for a whopping $1.8 million.

以180萬美元的高價。

But you can buy a can of tuna fish

但你可以買到一罐金槍魚。

at the grocery store for under $2.

在雜貨店買不到2美元。

So, what's the difference?

那麼，有什麼區別呢？

For starters, it's not the same fish.

首先，這不是同一條魚。

Canned tuna typically comes from albacore.

金槍魚罐頭一般來自長鰭魚。

They're small, grow fast, and are abundant for fishing.

它們個頭小，長得快，而且數量多，適合釣魚。

And they certainly don't weigh 489 pounds.

而且他們的體重肯定不會達到489斤。

There's only one type of tuna in the world

世界上只有一種金槍魚。

that grows that big, bluefin tuna.

長著那麼大的藍鰭金槍魚。

And if you wanna try some, it's gonna cost you.

如果你想嚐嚐，那就得花錢了

Derek Wilcox: We could buy tuna from Japan

Derek Wilcox:我們可以從日本買金槍魚

that we'd have to charge

我們將不得不收取

maybe $80 for one piece of otoro.

也許80美元的一塊OTORO。

Narrator: Derek Wilcox is a chef at Shoji,

Derek Wilcox是Shoji的主廚。

a Japanese restaurant in New York.

紐約的一家日本餐廳。

He was trained in Japan and worked there

他曾在日本受訓並在那裡工作

for more than 10 years.

10多年來，。

Restaurants like Shoji serve raw bluefin tuna,

莊司等餐廳提供生藍鰭金槍魚。

or what's called kuro maguro in Japanese.

也就是日語中所說的 "kuro maguro"。

They get their tuna from a number of different sources,

他們的金槍魚來自許多不同的來源。

including Japan's Tsukiji fish market.

包括日本的築地魚市。

There are several different varieties of tuna,

金槍魚有幾個不同的品種。

but bluefin is what you're most likely to find

但藍鰭魚是你最有可能找到的。

at high-end sushi restaurants.

在高端壽司店。

Wilcox: Bluefin is the most sought after.

威爾科克斯。藍鰭魚是最搶手的。

Only bluefin has the intense marbling.

只有藍鰭魚有強烈的大理石紋。

Bluefin also, when it's aged properly,

藍鰭也是，當它的年齡適當。

has a particular balance of flavors.

有一種特別的平衡味道。

Narrator: A large adult bluefin can weigh

旁白：一條大的成年藍鰭魚可以重

around 450 pounds or more,

約450磅以上。

and the price of the fish varies based

而魚的價格則根據

on a number of different factors.

在一些不同的因素上。

Wilcox: It completely depends upon where you get it from,

Wilcox:這完全取決於你從哪裡得到它。

but it's never cheap.

但它從不便宜。

A local bluefin on the east coast will run

東海岸當地的一條藍鰭魚會跑到這裡來

anywhere between $20 and $40 a pound.

每磅20到40美元不等。

You could be paying north of $200 a pound

你可能會付出200美元一磅的價格。

for bluefin from Japan.

日本的藍鰭魚。

Narrator: According to Wilcox, tuna from Japan

旁白：據威爾科克斯說，日本的金槍魚...

is better than American tuna during

是比美國金槍魚更好的期間

the peak winter months.

冬季高峰期。

While Boston tuna is best during summer and fall.

而波士頓金槍魚則以夏秋兩季為最佳。

But it's the tuna that comes from Oma in Japan

但這是來自日本大間的金槍魚。

that's widely considered to be

被公認為

some of the best in the world.

世界上最好的一些。

Wilcox: Peak-season Oma tuna will, in Japan, cost

Wilcox:旺季的大馬金槍魚在日本的價格將是

400-450 a kilo.

每公斤400-450元。

Which means by the time it gets here,

也就是說，等它到了這裡。

it'll cost close to $400 a pound.

它將花費接近400美元一磅。

Narrator: Besides its superior fat content,

旁白：除了脂肪含量高之外

another reason fish is more expensive from Japan

日本魚貴的另一個原因

is that it has further to travel,

是它還有更遠的路要走。

and it goes through a rather lengthy process

而這是一個相當漫長的過程

before making its way to your plate.

在進入你的盤子之前。

Wilcox: There's more hands that it passes through

Wilcox:有更多的手，它通過

in Japan, which is not necessarily a bad thing.

在日本，這未必是一件壞事。

Narrator: Wilcox says the fish is also handled

旁白：威爾科克斯說魚也是經過處理的

better in Japan than the US.

在日本比美國好。

So there's less damage and more precise cutting.

所以損傷更小，切割更精確。

Wilcox: We get like a Boston bluefin,

Wilcox:我們得到像波士頓藍鰭。

it goes from the fisherman, to the distributor, to our door.

它從漁民，經銷商，到我們的門。

Whereas in Japan, it's going from the fisherman,

而在日本，則是從漁民那裡下手。

usually to a collective or cooperative,

通常是對集體或合作社；

to the government that's running the auction,

到政府的運作拍賣。

to a middle wholesaler, to a final wholesaler,

到中間批發商，到最終批發商。

to a restaurant or a hotel.

到餐廳或酒店。

All high-end fish are auctioned in Japan.

所有高端魚都在日本拍賣。

Fish that's more sought after, that's caught

比較搶手的魚，那是釣到的。

in a better place, that's handled better,

在一個更好的地方，那就是處理得更好。

that's clearly better quality will go for a higher price,

這顯然是更好的品質會去一個更高的價格。

and that fisherman will get more of the money.

而那個漁民會得到更多的錢。

Narrator: The first auction of the year in Japan

旁白：日本今年的第一場拍賣會

is when you'll see ridiculously high prices for fish.

就是你會看到高得離譜的魚價。

Mostly as a symbolic gesture, or a publicity stunt.

主要是作為一種象徵性的姿態，或者是一種宣傳的噱頭。

Which is partly why the 489-pound tuna sold

這也是為什麼489磅重的金槍魚被賣掉的部分原因。

for $1.8 million in 2013.

2013年為180萬美元。

And the first fish of 2018 sold for $323,000.

而2018年的第一條魚以32.3萬元成交。

Wilcox: In Japanese culture,

威爾科克斯。在日本文化中

that first thing you do all year

一年四季的第一件事

is the most important.

是最重要的。

It sets the tone for the whole year.

它為全年的工作定下了基調。

That first tuna of the year always goes for

這一年的第一條金槍魚總是去了

the highest price that any tuna will

任何金槍魚的最高價格

go for the whole rest of the year.

去的全年。

Narrator: And the different parts of a bluefin tuna

旁白：還有藍鰭金槍魚的不同部分

also vary drastically in price.

在價格上也有很大的不同。

Wilcox: If you imagine a tuna as like a torpedo,

Wilcox:If you imagine a tuna as like a torpedo. 如果你把金槍魚想象成魚雷的話

they'll split it into quarters lengthwise,

他們會把它抽成四分之一的長度。

cut off the head, and the collar,

割下頭顱，和衣領。

and we will take one of the two belly quarters.

而我們將採取兩個腹部的季度之一。

Narrator: Here's what one quarter looks like

旁白：這就是一季度的情況

when it's delivered.

當它的交付。

This piece came from Boston,

這塊來自波士頓。

and was caught the previous day.

並在前一天被抓。

Wilcox splits up the meat based on type.

威爾科克斯根據類型來分肉。

Wilcox: It's just like sides of beef.

Wilcox就像牛肉的邊角料一樣

You know, you buy a side of beef, it's all the same,

你知道，你買了一副牛肉，都是一樣的。

but once you break it down,

但一旦你把它分解。

the filet ends up being the most expensive part,

魚排最終是最昂貴的部分。

because it's the most desirable.

因為它是最理想的。

It's also small,

它的體積也很小。

and it requires a lot of labor to peel

剝皮要花很多功夫

off the silver skin.

脫銀皮。

Otoro is the fattiest part of the tuna

金槍魚最肥美的部分是大五郎。

outside of the head and collar area.

頭部和衣領區外。

Narrator: This is the most expensive.

旁白：這是最貴的

And depending on where it's from,

而且要看是哪裡來的。

and where the fish was raised,

以及養魚的地方。

the price can vary anywhere from $10 a piece

價格從10元一個不等

to upwards of $80.

到80美元以上。

Wilcox: The chutoro is getting around toward

威爾科克斯。The chutoro is getting around towards

the side of the tuna,

金槍魚的側面。

and it doesn't have the striations of fat,

而且它沒有脂肪的紋路。

but it still has fat within the red of the meat,

但它的肉紅內仍有脂肪。

so you get a mix of fat and red.

所以你會得到一個混合的脂肪和紅色。

And then, akami which means, literally,

然後，akami的意思是，字面意思。

red meat in Japanese,

日文中的紅肉。

is the leanest part which you find more towards the center

是最傾斜的部分，你會發現更多的朝向中央

of the tuna closer to the backbone.

的金槍魚靠近骨幹。

Narrator: Akami is the most common

旁白：明美是最常見的

and cheapest part of the fish,

也是最便宜的魚的部分。

but it's still more expensive than

但它仍然比

that can of albacore at your local market.

那罐長鰭魚在你當地的市場。

Wilcox: When you're assessing the quality of the tuna,

Wilcox:當你在評估金槍魚的品質時 When you're assessing the quality of the tuna,

you wanna taste the red meat, the akami.

你想嚐嚐紅色的肉，神仙。

It's a wild animal, so it tells you whether

它是一種野生動物，所以它告訴你是不是

it had a good diet,

它有一個良好的飲食。

whether it had a good life,

是否有一個好的生活。

and it got exercise, and it lived in clean waters,

它得到了鍛鍊，它生活在乾淨的水中。

and was able to swim around a lot.

並能遊刃有餘。

So, a farm-raised tuna is, generally, force-fed sardines,

所以，養殖的金槍魚，一般都是強行餵養沙丁魚。

and you can actually taste sardines

你可以真正品嚐沙丁魚

in the fat of a farm-raised tuna.

在養殖的金槍魚的脂肪。

Whereas a wild tuna has a varied diet,

而野生金槍魚的食物卻很多樣。

and has a much cleaner and milder flavor to the fat.

並且對脂肪有更乾淨溫和的味道。

Narrator: But for decades, wild bluefin tuna

但幾十年來，野生藍鰭金槍魚但幾十年來，野生藍鰭金槍魚...

were over-fished in the Pacific,

在太平洋地區被過度捕撈。

which was harming their population

損害其人口的行為

and making it more difficult to come by.

並使其更難獲得。

However, more recently tighter controls on fishing

然而，最近對捕魚的管制更加嚴格。

have led to a resurgence in the population.

導致了人口的復甦。

But they could still be better, Wilcox says.

但他們仍然可以更好，Wilcox說。

In fact, Wilcox avoids any Pacific bluefin

事實上，Wilcox避免任何太平洋藍鰭魚

that is not from Japan,

不是來自日本的。

and says you should too.

並說你也應該。

Wilcox: If you eat Pacific bluefin,

Wilcox:如果你吃太平洋藍鰭魚。

not specifically from Japan,

並非專門來自日本。

then that's really irresponsible.

那就真的是不負責任了。