glassware?!

給玻璃器皿？
Orderly, indeed.

確實井然有序。
Where should I go?

我應該去哪裡？
There's no surplus either.

也沒有盈餘。
What fresh food there is quickly deteriorates in the heat.

僅有的新鮮食物在高溫下很快就會變質。
Fruit seems to be the most sensible bet.

水果似乎是最明智的選擇。
Can I have some bananas?

我能吃點香蕉嗎？
Can I have some bananas?

我能吃點香蕉嗎？
How much?

多少錢？
I have Egyptian money.

我有埃及的錢
Is that okay?

這樣可以嗎？
Can I pay with Egyptian money?

我可以用埃及貨幣付款嗎？
Kilo?

基洛？
Yeah, kilo.

是啊，公斤。
Can you measure me a kilo?

能給我量一公斤嗎？
How much is that?

多少錢？
I only have Egyptian.

我只有埃及文。
No?

不是嗎？
No Egyptian.

沒有埃及人
No Egyptian?

沒有埃及人？
Where can I change the money?

在哪裡可以換錢？
Where in Wadi Hausha can I change the money?

在 Wadi Hausha 的什麼地方可以換錢？
Is there a bank?

有銀行嗎？
No.

不
Hotel maybe?

也許是酒店？
Okay, but you won't sell me anything for Egyptian money?

好吧，但你不會為了埃及人的錢賣給我任何東西吧？
No?

不是嗎？
Armed with Sudanese pounds, I try again.

拿著蘇丹鎊，我再次嘗試。
Can I buy some tins?

我能買幾罐嗎？
Can I buy some tins of food?

我能買幾罐食物嗎？
What have you got?

你有什麼發現？
Chicken?

雞？
What is it?

是什麼？
Can you show me what it is?

你能告訴我這是什麼嗎？
What is this?

這是什麼？
This?

這個？
No, tin.

不，錫。
That's right.

這就對了。
This?

這個？
Yeah, he knows.

他知道
That's right.

這就對了。
This?

這個？
Yes.

是的。
What's that?

那是什麼？
What is this?

這是什麼？
Maling?

馬林？
Yes.

是的。
Fried young chicken.

炸嫩雞
Chinese.

中文。
That's good?

這樣好嗎？
Yes, okay.

是的，好的。
For the train, yes.

對於火車來說，是的。
I'll have one of those.

我要一個
Have you anything else?

你還有別的事嗎？
Oh, that's it.

哦，就是這樣。
Stewed chicken with bone.

帶骨燉雞
Good.

很好。
Okay.

好的
How much?

多少錢？
40.

40.
Is that enough?

這就夠了嗎？
130.

130.
130?

130?
Oh, dear.

哦，天哪
Just two chicken.

只有兩隻雞
Thank you.

謝謝。
The hardest thing of all to find is fresh bread.

最難找的是新鮮麵包。
Do you have a bag?

你有包嗎？
Oh, I've got to put them in there.

哦，我得把它們放進去。
Banana sandwich.

香蕉三明治
There we go.

好了
Yep.

是的。
How much?

多少錢？
150.

150.
150?

150?
Yes.

是的。
Okay.

好的
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
What a nice shelter, isn't it?

多好的庇護所啊，不是嗎？
Yep.

是的。
How much?

多少錢？
How much?

多少錢？
That's 75, eh?

這是 75，是嗎？
Any change?

有變化嗎？
Change?

改變？
Okay.

好的
That's 75.

這是75。
All right.

好吧
Thank you very much.

非常感謝。
The train standing at platform one is the Nile Valley Express, once the pride of the British Empire.

站在一號站臺的列車是尼羅河谷快車，它曾是大英帝國的驕傲。
Now, as Sudan's problems increase and the economy crumbles, it's an erratic and declining service.

現在，隨著蘇丹問題的增多和經濟的崩潰，這項服務也變得不穩定且日漸式微。
But there's an air of festivity here that you'd never find at Waterloo or Grand Central.

但這裡的節日氣氛是滑鐵盧或中央車站所無法比擬的。
On the day of the train, Wadi Halfa station is one big party.

火車開行當天，瓦迪哈爾法車站就是一個大派對。
How nice to see you.

見到你真高興
Come to make sure we go.

來確保我們去。
Come to make sure we go.

來確保我們去。
The train's here, we're here, so thank you very much.

火車到了，我們也到了，非常感謝。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Fine.

很好
You know, I've been here for...

你知道，我在這裡已經...
For us?

為我們？
Yes.

是的。
Oh, thank you.

哦，謝謝。
Dates!

日期
I was trying to buy these this morning with no success.

我今天早上想買這些，但沒有成功。
These look wonderful.

這些看起來棒極了。
How do you like it?

你覺得怎麼樣？
We all have one.

我們都有一個。
We all like it.

我們都喜歡。
How is it?

怎麼樣？
Very nice indeed.

確實不錯。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Thank you very, very much.

非常非常感謝。
There's a heightened sense of drama to life in the Sudan.

蘇丹的生活充滿了戲劇性。
A simple thing like departure isn't just the start of a journey, it's the start of an adventure.

出發這樣一件簡單的事情不僅是旅程的開始，也是冒險的開始。
And like all good adventures, none of us knows quite how it's going to end.

就像所有美好的冒險一樣，我們都不知道結局會如何。
Bye.

再見。
Thank you.

謝謝。
Bye.

再見。
This long straight line runs 230 miles across the Nubian desert, avoiding the impassable rapids of the Nile and connecting Wadi Halfa with the cities of Atbara and Khartoum.

這條直線長達 230 英里，橫跨努比亞沙漠，避開了尼羅河難以逾越的急流，將瓦迪哈爾法與阿特巴拉和喀土穆兩座城市連接起來。
It's a single-track railway through the middle of nowhere.

這是一條穿越荒郊野外的單軌鐵路。
All we can do is pray that the train keeps going.

我們所能做的就是祈禱火車繼續前進。
Well, this is the third time we've stopped in about...

這已經是我們第三次在...
Well, we've been going about... It's half past 12, about seven hours.

我們一直在...12點半了，大約7個小時
The previous two times have both been breakdowns.

前兩次都發生了故障。
One was just a vacuum pipe onto the cafeteria and the next was rather more ominous.

一個只是通向食堂的真空管道，而另一個則更加不祥。
It was a one-hour breakdown of the locomotive.

機車故障持續了一個小時。
And once that goes, we could be here for days or even a week.

而一旦發生這種情況，我們可能要在這裡待上幾天甚至一個星期。
I mean, if the locomotive breaks, there's nothing much they can do but wait around till it's fixed.

我的意思是，如果火車頭壞了，他們也沒辦法，只能等著修好。
So I just don't know what's going on.

所以我不知道發生了什麼事。
We're moving very, very slowly.

我們的進展非常非常緩慢。
That's the superintendent.

那是總監。
That's what's happened.

事情就是這樣。
Let's see if I can see him.

看看我能不能見到他。
I never do find anyone to tell me what's happening, but next morning we're still moving.

我一直找不到人告訴我發生了什麼事，但第二天早上我們還在前進。
These identical desert stations have no names, only numbers.

這些一模一樣的沙漠車站沒有名字，只有編號。
This man could be the stationmaster of number 5, 6, 7 or 8.

這個人可能是 5、6、7 或 8 號站的站長。
The line was built by General Kitchener's army to retake Khartoum and avenge the death of General Gordon.

基奇納將軍的軍隊修建了這條防線，以奪回喀土穆併為戈登將軍復仇。
Working in one of the hottest places on earth, engineers laid a mile of this track every two days.

工程師們在地球上最炎熱的地方之一工作，每兩天鋪設一英里的軌道。
How do they look after it now?

他們現在如何照顧它？
When I looked out last night, we seemed to be always surrounded by sand.

昨晚，當我放眼望去，我們似乎總是被沙子包圍著。
There was a wind blowing the sand.

有風吹起了沙子。
Is that a big problem for the engine?

這對發動機來說是個大問題嗎？
Yeah. Sand's coming over the line, covering the line sometimes.

是的沙子有時會越過防線，覆蓋在防線上。
Yeah.

是啊
So the labourers come and take it away from the track.

於是，工人們來把它從軌道上搬走。
Do you bring labourers with you on the train to do that?

你會在火車上帶工人來做這件事嗎？
Yeah. Two or three labourers.

是的兩三個工人
How often?

多久一次？
By their materials, which...

這些材料...
Yeah.

是啊
Taking off the sand.

脫掉沙子
The good news about the Nile Valley Express, it does have a restaurant car.

尼羅河谷快車的好消息是，它確實有一輛餐廳車廂。
The bad news, this is it.

壞消息是，就這樣了。
Tea? Tea? Chang?

茶？茶？張？
Thank you.

謝謝。
Cucumber sandwiches.

黃瓜三明治
And a dessert menu.

還有一份甜點菜單。
No, a desert menu.

不，是沙漠菜單。
Mind you, this isn't the only restaurant.

請注意，這並不是唯一一家餐廳。
Roof class have their own catering.

屋頂班有自己的餐飲服務。
Everyone up here travels free, and there are plenty of punters willing to risk sun, sand and sliding off into the desert.

這裡的每個人都是自由行，有很多人願意冒著被太陽、沙子和沙漠滑倒的風險。
Some I spoke to were surprised we didn't travel like this in England.

與我交談過的一些人對我們在英國沒有這樣的旅行感到驚訝。
I explained to them about bridges.

我向他們解釋了橋樑。
Sleep well? Sleep well?

睡得好嗎？睡得好嗎？
It's a great view.

視野很好
It's a great view.

視野很好
It's better than first class.

比頭等艙還好
You know, you've got a better view.

你知道，你的視野更好。
It's not so hot.

沒那麼熱
It's not hot.

不熱。
It's just very fine.

就是非常好。
Very fine.

非常好。
Better than society.

比社會更好
Hmm?

嗯？
Better than society, yes.

是的，比社會好。
Yeah.

是啊
They're all crammed together down there in first class.

他們都擠在頭等艙裡。
One cup of tea amongst ten of them.

十個人喝一杯茶。
Where are you going to?

你要去哪裡？
Khartoum.

喀土穆。
Khartoum.

喀土穆。
Do you always travel on the...

您是否經常乘坐...
Hmm?

嗯？
Do you always travel like this on top of the train?

你總是這樣在火車頂上旅行嗎？
Yes, sometimes.

是的，有時。
Sometimes.

有時
But when the day is too hot, or in the middle of the day, you have to get inside the bus.

但是，如果天氣太熱，或者正值中午，你就必須坐進公共汽車裡。
What happens in the middle of the day today?

今天中午會發生什麼？
It's going to be very hot.

天氣會很熱
It was 110 in the sun yesterday.

昨天太陽下的溫度高達 110 度。
What happens today in the heat of the day?

今天的酷暑會發生什麼？
Do you go and find some shade?

你會去找個陰涼處嗎？
Shade?

陰影？
Yeah.

是啊
Do you get out of the sun on a day like today?

像今天這樣的天氣，你會晒太陽嗎？
Yes.

是的。
Get inside the bus.

上車
There are 3,000 to 4,000 passengers on the Nile Valley Express.

尼羅河谷快車上有 3,000 至 4,000 名乘客。
It's like a small town on the moon.

這裡就像月球上的一個小鎮。
The rate of progress is governed less by timetables than by the needs of the townsfolk.

進展速度與其說是受時間表的制約，不如說是受鄉親們需求的制約。
Bye.

再見。
See you.

再見
It may look chaotic, but it's one of the most user-friendly trains

它可能看起來雜亂無章，但卻是最方便用戶使用的列車之一
I've ever been on.

我曾經上過
But you do have to know how to use it.

但你必須知道如何使用它。
Oh, and this was good old days.

哦，那是美好的過去。
This was the Nile Express or something.

這是尼羅河快車什麼的。
You could get food, a five-course meal,

你可以得到食物，一頓五道菜的大餐、
God knows what, and then probably have a liqueur at the end of it.

天知道是什麼，最後可能還要喝點利口酒。
But nowadays it's self-catering on this line.

但現在這條線路上都是自助餐。
This is what I got yesterday.

這是我昨天收到的。
I'm going to try the stewed chicken with bone.

我要試試帶骨燉雞。
What will I get first?

我會先得到什麼？
A bit of industrial, but not bad.

有點工業氣息，但還不錯。
And the bread, which is now about a day old.

還有面包，現在大約有一天了。
A bit of Dunkin'.

來點灌籃高手
It's not the brand hotel, but it's quite tasty.

雖然不是品牌酒店，但味道還不錯。
Water, very essential.

水，非常重要。
It's very, very hot out there.

外面非常非常熱。
About 120 degrees.

約 120 度。
The water is probably...

水可能是...
almost boiling.

幾乎沸騰
About as refreshing as it can get.

這真是令人耳目一新。
So there we are.

這就是我們。
I recommend Marling's stewed chicken with bone, followed by hot Sahara Desert water, followed by a quick trip to the toilet.

我推薦馬琳的帶骨燉雞，然後是撒哈拉沙漠的熱開水，接著是快速上廁所。
It also leaves something to be desired.

它也有不足之處。
Hot, with bone.

熱的，有骨頭的。
Maybe this isn't ecologically unsound, but there are a lot of other bones in the desert, so that goes out there.

也許這並不是不符合生態學原理，但沙漠中還有很多其他的骨頭，所以這一點也不符合生態學原理。
Well, this is quite a moment.

這一刻真是太棒了
It looks as if one of the most hazardous and fraught parts of the journey through Africa is safely over.

看來，穿越非洲的旅程中最危險、最危險的部分之一已經安全地結束了。
I did get a ferry to take me from Egypt to the Sudan.

我搭乘渡輪從埃及前往蘇丹。
The highly unpredictable train did run from Wedi Halper on time, and now, 29 hours and about three hours' sleep later, we are actually here, safely across one of the most inhospitable bits of desert.

不可預知的火車準時從 Wedi Halper 開出，29 個小時和大約 3 個小時的睡眠之後，我們終於來到了這裡，安全地穿越了最荒涼的沙漠之一。
Although most of that desert is up my nose, in my hair and in my ears, it's a small price to pay for being here in deepest Sudan and well on the way to more problems, really.

雖然大部分沙漠都在我的鼻子裡、頭髮裡和耳朵裡，但這對於身處蘇丹最深處的我來說只是很小的代價，而且我還將面臨更多的問題，真的。
So let's go.

我們走吧
We opt to go on to Khartoum by bus, for extra reliability.

為了更加可靠，我們選擇乘坐巴士前往喀土穆。
A daily service covers the 200 miles from Atbara to the capital.

從阿特巴拉（Atbara）到首都的 200 英里路程每天都有班車往返。
The technology is tried and tested.

該技術久經考驗。
This bus has already been a Bedford truck, and that was 40 years ago.

這輛巴士已經是一輛貝德福德卡車，而那已經是 40 年前的事了。
We're lucky to get a bus almost to ourselves.

我們很幸運，幾乎只有一輛公車。
They're actually licensed to carry 170 people.

實際上，他們獲得了可搭載 170 人的許可。
At least the roads are empty, if this is a road.

如果這是一條路的話，至少路上是空的。
How do you know which route to take?

你怎麼知道該走哪條路？
I mean, it all looks exactly the same.

我是說，這一切看起來都一模一樣。
You do the route... You drive this way every day, right?

你走的路線...你每天都走這條路，對吧？
Well, I suppose you know.

我想你應該知道
When it... When the... Is there ever rain?

當...當...有雨嗎？
Does it ever rain here?

這裡下過雨嗎？
It rains, I suppose. It just stops, you see.

我想是下雨了。雨停了
The driver and I chatter on.

司機和我喋喋不休。
I think he just wants someone to talk to.

我覺得他只是想找人傾訴。
Make your own at once.

馬上自己做。
When at last we do find the road, things only get worse.

當我們終於找到路時，情況卻變得更糟了。
It doesn't seem to have been finished, assuming it was ever started.

它似乎還沒有完成，假設它曾經啟動過的話。
2,000 years ago, the road was the only road in the world.

2000 年前，這條路是世界上唯一的道路。
The only road in the world.

世界上唯一的道路
The only road in the world.

世界上唯一的道路
The only road in the world.

世界上唯一的道路
The only road in the world.

世界上唯一的道路
2,000 years ago, this was the kingdom of Meroe.

2000 年前，這裡是 Meroe 王國。
Out in the desert, a cluster of pyramids can still be seen, broken and leaning like a row of bad teeth.

在沙漠中，還能看到一簇金字塔，殘缺不全，像一排壞牙。
How could a civilisation apparently rich in iron and agriculture be so completely out of history?

一個顯然富於鐵器和農業的文明怎麼會如此完全地脫離歷史呢？
I thought of asking the driver, but there's no guarantee of stopping him once he'd started.

我想過詢問司機，但一旦他啟動了，就無法保證能阻止他。
I thought of stopping for a nice cold beer, but alcohol's illegal in the Sudan.

我想停下來喝杯冰啤酒，但在蘇丹喝酒是違法的。
There's not much to do but get hot and dusty and, like those Victorian generals, think of all the things I'm going to relieve in Khartoum.

除了炎熱和塵土飛揚，像那些維多利亞時代的將軍們一樣，想想我要在喀土穆解除的一切，沒有什麼可做的。
BELL RINGS

鈴環
Here in the capital are the first signs of trouble ahead.

在首都這裡，麻煩即將來臨的跡象已經初露端倪。
For the last eight years, the mainly Christian south has been at war with the hardline Muslim government in Khartoum.

過去八年來，以基督教為主的南部一直在與喀土穆的強硬派穆斯林政府交戰。
Unfortunately for us, the war zone lies straight across our path.

不幸的是，戰區就在我們的對面。
Well, I've just come from a meeting here in the Ministry of Information, which is responsible for all the permits and the passes to go through Sudan, and they've dealt us a bit of a crushing blow because we've not been given permission to travel south through Sudan, which is the route we need to take if we're going to stay anywhere near 30 degrees.

他們給了我們一個沉重的打擊，因為我們沒有獲得通過蘇丹向南旅行的許可，而如果我們要在 30 度附近逗留，就必須走這條路線。
They've said it's not safe, they won't guarantee our safety, and we just can't go.

他們說那裡不安全，不能保證我們的安全，我們不能去。
We could fly into Juba, which is the southern city, but we can't get out of it because it's surrounded, so we're absolutely stuck in that direction.

我們可以飛到南部城市朱巴，但我們出不去，因為它被包圍了，所以我們絕對被困在那個方向。
We've got to find another way out of Sudan, which won't be easy, but we'll look.

我們必須找到另一條離開蘇丹的路，這並不容易，但我們會找的。
This is not a country renowned for its sense of urgency.

這不是一個以緊迫感聞名的國家。
Things happen slowly, if at all.

事情發生得很慢，甚至根本不可能發生。
To get into the country requires the patience of Job.

要進入這個國家，需要約伯一樣的耐心。
God knows what we need to get out.

上帝知道我們需要做什麼。
It's so easy to get discouraged, to let helplessness descend like the blanket of hot, sticky air that covers the city.

我們很容易灰心喪氣，讓無助感像覆蓋城市的悶熱空氣一樣降臨。
How does a foreigner survive in the Sudan?

外國人如何在蘇丹生存？
To find out, I'm directed to the one place left in Khartoum where foreigners regularly meet.

為了一探究竟，我來到喀土穆僅存的一個外國人經常聚會的地方。
Before Sudan won her independence from Britain in 1956, the club had a membership of over 1,000.

1956 年蘇丹從英國贏得獨立之前，該俱樂部的會員人數超過 1000 人。
Now it's barely 200.

現在只有不到 200 人。
But the menu remains reassuringly Western, as do the diners.

但菜單和食客們一樣，仍然保持著令人放心的西式風格。
Alan Woodroffe is a professor of tropical medicine, which makes him far from the ideal dining companion.

艾倫-伍德羅夫是一位熱帶醫學教授，這使他遠不是理想的用餐伴侶。
Oh, Majoub, it's full of salad.

哦，Majoub，裡面全是沙拉。
You know, I never eat salad.

你知道，我從來不吃沙拉。
Salad is one of the worst ways of contracting dysentery.

沙拉是感染痢疾最糟糕的途徑之一。
And also, in this part of the world, Hydative's disease.

此外，在世界的這個地區，還有海因茨病。
Bring me one without salad.

給我來一份不加沙拉的。
Right. That might be possibly the same.

對這可能是一樣的。
I'm not keen to get dysentery, so I'll put mine on the side here.

我不想得痢疾，所以我把我的放在一邊。
Is it really that bad?

真的有那麼糟糕嗎？
Well, it's one of the first principles, you know, of keeping fit in the tropics, that you avoid salads.

在熱帶地區健身的首要原則之一就是避免吃沙拉。
I've been eating salad all week, because the tomatoes look rather good here.

我整個星期都在吃沙拉，因為這裡的西紅柿看起來相當不錯。
Yes, yes, of course they do.

是的，是的，當然是這樣。
So far, no problems.

到目前為止，沒有任何問題。
That's one of the troubles.

這就是麻煩之一。
The things that look good are usually those which are most likely to transmit the dysentery.

看起來好的東西通常最有可能傳播痢疾。
You do frighten me now. I'll keep it on one side, anyway.

你現在確實嚇到我了不管怎樣，我會把它放在一邊的。
I know that the books say you should make sure everything's peeled and all that, and they obviously have been peeled.

我知道書上說要確保所有的東西都去了皮，而它們顯然是去了皮的。
Yes, yes.

是的，是的。
Is it more serious than that?

比這更嚴重嗎？
Well, yes, it's...

嗯，是的，這是...
Is it how they're grown?

是它們的生長方式嗎？
No, it's difficult to know who's peeled them.

不，很難知道是誰剝的。
That's the trouble.

這就是問題所在。
And because they're not heated up like any of the rest.

還因為它們不像其他食物那樣會被加熱。
That's right.

這就對了。
So all this has been, the Scotch eggs have all been done...

所以這一切，蘇格蘭蛋都已經完成了......
In your trip.

在你的旅途中
Hygienically.

衛生
In your trip...

在您的旅行中...
Hygienically.

衛生
I think that the best advice you could have about keeping fit would be to eat only those things which are served hot.

我認為，關於保持健康，最好的建議就是隻吃那些熱食。
Right.

對
Come from the kitchen and are served hot.

來自廚房，熱氣騰騰。
Oh, dear, yes.

哦，親愛的，是的。
The Scotch egg seems a very traditional dish.

蘇格蘭蛋似乎是一道非常傳統的菜餚。
What other things do they have here?

這裡還有什麼其他東西？
Well, the food is mostly traditional.

食物主要是傳統食物。
Steak and kidney pie, you know, and roast beef.

牛排腰子派，你知道的，還有烤牛肉。
We had roast beef yesterday with Yorkshire pudding.

我們昨天吃了烤牛肉和約克郡布丁。
There was no cabbage.

沒有捲心菜。
Some sort of greens that grow by the river had to serve for cabbage.

河邊生長的某種蔬菜不得不充當捲心菜。
But it was very tasty.

但它非常美味。
Very good.

非常好
Is the chef English?

廚師是英國人嗎？
No, no, Sudanese.

不，不，蘇丹人。
Very good chap too.

他也是個好人。
After lunch, determined to make amends for all the salads I've eaten,

午飯後，我決心彌補吃過的所有沙拉、
I foolhardily accept a sporting challenge.

我愚蠢地接受了體育挑戰。
My opponent, Nosheer Antia, couldn't have been more accommodating.

我的對手諾謝爾-安蒂亞非常熱情。
But it's 100 Fahrenheit on court, and after several gruelling seconds, I've passed my peak.

但球場上的溫度高達 100 華氏度，幾秒鐘之後，我已經過了巔峰狀態。
He kindly agrees to an adjournment in the garden.

他欣然同意在花園裡休會。
It's nice out here.

這裡真不錯
You don't have a drug problem.

你沒有吸毒問題。
You don't have mindless violence in this place.

這裡沒有無謂的暴力。
And the family gets together.

一家人聚在一起
Is it tricky language?

是語言刁鑽嗎？
Once you learn the language, you find the people here are extremely nice.

一旦你學會了這裡的語言，你會發現這裡的人都非常友善。
Although they may laugh at your attempts to mangle their tongue, they take you to their hearts.

雖然他們可能會嘲笑你試圖弄亂他們的舌頭，但他們會把你放在心裡。
When did you learn?

你什麼時候學會的？
I learned the hard way because when I came out here,

我學到了很多，因為當我來到這裡、
I could only speak English.

我只會說英語。
I could only speak Arabic, so I had to communicate very fast, and I learned through the school of hard knocks.

我只會說阿拉伯語，所以我必須非常快速地進行交流，我是通過 "艱苦學校 "學習的。
Well, I'm hopeless. I mean, I don't know anything.

我沒救了我是說，我什麼都不知道。
You can learn malish. That should be your first one.

你可以學習馬利西語。這應該是你的第一門課。
What?

什麼？
Malish.

馬利什
Malish. What's that?

馬利什那是什麼？
Malish means sorry, never mind.

馬利什的意思是對不起，沒關係。
That's a good one.

說得好
Yes, I could use that when I'm playing squash.

是的，我打壁球時可以用上它。
You could.

你可以
I could use that a lot.

我可以經常使用它。
Malish.

馬利什
Malish.

馬利什
Malish.

馬利什
You probably want to go and have another game, so...

你可能想去再玩一局，所以......
I can only meditate in your heart.

我只能在你的心中冥想。
I'll stand here.

我就站在這裡。
It's only lemonade.

這只是檸檬水。
What was it?

是什麼？
OK.

好的。
Thank you very much.

非常感謝。
Thanks very much indeed.

真的非常感謝。
I'll see you again.

後會有期
Bye-bye.

再見
I'll let him win, of course. I'll let him win.

我當然會讓他贏。我會讓他贏的
Let him walk away with it.

讓他帶著它離開。
Give him a little shot, but you have to, don't you?

給他一點機會，但你必須這麼做，不是嗎？
OK.

好的。
Bye.

再見。
This is Omdoman, across the River Nile from Khartoum.

這裡是奧姆多曼，與喀土穆隔尼羅河相望。
Ask anyone here the best way to get around their country and there'll be only one answer.

在這裡，如果你問任何人環遊自己國家的最佳方式，答案只有一個。
This is a camel mart.

這裡是駱駝市集。
Herds and dealers come here from all over the eastern Sahara.

牧群和經銷商從撒哈拉沙漠東部各地來到這裡。
What does a second-hand ship of the desert, one owner, only a few thousand miles on the hoof, go for these days?

如今，一艘只有一位車主、只行駛了幾千英里的二手沙漠之舟能賣多少錢？
Is this yours?

這是你的嗎？
25,000.

25,000.
How much?

多少錢？
25,000.

25,000.
For one camel?

就為了一頭駱駝？
25,000.

25,000.
That's a lot of money. That's...

那可是一大筆錢這...
25,000.

25,000.
I'll have to see.

我得看看。
I've got 25,000. That's about 1,000 quid.

我有兩萬五大約1000英鎊。
I've got...

我有...
25,000.

25,000.
I've got about, oh, maybe 100 here.

我這裡大概有 100 個。
25,000.

25,000.
OK. I'll buy a bit of a camel.

好吧我買一點駱駝。
25,000.

25,000.
A hump?

駝峰？
I'll tell you what.

我來告訴你
25,000.

25,000.
A bulk order. We need seven of them.

批量訂單我們需要七個
A bulk discount.

批量折扣。
25,000.

25,000.
Ah, you're a hard man.

啊，你真是個硬漢子。
Anyway, thanks.

總之，謝謝你。
25,000 for that?

2.5 萬美元？
Ayusha Travel, a transport company run by Eritreans from northern Ethiopia, could solve our problem of leaving the Sudan.

Ayusha Travel 是一家由來自衣索匹亞北部的厄立特里亞人經營的運輸公司，它可以解決我們離開蘇丹的問題。
They have unparalleled experience of border crossing gained from their 30-year war with the central government.

他們在與中央政府長達 30 年的戰爭中積累了無與倫比的越境經驗。
The ending of that war, four months ago, could be the piece of luck we need.

四個月前那場戰爭的結束可能是我們所需要的運氣。
We can't follow the White Nile south.

我們不能沿著白尼羅河南下。
West leads through Zaire, as difficult as Sudan, but east is Ethiopia.

向西經過薩伊，與蘇丹一樣困難，但向東是衣索匹亞。
It's now freshly liberated and, in theory, open for business.

現在，它剛剛獲得解放，理論上已開始營業。
We want to get to Khartoum.

我們想去喀土穆。
We want to get down to sort of, well, down to Addis, really, eventually.

我們最終想去亞的斯亞貝巴。
So which route would you take us?

那麼，你會帶我們走哪條路呢？
From Khartoum, direct to Medeni, through Medeni to Gadarif.

從喀土穆直達邁德尼，再經由邁德尼到達加達裡夫。
Yeah.

是啊
It is Medeni.

是梅德尼。
And we have to reach Gadarif.

我們必須到達加達裡夫
And this looks all quite good road.

這看起來都是不錯的路。
Yeah, it's an asphalted road.

是的，這是一條柏油路。
It's a good road.

這是一條好路。
And after Gadarif, where do we go then?

加達裡夫之後，我們該何去何從？
From Gadarif to Matamma.

從 Gadarif 到 Matamma。
Matamma.

馬塔姆瑪
I see, that's on the border.

我明白了，那是在邊境上。
Yeah, it's border.

是的，這是邊界。
Yes.

是的。
And then from Matamma to Gondar.

然後從馬塔馬到貢達爾。
Yeah.

是啊
Lake Tana.

塔納湖
From Gadarif to Matamma, it's rough roads.

從加達裡夫到馬塔馬，道路崎嶇不平。
Rocky road.

岩石之路
Yeah.

是啊
And due to rainy season, the soil is washed out, so it's somewhat rough.

而且由於雨季的緣故，土壤被沖刷得有些粗糙。
With the land produce, all right.

有了土地產品，就好辦了。
But with other cars, small cars, it's impossible.

但對於其他汽車、小型汽車來說，這是不可能的。
Do you have land cruisers sufficient to take yourself, six others?

你們有足夠的陸地巡洋艦來運送自己和其他六人嗎？
We are in this business of transporting people.

我們的業務是運送人員。
How long have you been in the business?

您從業多久了？
Almost for two years now.

差不多有兩年了。
There's one of your cars starting up now.

你的一輛車啟動了
Yeah.

是啊
It does work.

它確實有效。
Well, this may look just like a lot of water, but it is actually the point where the two Niles, the blue Nile, or the brown Nile, as it is here, and the white Nile, or the grey Nile, as it is over there, actually meet.

好吧，這裡看起來可能只是一片水域，但它實際上是兩條尼羅河的交匯點，即這裡的藍色尼羅河或棕色尼羅河，以及那邊的白色尼羅河或灰色尼羅河。
Now, if things had gone right for us, we would have gone down there, followed the white Nile, which flows right down into Central Africa, thousands of miles, but we can't do that, as we know, so we're going to follow the blue, or brown, as it is at the moment, Nile, which takes us on a zigzag course to its very source in Ethiopia, which is going to be much more exciting.

現在，如果一切順利的話，我們就會沿著白尼羅河下去，一直流到幾千英里外的中非，但我們不能那樣做，我們知道，所以我們要沿著藍色的尼羅河，或者說棕色的尼羅河，因為它現在正帶著我們走之字形路線，到達它在衣索匹亞的源頭，這將會更加令人興奮。
I'll leave you now to have a look at the brownness of the blue Nile and the greyness of the white Nile while we look at the source of the turquoise Nile.

我現在要離開了，你們可以看看藍色尼羅河的褐色和白色尼羅河的灰色，而我們要看看碧綠尼羅河的源頭。
Over in Omdurman, every Friday evening, an hour before dusk, followers of the 19th-century sheikh Hamad el-Niel gather to celebrate his mystical teachings and to literally dance themselves closer to Allah.

在烏姆杜爾曼，每週五黃昏前一小時，19 世紀酋長哈馬德-尼爾（Hamad el-Niel）的追隨者們都會聚集在一起，頌揚他的神祕教義，並以舞蹈的形式讓自己更接近真主。
They're better known as the Whirling Dervishes, and if this is religion, I'd like to join.

如果這是宗教，我願意加入。
ALL CHANT

所有詠唱
If I get close enough to Allah,

如果我足夠接近真主
I think I'll ask him to make this happy night my last memory of Khartoum.

我想我會讓他把這個快樂的夜晚作為我在喀土穆的最後記憶。
We've been stuck here almost a week, and it's time we can no longer afford.

我們已經被困在這裡快一個星期了，時間已經耗不起了。
ALL CHANT

所有詠唱
Well, we are now about to leave Khartoum.

我們現在即將離開喀土穆。
We have our transport, courtesy of the Eritreans, and after quite a wait, we've finally got our last piece of paper, which is a permit to go to Gadara from the Sudan police headquarters.

在厄立特里亞人的幫助下，我們有了自己的交通工具。經過漫長的等待，我們終於拿到了最後一張紙，那是從蘇丹警察總部簽發的前往加達拉的許可證。
Without this, we can't move at all.

沒有這些，我們根本無法移動。
So we now have this, we can go to Gadara, and from there, across the border into Ethiopia.

所以我們現在有了這個，我們可以去加達拉，從那裡越過邊界進入衣索匹亞。
It'll be a rough ride, but a second sandstorm hit Khartoum last night.

昨晚，喀土穆遭遇了第二場沙塵暴。
I think it's an omen. I think we should go.

我覺得這是一個預兆。我覺得我們該走了
ALL CHANT

所有詠唱
After a day's travelling, we're clear of the desert.

經過一天的長途跋涉，我們終於走出了沙漠。
It's marvellous to see greenery again, but it's only there because the rains have ended unusually late.

再次看到綠色令人驚歎，但這只是因為雨水結束得異常晚。
ALL CHANT

所有詠唱
ALL CHANT

所有詠唱
Most people we pass are on foot.

我們經過的大多數人都是步行。
I can soon understand why.

我很快就明白了原因。
The thick black soil has not yet had time to dry out.

厚厚的黑土還沒有來得及乾透。
But this is the road to the border, and we can only hope it gets better.

但這就是通往邊境的道路，我們只能希望它越來越好。
We're on the border, and we can only hope it gets better.

我們就在邊境上，我們只能希望情況會越來越好。
ALL CHANT

所有詠唱
ALL CHANT

所有詠唱
Vehicles much heavier than ours have passed this way and ground deep ruts into the soft earth.

比我們重得多的車輛從這裡經過，在鬆軟的土地上碾出深深的車轍。
For the first time, my faith in the Eritrean drivers is a little shaken.

我對厄立特里亞司機的信心第一次有些動搖。
Once stuck, they seem to lose heart easily.

一旦陷入困境，他們似乎很容易失去信心。
On the move, riding the ridges with consummate skill, they're in their element.

在行進中，他們以精湛的技巧在山脊上馳騁，盡顯本色。
They even act as a bus service.

它們甚至還充當公交服務。
What is your name?

你叫什麼名字？
Abdul Rahim Mohamed Ahmed Abdul Latif.

阿卜杜勒-拉希姆-穆罕默德-艾哈邁德-阿卜杜勒-拉提夫。
Abdul Rahim. Mine is Michael, not Michael.

阿卜杜勒-拉希姆我的名字是邁克爾，不是麥克爾。
Where are you going to?

你要去哪裡？
Douka.

杜卡
Douka? Is that a village?

杜卡？那是個村莊嗎？
No. I have a field on that side.

不，我在那邊有一塊地。
What do you grow in your field?

你在田裡種什麼？
Sesame.

芝麻
Sesame?

芝麻？
How long does it take you to get to Gadara?

您需要多長時間才能到達加達拉？
Two days.

兩天
How do you travel? Do you travel on a bus?

您如何出行？您乘坐公共汽車嗎？
Lorry.

Lorry.
Lorry. How many people are there on the lorry?

貨車。貨車上有多少人？
Many people?

很多人？
More than 20.

超過 20 個。
Tough ride. They all bump around.

艱難的旅程。他們都在顛簸。
Oh.

哦。
Some lorries don't make it.

有些貨車無法通過。
We pick our way around them, knowing it could so easily be us.

我們繞開他們，因為我們知道這很可能就是我們自己。
And very soon, it is.

而且很快就會實現。
I lend a hand, wherever possible.

只要有可能，我都會伸出援手。
At this rate, I can see real trouble ahead.

照這樣下去，我看麻煩就大了。
Well, we've just reached Douka, which is the halfway point to Gadara.

我們剛剛到達杜卡，這裡是通往加達拉的中途站。
Well, we've just reached Douka, which is the halfway point between here and the border at Galabat.

我們剛剛到達杜卡，這是這裡和加拉巴特邊境的中間點。
We've asked for vehicles to meet us at Galabat, to take us across into Ethiopia tonight.

我們要求派車在加拉巴特與我們會合，今晚帶我們穿越衣索匹亞。
But we started at 6.30 this morning.

但我們今天早上六點半就出發了。
It's now just after 12.

現在剛過 12 點。
It looks very unlikely that we're going to get there on time.

看來我們不太可能準時到達那裡。
Whether the vehicles will wait for us, whether they'll even be there, we don't know.

車輛會不會等我們，甚至會不會在那裡，我們都不知道。
But with the roads the way they are at the moment, it's going to be very tight to actually get there and rendezvous with them.

但就目前的道路狀況而言，要真正到達那裡並與他們會合將非常困難。
After Douka, our drivers lose the road completely, and we plunge on through the fields with increasing desperation.

過了杜卡，我們的司機完全失去了方向，我們在田野裡越走越絕望。
There's not much left to do but pray.

除了祈禱，我們已經沒什麼可做的了。
Another truck stuck, another tow.

又一輛卡車卡住了，又要拖車。
There's no sense in rushing.

急於求成是沒有意義的。
These people have got the right idea.

這些人的想法是正確的。
I've got a feeling we're not going to win our race against time to get to Galabat by dusk, because we're now...

我有種預感，我們不可能在黃昏前到達加拉巴特，因為我們現在...
I mean, this is the road, and it's virtually impassable.

我是說，就是這條路，幾乎無法通行。
It's so deeply grooved and pitted, we keep having to stop to pull vehicles out.

這裡溝壑縱橫，坑坑窪窪，我們不得不不停地停車，把車輛拖出來。
Even then, nobody seems quite sure where the border actually is.

即便如此，似乎也沒人能確定邊界到底在哪裡。
So the combination of these two things in the last half hour, we've probably covered about five kilometres.

所以這兩件事加起來，在過去的半個小時裡，我們大概走了五公里。
And we've been going nine hours or so.

我們已經走了九個多小時了。
It's quarter to four, quarter to five.

現在是四點一刻，五點一刻。
We have about another hour and a half of daylight.

我們還有一個半小時的白天。
Unless things get very much better, I think time's run out for us.

除非情況大有好轉，否則我認為我們的時間不多了。
We'll be... we'll be picnicking in the bush.

我們會......我們會在灌木叢中野餐。
Well, the adventure continues.

好了，冒險還在繼續。
We never actually did reach Galabat last night.

實際上，我們昨晚並沒有到達加拉巴特。
After one of many halts, after 13 hours of driving, we just stopped dead almost in the middle of nowhere.

在經過 13 個小時的長途跋涉後，在一次中途停車時，我們幾乎在荒無人煙的地方停了下來。
Turned out to be a small village called Kanina.

原來是一個叫卡尼納的小村莊。
We asked the police whether we could get to Galabat.

我們問警察我們能否去加拉巴特。
They said it's a bit dangerous. Better stay here.

他們說有點危險最好待在這裡
And so we ended up spending a night in the police station at Kanina.

最後，我們在卡尼納的警察局過了一夜。
And this is actually the compound of the police station.

這裡其實就是警察局的大院。
Didn't sleep awfully well, but I never do in police stations.

睡得不太好，但我在警察局裡從來都睡不好。
But we're here, we're fresh, and we're on to try and find the border.

但我們在這裡，我們是新鮮的，我們要努力找到邊界。
Any answers on a postcard, please, to pole to pole lost somewhere on the Sudan-Ethiopia border.

請把答案寫在明信片上，寄到蘇丹-衣索匹亞邊境的某處。
Monday morning.

星期一上午。
BIRDS CHIRP

鳥類鳴叫
Being by nature an optimist, I don't really think things can get any worse.

我天生是個樂觀主義者，我不認為事情會變得更糟。
Wrong again.

又錯了。
Before you can say, Nigel Mansell, we're in the pits.

你還沒來得及說 "奈傑爾-曼塞爾"，我們就到維修站了。
ENGINE ROARS

發動機轟鳴聲
Not a grip on here at all.

這裡完全沒有抓地力。
Strange people appear from all over the bush to see what we're doing.

奇怪的人從灌木叢的四面八方趕來，看我們在做什麼。
I have the heart to tell them we're going to the South Pole.

我很想告訴他們，我們要去南極。
ENGINE ROARS

發動機轟鳴聲
Things are now so bad, even the director has to push.

現在情況如此糟糕，連導演都不得不推一把。
This time it really does seem like the end of the road.

這一次，似乎真的要走到盡頭了。
The vehicles ahead of us are also stuck.

前面的車輛也被卡住了。
But then, just as I'm thinking of taking Sudanese nationality, hope backs towards us.

但就在我考慮加入蘇丹國籍時，希望又向我們走來。
ENGINE ROARS

發動機轟鳴聲
It's a last-minute reprieve.

這是最後一刻的緩兵之計。
We pull ourselves out of the rough only to find that we are closer to the road than we ever thought.

我們走出崎嶇的山路，卻發現我們比想象中更接近公路。
Mind you, some people are even closer.

當然，有些人的距離更近。
GUNSHOT

槍聲
I think someone's trying to tell us something about this particular journey.

我覺得有人想告訴我們一些關於這段特殊旅程的事情。
We've been going now about seven hours since we left the police station this morning.

從早上離開警察局到現在，我們已經走了七個小時了。
We've covered about 20 kilometres, but Galabat is just over the hill there, they keep saying.

我們已經走了大約 20 公里，但加拉巴特就在山那邊，他們一直在說。
And just as we arrive here, we find this lorry carrying sacks of salt has overturned, blocked the... has blocked the road, so we're held up again.

就在我們到達這裡的時候，我們發現這輛運鹽的卡車翻車了，堵住了......堵住了路，所以我們又被耽擱了。
I'm also told this is not a good place to stop because in these hills here on the border with Ethiopia, there are Ethiopian... ex-Ethiopian troops who are sort of living almost as mercenaries in the area.

我還被告知，這裡不是停留的好地方，因為在與衣索匹亞交界的這些山丘上，有衣索匹亞......前衣索匹亞部隊，他們幾乎是以僱傭兵的身份生活在這裡。
We have to have an armed guard with machine guns with us and they're sort of fanning out, making sure we're protected.

我們必須有一名攜帶機槍的武裝警衛，他們呈扇形分佈，確保我們受到保護。
In fact, way back there where we tried to film, we were told not to.

事實上，在我們試圖拍攝的地方，我們被告知不能拍攝。
So I shouldn't film now, if I were you.

所以，如果我是你，現在就不應該拍攝。
The only trouble with railroads is that people use them.

鐵路唯一的問題是人們使用它們。
And having seen nothing for 24 hours, we run slap-bang into a convoy of trucks coming from Ethiopia.

在 24 小時內什麼都沒看到的情況下，我們迎面撞上了一隊從衣索匹亞開來的卡車。
Once they're past, we speed on for at least 100 yards.

一旦他們過去了，我們就加速前進至少 100 碼。
This is becoming like one of those never-ending board games where you have to throw the exact number to finish.

這就像一個永無止境的棋盤遊戲，你必須扔出準確的數字才能結束。
Stop here under the tree?

停在樹下？
Yeah, we're waiting for him.

是的，我們在等他
Mm.

嗯 Mm.
Trauma fright.

創傷驚嚇
So I suppose if we continue like this, we can avoid the game from continuing?

所以我想，如果我們繼續這樣做，就能避免遊戲繼續下去？
Well, until...

嗯，直到...
Okay, until the next busybody.

好吧，直到下一個愛管閒事的人。
You see, I'm trying to see what we can do.

你看，我正在想辦法。
Galabat.

加拉巴特
What?

什麼？
Galabat.

加拉巴特
Galabat, here?

加拉巴特，這裡？
No.

不
Let's have a sign.

我們來立個牌子。
Why do they have no road signs in the Sudan?

為什麼蘇丹沒有路標？
You think it's round here?

你認為它就在附近？
No.

不
Why not?

為什麼不呢？
Then just when I ceased to believe in the existence of Galabat, there it is below us.

正當我不再相信加拉巴特的存在時，它就在我們下面。
We've taken well over 24 hours to cover the distance between London and Oxford.

我們花了 24 個多小時才走完倫敦和牛津之間的路程。
Galabat may seem like the promised land, but as we know to our cost, it's one of the least accessible places in the whole of Africa.

加拉巴特看似應許之地，但我們知道，它是整個非洲最難到達的地方之一。
We've made it.

我們成功了
The question now is, will anyone be there to meet us?

現在的問題是，會有人來迎接我們嗎？
Will anyone be there to meet us?

會有人來接我們嗎？
A crisis that could be worse than climate change, extinction, the facts, with David Attenborough on BBC One tomorrow at eight.

大衛-愛登堡（David Attenborough）將於明晚八點在 BBC One 節目中為您講述一場可能比氣候變化更嚴重的危機--瀕臨滅絕的事實。
And his thrilling journey to the wildest places in the world,

以及他前往世界上最荒涼地方的驚險旅程、
Planet Earth, A Celebration, is streaming now on BBC iPlayer.

Planet Earth, A Celebration》正在 BBC iPlayer 上播放。