I'm here with Chef Eric, Taiwanese chef authority, general person to hang out with when the night goes on.

我和臺灣廚師權威埃裡克大廚在一起，他是夜幕降臨時的常客。

We're here at Nirumen Jitang, famous, proper Taiwanese beef noodle soup place.

我們來到了著名的正宗臺灣牛肉麵館--涅門濟棠。

Beef noodle soup is the dish in Taiwan, and in my opinion, it's even better late night.

牛肉湯麵是臺灣的特色美食，在我看來，深夜裡的牛肉湯麵更美味。

These guys are busy all night, and I heard chef is putting on a new batch of soup.

這些傢伙整晚都在忙，我聽說大廚正在做新的湯。

So we're going to go check it out.

所以我們要去看看。

Hello, hello.

你好，你好

Hello.

你好

Hello.

你好

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you.

謝謝，謝謝，謝謝，謝謝。

You're still working this late?

這麼晚了你還在工作？

No, no, no, I'm just as busy as I am.

不，不，不，我和我自己一樣忙。

Yeah, I'm telling you, I really, really, really like your place.

是啊，我告訴你，我真的，真的，真的很喜歡你的地方。

I come here every day.

我每天都來這裡。

I come at least three times a week when I come to Taiwan.

我來臺灣時，每週至少來三次。

Thank you, thank you.

謝謝，謝謝。

First thing that chef is doing is prepping the base liquid of his broth.

廚師要做的第一件事就是準備肉湯的基液。

That liquid is chicken, beef bone, and a little bit of offal, which is not, as I understand it, extremely traditional.

這些液體是雞肉、牛骨和一點內臟，據我所知，這並不是非常傳統的做法。

But it's all going to impart flavor in a clean, sweet way.

但這一切都將以一種乾淨、甜美的方式傳遞味道。

The goal here is sweetness and sort of delicacy, balanced with a thickened texture that comes from the emulsified fat with water.

它的目標是甜美和精緻，並與用水乳化脂肪後的濃稠口感相平衡。

Just to immerse all of the daipan and the carrots in the bottom.

只需將大班和胡蘿蔔全部浸入底部即可。

That was step one.

這是第一步。

Step two, he's going to activate his aromatics.

第二步，他要激活他的芳香劑。

Chef is going to start off by melting a little bit of beef tallow, and he's going to bring that up to temperature to extract as much flavor as he can.

大廚會先融化一點牛脂，然後將其加熱，以儘可能多地提取味道。

Ginger goes in first, just because it's a little bit wet, it's going to take a little bit more time to extract its flavor.

先放生薑，因為生薑有點溼，需要更多時間來提取它的味道。

You can honestly smell how aromatic it is in this kitchen before any of this beef has been involved.

老實說，在牛肉還沒進入廚房之前，你就能聞到廚房裡香氣撲鼻。

It smells so good.

聞起來真香。

It really smells good.

聞起來真的很香。

Yeah, this is the happiest time of the day for me.

是啊，這是我一天中最開心的時刻。

I think it's when you're eating.

我覺得是吃飯的時候。

No, no, no.

不，不，不

It's the happiest time of the day when it smells the best.

這是一天中最幸福的時刻，也是最香的時刻。

It smells so good.

聞起來真香。

The best beef in Taipei.

臺北最好吃的牛肉

Yeah, yeah.

是啊，是啊。

Really.

真的

Wait, so talk to me.

等等，那就跟我說說。

This is the most traditional cut for beef, right?

這是最傳統的牛肉切法，對嗎？

Yes, so actually in Taiwan, the beef shank is one of the most prized cuts.

是的，實際上在臺灣，牛腿肉是最珍貴的肉類之一。

Beef shank is very large.

牛腿肉非常大。

This is the very inner part of the beef shank muscle.

這是牛腿肌肉最內側的部分。

Taiwanese people love it because it has the most sort of even distribution of fat, collagen, tendon, and meat.

臺灣人喜歡它，因為它的脂肪、膠原蛋白、筋腱和肉的分佈最均勻。

So as you can see, the intermuscular tendon on this cut is what makes this beef shank so valuable, especially in Taiwanese cuisine, and any cuisine that utilizes a lot of braising technique for beef dishes.

是以，正如您所看到的，這塊牛腿肉上的肌間腱是其珍貴之處，尤其是在臺灣菜和任何使用大量紅燒技術烹飪牛肉的菜餚中。

It's actually something too many people throw away.

實際上，很多人都把它扔掉了。

Yeah, it's something people don't think about.

是的，這是人們沒有想到的。

And in one cut, you get three textures.

一刀下去，就有三種質感。

You're meaty, fatty, and bouncy from tendon, right?

你肉多，脂肪多，肌腱彈跳力強，對嗎？

So this is beef cheek, right?

這就是牛腩吧？

This, to me, is what makes New Roman Tea Town really unique.

在我看來，這就是新羅馬茶鎮的真正獨特之處。

Beef cheeks, notoriously difficult to cook.

牛頰，出了名的難煮。

French people cook it for hours and hours in beef bourguignon.

法國人會在紅酒牛肉（beef bourguignon）中烹飪數小時。

Do you usually get this?

你經常遇到這種情況嗎？

No, dude, I barely see this in Taiwan, ever.

不，老兄，我在臺灣幾乎沒看到過這種情況。

I've never really seen beef cheeks in Taiwan growing up.

我在臺灣長大，還真沒見過牛腩。

I tried looking at beef cheeks and can't find them.

我試著看了看牛頰肉，沒有找到。

And finally?

最後呢？

Finally, the riblets.

最後是波紋片。

Basically, the fattier part of the short rib.

基本上是指短肋骨較肥的部分。

Everybody loves a good short rib.

人人都愛美味的短肋排。

That just bursts umami from beef.

這讓牛肉的鮮味更加濃郁。

You'll see one thick layer of fat, a layer of membrane, and a little bit of tendon.

你會看到一層厚厚的脂肪、一層薄膜和一點點肌腱。

It's too chewy for most classic Western preparations.

對於大多數經典的西式烹飪來說，它太有嚼勁了。

A very, very underrated part of the cow that's used in a lot of Asian cooking.

這是牛身上被低估的一部分，在很多亞洲烹飪中都會用到。

And, oh, I'll, before we continue, check out the scallions.

還有，哦，在我們繼續之前，我要看看蔥花。

Scallions are about to go into the fat as well.

蔥也要放入油脂中了。

From a scientific perspective, there are flavors that can be extracted by different solvents.

從科學的角度來看，不同的溶劑可以提取出不同的味道。

One is water, another is oil.

一個是水，另一個是油。

And in something like beef noodle soup, it's important to have both.

而像牛肉麵這樣的湯，兩者都要有是很重要的。

When you're drinking this soup, that oil is going to be the top layer of that soup.

當你喝湯的時候，油會成為湯的表層。

And because it's going to be hot, those aromatic compounds are going to slowly rise from the top of the soup, go into your nose.

由於湯會很燙，那些芳香化合物會慢慢從湯的頂部升起，進入你的鼻子。

That thin layer of oil is the first interaction, the first culinary flavor experience of the entire thing.

那層薄薄的油是第一次互動，是整個烹飪過程中的第一次風味體驗。

That's why it's so important to take care and every single thing is as flavorful as possible from step number one.

是以，從第一步開始，就必須小心謹慎，儘可能讓每一樣東西都味道鮮美。

Are we frying the onions now?

我們現在要炒洋蔥嗎？

Yes, we are.

是的，我們是。

Onion time.

洋蔥時間

So the onions cook down for about an hour until they're nice and caramelized.

是以，洋蔥要煮大約一個小時，直到變成焦糖狀。

And this step is essential to creating a broth that has varied levels of sweetness and not just sweetness from sugar.

這一步對於製作甜度不同的肉湯至關重要，而不僅僅是糖的甜味。

It's been about an hour or so and it really resembles the more conventional caramelized onions.

大約過了一個小時左右，它真的很像傳統的焦糖洋蔥。

You cannot cheat.

你不能作弊。

It takes time, it takes patience, and it takes slow heat.

這需要時間、耐心和慢熱。

Chef is going to be sauteing his seasonings in the same exact wok.

大廚要用同樣的炒鍋來炒他的調料。

We're just gonna add a little bit more fat, but we want to keep all of that onion flavor.

我們只是要多加一點油脂，但要保留洋蔥的香味。

This mixture of fermented bean paste, Chef uses three different types of bean paste.

這種混合發酵的豆醬，廚師使用了三種不同的豆醬。

The Sichuan-style fermented baba bean paste, called pi xian dou ban.

四川風味的發酵粑粑豆瓣醬，名為皮縣豆瓣。

The more traditional Taiwanese-style fermented soy bean paste, called gang san la dou ban.

比較傳統的臺式發酵豆醬，稱為幫三拉豆瓣。

And the third, tian jiu liang dou hu ru, is a sweet rice wine, hu ru, which is a fermented soy bean.

第三種是甜米酒 "天九涼豆胡酒"，胡酒是一種發酵的黃豆。

Chef, you're a Hakka.

大廚，你是客家人。

Yeah, yeah, my mom's a Hakka.

是啊，是啊，我媽媽是客家人。

So Chef's mom is Hakka and that is his ode to his mother.

廚師的母親是客家人，這是他對母親的頌歌。

As you can see, it has the byproduct of making rice wine as well as the soy beans themselves and the pressed ground soy bean.

正如你所看到的，它既有釀造米酒的副產品，也有黃豆本身和壓榨的黃豆粉。

Oh, wow.

哦，哇

It has that nice kick of sweetness in the back while being very, very savory of crunch.

它既有甜味，又有香脆的口感。

It's super, super funky as well.

它也超級超級時髦。

There's so much sugar inside the bean paste, if Chef is not constantly agitating it in the wok, it's going to stick to the bottom and burn immediately.

豆瓣醬裡有很多糖，如果廚師不在炒鍋裡不斷攪拌，豆瓣醬就會粘在鍋底，馬上就會燒焦。

So this step is gonna be 10 minutes and after, we're gonna be adding in the soy sauce and then cooking the soy sauce down with the bean paste.

這一步需要 10 分鐘，然後加入醬油，再把醬油和豆瓣醬一起煮。

Chef is going to be adding these two sugars.

廚師將加入這兩種糖。

This is rock sugar, which is a much milder sweetness and this is called tai tang er sha and it has a much more malty and molassy flavor.

這是冰糖，甜味要溫和得多，這叫大唐二砂，麥芽味和糖蜜味要濃郁得多。

I think Chef's philosophy is to season things with the same ingredient, but different flavor profiles, right?

我認為大廚的理念是用相同的食材，但不同的口味來調味，對嗎？

So two types of sugar, three types of dou ban.

是以，有兩種糖，三種豆禁令。

In goes the beef tallow, scallion and spices.

放入牛脂、蔥和香料。

We're going to be pouring this entire vat of seasoning into the broth and this becomes our base for beef noodle soup.

我們將把整桶調料倒入肉湯中，這就是牛肉湯麵的底料。

And now we're gonna be adding in the rice wine and the tomatoes.

現在我們要加入米酒和番茄。

The tomatoes are skinless.

西紅柿去皮。

They go through that painstaking process of poaching tomatoes and then peeling the skin one by one, just so there's no bitterness from the skin leaching into the broth.

他們要經過水煮西紅柿的艱苦過程，然後一個一個地剝皮，這樣才不會讓西紅柿皮的苦味滲入肉湯中。

I'm sitting here, not an expert, but I am excited about tasting the layers of flavor that Chef has spent so much time building up.

我坐在這裡，雖然不是專家，但能品嚐到大廚花了這麼多時間調製出來的層層美味，我感到非常興奮。

It needs to be beefy, salty, sweet and all of it needs to be balanced out with each other.

它需要有牛肉味、鹹味、甜味，而且所有這些味道都要相互平衡。

The general timing of all the beef is the large beef cheeks go in first for about 30 minutes and then followed by beef shanks and the smaller beef cheeks for 20 minutes and then finally the riblets go in for about 10 minutes.

一般來說，所有牛肉的烹飪時間都是先將大塊牛頰肉放入鍋中烹飪 30 分鐘左右，然後將牛腿肉和小塊牛頰肉放入鍋中烹飪 20 分鐘，最後將牛肋排放入鍋中烹飪 10 分鐘左右。

That adds up to one hour, followed by another hour of resting, totaling two hours of cook time.

這加起來就是一個小時，然後再休息一個小時，總共兩個小時的烹飪時間。

Also the beef needs to be braised to a point where it's tender, but it's not overly tender because you can overcook a beef shank.

此外，牛肉需要燉到軟爛的程度，但又不能太軟，因為牛腿肉可能會燉得太爛。

You can't overcook a beef cheek.

牛腩不能煮得太熟。

It needs to have a structural integrity, not like a steak, but it needs to fight back a little bit in your mouth and not just completely give.

它需要有一個完整的結構，而不是像牛排那樣，但它需要在你的口中有一點反擊，而不是完全屈服。

What makes food incredible is the attention to detail and I want to point out a couple of things.

食物之所以令人難以置信，是因為它注重細節，我想指出其中的幾點。

All the way at the end, you have a noodle cooker.

一直到最後，你就有了一個煮麵器。

Chef is very, very proud of that noodle cooker.

大廚對這個煮麵爐非常非常自豪。

It's an expensive machine because it's a Japanese imported machine that constantly is refreshing the pasta water that that noodle is being cooked in.

這是一臺昂貴的機器，因為它是日本進口的，可以不斷刷新煮麵條的面水。

If it weren't for this feature, it would pick up all of this starch from the noodles that were cooked before, meaning that the noodle gets soggier and soggier and soggier over time.

如果沒有這個功能，麵條就會吸收之前煮過的麵條中的所有澱粉，這意味著麵條會隨著時間的推移變得越來越鬆軟。

The second thing is there's a little bit of a thermometer right above one of the chefs that is keeping the soup at exactly 94 degrees.

第二件事是，在其中一位廚師的上方有一個溫度計，可以將湯的溫度保持在 94 度。

At that temperature, with a thin sheen of oil over the top, you won't run into the issue of too much of that soup evaporating and that soup getting too salty over time.

在這樣的溫度下，上面再覆蓋一層薄薄的油膜，就不會出現湯汁蒸發過多和湯汁過鹹的問題了。

The noodle's going to cook for about two minutes.

麵條要煮兩分鐘左右。

There are two types of noodles here.

這裡有兩種麵條。

First is a thicker noodle, pure wheat, sort of inspired by the daoxiao mian from China.

首先是一種較粗的麵條，純小麥的，有點像中國的餃子面。

And then there's a slightly yellow, thinner noodle that has the addition of a little bit of alkaline for a little bit of bounce.

還有一種略黃、較細的麵條，添加了一點鹼性物質，有一點彈性。

Both are legitimate choices and everybody has their own preferences.

兩者都是合理的選擇，每個人都有自己的偏好。

Bright greens over the top, mostly for color.

頂部是明亮的綠色，主要是為了增添色彩。

First is the shank.

首先是柄部。

Second is the cheek.

其次是臉頰。

And third, the rib.

第三，肋骨。

One of each, a little bit of tendon and tripe over the top.

各一份，上面再放一點腱子肉和牛肚。

Almost all of the textures that a cow has to offer.

牛身上幾乎所有的紋理。

It's beautiful, it's glistening.

它是美麗的，它是閃閃發光的。

And over the top is the soul of the dish, really, the soup.

而湯則是這道菜的靈魂所在。

You see that thin sheen of oil?

看到那層薄薄的油膜了嗎？

That's where all of the aromatics are.

所有的芳香劑都在這裡。

That's where all the brightness is.

這就是所有亮點所在。

Scallions over the top for herbaceousness and a touch of cilantro.

在上面撒上蔥花，增加香草味，再放上少許香菜。

I'm getting kind of hungry.

我有點餓了。

Show me how we do this.

告訴我我們該怎麼做。

Let's order.

點菜吧

So first, grab a ticket.

所以，首先要買票。

We're number 220.

我們是第 220 號。

Okay.

好的

And we grab a menu right here and a marker.

我們在這裡拿一個菜單和一個標記。

This entire section is the beef noodle soup section.

這整個區域都是牛肉湯麵區。

You get to choose the size of your bowl, the thickness of your noodle, doneness of your noodle, and richness of your broth.

您可以選擇碗的大小、麵條的粗細、麵條的軟硬和湯的濃淡。

Okay.

好的

So, it's a lot.

所以，這是一個很大的問題。

But, let me just.

但是，讓我

I just need the Eric Z special here.

我只需要埃裡克-Z 在這裡的特別節目。

Eric Z special, like all things Eric Z, maximum everything.

埃裡克-Z 特別版，就像埃裡克-Z 的所有作品一樣，最大限度地展現了一切。

Okay.

好的

I love New Orleans Jidam because right now it's past midnight and they're still full.

我喜歡新奧爾良吉達姆，因為現在已經過了午夜，但他們仍然客滿。

Growing up in Taipei, I've never had a place that serves beef noodle soup at this quality past midnight, period.

我在臺北長大，從來沒有一家店的牛肉湯麵能在午夜過後還能如此美味。

And as a beef noodle soup fanatic, having an establishment like this changes the game.

作為牛肉湯麵的狂熱愛好者，有了這樣一家店，遊戲規則就變了。

The whole thing with beef noodle soup is there are all these stories of Chinese pilots bringing in certain bean paste from certain places, noodles being brought in from different places, and all these things, and the not consumption of beef, and now there's a consumption of beef, and all these different stories.

關於牛肉湯麵的所有故事都是關於中國飛行員從某些地方帶來豆瓣醬、從不同地方帶來麵條，以及所有這些事情，還有不食用牛肉和現在食用牛肉，以及所有這些不同的故事。

The creation of the beef noodle soup itself seems to be a process of, I really don't want to use the word fusion, but the bringing together of cultures and influences.

牛肉麵的製作本身似乎就是一個融合的過程，我真的不想用融合這個詞，而是將各種文化和影響融合在一起。

And to continue in that tradition of not being restricted by what you're influenced by, I think chef is introducing some really interesting ingredients and techniques into his beef noodle soup.

為了繼續發揚不受限制的傳統，我認為主廚在牛肉麵中引入了一些非常有趣的配料和技術。

They just called my number.

他們剛打了我的電話。

Xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie.

Xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie xie。

First things first, safety is our first priority.

首先，安全是我們的第一要務。

Adhesive, disposable bibs from New Orleans Jidam.

來自新奧爾良 Jidam 的一次性粘合圍兜。

Wait, wait, wait, first you try the broth.

等等，等等，你先嚐嘗肉湯。

If the broth is good, you're in for a treat.

如果肉湯好喝，那你就大飽口福了。

Yum.

百勝

Yum.

百勝

It's actually way brighter than I expected.

實際上，它比我想象的要亮得多。

Yeah.

是啊

The tomato at the end.

最後的西紅柿

Has a very nice punch to it.

具有很強的衝擊力。

The tomato gives it that like acidity, it lifts the whole thing with the herbaceousness from the cilantro and the scallions.

番茄帶來酸味，與香菜和蔥的香草味一起提升了整道菜的口感。

And it's quite beefy as well, but if you want it beefier, on every table is this condiment, which is a spicy beef tallow made from the renderings of beef fat.

這道菜也很有牛肉味，但如果你想吃得更有牛肉味，每張桌子上都有這種調味品，它是一種用牛油製成的辣味牛脂。

With chili or pi xian dou ban?

用辣椒還是皮縣豆瓣？

With chili and a little bit of dou ban, and often a little bit of sugar.

加辣椒和一點豆瓣醬，通常還加一點糖。

So the way to do it, is dab it into a spoonful of broth.

是以，做法是將其滴在一勺肉湯中。

There we go.

好了

And then you melt it right here, and then you incorporate it into the whole bowl.

然後在這裡融化，再把它融入整個碗裡。

Okay, this is quite spicy, right?

好吧，這很辣，對吧？

Or not really?

還是真的沒有？

Not really that spicy, it's more beefy.

其實沒那麼辣，更多的是牛肉味。

Let's pull it here.

把它拉過來

You can almost see the texture.

你幾乎可以看到紋理。

Immediately you know the noodles are perfectly cooked.

麵條立刻就熟透了。

Nice and springy.

漂亮又有彈性。

So these are the thin alkaline noodles, right?

這就是鹼面吧？

Yes.

是的。

These are the ones that you like?

你喜歡這些嗎？

Yeah.

是啊

I'm gonna go in.

我要進去了

Okay.

好的

Mmm.

嗯

Best thing about eating with a buddy, you get to switch.

和朋友一起吃飯的最大好處就是可以換著吃。

I kind of want, Eric was kind of right in one of the thin noodles, but here we are.

我有點想，埃裡克在其中一條細麵條裡說得有點對，但我們還是來了。

All aspects of your palate are hit.

您的味覺將受到全方位的衝擊。