Only in Japan.

日本限定

(JOHN) Welcome to Tokyo!

(約翰) 歡迎來到東京

Or a quieter side of Tokyo.

或者說是一個東京裡面比較安靜的地方

This is Shibamata.

這裡是柴又

We're back in Tokyo for this episode

這集我們又回到東京

and it's all about food!

而這一整集都在討論美食

Shibamata is located just outside the city center

柴又正位於市中心外

along the Edogawa river.

沿著江戶川

This is the town area

這是個小城鎮

but we're going to be focussing on one street in particular.

但我們這集要特別專注在某一條街上

From the train station where I am now

從我現在所在的火車站出發

to Shibamata Taishakuten,

到柴又帝釋天

a buddhist temple founded in 1629.

一間創設於1629年的佛寺

This strip is loaded with street food!

這條狹長路徑充滿了街頭小吃

Now, I could've chosen other more popular neighborhoods

我也可以選擇其他鄰近更受歡迎的地區來介紹

like Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ginza or Ikebukuro,

像是澀谷、新宿、銀座或池袋

but I picked Shibamata because

但我選了柴又，因為

I live down the street.

我就住在這條街的盡頭

And joining me on this report is

參與我們這次的報導的

Angela An from the YouTube channel internationally ME

是經營youtube頻道 internationally ME的安琪拉安

(ANGELA) Hi John! (JOHN) How are you today?

(安琪拉) 嗨,John (約翰) 今天好嗎?

(ANGELA) I’m good. How are you? (JOHN) Very well.

(安琪拉)很好,你呢? (約翰) 我非常好

So what do you think of this neighborhood?

你對於這附近有看法?

(ANGELA) It’s really quiet and it has this traditional

(安琪拉)這裡非常安靜, 而且它具有日本的傳統

feel about Japan to it. Doesn’t it?

風味, 不是嗎?

(JOHN) Yeah! That’s the one thing I love about Shibamata.

(約翰) 沒錯, 這是我喜愛柴又這個地方的其中一個原因

The centre of Tokyo is always changing,

東京的市中心總是變幻無常

but here, things stay the same.

但在這裡, 一切都一如既往

(ANGELA) Yeah, it does. I can tell.

(安琪拉)是啊,沒錯, 我也這樣覺得

Let’s go!

那我們出發吧

(JOHN) Shibamata is a quiet town located 20 to 30 minutes away

(約翰) 柴又是一個位於東京市中心東北方、

from central Tokyo in the north east.

距離約20到30分鐘路程的寧靜小鎮

It's like taking a trip back 50 years to Japan's Showa period.

這裡就像是時光旅行回到五十年前的日本昭和時代一樣

Most shops are still mom & pop run businesses.

大部分的商店都還是父母那一輩的在經營

(JOHN) Wow! What an incredible street, isn’t it?

(約翰)哇! 很不可思議的街道,不是嗎?

(ANGELA) I know, right?

(安琪拉)是啊,沒錯

(JOHN) Hungry? (ANGELA) Really hungry!

(約翰) 餓了嗎? (安琪拉) 我很餓了

(JOHN) Let’s get some street food! (ANGELA) Let’s go!

(約翰)那我們吃些街頭小吃吧 (安琪拉) 我們走吧

(JOHN) Angela and I split up for a bit with Angela striking first.

(約翰)安琪拉和我先各自行動一會兒, 而安琪拉率先出擊

(ANGELA) Hello! (SHOPKEEPER) Hello!

(安琪拉) 哈囉 (店家老闆) 哈囉

(ANGELA) One Dora Ice Cream Sandwich, please. (SHOPKEEPER) Sure!

(安琪拉) 請給我一個冰淇淋銅鑼燒 (店家老闆) 好的

(JOHN) This is the “Aisu no Dora" or Dora Ice Cream Sandwich.

(約翰) 這是Aisu no Dora(日文), 也就是冰淇淋銅鑼燒

The shop makes the pankcake ends to the sandwich

這間店把鬆餅變成三明治

fresh throughout the day.

一整天都有新鮮剛出爐的

So what has Angela got?

所以安琪拉買了什麼

Two pancakes, red bean paste and green tea ice cream.

二片鬆餅、紅豆糊以及綠茶冰淇淋餡

It’s really just traditional dorayaki — with ice cream.

這是很傳統的銅鑼燒加上冰淇淋

So how does it taste?

味道如何?

(ANGELA) Mmm!

(安琪拉)嗯

It’s a really good combination

這是很棒的結合

with the red bean. It's really sweet

紅豆實在很甜

and then …

然後

the dorayaki

銅鑼燒

it tones down the sweetness so it’s really nice.

淡化了它的甜度,實在很不錯

And it’s great with the ice cream inside for a hot day.

而在在這個大熱天裡, 裡面還有冰淇淋實在很棒

(JOHN) Angela seems quite happy with her first choice.

(約翰)安琪拉對她第一個選擇似乎很開心

Sweets before the main course.

主餐前先來個甜點

I’ll follow suit at the same shop.

我要去同一家店如法炮製

Just a couple of coins gets me this.

只要幾個銅板就讓我買到這個

A fresh roll cake filled with delicious cream.

充滿了可口的奶油的蛋糕捲

It’s so soft!

它好軟

All it takes is one bite, and I'm off to cloud nine.

只要一口，我就像是把所有煩惱都拋到九霄雲外般快樂

Here’s the full sized roll cake at this shop.

這個是店裡完整大小的蛋糕捲

It really is beautiful.

實在是很美

The cake is only slightly buttery with a little powdered sugar

這個蛋糕只含有些微的奶油和糖粉

and toasted caramel on top.

以及烤焦糖覆蓋在上面

Look at that toasted caramel.

看看那烤焦糖

Delicious!

真是美味

Last bite.

最後一口

One of these may not be enough,

只吃這個可能不夠

but we’re only getting started.

但我們才剛開始而已

Here’s a local senbei, or rice cracker maker, across the street.

對面有一家製作仙貝（日文）或說是米製脆餅的在地店家

Angela approaches like a hungry lion on the hunt.

安琪拉就像是隻正在獵食的餓虎一樣靠近那家店

The owner makes each senbei fresh,

店家要讓每一片仙貝都是新鮮的

toasting them right at the store front.

就直接在店舖前碳烤

There’s a wide variety of flavors

仙貝有很多種口味

and the price is certainly not going to bankrupt you.

它的價錢絕對不會讓你破產

Senbei are coated with soy sauce for saltiness,

仙貝為了提高鹹度，外層塗了醬油

sometimes with an ingredient inside, like sesame.

有時候仙貝裡則摻入一些原料，像是芝麻

(ANGELA) I’ll take one of these, please.

（安琪拉）請給我一個這種仙貝

(JOHN) But Angela and her sweet tooth

（約翰）但安琪拉嗜吃甜食，

go straight for the one coated in sugar for ¥50.

所以直攻這種一片50日元、外層裏著糖的仙貝

(ANGELA) Wow! Look at this.

(安琪拉)哇! 看看這個

So it’s got shoyu base (it's a soy sauce base),

它用一層醬油打底

And it’s got sugar coated all over it.

然後再覆蓋上一層糖衣

(JOHN) Time for a big bite...

(約翰)要來大咬一口了

(ANGELA) Mmm!

(安琪拉)嗯

(JOHN) …and that never ending senbei crunch!

(約翰)再來就是嘎吱嘎吱嚼個不停

(ANGELA) It’s really crunchy, and…

(安琪拉)它實在很酥脆，而且

It’s not too sweet, even though it’s covered with sugar,

它不會太甜，即便它覆蓋著一層糖衣

because it’s got the shoyu undercoating.

因為它有一層醬油在裡面

It’s really good!

實在很好吃

(JOHN) Ah! But there's more. A lot more!

(約翰)啊！但還有別的口味，還有很多種

What’s the difference here?

吃起來有什麼不同？

You’ve got to try them all to find out.

你就必須自己一個個親自品嚐了

Here’s the normal soy sauce-coated senbei, hot from the grill.

這是一般的醬油仙貝，是熱騰騰的、剛從烤架上拿下來的

(ANGELA) Ooh!

（安琪拉）哦！

So, it’s harder than the last one … it’s a lot… um...

它比剛才那個硬，它很...嗯...

crunchier as well.

比剛才那個還脆

But it’s really nice because it’s hot … it’s warm.

但它真的很棒，因為它燙燙的、暖暖的

It tastes really fresh.

吃起來真的很新鮮

(JOHN) I was on my own search-and-destroy mission

（約翰）我在進行只有我一人的的搜索與殲滅任務（註：「搜索與殲滅」是一種越戰時廣泛運用的戰略）

with a much softer target locked on

但鎖定的是一個吃起來比較沒那麼硬的目標

This shop has a lot on sale, but I go for what’s right in the front.

這間店有很多正在折扣的商品，但我想買前面這個，它看起來才是正確的選擇

It says “miso dengaku“.

它寫著「味噌田樂燒」

Hmm. It’s on a stick. That’s a good sign.

嗯，它被竹籤插著，看起來是個好徵兆

They dip it in miso sauce and serve it in a cup

他們把它浸在味噌醬裡，然後放在杯子裡給客人

but what’s that on the stick?

但竹籤上的是什麼東西?

Well, it’s konnyaku!

嗯，是蒟蒻

Oh yeah!

哦耶

Rubbery, but …

吃起來有點橡皮的感覺，但

what saves it is the miso.

還好是有這個味噌

The miso is very sweet

這個味噌是很甜的

combined with the warm, rubbery consistency

和這種熱熱、橡皮口感的

of the konnyaku...

蒟蒻搭配起來

it goes together pretty good!

倒是絕配

Even for a carnivore like myself,

即便是像我這樣的食肉動物

I’m quite pleased with the vegetarian options here.

還是對這邊的素食選項相當滿意

What’s with the non-meat here?

為什麼這裡這麼多素食？

Maybe it’s because of it’s proximity to a famous Buddhist temple?

也許是因為它鄰近一間聲名遠播的佛寺的關係？

Meat-eaters, we'll be getting to you at the end.

肉食性動物們，影片的最後就會輪到你們了

On to the area’s speciality.

在尋找這個地區的特產時

There’s a place just down the street that makes it all fresh

這條街尾有那麼一個地方，可以讓你一整天

throughout the day.

都精力充沛

It’s kusadango!

那就是艾草糰子

Green, mugwort grass flavored, mochi balls.

綠色的、艾草口味的麻糬球

Look at this blob of still steaming mochi

你看看這個仍然在冒著蒸氣的的麻糬糰

straight from the kitchen.

才剛從廚房出爐的

Mochi is a glutinous sticky and chewy cake

麻糬是一種有粘性和嚼勁的蛋糕

made from pounded rice.

透過把米搗爛製成

The green color here comes from fresh mugwort.

這裡的綠色來自於新鮮的艾草

An aromatic plant called "yomogi" in Japanese.

是一種日文叫yomogi的香草植物

From kitchen to mouth in seconds.

從廚房出爐到顧客嘴巴裡的過程僅需幾秒鐘

The mochi blob is so hot that

麻糬糰很燙，所以

she has to cool it down with her hands in iced water.

所以她必須藉著讓將自己的手浸泡在冰水中，來幫助麻糬糰降溫

and the kusadango needs to be cooled off a little before serving

在搭配艾草糰子在交到顧客手上之前，必須先覆上

with a helping of sweet red bean paste.

甜甜的紅豆泥來幫助冷卻

The owner Yoshino-san has been making it this way for a long time.

店主Yoshino女士經營這家店已經很長一段時間了

to the delight of locals and tourist.

也受到當地居民和遊客的喜愛

Here’s a pack of 4 kusadango.

這是一盒四顆的艾草糰子

Or one for just ¥52!

也可以單買一個只要52日元

Perfect for that 1 to 2-bite happy ending street stroll.

它只有一兩口的份量，很適合拿來為這次的街頭漫步劃下快樂的句點

Sticky, but so good.

黏黏的，但很棒

The mugwort is a little bitter,

艾草有一點苦

but that sweet red bean counters

但甜甜的紅豆剛好能和其相抗衡

and makes for a perfect eating experience.

創造出一個完美的味覺體驗

But one bite is not enough.

但只吃一口不夠

I like my dango on a stick,

我喜歡糰子串在竹籤上

and Kameya across the street promises to fill us up.

而且對面的店家Kameya有機會可以把我們的肚子填得飽飽的

There are loads of different flavors of dango here

這裡有很多不同口味的糰子

but we’ll stick to the local speciality.

但我們仍堅持要吃當地的特產

Served on a stick!

糰子串在竹籤上供應客人

Four kusadando with the red bean (anko) paste

四個糰子的正面

caked on the front.

有凝結的紅豆泥

It’s a work of edible art, and it’s fun to eat.

它就是個可食用的藝術品，而且吃起來很有趣

This one has less mugwort, and it’s sweeter,

這個比剛才那家的艾草成分少，而且比較甜

but just as good.

但還是一樣好吃

The sweet soy sauce and seaweed strips is also one of my favorites here.

這種甜醬油和海苔絲的搭配也是這裡我最喜歡的口味之一

Kameya is owned by Iwasaki-san

Kameya是Iwasaki女士的店

who’s been working and living here for decades.

她已經在這裡工作及居住好幾十年

I asked her about Shibamata and the kusadango.

我問她有關柴又這地方以及艾草糰子的問題

(MRS. IWASKI) This store has been in business for nearly 90 years.

(IWASKI女士) 這家店已經經營了將近九十年了

Established in the early Showa era.

在昭和時代早期開張

(JOHN) 90 years! (ANGELA) Amazing!

（約翰）90年了！（安琪拉）太驚人了！

(MRS. IWASKI) Shibamata seems like a left out Tokyo,

(IWASKI女士)柴又就像是被遺忘的東京

but that makes it all the more interesting.

但也因此平添其趣味性

This place used to be where

這個地方過去遍地都

rice was grown all over.

種植稻米

Taishakuten was here from very long ago.

帝釋天在非常久以前就在那裡了

People wanted to give offerings to the temple.

人們想要以米製餡餅作為進獻廟方的供品

In rice patties, along the road

沿著道路

there was a lot of mugwort grass.

種植了很多艾草

There were weeds you can and cannot eat.

有的野草可以吃，有的不能吃

Mugwort is one you can eat.

艾草是可以吃的那種

So they harvested the mugwort,

所以他們會收割艾草

turned the rice into powder,

把米磨成粉

mix the mugwort,

再摻入艾草

and back then they added some soy powder

當時他們會添加一些大豆粉

and made the offering to Taishakuten.

然後將供品進獻給帝釋天

But gradually people started liking sweet things

但後來人們漸漸開始嗜吃甜食

it changed to sweet red bean paste.

就改成添加甜甜的紅豆泥

People who visited Taishakuten

來拜訪帝釋天的人

ate and loved kusadango,

吃了艾草糰子就愛上了

word spread, and that is why

一傳十，十傳百，這就是為什麼

Shibamata became famous for kusadango.

柴又以艾草糰子聞名的原因

(JOHN) I asked Iwasaki-san what has changed over time

（約翰）我問Iwasaki女士這些年來柴又有什麼變化

and the impact the Tora-san cinema series has had on the town.

以及Tora先生的續集電影對這個城鎮的影響

(MRS. IWASKI) Well, on the main street,

（IWASKI女士）嗯，在主要幹道上

all the electric poles have disappeared.

所有的電線桿都消失了

so, as you see, there are no poles,

所以如你所見，這裡沒有電線桿

all cables run underground,

電線都地下化了

and they widened the street a little.

而且他們還將街道拓寬了一些

Once the Tora-san movie started,

Tora先生的電影開始放映以後

many things changed.

許多事情都改變了

and so did the town’s landscape.

包括城鎮的景觀

when I came here after marriage,

我在婚後來到這裡

maybe around 50 years ago,

大概是五十年前

Back then, the Tora-san movie wasn’t famous,

在當時，Tora先生的電影還沒風行

no one really knew about Shibamata

沒什麼人真的了解柴又是個什麼的地方

When the Tora-san movie came,

當Tora先生的電影上映後

everyone knew about Shibamata.

每個人都認識柴又了

(JOHN) Shibamata was made famous by a series

(約翰)柴又是被1969年開始的續集

of movies starting in 1969

電影所捧紅的

with character Tora-san,

透過寅次郎這個迷人的角色

charming people into his familiar world,

進入他所熟悉的世界

which was right here, in Shibamata!

那個地方就在這裡，柴又

Tora-san had 48 movies released and

寅次郎共有四十八部相關電影上映，

holds the Guinness World Record

保有「由單一演員領銜主演的最長系列電影」

for the longest-running movie series

的金氏世界紀錄

starring a single actor.

And you’ll find Tora-san goods and tributes everywhere.

而且你到處都可以看到和寅次郎有關的商品與對他的讚頌

Shibamata has a lot of other attractions.

柴又還有很多其他的景點

There’s an old nostalgic toy shop

有一個懷舊的玩具店

that sells some pretty unique snacks and gifts.

販賣著一些十分獨特的點心和禮物

Taishakuten is a must-see stop at the end of the street.

帝釋天是在街道盡頭的一個必訪點

Shibamata is also right on the beautiful Edogawa

柴又位於美麗的江戶川右岸

where you can sit and gaze over the greenery.

你可以坐在河岸邊，凝視著盎然綠意

The old ferry boat still shuttles people

古老的渡船仍然為人們擺渡，

across, like it did generations ago,

就像前幾個世代一樣，未曾改變，

for just a couple hundred yen.

只要二百日元

Weekend Festival Dance Practice

為週末節慶的舞蹈表演練習

On the way back to the station,

在回車站的路上

Angela and I have stopped in for one final snack.

安琪拉和我為了最後一道點心停了下來

It’s yakitori!

這是烤雞肉串燒

-- and motsunabe.

和內臟鍋

made from pork and beef tripe.

由豬和牛的內臟烹煮而成

Some of the best in Tokyo

是東京最好吃的食物之一

it always tastes better in local areas.

地方上的總是比較好吃

(JOHN) What a day! (ANGELA) What a day it has been!

(約翰)多麼棒的一天啊 (安琪拉) 今天過得真棒!

(JOHN) I know! We’ve seen so much, and we’ve eaten so much!

(約翰) 我當然知道，我們看了這麼多，也吃了這麼多

(ANGELA) Yeah! I've eaten so much my stomach

（安琪拉）是啊，我們吃了這麼多，我的肚子

is so full right now.

現在好飽啊

(JOHN) But wait! We have one more meal. (ANGELA) One more.

（約翰）但是等等，我們還有一餐，（安琪拉）還有一餐

(JOHN) This is yakitori.

（約翰）這是烤肉串

This place has 12 meat items to char-grill.

這裡有十二種肉品可以拿來炭火燒烤

Unagi is my favorite, but costs the most.

鰻魚是我的最愛，但也最貴

Negima is a classic that almost everyone loves.

雞肉則是幾乎是每個人都愛的經典款

It’s grilled when ordered so — try a few!

它是點單完才現烤的，所以值得吃一點看看！

… and this is motsunabe.

而這個是內臟鍋

(ANGELA) Yum! What’s inside there?

（安琪拉）好吃，那裡面是什麼？

(JOHN) Um …

（約翰）嗯．．．

The insides of the cow and pig …

牛和豬的內臟

(ANGELA) Sounds delicious.

（安琪拉）聽起來很美味

(JOHN) Motsunabe — I really love motsunabe

（約翰）內臟鍋，我真的很愛內臟鍋

especially at a place like this,

特別是在一個類似這樣的地方

out in the countryside, because you know it’s fresh.

在鄉村的戶外，因為你知道它會是新鮮的

(ANGELA) Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.

（安琪拉）是啊，是啊

(JOHN) So what did you think of Shibamata?