speak at this conference

在這次的會議中說了

about the power of the human mind.

很多關於人們意志力的力量

And what I'd like to do today

而我今天想做的

is give you a vivid example

是給你們一個活生生的例子

of how that power can be unleashed

關於這些力量如何被釋放出來的

when someone is in a survival situation,

當一個人在一個生死攸關的情況下

how the will to survive can bring that out in people.

那生存的意志力是如何從人們激發出來

This is an incident which occurred on Mount Everest;

這是一次發生在聖母峰上的事件

it was the worst disaster in the history of Everest.

這是一個聖母峰史上最嚴重的山難

And when it occurred, I was the only doctor on the mountain.

而且當時我是山上唯一的一個醫生

So I'll take you through that

所以呢我會帶你們一起去體會

and we'll see what it's like

然後我們會看到這就像

when someone really

當一個人確實

summons the will to survive.

召喚出意志力以求生存是甚麼樣子。

OK, this is Mount Everest.

ok 這就是聖母峰。

It's 29,035 feet high.

她高 29,035 英尺。

I've been there six times: Four times I did work with National Geographic,

我曾經去過那裡六次，其中四次是和國家地理頻道一起，

making tectonic plate measurements;

做關於板塊的測量。

twice, I went with NASA

另外兩次我是跟NASA一起去的

doing remote sensing devices.

做關於遙測系統的測試。

It was on my fourth trip to Everest

這是我的第四次聖母峰之旅

that a comet passed over the mountain. Hyakutake.

這個是百武彗星，剛好畫過山際

And the Sherpas told us then

然後這些夏爾巴人（當地住民）告訴我們

that was a very bad omen,

那個彗星是一個不好的預兆

and we should have listened to them.

而我們真的應該要聽他們的

Everest is an extreme environment.

聖母峰上面真的是一個很艱困的環境

There's only one-third as much oxygen at the summit as there is at sea level.

在頂峰的地方氧氣含量大約只有平地的三分之一

Near the summit, temperatures

頂峰的氣溫呢

can be 40 degrees below zero.

大約是華氏40度到零度

You can have winds 20 to 40 miles an hour.

風速大概是每小時20到40英里

It's actually a wind-chill factor

她的風寒指標呢

which is lower than a summer day on Mars.

大概比火星的夏天還要低

I remember one time being up near the summit,

我記得有一次在頂峰的附近

I reached into my down jacket

我伸手進我的羽毛外套

for a drink from my water bottle,

想要從我的水壺喝口水

inside my down jacket,

在我的羽毛外套裡面

only to discover that the water was already frozen solid.

卻發現裡面的水居然已經結冰凝固了！

That gives you an idea of just how severe

這樣讓你有一些概念關於

things are near the summit.

頂峰附近的情況有多麼惡劣

OK, this is the route up Everest.

好的，這是上聖母峰的路徑

It starts at base camp, at 17,500 feet.

它從位於一萬七千五百英尺的基地營開始

Camp One, 2,000 feet higher.

再往上兩千英尺是一號營

Camp Two, another 2,000 feet higher up,

一號營再往上兩千英尺是二號營

what's called the Western Cwm.

也稱為 Western Cwn (西谷)

CampThree is at the base of Lhotse,

三號營位於洛子峰的底部

which is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but it's dwarfed by Everest.

他是世界上的第四高峰，但是在聖母峰前面也變得矮小

And then Camp Four is the highest camp;

接著四號營是最高的營地

that's 3,000 feet short of the summit.

它距離峰頂不到三千英尺

This is a view of base camp.

這是我們基地營的一張照片

This is pitched on a glacier at 17,500 feet.

它紮營在一萬七千五百英尺的冰河上

It's the highest point you can bring your yaks

這是你能帶你的氂牛到的最高位置

before you have to unload.

在你必須要卸下裝備之前

And this is what they unloaded for me:

然後這是他們幫我卸貨的東西.

I had four yak loads of medical supplies,

我帶了四隻載滿醫療補給品的氂牛

which are dumped in a tent,

然後東西全部都倒在帳篷裡

and here I am trying to arrange things.

喔這個是我試著想要整理這些東西

This was our expedition.

這是我們的探勘團隊

It was a National Geographic expedition,

這是國家地理的探勘隊伍

but it was organized by The Explorers Club.

但是他是由The Explorers Club.所組成的

There were three other expeditions on the mountain,

另外還有三支探勘隊伍同時在山上

an American team, a New Zealand team

一個美國的隊伍，一個紐西蘭團隊，

and an IMAX team.

還有一個IMAX的隊伍。

And, after actually two months of preparation,

接著，在整整兩個月的準備之後，

we built our camps all the way up the mountain.

我們把我們的營地蓋在山上最高的地方。

This is a view looking up the icefall,

這是一張仰望冰瀑的景象。

the first 2,000 feet of the climb

爬了前兩千英尺之後遇到

up from base camp.

從基地營開始。

And here's a picture in the icefall;

這個是一張冰瀑的照片。

it's a waterfall, but it's frozen, but it moves very slowly,

他其實是一個瀑布，但是它結冰了，但它仍非常緩慢的移動，

and it actually changes every day.

所以它每天都還是會改變。

When you're in it, you're like a rat in a maze;

當你身在其中的時候，你就像一隻在迷宮裡頭的老鼠：

you can't even see over the top.

你甚至無法從上面看到全貌。

This is near the top of the icefall.

這是靠近冰瀑的頂端。

You want to climb through at night when the ice is frozen.

你會想要在晚上完全結冰了才爬上去。

That way, it's less likely to tumble down on you.

這樣它才比較不會垮在你身上。

These are some climbers reaching the top of the icefall just at sun-up.

這是一群登山客在太陽剛剛升起的時候爬到冰瀑頂端。

This is me crossing a crevasse.

這是我，正要越過一個冰隙。

We cross on aluminum ladders with safety ropes attached.

我們利用綁上安全繩的鋁梯來通過。

That's another crevasse.

這是另外一個冰隙。

Some of these things are 10 stories deep or more,

這些冰隙有些深達十層樓或者更高，

and one of my climbing friends says that

一個山友告訴我說

the reason we actually climb at night

我們之所以要在晚上爬過去的原因

is because if we ever saw the bottom

是因為如果我們一旦看到了冰隙的底部

of what we're climbing over,

是我們正要爬過去的，

we would never do it.

那我們永遠也不會這麼做。

Okay. This is Camp One.

好的，這是一號營。

It's the first flat spot you can reach

這是第一個你能夠到達的平坦處

after you get up to the top of the icefall.

在你爬到冰瀑的上方之後

And from there we climb up to Camp Two,

我們從這裡爬上第二營地

which is sort of the foreground.

有點像是前哨站

These are climbers moving up the Lhotse face,

這裡是登山客開始往洛子峰面攀爬的情況

that mountain toward Camp Three.

這座山也是第三營地的地方

They're on fixed ropes here.

他們都固定在繩索上攀爬

A fall here, if you weren't roped in,

如果你沒綁上繩索，就會在這跌下

would be 5,000 feet down.

差不多是五千英尺深

This is a view taken from camp three.

這是從第三營地拍的景觀

You can see the Lhotse face is in profile,

你可以看到洛子峰表面的輪廓

it's about a 45 degree angle. It takes two days to climb it,

大概呈現45度角，要花個兩天才能爬上去

so you put the camp halfway through.

所以你會紮營在半途中

If you notice, the summit of Everest is black.

如果你有注意到，聖母峰峰頂呈現黑色

There's no ice over it.

並沒有冰雪覆蓋在上面

And that's because Everest is so high,

那是因為呢，聖母峰太高

it's in the jet stream,

她在所謂的高速氣流當中

and winds are constantly scouring the face,

強風不斷的沖刷她的表面

so no snow gets to accumulate.

造成冰雪沒有辦法在上面堆積

What looks like a cloud behind the summit ridge

在頂峰邊緣看起來像是雲的東西

is actually snow being blown off the summit.

其實就是被風吹起來的冰雪

This is on the way up from Camp Three to Camp Four,

這是從三號營地攀爬到四號營地的途中

moving in, up through the clouds.

會走進並且穿越雲層

And this is at Camp Four.

然後這是在四號營地

Once you get to Camp Four, you have maybe 24 hours

一旦你到達了四號營地，你大概有二十四小時

to decide if you're going to go for the summit or not.

來決定你到底要不要攻頂

Everybody's on oxygen, your supplies are limited,

每一個人都帶著氧氣面罩。你的氧氣補給非常有限

and you either have to go up or go down,

所以你要攻頂還是下山

make that decision very quickly.

你要很快的做決定

This is a picture of Rob Hall.

這是一張Rob Hall的照片

He was the leader of the New Zealand team.

他是紐西蘭隊伍的領隊。

This is a radio he used later to call his wife

這是他晚點用來與他老婆聯繫的無線電

that I'll tell you about.

我等一下就會告訴你。

These are some climbers waiting to go to the summit.

這是一些等著攻頂的登山客。

They're up at Camp Four, and you can see that there's wind blowing off the summit.

他們正在四號營地，然後你可以看到後面頂峰上面強風不斷的吹著。

This is not good weather to climb in,

這不是一個適合攀爬的天氣，

so the climbers are just waiting, hoping that the wind's going to die down.

所以登山客們只能等著，希望強風能夠停下來。

And, in fact, the wind does die down at night.

然後，事實上風在晚上的確是停了下來。

It becomes very calm, there's no wind at all.

變得非常平靜，而且幾乎沒有風。

This looks like a good chance to go for the summit.

這看起來是個非常適合攻頂的好機會。

So here are some climbers starting out for the summit

所以有些登山客開始準備攻頂

on what's called the Triangular Face.

在所謂的三角點上。

It's the first part of climb.

這是攀登的第一個部份。

It's done in the dark, because it's actually less steep than what comes next,

這通常會在黑夜中完成，因為跟接下來比這算是比較不那麼陡峭的，

and you can gain daylight hours if you do this in the dark.

而且讓你可以賺到一點白天的時間，如果你是在黑夜中完成的。

So that's what happened.

然後這就是接下來發生的。

The climbers got on the southeast ridge.

這些登山客到了東南邊的山脊。

This is the view looking at the southeast ridge.

這是從東南脊觀看它的樣子。

The summit would be in the foreground.

這個山頂是個前台。

From here, it's about 1,500 feet

從這裡開始，它大約有一千五百英尺

up at a 30-degree angle to the summit.

以一個30度的傾角到達頂峰。

But what happened that year was

但是那年發生的事情是

the wind suddenly and unexpectedly picked up.

風突然不預期的又刮大了起來。

A storm blew in that no one was anticipating.

一個所有人預料之外的暴風。

You can see here some ferocious winds

你可以看到這裡一些非常強勁的風勢

blowing snow way high off the summit.

把雪吹得遠高過山頂。

And there were climbers on that summit ridge.

而且還有登山客還在山頂的山脊上。

This is a picture of me in that area

這張照片是我在同樣的地方

taken a year before,

在一年以前拍的，

and you can see I've got an oxygen mask on

你可以看到我戴著氧氣面罩

with a rebreather.

還有循環的呼吸器

I have an oxygen hose connected here.

我這還有個氧氣管連接在上面

You can see on this climber, we have two oxygen tanks in the backpack --

你可以看到在這位登山者身上，我們的背包都有兩罐氧氣筒

little titanium tanks, very lightweight --

小型的鈦合金筒，重量非常輕

and we're not carrying much else.

然後，我們並沒有多帶什麼

This is all you've got. You're very exposed on the summit ridge.

這是你全部所有的。你在山頂脊上是非常裸露沒有遮蔽的。

OK, this is a view taken on the summit ridge itself.

好，這是一張照片從山頂脊上拍下來的

This is on the way toward the summit,

這是在攻頂的半途中，

on that 1,500-foot bridge.

在那一千五百英尺的山脊。

All the climbers here are climbing unroped,

所有的登山人員都是沒有綁上繩子的

and the reason is because

那是由於

the drop off is so sheer on either side

兩邊下坡都是非常陡峭的，

that if you were roped to somebody,

如果你還和其他人綁著，

you'd wind up just pulling them off with you.

你最後會拉著他們跟著你掉下去。

So each person climbs individually.

所以每個人都只能靠自己獨立的爬。

And it's not a straight path at all,

而且這根本就不是什麼好走的路。

it's very difficult climbing,

它可是非常難爬的，

and there's always the risk

都必須要冒著可能會

of falling on either side.

掉下任何一邊的危險

If you fall to your left, you're going to fall

如果你從左邊掉下去，你將會墜落

8,000 feet into Nepal;

八千英尺到尼泊爾。

if you fall to your right,

如果你從右邊掉下去

you're going to fall 12,000 feet into Tibet.

你會墜落一萬兩千英尺深到西藏。

So it's probably better to fall into Tibet

所以，可能摔到西藏那邊會好一點

because you'll live longer.

因為你會活的久一點 （墜落時間比較長...）

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

But, either way, you fall for the rest of your life.

但是無論哪一邊，你都是跌下你剩下的人生。

OK. Those climbers were up near the summit,

好，這些登山者正沿著山脊，

along that summit ridge that you see up there,

你可以看到這裡爬到接近頂峰了

and I was down here in Camp Three.

當時我正在下面的三號營地這裡。

My expedition was down in Camp Three,

我的探勘隊伍駐紮在三號營，

while these guys were up there in the storm.

當這些登山客在暴風當中的時候。

The storm was so fierce that we had to lay,

因為風暴實在太強勁了，我們只能躺著

fully dressed, fully equipped,

完全備裝、全副武裝的，

laid out on the tent floor

躺在帳篷的地板上

to stop the tent from blowing off the mountain.

來防止帳篷被強風吹落山谷。

It was the worst winds I've ever seen.

那是我看過最糟糕的暴風。

And the climbers up on the ridge

然後那些登山客還在的山脊上

were that much higher, 2,000 feet higher,

還要高兩千英尺，

and completely exposed to the elements.

然後完全的暴露在外在的環境下。

We were in radio contact with some of them.

我們透過無線電連絡他們。

This is a view taken along the summit ridge.

這張照片是沿著山頂的山脊拍的一張。

Rob Hall, we heard by radio,

我們從無線電中聽到Rob Hall

was up here, at this point in the storm

就在上面，就在暴風之中

with Doug Hansen.

跟Doug Hansen在一起。

And we heard that Rob was OK,

然後我們聽到Rob沒什麼問題，

but Doug was too weak to come down.

但是Doug 實在太虛弱了而沒辦法爬下來。

He was exhausted, and Rob was staying with him.

他完全累斃了，然後Rob在那裡陪著他。

We also got some bad news in the storm

我們在暴風雪中也得到了其他壞消息

that Beck Weathers, another climber,

另一個登山客 Beck Weather，

had collapsed in the snow and was dead.

被崩下的雪壓住而且已經死了。

There were still 18 other climbers

還有其他十八個登山客

that we weren't aware of their condition.

我們是不清楚他們的狀況。

They were lost. There was total confusion on the mountain;

他們失蹤了。山上完全是一團混亂。

all the stories were confusing, most of them were conflicting.

所有傳來的消息都讓人困惑。大部份還互相衝突。

We really had no idea what was going on during that storm.

我們真的不知道到底在暴風雪時發生了甚麼事情。

We were just hunkered down

我們只能窩在

in our tents at Camp Three.

我們在第三營地的帳篷裡。

Our two strongest climbers, Todd Burleson and Pete Athans,

我們其中兩位最強壯的登山客，Todd Burleson 和 Pete Athans，

decided to go up to try to rescue who they could

決定上山去看看能不能援救到任何他們所能救到的人

even though there was a ferocious storm going.

即使暴風還在猛烈的吹著。

They tried to radio a message to Rob Hall,

他們是著透過無線電發送訊息給Rob Hall，

who was a superb climber

他是一個傑出的登山者

stuck, sort of, with a weak climber

有點像與一個虛弱的登山客卡住

up near the summit.

在接近山頂的地方。

I expected them to say to Rob,

我原本希望他們對Rob說，

"Hold on. We're coming."

『撐住，我們就來了。』

But in fact, what they said was,

但事實上他們卻說，

"Leave Doug and come down yourself.

『留下Doug！你自己下來！

There's no chance of saving him,

已經沒有機會能夠救他了，

and just try to save yourself at this point."

在這關頭只能試著救你自己！！』

And Rob got that message,

然後Rob 也收到了那個訊息，

but his answer was,

但是他的回答是，

"We're both listening."

我們都在聽...

Todd and Pete got up to the summit ridge, up in here,

Todd 和 Pete 衝上山頂脊，就在那上面，

and it was a scene of complete chaos up there.

然後發現的景象是一片混亂。

But they did what they could to stabilize the people.

但是他們做了所有他們能做的去穩定人們。

I gave them radio advice from Camp Three,

我從第三營地透過無線電給了他們一些意見，

and we sent down the climbers that could make it down

然後我們將能到達山下的登山者送下山

under their own power.

靠的是他們自己的力量。

The ones that couldn't we just sort of decided to leave up at Camp Four.

對於那些作不到的，我們就只是決定留在四號營地。

So the climbers were coming down along this route.

所以那些登山客都沿著這條路線下山。

This is taken from Camp Three, where I was.

這是我從三號營地拍的，也是我所在的地方。

And they all came by me

然後他們都是來找我的

so I could take a look at them and see what I could do for them,

所以我盡我所能的看看我能夠為他們做些什麼，

which is really not much, because Camp Three

但是我們能做的不多因為三號營地

is a little notch cut in the ice

不過是冰上面的一個小小V字型斜缺口

in the middle of a 45-degree angle.

駐紮在四十五度角的中間。

You can barely stand outside the tent.

在帳篷外面你很勉強才能站著。

It's really cold; it's 24,000 feet.

在兩萬四千英尺真的是非常的冷。