that I discovered after 35 years of rock climbing.

是我從 35 年的攀岩經驗中所發掘出來的。

Most of them are pretty basic.

它們大多很基本。

Number one: don't let go --

第一條：絕不放棄 —

very sure success method.

這是非常可靠的成功法則。

But really, truly -- often you think about

但是事實上，的確 — 早在你的身體放棄前，

letting go way before your body does.

你已時常想著要放棄了。

So hang in there,

所以堅持下去，

and you come up with some pretty peculiar solutions.

然後你會想到某些十分獨特的解決方案。

Number two: hesitation is bad.

第二條：遲疑是不好的。

This is a friction climb, up in Tuolumne Meadows,

這是一個往泰倫恩草地的徒手自由攀登地點，

in the Yosemite high country.

位於優勝美地高地。

Friction climbing doesn't have any sort of hard positive edges.

自由攀登沒有任何明確的支撐施力的地方。

You're climbing on little dimples and nubbins in the rock.

你攀爬在岩石上的小凹凸處。

The most friction you have is when you first put your hand

你能得到最大支撐的時候就是當你將你的手或腳

or your foot on the rock.

放上岩石的那一刻。

And then from that point on, you're basically falling.

然後從那一刻開始，基本上你已經開始在下滑了。

So momentum is good. Don't stop.

所以保持慣性動量是好的。別停！

Rule number three: have a plan.

第三條：預先計畫。

This is a climb called the Naked Edge,

這是在科羅拉多州波爾德市外

in El Dorado Canyon, outside of Boulder.

黃金峽谷中一個叫做裸稜的攀岩地點。

This climber is on the last pitch of it.

這個攀岩者只剩最後一步就登頂了。

He's actually right about where I fell.

其實我就是在跟他差不多的地方失敗的。

There is about 1,000 feet of air below him.

在他下面等著他的是千呎深的懸崖。

And all the hard pitches are actually below him.

但其實他早已經通過了那些困難的關卡。

Often what happens is

常常會發生的狀況是

you're planning so hard for like,

你非常認真地盤算計畫著，像是

"How do I get through the hardest part? How do I get through the hardest part?"

「我要如何通過最難的關卡？我要如何通過最難的關卡？」

And then what happens?

然後發生了什麼事？

You get to the last pitch. It's easy.

眼看你已經要成功了。一切是如此輕而易舉。

And you're completely flamed out. Don't do it.

而你卻也早已筋疲力竭了。別這樣做。

You have to plan ahead to get to the top.

你必須預先計畫如何登頂。

But you also can't forget that each individual move

但是你也不能忘記你必須留有餘力

you have to be able to complete.

來完成你計畫中的每一個步驟。

This is a climb called the Dike Route,

這個攀岩地點叫做堤道。

on Pywjack Dome, up in the Yosemite high country.

就在沛瑞特穹頂 ，位於優勝美地高地上。

The interesting thing about this climb is it's not that hard.

關於這次攀爬有趣的地方是，它並不太難。

But if you're the leader on it,

但是如果你是此次攀岩的領隊，

at the hardest move, you're looking at about 100 foot fall,

在最困難的地方，要有墜落 100 呎至

onto some low angle slabs.

某些平緩岩台上的心理準備。

So you've got to focus.

所以你必須要專心。

You don't want to stop in the middle like

你不會希望像柯勒律治（英國詩人）筆下的忽必烈可汗

Coleridge's Kubla Kahn.

一般被困在半途中。

You've got to keep going.

你必須一直向前走。

Rule number five: know how to rest.

第五條：知道如何休息。

It's amazing. The best climbers

驚人的是。最佳的攀岩者

are the ones that in the most extreme situations

通常是那些在最險峻的狀況下

can get their bodies into some position

還能使他們的身體保持某些姿態讓自己能夠

where they can rest,

好好休息的人。

regroup, calm themselves, focus,

待他們重整、冷靜，重拾專注力後，

and keep going.

再繼續向前。

This is a climb in the Needles, again in California.

這還是在加州，一個叫做尼得市的地方。

Fear really sucks because what it means is

恐懼真的很糟因為那意味著

you're not focusing on what you're doing.

你沒有專心在你正在做的事上。

You're focusing on the consequences of

你的注意力都放在如果你

failing at what you're doing

失敗以後的後果。

because any given move should require

但是任何一個動作都需要

all your concentration and thought processes

你百分之百的專注及思考

to execute it effectively.

才能夠正確有效地執行。

One of the things in climbing is, most people

大多數人在攀岩的時候

sort of take it straight on. And they follow the most obvious solution.

都是直來直往的。而且他們會採取最簡單的方法。

This is the Devils Tower in Wyoming,

這在懷俄明州的魔鬼塔，

which is a columnar basalt formation

它是柱狀玄武岩地形

that most of you probably know from "Close Encounters."

大多數的你們可能在電影「第三類接觸」中看過它。

With this, typically crack climbers

當岩縫攀爬者遇到它的典型反應

would put their hands in and their toes in

就是將手和腳趾插入岩石縫隙中，

and just start climbing.

直接開始攀爬。

The cracks are too small to get your toes into

某些縫細小到你甚至不能將你的腳趾差入其間

so the only way to climb is using your fingertips

所以當你遇到這種縫隙，你只能利用你的指尖

in the cracks,

來攀爬。

and using opposing pressure

並使用反作用力

and forcing yourself up.

來推使你向上。

Rule number eight: strength doesn't always equal success.

第八條：力量不一定等於成功。

In the 35 years I've been a climbing guide

35 年來我一直擔任攀岩嚮導

and taught on indoor walls, and stuff like that,

在室內岩場教學，並做些像這樣的工作，

the most important thing I've learned

而我所學到的最重要的事情

was, guys will always try to do pull-ups.

就是，男性們通常會做引體向上。

Beginning guys, it's like, they thrash, they thrash,

初學的男士們，他們會一股腦地，猛力向上爬，

they get 15 feet up --

離地 15 呎後。

and they can do about 15 pull-ups right --

通常他們能做 15 下引體向上，對吧？

And then they just flame out.

他們就體力透支了。

Women are much more in balance

女士們則平衡得多

because they don't have that idea

因為她們並不覺得

that they're going to be able to do 100 pull-ups.

她們可以做 100 下引體向上。

They think about how to get the weight over their feet

她們想著如何能讓重量傳遞到腳上支撐

because it's sort of natural -- they carry you all day long.

這是很自然的想法。你的腿整天背負著你的重量。

So balance is really critical,

所以平衡是很重要的關鍵，

and keeping your weight on your feet,

並用雙腿來支撐你的體重，

which is your strongest muscle.

因為你全身最強壯的肌肉就在這。

And of course there is rule number nine.

當然，最後是第九條。

I came up with rule number nine after

我之所以將第九條加入是因為

I actually didn't plan for a fall,

我曾經沒有做好失手摔落時的計畫，

and went about 40 feet and cracked a rib.

因此跌落了 40 呎並且摔斷了一根肋骨。

Once you get to that point where you know it's going to happen,

當你知道跌落是不可避免的時候，

you need to start thinking about how you're going to let go

你必須開始思考你要如何放手

because that is the critical piece

因為這是讓你避免受傷的關鍵 —

of not getting hurt --

因為這是讓你避免受傷的關鍵 —

how you're going to fall onto the rope,

你如何跌下後靠安全索支撐，

or if you're climbing without a rope,

或是你沒有使用安全索攀爬，

fall to a place where you can actually control the fall.

那麼就跌落在你可以停止繼續下跌的地方。

So don't hang on till the bitter end.

所以不要一直硬撐到最糟的狀況發生。

Thank you very much.

非常謝謝你們。

(Applause)

（掌聲）