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  • So I'm going to tell you a little bit

    我想和各位談談

  • about reimagining food.

    有關食物的新思維

  • I've been interested in food for a long time.

    我對食物感興趣有很長一段時間了

  • I taught myself to cook

    我用了一大批這樣厚的書

  • with a bunch of big books like this.

    來自學烹飪

  • I went to chef school in France.

    我到法國的烹飪學校進修

  • And there is a way

    但是世界對於事物的認知

  • the world both envisions food,

    對食物的描寫方式以及對於食物的研究方式

  • the way the world writes about food and learns about food.

    都有一個既定的概念

  • And it's largely what you would find in these books.

    然後大家這些書上看到的都基本上是這樣的

  • And it's a wonderful thing.

    這些都很好

  • But there's some things that have been going on

    但是在這些概念被定義之後

  • since this idea of food was established.

    有些事情變得不一樣了

  • In the last 20 years,

    過去二十年裡

  • people have realized that science

    人們意識到科學

  • has a tremendous amount to do with food.

    對食物有著很深的影響

  • In fact, understanding why cooking works

    實際上要了解烹飪的機理

  • requires knowing the science of cooking --

    必須要知道烹飪的科學

  • some of the chemistry, some of the physics and so forth.

    需要化學,物理等等的知識

  • But that's not in any of those books.

    但是這些並沒有出現在任何一本書裡

  • There's also a tremendous number of techniques

    很多大廚研發出了

  • that chefs have developed,

    眾多的烹飪技巧

  • some about new aesthetics, new approaches to food.

    包括關於食物的新美學,新的烹調食物的方法

  • There's a chef in Spain named Ferran Adria.

    有位西班牙的廚師Ferran Adria

  • He's developed a very avant-garde cuisine.

    他研發出了一套非常前衛的佳餚

  • A guy in England called Heston Blumenthal,

    在英國的Heston Blumenthal

  • he's developed his avant-garde cuisine.

    他也研發出自己的一套前衛美食

  • None of the techniques that these people have developed

    而這些人在過去二十年來

  • over the course of the last 20 years

    研發的烹飪技術沒有記載在

  • is in any of those books.

    任何一本烹飪相關的書籍裡

  • None of them are taught in cooking schools.

    這些技術也沒有在烹飪學校教授

  • In order to learn them, you have to go work in those restaurants.

    想要學習這些技術,你必須在這些餐廳裡工作

  • And finally,

    還有就是

  • there's the old way of viewing food

    對於食物的傳統概念

  • is the old way.

    產生出傳統的烹飪方式

  • And so a few years ago -- fours years ago, actually --

    幾年以前--事實上就是四年前--

  • I set out to say, is there a way

    我試問我們是否有一種

  • we can communicate science and technique and wonder?

    能將科學、烹飪技術和好奇心三者結合的方法?

  • Is there a way we can show people food

    是否能以一種前所未見的方式

  • in a way they have not seen it before?

    讓我們將食物呈現在眾人眼前?

  • So we tried, and I'll show you what we came up with.

    而我們嘗試了,待會兒我會展現成果給各位看

  • This is a picture called a cutaway.

    這張圖片叫做剖面圖

  • This is actually the first picture I took in the book.

    這也是我書裡的第一張圖

  • The idea here is to explain what happens

    這張圖說明了

  • when you steam broccoli.

    水蒸花椰菜時的實際情況

  • And this magic view allows you to see

    這神奇的視角讓人能看清楚

  • all of what's happening

    水蒸花椰菜時的

  • while the broccoli steams.

    所有情形

  • Then each of the different little pieces around it

    圖片周圍的文字方塊

  • explain some fact.

    給予一些解釋

  • And the hope was two-fold.

    我們希望做到兩點

  • One is you can actually explain what happens when you steam broccoli.

    其一是能真的解釋水蒸花椰菜的情況

  • But the other thing is that maybe we could seduce people

    另一點就是說不定我們可以引起人們對於

  • into stuff that was a little more technical,

    和他們平常的做法比起來

  • maybe a little bit more scientific, maybe a little bit more chef-y

    更技術化,比較科學,比較專業的

  • than they otherwise would have.

    烹調的興趣

  • Because with that beautiful photo,

    因為利用這美麗的圖片

  • maybe I can also package this little box here

    也許我還能利用這裡的文字方塊

  • that talks about how steaming and boiling

    來描述蒸和煮

  • actually take different amounts of time.

    實際上會用上不同的時間

  • Steaming ought to be faster.

    用蒸的應該會快些

  • It turns out it isn't because of something called film condensation,

    原來這不是叫做薄膜凝結

  • and this explains that.

    這可以說明一切

  • Well, that first cutaway picture worked,

    而第一張剖面圖奏效了

  • so we said, "Okay, let's do some more."

    所以我們決定「好,我們多做一點」

  • So here's another one.

    這是另一張

  • We discovered why woks are the shape they are.

    我們發現為什麼炒菜鍋是這樣的形狀

  • This shaped wok doesn't work very well;

    這樣形狀的鍋子不是很好用

  • this caught fire three times.

    這鍋子起火了三次

  • But we had a philosophy,

    不過我們有一個原則

  • which is it only has to look good for a thousandth of a second.

    就是只要東西能有千分之一秒好看就行了

  • (Laughter)

    (笑聲)

  • And one of our canning cutaways.

    我們其中一個罐頭的剖面圖

  • Once you start cutting things in half, you kind of get carried away,

    一旦你開始把東西都切成兩半,你就停不下來了

  • so you see we cut the jars in half as well as the pan.

    所以各位看到我們把酒瓶及鍋子都切成兩半

  • And each of these text blocks

    裡面每個文字方塊

  • explains a key thing that's going on.

    解釋了每個發生的關鍵事物

  • In this case, boiling water canning

    這裡是煮沸罐裝食品

  • is for canning things that are already pretty acidic.

    來罐裝已經是醃漬過的事物

  • You don't have to heat them up as hot

    你就不需要把它完全加熱到

  • as you would something you do pressure canning

    像你要製作壓力罐頭那樣高溫

  • because bacterial spores can't grow in the acid.

    因為細菌孢子無法在這樣(酸)的環境中生長

  • So this is great for pickled vegetables,

    所以這種灌裝方式適合醃製的蔬菜

  • which is what we're canning here.

    我們這裡展示的就是罐裝蔬菜

  • Here's our hamburger cutaway.

    這是我們的漢堡剖面圖

  • One of our philosophies in the book

    我們在書中提到的一個理念是

  • is that no dish

    沒有哪一道菜餚

  • is really intrinsically any better than any other dish.

    是真的從根本上比其他菜好

  • So you can lavish

    所以你可以大展身手

  • all the same care, all the same technique,

    用相同的方式,相同的技術

  • on a hamburger

    來製作漢堡

  • as you would on some much more fancy dish.

    如同你烹調出其他豐盛的美饌

  • And if you do lavish as much technique as possible,

    如果你使用越多的豪華的烹調技術

  • and you try to make the highest quality hamburger,

    來試圖烹煮出最高級的漢堡

  • it gets to be a little bit involved.

    這就需要投入更多心思

  • The New York Times ran a piece

    紐約時報在我的書延期時

  • after my book was delayed

    寫了一篇報導

  • and it was called "The Wait for the 30-Hour Hamburger

    標題叫做「費工三十小時的漢堡

  • Just Got Longer."

    又得等更久了」

  • Because our hamburger recipe, our ultimate hamburger recipe,

    因為我們的漢堡配方,我們的終極漢堡配方

  • if you make the buns and you marinate the meat and you do all this stuff,

    如果一個人要自己做出麵包和醃漬肉和其他所有的事情

  • it does take about 30 hours.

    這的確需要花上三十個小時

  • Of course, you're not actually working the whole time.

    當然你並非真的三十個小時都在煮菜

  • Most of the time is kind of sitting there.

    大部分的時間都是在等待

  • The point of this cutaway

    這幅剖面圖的重點是

  • is to show people a view of hamburgers they haven't seen before

    要呈現一個前所未見的漢堡樣貌給眾人

  • and to explain the physics of hamburgers

    並解釋有關漢堡的物理資訊

  • and the chemistry of hamburgers,

    和漢堡的化學資訊

  • because, believe it or not, there is something to the physics and chemistry --

    因為信不信由你,這當中的確有物理和化學的事

  • in particular, those flames underneath the burger.

    特別是,烤漢堡肉的火焰

  • Most of the characteristic char-grilled taste

    大多數的炭烤香味

  • doesn't come from the wood or the charcoal.

    並非來自木材或木炭

  • Buying mesquite charcoal will not actually make that much difference.

    即便買豆蔻灌木的木炭實際上也不會有太大的差別

  • Mostly it comes from fat pyrolyzing, or burning.

    香味主要是因為脂肪高溫分解或燃燒

  • So it's the fat that drips down and flares up

    肉裡的脂肪滴下來經過火烤

  • that causes the characteristic taste.

    才造就出如此特殊的風味

  • Now you might wonder, how do we make these cutaways?

    各位也許想知道我們是如何製作這些剖面圖的?

  • Most people assume we use Photoshop.

    大部分的人以為我們運用Photoshop編輯影像

  • And the answer is: no, not really;

    但答案不是這樣

  • we use a machine shop.

    我們使用機器來製作這些影像

  • And it turns out, the best way to cut things in half

    事實證明,要做出東西變成兩半的樣子的最好的方法

  • is to actually cut them in half.

    就是你真的得把他們都切成兩半

  • So we have two halves of one of the best kitchens in the world.

    所以我們有"一半"世界上最好的廚房之一

  • (Laughter)

    (笑聲)

  • We cut a $5,000 restaurant oven in half.

    我們把一個價值五千塊的專業烤箱也切對半

  • The manufacturer said,

    製造商問說

  • "What would it take for you to cut one in half?"

    「你把烤箱切成兩半要做什麼用?」

  • I said, "It would have to show up free."

    我說「因為要讓拍攝沒有阻礙。」

  • And so it showed up, we used it a little while,

    所以就像這樣,我們有使用一會兒

  • we cut it in half.

    我們把東西切一半

  • Now you can also see a little bit how we did some of these shots.

    各位可以看到我們是如何拍攝這些影像的

  • We would glue a piece of Pyrex

    我們會粘上一塊

  • or heat-resistant glass in front.

    耐高溫玻璃在前面

  • We used a red, very high-temperature silicon to do that.

    我們使用了紅色耐高溫的矽膠做到這一點

  • The great thing is, when you cut something in half,

    優點是,當你把東西切一半

  • you have another half.

    你有另一半的部分

  • So you photograph that in exactly the same position,

    然後就能在相同的位置拍攝

  • and then you can substitute in --

    然後把東西替代進去

  • and that part does use Photoshop -- just the edges.

    這部分有使用Photoshop,但只有邊緣的部分

  • So it's very much like in a Hollywood movie

    這和好萊塢的電影非常相似

  • where a guy flies through the air, supported by wires,

    像人要利用鋼索從空中飛越

  • and then they take the wires away digitally

    利用數位編輯把鋼索的部分修飾掉

  • so you're flying through the air.

    就變成真的從空中飛越

  • In most cases, though, there was no glass.

    大部分的圖是沒有使用到玻璃的

  • Like for the hamburger, we just cut the damn barbecue.

    像剛才的漢堡圖,我們就只是把烤爐切半

  • And so those coals that kept falling off the edge,

    所以木炭就不斷從邊緣的部分掉落

  • we kept having to put them back up.

    我們必須不斷把木炭再放回去

  • But again, it only has to work for a thousandth of a second.

    不過同樣的,照片只要千分之一秒看起來好看即可

  • The wok shot caught fire three times.

    炒菜鍋則起火了三次

  • What happens when you have your wok cut in half

    當我們把鐵鍋切半後

  • is the oil goes down into the fire

    油不斷流到火裡

  • and whoosh!

    然後霍地大火起來

  • One of our cooks lost his eyebrows that way.

    我們其中一位廚師因此失去他的眉毛

  • But hey, they grow back.

    但還好,眉毛後來長回來

  • In addition to cutaways,

    除了剖面圖外

  • we also explain physics.

    我們也解釋了物理現象

  • This is Fourier's law of heat conduction.

    這是傅立葉的熱傳導定律

  • It's a partial differential equation.

    這是一個偏微分的方程式

  • We have the only cookbook in the world

    我們有了世界上唯一一本

  • that has partial differential equations in it.

    刊載偏微分方程式的烹飪書

  • But to make them palatable,

    為了符合整體

  • we cut it out of a steel plate and put it in front of a fire

    我們像這樣用鋼板剪出形狀

  • and photographed it like this.

    放在火焰前面拍攝

  • We've got lots of little tidbits in the book.

    我們在書裡也寫了很多的小花絮

  • Everybody knows that your various appliances

    大家都知道

  • have wattage, right?

    各種電器都有瓦數,是吧?

  • But you probably don't know that much about James Watt.

    但你可能不知道太多關於James Watt的事

  • But now you will; we put a biography of James Watt in.

    但你現在會知道;我們把James Watt的生平也放進書裡

  • It's a little couple paragraphs

    只是幾段文字敘述

  • to explain why we call that unit of heat the watt,

    解釋為什麼我們把熱的單位叫做瓦特

  • and where he got his inspiration.

    還有他是從何處得到靈感

  • It turned out he was hired by a Scottish distillery

    原來他受僱於蘇格蘭的酒廠

  • to understand why they were burning so damn much peat

    明白他們為什麼燃燒如此多的泥炭

  • to distill the whiskey.

    來提煉的威士忌

  • We also did a lot of calculation.

    我們也做了很多的計算

  • I personally wrote thousands of lines of code

    我自己為了這烹飪書

  • to write this cookbook.

    寫了上千行代碼

  • Here's a calculation

    這裡有一個計算式

  • that shows how the intensity of a barbecue,

    顯示了燒烤強度

  • or other radiant heat source, goes

    或其他輻射熱源

  • as you move away from it.

    依照不同距離列出數據

  • So as you move vertically away from this surface,

    所以當表面垂直移開

  • the heat falls off.

    熱能就會減低

  • As you move side to side, it moves off.

    當您移動一邊到另一邊,就離開熱源

  • That horn-shaped region

    這喇叭形區域

  • is what we call the sweet spot.

    就是我們所說的熱點

  • That's the place where the heat is even to within 10 percent.

    這地方的熱能變化能保持在10%以內

  • So that's the place where you really want to cook.

    這地方是你真的想用來做飯的

  • And it's got this funny horn-shaped thing,

    而且它有這個有趣的喇叭狀的東西

  • which as far as I know, again,

    這據我所知

  • the first cookbook to ever do this.

    也是首次有烹飪書紀錄這件事

  • Now it may also be the last cookbook that ever does it.

    也可能是最後一次有烹飪書這麼做

  • You know, there's two ways

    各位知道,有兩種方式

  • you can make a product.

    可以做出產品

  • You can do lots of market research

    可以做大量的市場調查

  • and do focus groups

    鎖定關鍵族群

  • and figure out what people really want,

    了解大眾真正要的

  • or you can just kind of go for it

    或者就是直接去做

  • and make the book you want and hope other people like it.

    做一本你想要的書,然後盼望別人也喜歡這本書

  • Here's a step-by-step that shows grinding hamburger.

    這裡有詳細的步驟說明如何磨碎漢堡肉

  • If you really want great hamburger,

    如果你真想要做出一個美味的漢堡

  • it turns out it makes a difference if you align the grain.

    只要把絞肉做的平整就能有所改變

  • And it's really simple, as you can see here.

    如同各位所見,這相當簡單

  • As it comes out of the grinder, you just have a little tray,

    絞肉從磨碎機出來,你只需要一個小托盤

  • and you just take it off in little passes,

    然後慢慢的拿出來就好

  • build it up, slice it vertically.

    接著疊起來,垂直地切片

  • Here's the final hamburger.

    最後的漢堡成品在此

  • This is the 30-hour hamburger.

    這是費時三十小時的漢堡

  • We make every aspect of this burger.

    我們製作出漢堡所需要的每一種材料

  • The lettuce has got liquid smoke infused into it.

    生菜也用煙熏調味料熏過了

  • We also have things about how to make the bun.

    我們也有做漢堡麵包所需的材料

  • There's a mushroom, ketchup -- it goes on and on.

    有蘑菇,番茄醬 --還有很多別的

  • Now watch closely. This is popcorn. I'll explain it here.

    現在仔細看,這是爆米花,我待會兒會解釋

  • The popcorn is illustrating

    爆米花在物理學上

  • a key thing in physics.

    可以說明很關鍵的事

  • Isn't that beautiful?

    這漂亮吧

  • We have a very high-speed camera,

    我們用高速攝影拍攝

  • which we had lots of fun with on the book.

    這也讓我們從這本書上獲得許多樂趣

  • The key physics principle here

    這裡的關鍵的物理原則

  • is when water boils to steam

    是當水變成蒸氣

  • it expands by a factor of 1,600.

    會膨脹1,600倍

  • That's what's happening to the water inside that popcorn.

    所以玉米粒裡頭水分是這麼變化的

  • So it's a great illustration of that.

    這是一幅很精彩的插圖

  • Now I'm going to close with a video that is kind of unusual.

    最後我要用一段特別的影片做結尾

  • We have a chapter on gels.

    我們的書裡有一個篇章在談凝膠

  • And because people watch Mythbusters and CSI,

    因為大家會看流言終結者和CSI犯罪現場的節目

  • I thought, well, let's put in a recipe

    於是,我們也把這放進食譜裡

  • for a ballistics gelatin.

    這是彈道明膠

  • Well, if you have a high-speed camera,

    如果你有高速攝影機

  • and you have a block of ballistics gelatin lying around,

    然後又有一塊彈道明膠

  • pretty soon somebody does this.

    很快就有人拿來實驗了

  • (Gasps)

    (喘氣)

  • Now the amazing thing here

    驚人的事發生了

  • is that a ballistics gelatin is supposed to mimic

    彈道明膠能模擬出

  • what happens to human flesh when you get shot -- that's why you shouldn't get shot.

    人體肌肉受到槍擊的模樣 -- 這是為何我們不能受到槍擊

  • The other amazing thing is, when this ballistics gelatin comes down,

    更驚人的是,當這塊彈道明膠落下時

  • it falls back down as a nice block.

    還是完好如初像磚塊一樣

  • Anyway, here's the book.

    總之,書在這裡

  • Here it is.

    就在這兒

  • 2,438 pages.

    有2,438頁

  • And they're nice big pages too.

    裡面有精美的大圖片

  • (Applause)

    (掌聲)

  • A friend of mine complained

    我的一位朋友和我抱怨

  • that this was too big and too pretty to go in the kitchen,

    這書太大本也太漂亮不適合拿進廚房

  • so there's a sixth volume

    所以這一套共有六冊

  • that has washable, waterproof paper.

    還是用可清洗的防水紙印製的

  • (Applause)

    (掌聲)

So I'm going to tell you a little bit

我想和各位談談

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