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  • Dear DS friends, in this film, made by the DS-Technical Team club

  • I will explain how simple the toe-in of your DS can be adjusted.

  • Now I will show you, together with an aide, .

  • how to apply the special tool, to adjust the track

  • Look

  • Now I hold the pole against the rim

  • Now you can see the purpose of the screws

  • The heads of the screws should touch the inside rim of the wheel

  • Now you also see the reason for 38,5 cm between the screws

  • The heads of both bolts fit exactly between the diameter of the wheel

  • Put the bolts firmly against the wheel

  • and see that the pole is in a straight position.

  • Now I will ask my assistant Kees to put a mark on the floor

  • accurately indicating the screw on the top of the pole

  • Thank you!

  • We will do the same again with the pole pointing backwards

  • Kees will you please go to the other side?

  • In the same way we hold the pole in position

  • but this time pointing backwards

  • Yes! OK Kees, will you again put a mark?

  • Now we repeat the operation at the other side of the car

  • Here we do it do it again to start with the front

  • Yes it all right now, please Kees, put a mark

  • And now to the back

  • Yes, it's correct!

  • Ok, now we have four marks

  • indicating the position of the front wheels

  • Now we can measure the track of the car

  • Once more, we used a pole with a length of 220 centimetre,

  • two wood screws or nails are attached,

  • on a distance of 38.5 cm apart

  • now we have four marks on the floor

  • indicating the position of the front wheels

  • Kees, now we are starting the measurement

  • Will you please put the end of the tapeline on the hart of the mark

  • we are reading a distance of 176 cm

  • please remember!

  • Now we do the same at the rear

  • I will slide the tapeline to your side

  • Got it!

  • Please put the end on the hart of the mark

  • OK, splendid! Here it is 178 cm

  • You can release it now

  • We measured 176 cm at the front end

  • and 178 cm at the back,

  • the difference is 2 cm, divided by 10 gives us the toe-in

  • so the toe-in appears to be 2 mm.

  • the toe-in of a DS should be between the 2 and the 4 mm

  • Of course I knew this already

  • My car is perfectly on specs

  • This DS, like many DS cars are of age

  • some have oscillating wheels

  • this could have disturbed our measurements

  • To check this, we shift the car

  • for half a revolution of a wheel.

  • Then we repeat our measurements

  • And we middle the results

  • We put a mark at the present position of a wheel

  • Then we shift the car for half a revolution

  • It's easier with some help

  • Kees will you tell me when the mark is at the top?

  • Stop!

  • Now we have transferred the car by one half revolution of a wheel.

  • Time to start the measurements again

  • OK, once again

  • It's in position, put a mark

  • Yes! To the back

  • Yes, OK, to the other side

  • Front side first

  • Yes, correct

  • To the back

  • OK, now the measurement

  • Front first?

  • 1.77 m

  • 1.76 m

  • There must be a small error

  • At the front we have now 1.77 and

  • at the back 1.76

  • This indicates a considerable swing in the wheels

  • Because we see now a toe-out of 1 mm

  • At first we saw a toe-in of 2 mm

  • so the average of these two measurements show an incorrect track

  • of half a mm toe-in,

  • it should be 2 to 4 mm toe-in

  • so, now we have to increase the toe-in by 2 mm

  • the front wheels should be pointing more inwards

  • OK, let's do so

  • Open the hood

  • Now we have to explain what we should adjust

  • At this side of the car we see the tierod

  • And the adjusting collar

  • the adjusting collar can be rotated on order to change the track

  • the adjusting collar can be rotated on order to change the track

  • So I have to rotate in such a way that the toe-in increases

  • This is the collar to adjust the track

  • The collar has a right hand thread at one side

  • and a left hand thread at the other side

  • So turning in one direction gives more length

  • and the other way it gets shorter

  • so this should be turned

  • the first step is to loosen the retaining nuts a bit

  • so that the collar gets loose

  • We should find out what direction it should be turned

  • I found out that topside to the front means more toe-in

  • And of course the topside to the back means more toe-out

  • And also: one full turn equals 6 mm change, or 6 cm "on the floor"

  • We just measured on average half a cm toe-in

  • And we want something between 2 and 4 m

  • So I want to increase the toe-in by 2.5 cm

  • Which means turning the collar to the front

  • by just less than half a revolution

  • This is what we are going to do

  • Ok, let's loosening the two retaining nuts a bit

  • and now I turn it just less than half a turn to the front

  • sometimes the collar is very hard to turn

  • for instance by being damaged by pliers or by rust

  • you can see a slot in the collar

  • With a screwdriver you could widen the slot a bit

  • As you can see, with this car it can be turned by hand

  • Now it is in the required position

  • Now we repeat the entire measurement in two wheel positions

  • Before doing so, first I will drive the car a bit

  • So the parts can settle in the new position.

  • driving backwards and forwards

  • then we repeat the entire measurement

  • in two wheel positions as we did before

  • In case it is all correct than we tighten the nuts

  • If not we have to repeat the whole operation until all is set

  • Thank you for watching this film, made by DS Technical Team

  • The goal of DS Technical Team is

  • to help DS owners with the technical matters of their cars

  • We are doing this by creating films like this

  • and providing technical numerous courses and demonstrations

  • And you can ask technical questions directly through info@DS-TT.nl

  • Thank you

Dear DS friends, in this film, made by the DS-Technical Team club

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