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  • We're at rocky neck State Park on a very cold morning to talk about how to photograph flying birds

  • Chelsea tell them about shutter speed the first thing you want to think about is your shutter speed you can start at about 1

  • Mm, and I like to either have my settings on shutter priority

  • so I can quickly switch shutter speeds or

  • Manual mode with auto ISO for the same reason because I know we're talking about shooting flying birds

  • But sometimes they perch and that can make a good shot too, so you'll start at 1 mm of a second

  • And that's usually good for any smooth flying bird not doing too much crazy movement once you get into a bird

  • That's smaller and diving like a Kingfisher

  • You might want to bump it up

  • You might also find that if you have a really high resolution camera it

  • Introduces more camera shake or motion blur so you might have to bump up the shutter speed for that too

  • But a little bit of trial and error goes a long way

  • Zoom in 1 to 1 to see if there's any kind of shake or blur and then if there is just up your shutter speed

  • a bit

  • a

  • Good feature to know how to use is exposure compensation you always want your subject to be the thing that is exposed

  • Properly, so if you have a very bright white bird

  • Let's say an Egret you want to put your exposure compensation

  • Down so that you're not blowing out the highlights and the feathers if your shootings

  • Said that the animal is backlit or the sky is very bright

  • You can also put your exposure compensation up so that your camera isn't exposing for the bright background instead of your subject you can

  • Experiment by taking pictures first and then exposing it up and down and see what works for you

  • You might want to take a moment while you're shooting to check your histogram make sure you're not clipping any highlights on your subject

  • Don't you decide to poop I

  • Find that the lighting on your subject can make or break your picture

  • I typically try to shoot with my back to the Sun so that my subject is lit up

  • But that doesn't always work out birds typically take off into the wind

  • And the Sun can be in a different direction

  • So you can't always have it perfect another thing is overcast days can kind of make your subject look soft

  • But I tend to just go out and shoot anyway. You never know what you're gonna get if you can choose perfect conditions

  • I love the golden hour, and I like to have to bat my back to the Sun

  • Right now. There's some really beautiful soft light on this Hawk, and he's looking right into it

  • And so we're getting some really nice pictures where his eyes are nice lately

  • when I shoot I tend to shoot raw plus JPEG and when I say that I mean I shoot raw to my faster card and

  • JPEG to my slower card raw is easier to bring out the details when you're editing and post

  • JPEG is a little more cemented, but there's still

  • You still have some ability to edit your picture or bring up the shadows bring down the highlights just not as drastically

  • I don't tend to have buffering camp problems with my camera

  • but I might run into that issue if

  • I'm getting really fast action like a bird diving for a fish if that's a problem for you

  • If you feel like you're missing shots because you're filling your buffer

  • Then you might want to consider switching to JPEG that will allow you to get more shots before your buffer is full

  • But like I said you might not be able to recover those shadows or highlights as easily

  • So you kind of have to decide for yourself?

  • Which works best for you?

  • Are you missing that crucial shot because your buffer is filling you can consider JPEG if it's just fine like me

  • shoot raw or raw plus JPEG

  • For my eye, so I'm pretty much always in auto ISO

  • And I know you're gonna get a lot of people saying they like to meter the scene once and then just use manual ISO

  • But I just haven't found that that works for me. I find that especially with flying birds

  • They might fly from full Sun into the shade and then your exposure will change drastically

  • And I know maybe you're super smart and super fast and you can do that while the bird is flying but for me

  • I'd rather let the camera do it because it can do it multiple times per second other things cannot change your

  • overall exposure that require me to use auto ISO like the Sun moving behind the cloud can change the

  • exposure by two four stops even on an overcast day where the lighting seems even

  • The Sun will move from patches of really thick clouds to thin clouds

  • And you might see the exposure changed by a full stop even on a clear day over the course of 15 minutes

  • The sun's usual path will change the exposure by maybe a third of a stop so for me

  • I've used an auto exposure all the time

  • Focusing is super important

  • All your settings don't matter at all if the bird is out of focus

  • so of course for a flying burger and continuous focusing mode for a bird that's flying against a

  • Cluttered background like they're flying against the background of the trees or the water

  • I use a single autofocus point and I do my very best to keep it on the bird

  • Now on the Nikon d5 and the nikon d 500 I find the 3d tracking

  • Works well enough that i'll use it to

  • attract the bird isn't moves across the frame on the da 50 and pretty much every other camera in the world I end up just

  • using a single

  • fixed

  • Autofocus point it is really hard to keep that focusing point on a bird with a big telephoto lens though especially when it's handheld it

  • Just takes practice now if the bird is against a clear sky

  • That's great news because I can just use all the autofocus points and that way as the Verdon meanders through the frame the camera is

  • Gonna track it and keep it in focus

  • I am a back button focused person we have a video on that if you aren't familiar

  • now some of the latest cameras like the Canon five years are the Canon 5d Mark for the D 500 D 5 D 850 and

  • the Sony 89 and the Sony a7r 3 they

  • Allow you to buttons that you can use for back button focus and I program one of them to do a single

  • Autofocus point and the other one to do all auto focus points that way if I'm tracking a flying bird

  • And it goes from a crowded background

  • Or I want the single autofocus point I'll hit the AF on button that does

  • Single autofocus point if it moves into the clear sky

  • I can make my life easier by hitting the other autofocus button and tracking all the autofocus points check our

  • Tutorials for detailed information on how to configure back button focus for your camera if this video helped you out you can subscribe down below

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  • You can also learn more about wildlife photography by checking out our book stunning digital photography specifically chapter 8

  • It's $9.99 for the e-book, and it comes with 14 hours of video. Thanks so much

  • Unbelievable

  • Tony

  • Tony I

  • Heard that the D 850 has 4k video. Did you read about that?

  • Would you recommend people buy that one

  • Tony do your puns make you think I'm low real birch

  • Son of a birch

  • Are you leaving me because of the pun are you leaving because of the puns bye

We're at rocky neck State Park on a very cold morning to talk about how to photograph flying birds

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