I think I own about 30, 40 pairs of jeans.

我想我有 30 到 40 條牛仔褲。

Hey what's up everyone, this is GQ Recommends and today we are going to talk about jeans.

大家好，這裡是 GQ Recommends，今天我們來談談牛仔褲。

How often do I wear jeans?

我多久穿一次牛仔褲？

I mean, I wear jeans every day, unless I'm going to like a funeral or something.

我的意思是，我每天都穿牛仔褲，除非我要去參加葬禮什麼的。

They're endlessly versatile and go with everything you own.

它們用途廣泛，可以搭配你擁有的一切。

Jeans fit exist on such a wide spectrum, all of our bodies are different so all of our jeans should be different as well.

牛仔褲的合身度存在著很大的差異，我們每個人的身材都不盡相同，是以我們的牛仔褲也應該有所不同。

Straight leg jeans are the original cut of jeans, the Levi's 501, the holy grail of all jeans, that is the jean that invented jeans.

直筒牛仔褲是牛仔褲的原始剪裁，Levi's 501 是牛仔褲中的聖盃，是牛仔褲的發明者。

The 501 is probably the place to start, it's a straight silhouette, there's no like narrow taper or anything, it's not too tight, it's not too relaxed.

從 501 開始，它的輪廓是直的，沒有窄窄的錐形什麼的，不會太緊，也不會太鬆。

The rise, which is to say like how high or low the waist goes, is usually like what we would call a mid-rise.

上圍，也就是腰圍的高低，通常是我們所說的中圍。

A pair of like really classic straight leg jeans feel to me so much like that greaser movement.

一條真正經典的直筒牛仔褲給我的感覺就像 "嬉皮士運動"。

I love to throw a denim jacket on top and go full Canadian tuxedo, I am Canadian so it's my birthright.

我喜歡在外面套一件牛仔夾克，穿上全套加拿大燕尾服，我是加拿大人，所以這是我與生俱來的權利。

Wear a tough pair of boots with them, just wear a classic white t-shirt with them.

搭配一雙硬朗的靴子，穿一件經典的白色 T 恤就可以了。

Denzel looking like a king at the airport.

丹澤爾在機場像個國王。

This is a great example of how these jeans can dress up or dress down.

這條牛仔褲就是一個很好的例子，它既可以穿得很正式，也可以穿得很低調。

You throw them on with a t-shirt, you throw them on with a jacket, they look just as killer.

你可以把它和 T 恤一起穿，也可以把它和夾克一起穿，看起來都一樣迷人。

It's pretty easy to dress up a straight leg, I mean how I would do it is probably like a blazer, maybe a button up shirt, maybe even like denim on denim like with a western shirt and a blazer.

直筒褲很容易打扮，我的意思是我可能會搭配西裝外套、鈕釦襯衫，甚至是牛仔褲配牛仔褲，比如西服襯衫和西裝外套。

There are some photos of Harrison Ford looking great.

有幾張哈里森-福特的照片，他看起來很精神。

If you're looking to buy a pair, if you're on a budget, the best place to start is Levi's, they invented the American blue jean, or you could try a brand like Leftfield, it's really hardy, it's really tough, it looks like the jeans that James Dean would have worn in the 50s.

如果你想買一條，如果你的預算有限，最好從李維斯開始，他們發明了美國藍色牛仔褲，或者你也可以試試像 Leftfield 這樣的品牌，它非常耐磨，非常堅韌，看起來就像詹姆斯-迪恩在 50 年代穿的牛仔褲。

If you're really trying to get freaky and trying to step things up, then you can go to a Japanese label like Capital, they are the be all and end all of artisanal denim with interesting colors, with interesting weaves, it's just, it's art.

如果你真的想變得怪異，想更上一層樓，那麼你可以去像 Capital 這樣的日本品牌，他們是手工牛仔布的全部，有著有趣的顏色，有趣的編織，簡直就是藝術。

A flare jean is a very 70s style, it's a very sort of like rock and roll, it feels very retro these days.

喇叭牛仔褲是 70 年代的風格，有點像搖滾樂，現在感覺很復古。

I think flare kind of covers or encompasses several different categories, you have the boot cut which is made for like putting over a cowboy boot, and then you have the bell bottom 70s style which can get like crazy.

我認為喇叭褲涵蓋了幾種不同的款式，有靴子剪裁的款式，可以套在牛仔靴上；還有 70 年代的喇叭褲款式，可以讓人瘋狂。

I like to wear flare jeans with black chelsea boots, which looks really classic, but I also like to just wear them with, you know, samba sneakers.

我喜歡用喇叭牛仔褲搭配黑色切爾西靴，這樣看起來非常經典，但我也喜歡用它搭配桑巴運動鞋。

These guys are all wearing Capital hippie jeans, which are basically vintage pairs of denim patched in this really crazy way to sort of evoke the style of denim worn by hippies in the 60s.

這些人都穿著 Capital 嬉皮士牛仔褲，這種牛仔褲基本上都是復古的牛仔褲，上面打著非常瘋狂的補丁，讓人聯想到 60 年代嬉皮士穿的牛仔褲風格。

It's really cool when you can sort of bring it into the modern day by wearing it with

如果你能把它與現代服飾搭配在一起，那就太酷了。

Jordans, I think that's super fly.

喬丹斯，我覺得你太帥了。

Jeremy O'Hara's, love Jeremy O'Hara's, I believe these are Gucci jeans, they look amazing.

Jeremy O'Hara's，我喜歡 Jeremy O'Hara's，我想這是 Gucci 的牛仔褲，看起來棒極了。

That's a flare, it's definitely wider than like a boot cut jean.

這是喇叭褲，肯定比靴型牛仔褲寬。

If you're gonna do a cropped flare, do it like this, so you can see the loafer, I wouldn't go any higher than that.

如果你要剪裁成喇叭形，就像這樣，這樣你就能看到休閒鞋，我不會再往上剪了。

If you walk into any good vintage store these days, you'll find a rack of flare jeans.

如今，如果你走進任何一家好的古董店，都會發現有一排喇叭牛仔褲。

On the runway, there's a lot of designers doing pretty aggressive, you know, radical flare silhouettes.

在天橋上，很多設計師的設計都非常激進，你知道，激進的喇叭輪廓。

Levi's actually just reintroduced a flare silhouette that's high-waisted and has a nice subtle flared leg.

事實上，Levi's 剛剛重新推出了一款喇叭褲，高腰設計，褲腿微微外擴。

I think for flare jeans, Wrangler for sure.

我想，如果是喇叭牛仔褲，肯定是 Wrangler。

Love Levi's, love a La Mer jean, Gucci makes a great flare jean, Celine makes a great flare jean, if you're looking to splurge.

喜歡 Levi's，喜歡 La Mer 牛仔褲，Gucci 做的喇叭牛仔褲很不錯，如果你想花錢，Celine 做的喇叭牛仔褲也很不錯。

Today, I'm wearing a pair of slim straight jeans, a trimmed down, but definitely not skinny take on a classic straight leg.

今天，我穿的是一條修身直筒牛仔褲，是經典直筒褲的修身版，但絕對不顯瘦。

These in particular are vintage Levi's 505s from the early 70s.

尤其是這些 70 年代初的老式 Levi's 505。

I would say a pretty formal look, all things considered, I'm actually wearing what's called a tie.

我想說的是，從各方面考慮，這都是很正式的打扮，實際上我還打了所謂的領帶。

So a slim straight silhouette is pretty similar to a straight leg, you can think of it as like still a straight silhouette, but a little bit narrower.

是以，修身直筒褲的輪廓與直筒褲非常相似，你可以把它想象成仍然是直筒褲的輪廓，只是稍微窄了一點。

And generally, the slimmer you get, the waist will also be a little bit lower.

一般來說，身材越苗條，腰圍也會越低一些。

I wouldn't say they're low-rise, but they're usually a little bit lower than a mid-rise.

我不會說它們是低腰的，但它們通常比中腰的要低一點。

They sit really nicely over a pair of sleeker Chelsea boots, or clean-toed derbies, or even classic chucks.

穿上它，再配上一雙時尚的切爾西靴子、乾淨利落的德比鞋，甚至是經典的卡其褲，都非常合適。

I would actually pair this with a more formal shoe.

實際上，我會給它配上更正式的鞋子。

I think they look really great with a pair of cowboy boots and just a plain t-shirt.

我覺得它們搭配一雙牛仔靴和一件普通的 T 恤衫非常好看。

I mean, if you have a plain white t-shirt and a pair of jeans, you have an outfit.

我的意思是，如果你有一件普通的白色 T 恤和一條牛仔褲，你就有了一套衣服。

I would generally try to keep the silhouette up top similar, a shirt that's a little bit more fitted.

一般來說，我會盡量讓上身的輪廓保持相似，襯衫會更合身一些。

Again, not like skinny.

同樣，也不像瘦。

I would add that if you're worried about buying a pair of jeans that will look dated for some reason in five years, you're safe with these.

我還想補充一點，如果你擔心買了一條牛仔褲，五年後會因為某些原因而顯得過時，那麼買這條牛仔褲就很安全。

They will always look timeless because they're not very timely.

它們看起來總是永恆的，因為它們不是很及時。

Every brand has their own slim silhouette.

每個品牌都有自己的修身剪裁。

If you're really like, I don't know anything else, I'll just go to Levi's, you can do that.

如果你真的想，我什麼都不知道，我就去 Levi's，你可以這樣做。

Jack Mason also is a little bit more expensive, and from there, man, like, what brand doesn't make one?

傑克-梅森（Jack Mason）也要貴一點，從那以後，老兄，哪個品牌不生產這種產品？

If you're looking to spend a little bit more, I think a lot of guys will start to go to

如果你想多花一點錢，我想很多人都會開始選擇

APC, or 316, or Rag & Bone.

APC，或 316，或 Rag & Bone。

These are the Ramones in a classic slim, straight jean.

這就是經典修身直筒牛仔褲中的雷蒙斯樂隊。

I love how much attitude they have, like how much punk-ish derision they have for the men.

我喜歡他們的態度，比如他們對男人的朋克式嘲笑。

I think it all comes from the jeans.

我認為這一切都源於牛仔褲。

High-waisted jeans are exactly what they sound like.

高腰牛仔褲果然名不虛傳。

They sit high in your waist, kind of up to your navel.

它們位於腰部的高處，有點像肚臍。

It's a very late 80s, early 90s look.

這是一種 80 年代末、90 年代初的風格。

It gives you that like Freddie Mercury, Jimi Hendrix type of vibe.

它給人一種弗雷迪-墨丘利（Freddie Mercury）和吉米-亨德里克斯（Jimi Hendrix）的感覺。

It kind of elongates your body.

它能拉長你的身體。

It's relaxed, but also feels a bit more like pulled in since it fits up here.

它很寬鬆，但也感覺有點像拉鍊，因為它在這裡很合身。

High-waisted jeans being cool again is a very recent thing.

高腰牛仔褲重新變酷是最近的事。

I think you'll remember in like the 2000s, early 2010s, low-rise was still a thing, right, for men and women.

我想你應該還記得，在 2000 年代或 2010 年代初，低胸裝還很流行，對吧，無論男女。

We've started to see those waistlines creep up higher and higher.

我們已經開始看到腰圍越來越高。

Your waistline is fully on display.

你的腰圍一覽無餘。

You should have a fun belt to show it off, whether that's something really classic, whether that's a little bit thinner, which might be a cool look, whether it's a fun, loud color.

你應該有一條有趣的腰帶來展示它，無論是非常經典的腰帶，還是稍微細一點的腰帶，這可能是一個很酷的外觀，或者是一個有趣的、響亮的顏色。

Definitely when you have a high-waisted jean, you should tuck in your shirt.

穿高腰牛仔褲時，一定要把襯衫塞進去。

I think you want people to see that it's a high-waisted jean, and it just also accentuates your figure.

我想你是想讓人們看到這是一條高腰牛仔褲，而且它還能突出你的身材。

I like a half-tuck.

我喜歡半褶襉。

If you're wearing a button-down, I'm known to do a half-tuck.

如果你穿的是鈕釦襯衫，我就會做一個半褶襉。

I think if you're wearing a t-shirt, tuck it in fully.

我覺得如果你穿的是 T 恤，就把它完全塞進去。

For a more accessible jean, so like under $100, I like Wrangler's dress jean.

如果想買一條更平易近人的牛仔褲，比如 100 美元以下的，我喜歡 Wrangler 的連衣裙牛仔褲。

It has a bit of a flare.

它有一點耀眼。

It's higher-waisted, but it feels more dressy.

腰部較高，但感覺更正式。

Evan Mauck, this is an amazingly bold look.

埃文-莫克，你的造型太大膽了。

There's his navel.

那是他的肚臍。

The jeans, being that high, do a lot of the work here, making sure that you're not exposing too much, and yet just that little bit of skin takes this look to a whole other level.

牛仔褲那麼高，在這裡做了很多工作，確保你不會暴露太多，但就是那一點點皮膚，讓這個造型達到了另一個層次。

I think I'd love to own these pair of jeans.

我想我很想擁有這條牛仔褲。

The detailing in the pockets is great.

口袋的細節設計非常棒。

They're a great fit.

它們非常合身。

They're not too tight around your calves.

小腿周圍不會太緊。

They're wider at the bottom.

底部更寬。

There's like a two-inch break there, which is always great.

那裡好像有兩英寸長的斷裂帶，這總是很棒的。

By the boot, David Bowie is David Bowie.

在開機時，大衛-鮑伊就是大衛-鮑伊。

How could you not love everything about David Bowie?

你怎麼能不喜歡大衛-鮑伊的一切呢？

Yeah, he has great denim.

是的，他的牛仔褲很棒。

Kind of a faded black wash.

有點像褪色的黑色水洗。

Has a great belt.

腰帶很棒

They sit higher-waisted.

它們的腰圍更高。

They hug your calf, which is awesome.

它們緊貼小腿，非常棒。

Yeah, this is a sick look.

是啊，這造型太噁心了。

So what are skater jeans?

那麼什麼是滑板牛仔褲呢？

I'm not a skateboarder, obviously.

顯然，我不是滑板愛好者。

Skaters tend to wear jeans that are wider in the thigh.

溜冰者往往穿大腿較寬的牛仔褲。

It's just easier to be active in jeans that are not tight in the thighs.

大腿不緊繃的牛仔褲更容易讓人活躍起來。

Skaters also tend to wear jeans that are cropped, if not super cropped, at least not super long.

滑冰者也傾向於穿剪裁的牛仔褲，即使不是超短，至少也不會超長。

You don't want too much jean getting in the way of what you're doing.

你不想讓太多的牛仔褲妨礙你的工作。

You want to also show off your sneakers.

您還想展示您的運動鞋。

So in my mind, a skater cut is lower on the waist for sure, but it's pretty loose and fluid, probably held up by a shoelace felt, if anything.

是以，在我看來，短裙的腰部肯定要低一些，但它非常寬鬆流暢，如果有的話，可能是用鞋帶氈撐起來的。

Funnily enough, I think the people who style skater jeans the best are actual skaters.

有趣的是，我認為最會穿滑板牛仔褲的人是真正的滑板運動員。

So at Endpoint south of Canal Street, you'll see guys in baggy t-shirts, super low-rise jeans and maybe a trucker hat.

是以，在運河街以南的 Endpoint，你會看到穿著寬鬆 T 恤、超短牛仔褲的人，也許還戴著一頂卡車司機帽。

They naturally lend themselves towards less formal outfits, although you can certainly pair them with a pair of clogs and a really large double-breasted overcoat and still look pretty sick.

這雙鞋自然適合不太正式的服裝，不過你當然也可以用它來搭配一雙木屐和一件寬大的雙排扣大衣，看起來還是很有型的。

I do have a couple pairs of jeans that are sort of reminiscent of skater jeans, such as this pair, which is quite wide in the thighs and then also a little cropped.

我確實有幾條牛仔褲有點像短褲，比如這條，它的大腿很寬，又有點窄。

It's super adaptable.

適應性超強。

You know, today I'm wearing them with chunky Prada Chelsea boots, but yesterday I wore them with loafers.

要知道，今天我穿的是 Prada 厚底切爾西靴，而昨天我穿的是休閒鞋。

I wouldn't wear skater jeans with a jacket, a button-down shirt.

我不會穿溜冰牛仔褲配夾克和鈕釦襯衫。

I mostly just wear them with t-shirts.

我主要是搭配 T 恤衫穿。

So I'm looking at a picture of James Harbin wearing a very nicely fitting pair of skater jeans and he's a huge sneakerhead, so it makes sense that he wants a silhouette that kind of ends before his shoes.

我看到詹姆斯-哈爾濱（James Harbin）穿著一條非常合身的滑板牛仔褲的照片，他是一個超級運動鞋迷，所以他想要一個在他的鞋子之前就結束的輪廓也是情理之中的。

James Harbin makes these look just so easy.

詹姆斯-哈爾濱讓這些看起來如此簡單。

As you can see, they're a little paint splattered.

如你所見，它們有點油漆飛濺。

I'm not sure if that happened when he was in the studio.

我不確定這是否發生在他在錄音室的時候。

I think either way, it looks kind of cool.

我覺得不管怎樣，它看起來都很酷。

I would also point out that he's obviously a taller dude and this makes him look really well-proportioned because they're cropped and don't put too much emphasis on his lower half.

我還想指出的是，他顯然是個高個子，這讓他看起來非常勻稱，因為它們是剪裁過的，沒有過多強調他的下半身。

A$AP Rocky is obviously a style god.

A$AP Rocky 顯然是一位時尚之神。

I don't think he's ever worn a bad fit.

我不認為他穿過不合身的衣服。

And these jeans are cropped at the hem.

這條牛仔褲的下襬是剪裁的。

He's wearing them with Vans.

他穿的是 Vans 鞋。

It looks like Rocky has a little strand of pearls sort of serving as a wallet chain.

看起來，洛基有一串珍珠項鍊，有點像錢包鏈。

I've never seen that before.

我以前從沒見過。

I think it's incredible.

我覺得這太不可思議了。

If you're looking for under $100 skater jeans, I'd probably go to Levi's in the roughly $300 range.

如果你想買 100 美元以下的滑板牛仔褲，我可能會選擇 300 美元左右的 Levi's。

Sounds unconventional, but I'd probably send you to Supreme despite the graphic tease.

聽起來不走尋常路，但我可能會送你去 Supreme，儘管有畫面上的挑逗。

These skater jeans are super sturdy and will last you for years.

這些短褲非常結實，可以讓你穿上好幾年。

Well, thanks for watching all of our wonderful jean content.

感謝您收看我們所有精彩的牛仔褲內容。

Tune in next time for whatever else we're going to talk about.

下次請繼續收聽我們的其他話題。