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As the sun rises, one of the most diverse countries in the world wakes up. Many tragic
events have taken place here. But when you take a closer look, an incredible life force
becomes apparent. The beauty, spirit and variance of the country and the people is worth celebrating.
Ethiopia has an abundance of ecological niches with amazing diversity.
In the east you find one of the hottest places on earth. The Danakil depression is a vast
dessert 100m below sea level with salt plains, colorful hot springs and several active volcanoes.
In the west, the rainforest is still filled with bountiful life. It is the only remaining
rainforest in north eastern Africa and it's decreasing in size every year.
The sof Omar cave In the southeast almost looks man made with it's great sandstone entrance.
In the south the animals enjoy the rivers, lakes, and savannas.
In the center the great highlands rise up. Nicknamed the roof of Africa they reach altitudes
exceeding 5,000m. They provide a unique habitat for many species of animals not found elsewhere.
It was in these mountains that the first capital was founded and the Christian civilization
started. It is a land of many legends and mysteries. The rock hewn churches of Lalibela
puzzle scientist still to this day.
People have adapted for millennia in their vastly different surroundings. This has resulted
in a flora of cultures, languages and traditions.
The specialized skills and knowledge they have acquired over hundreds of years have
kept many people isolated until the end of the 20th century.
We will visit some of the people, and the land they live in, in search of that powerful
life force, in their lives beyond the headlines.
Remains and many tombs of the old emperors are open to the public in Axum.
The Axumite empire went to its grave in the 9th century.
Some 300 years later, in Lalibela, another emperor had great impact on history.
In what appears to be a normal mountain top, you find great ancient mysteries.
Beta Ghiorgis - the house of St. George is one of hundreds of rock hewn churches in Ethiopia.
Each one cut straight out of the volcanic mountain.
Every detail carved out by hand produces a structure that is hard to imagine as one single
piece of rock.
This historical site is as living as the old Christian faith you find in the people coming
here to worship.
They make their pilgrimage here in the thousands to witness the mystical rituals during pre-dawn
mass.
The passage to the church entrance leads down through narrow paths and tunnels.
Along the way people are gathered to celebrate mass and to receive their blessings.
Christianity was introduced to the Ethiopians in the 4th century. Since then, music has
been crucial to the survival of the church through times of hardship. It still plays
a central role in the ceremonies and creates an atmosphere from a different time.
In the caves chiseled out in the rock around the churches priests and monks practice the
ancient songs.
Many of the monks live in the walls around the churches. Small caves and chambers have
been cut out to provide sleeping quarters.
Connected by tunnels and narrow passages Lalibela has 11 of the greatest rock churches in Ethiopia.
It is still a mystery how these churches were created , but most Ethiopians agree. The myth
of king Lalibela holds the answer.
In the 12th century A Prince was born in Roha, the old name for Lalibela.
The reigning monarch grew jealous and poisoned him.
In his struggle with death, the prince was brought to heaven where his true purpose was
revealed. He was to live and become king. In return he was to build 11 churches unlike
any built before. As soon as he was crowned king, he set out
to fulfill his task. The work was carried out side by side by men and angels.
Others say that the king visited Jerusalem and that the angels of the legend were crusaders
helping to build a second Jerusalem.
Just like in Axum, it is claimed that the lost ark is kept here. In the holiest of each
church there is a priest who has devoted his life to protect it.
It is hard to know what is fact and what is legend but one thing is certain, incredible
skill and knowledge were needed to create these magnificent churches.
Another place where the ark is claimed to be guarded is in lake Tana - the source of
the blue Nile. Some say that the Jews who followed Menelik
from Jerusalem stayed on the 37 islands in the lake. There they have guarded it ever
since and that is how the Falasha Jews came to Ethiopia. The Falasha Jews are yet another
mystery. They still practice the old Jewish traditions dating back 2000 years.
Some say that they are pagans who converted to Judaism and others say that they are the
lost Israeli tribe of Dan.
The water from Lake Tana makes its way down the mountains passing the largest water falls
of Ethiopia.
It is named Tis Issat - water that smokes, At the Blue Nile falls the water drops 50m
on its way down through Ethiopia and Sudan to Egypt.
The river cuts a winding path through the highlands, as deep as the Grand Canyon, on
its journey to the Mediterranean sea 5,000 km away.
Not far from Lake Tana is Gondar. This was the capital from the middle of the 17th century.
It was founded by Emperor Fascileados He built a palace for himself and every successor followed
in his footsteps and constructed castles in the same compound.
The castles are said to have been covered in ivory and gold at their prime.
Gondar remained the capital to the end of the 19th century.
The reason for moving from both Axum and Gondar was the shortage of fire wood.
The emperor Menelik and his wife Taitu Spent some time in a military camp on the Entoto
mountain where they felt it was ideal to live. They called it the "New flower" Addis Ababa.
At this time the fast-growing eucalyptus tree was imported from Australia and firewood was
produced on a greater scale.
Addis Ababa is a increasingly westernized city with extreme contrasts. New is mixed
with old and poverty is side by side with abundance.
This is where the last emperor in the Solomonic dynasty ended his life. Haile Selassie was
not only an emperor, to many he is still a god.
RasTaferi Mekonnen was born in 1892. When he was crowned emperor in 1930 he was
given the name Haile selassie
According to he Rastafarians the prophesy from the old testament was fulfilled. They
had found their god.
When the Italians invaded Ethiopia in1936 Rastafarians all around the world protested.
As thanks for their support Haile Selassie gave them some land in Ethiopia to call their
own.
Rastafarians from different parts of the world have moved to their new homeland to create
a new world with their faith as a cornerstone in society.
But the Rastafarians are a very small part of the population. Most of the people live
in the highlands.
The majestic highlands cover the majority of the Ethiopian countryside.
Two thirds of the country is situated on altitudes above 2000 m.
The altitude has one big advantage. Malaria is not a problem in many areas. But farming
this land is no easy task.
The population has exploded the last 50 years and there are now more than 80 million people
in the country. Every fertile piece of land is used.
The mountains look like a three dimensional patchwork of fields climbing up the slopes.
In the horn of Africa Cushitic, Semitic, and Nilotic people have intertwined creating an
amazing diversity of people. There are more than 70 different ethnicities with their own
languages and cultures only in Ethiopia
The Amharas and Tigrai people live in the highlands. Together with the Oromos they make
up three quarters of the population in the country. Since almost half of the population
is under the age of fifteen the children start working in the fields at an early age.
The Amharas are farmers and still work their land the old style. They plow with the help
of oxen and harvesting is done by hand.
A common crop is the local grain teff which grows well at these altitudes.
Livestock is used to thresh the harvest before the seeds are separated and ready to use or
to be sold.
Another big source of income for the highland people is raising livestock. There are more
livestock here than anywhere else in Africa.
Further up in the highlands there are some 25 peaks reaching altitudes over 4000m.
There are times when snow falls up here. This area has been nicknamed the alps of Africa.
It is not hard to understand why the Italians felt at home in the alpine surroundings.
But it is not only people who like the unique African climate.
The Galeda baboon is also fond of the area.
There are more than 20 species of animals not found anywhere else than in Ethiopia.
Most of them are birds but one of the endemic species is the Galeda baboon.
They live in larger groups than most other primates and feed primarily on grass.
You can find groups with up to 600 animals.
Their long fur keeps them warm in the cold nights they spend on cliffs far from predators.
They are very social animals and they seem to know how to enjoy life as they graze away.
The Galedas always feed as a group. In the drier part of the year they dig for roots
and eat herbs.
It does look a little bit dry at the moment but the dry season is coming to an end.
Suddenly one day, they come blowing in.
Life, in the form of clouds.
If they fail to come it will be a disaster for many.
The rainy season varies tremendously in different parts of the country.
Some areas in the west have eight months of rain a year
In the east you might just have a couple of days of rainfall.
The clouds roll in. Like a blanket they cover the mountains and the whole landscape changes
as the tropical storms build.
Just some weeks after the rains have started the highlands turn green.
It looks like spring has arrived.
But in the east there is still no rain.
In the Danakil desert it hardly ever rains.
This is not just another dry dessert. This is where three continental plates of earths
crust meet.
It is known to geologists as the Afar triple junction.
The continental breakup produces a valley caused by the sinking of the ground when the
earth pulls apart.
The ground is more than 100m below sea level.
The movement also creates cracks, faults, hot springs and volcanoes in the region.
The sulfur and potassium salts spraying up in the hot springs create this multicolored
landscape.
Together with the acid lime green ponds it looks like a different planet.
The active springs are usually white yellow, while older springs turn rust-colored from
oxidation
The rock on top of the hot springs is filled with holes like a sponge which makes it a
dangerous place to travel.
When a pond dries up it leaves beautiful shapes of salt and minerals.
There are even lakes formed from the springs with decorative salt deposits along the edges.
With the geyser and yellow upwelling the lake almost looks like a cauldron filled with a
bubbling witches' brew.
But this is not the only storybook location around here.
Just 150 km away there is a black mountain standing some 600m above the desert floor.
You might expect Bilbo Baggins to come climbing the mountain at any second.
The name Erta Ale translates in to the mountain that smokes.
As the sun sets it is clear where the name comes from.
This is one of the most active volcanoes with the longest existing lava lake in the world
The surface can reach temperatures of 1000C when the lava explodes.
The lake goes through cycles. The surface can smolder for hours before the next burst
of activity.
The last major eruption was in 2005 when thousands of people were evacuated.
No one knows when the next eruption is coming.
The water from the highland rain is approaching the Danakil.
Billions of gallons of water rush down to the desert.
Here, below sea level it will vanish into thin air, leaving a sea of salt.
With constant winds reaching temperatures of 50 degrees Celsius, One might not expect
to find people here.
But this is where the Afars work.
In blazing sun they break up the salt from the ground.
It is cut up and shaped into blocks that can be sold in the highlands.
The blocks are loaded on camels and transported 150 km up the 2,000m high mountains to the
salt market.
The Danakil has been Afar land for thousands of years.
They are nomadic people with an amazing aptitude for heat and drought.
Their huts are dome shaped, made from thin branches covered with animal hide or palm
mats.
The settlements are enclosed with acacia thorns to keep predators out.
The huts can be packed up, and moved in less than a day.
Since the ground gets boiling hot from the sun they have beds raised from the ground
to keep cool at night.
The women spend the hot hours of the day in the hut preparing meals and looking after
the small children. This is often the only place to find relief
from the scorching sun.
The women are in charge of the family since the men are away for long periods of time
looking after livestock.
The Camels represent freedom to the afars and are never ridden but rather used as pack
animals. They are crucial for survival in this harsh terrain to carry huts, firewood
or anything else that is needed. One camel can be worth 50 - 60 goats. A large
camel herd will provide great wealth and esteem.
Afars are commonly known as violent people. Every boy gets armed at an early age and is
raised to handle weapons. They are known as the warrior people. But behind that image
most Afars are actually quite peaceful people living from their livestock.
They are very close to their animals. At birth each newborn child is given a female animal
from each species. This is the start of the herd that they will need to provide for themselves.
The animals live in the settlement and some come into the huts. They are part of the family,
even though they don't seem to like it all the time.
The men milk the cows. To get the cows to come and be still during milking the Afars
pour some milk on a calf skin. The cows follow the scent of the skin which makes them calm
and easier to milk. A rope is tied around the legs just in case.
Now and then a little milk is added to the skin
If there are no skins available the cows will settle for some milk straight up.
The Afars love milk. Not just a little glass, but a lot of milk. Everybody drinks it.
You have to start early to get used to cow's milk, but mommy's milk is still better.
As the temperatures drop to a more humane level the women start preparing the other
staple food, cornbread. To bake the bread they use a clay pit which
they heat up with a fire. The corn is pounded and ground. They mix it
with some water and ground it some more into a dough.
The dough is shaped into the right size and gently patted to the sides of the clay oven.
The oven is covered, to keep the heat in, and left to bake. In forty minutes hot cornbread
can be enjoyed with some fresh milk.
After a days work the desert fills with drum beats and singing as the Afars enjoy the somewhat
cooler nights.
The extreme variations in nature have shaped many cultures in Ethiopia.
The hot springs of the desert have become part of the Afar identity.
Most springs are poisonous but in this oasis there are fresh water springs large enough
to create a small river.
It looks cool and refreshing but the water is well above 45 degrees Celsius.
Since water is a valuable commodity in the desert, the Afars protect the springs as if
they were holy.
They have become part of the local culture.
Further south in the Bale mountains the nature has had an impact on religions as well.
This is the Webbe river.
A long time ago, some of the water found a new path through the sandstone.
As time passed, it carved out a cave system big enough to capture the whole flow of the
river.
The Sof Omar caves were formed.
It is one of the largest natural cave systems in Africa.
The polished rock walls and sandstone pillars reflecting in the surface of the river create
a serene atmosphere.
Locals believe that something so beautiful must have been shaped by God himself.
The beauty of this natural wonder has influenced several religions. In some local religions
the caves are used as a place of worship and sacrifice.
The caves were named Sof Omar after a Muslim holy man.
About half of the population of Ethiopia is Muslim. They consider these caves sacred as
well.
Another sacred place for the Muslims is Harar.
Harar was a major trading center with the Arabian peninsula and the far east for centuries
.
Islam came to Ethiopia in the 7th century from the middle-east and Harar became one
of the first Muslim cities of Africa.
A wall was built around the town to keep enemies out.
Within the wall there is said to be 99 mosques.
The colorful people and architecture make it a city, different from any other in the
country.
Christians and Muslims have been living side by side for over a millennia in Ethiopia.
Many feel that having faith is more important than what religion you belong to.
In Harar the hyena man is perceived as a religious man with a God given gift of talking to the
hyenas.
This gift has been passed down to him through generations.
For many, it is yet another testimony of how powerful strong faith can be.
There are quite a few wild hyenas left in Ethiopia but many other large animals are
hard to find.
The wild hogs are safer since the lions and other large predators have become so scarce.
The growing number of people are farming more land and the animals lose their habitats
In less than a hundred years most elephants, giraffes and zebras have disappeared.
The numbers of Oryx and other antelopes are declining even within the national parks since
grazing land is needed for livestock..
The animals you still find in abundance are birds.
In the whole of Africa there are some 2,000 species of birds. The unique variation in
climate and habitats has made Ethiopia into a bird haven and home to about 900 of those
species.
More than 20 of them can not be found anywhere else in the world.
In the southern part of the Ethiopian Rift Valley there are a number of lakes . Some
lakes are deep, others are shallow.
There are salt lakes and soda water lakes. Each one providing their own unique habitat
for the birds.
The surrounding nature varies from desert and savannah to lush areas around the water.
Wherever you look there are more birds.
Lake Abiata is home to both the lesser and the greater flamingoes. They come here in
the thousands to feed in the shallow waters.
The majority of the worlds flamingo population is found in east Africa.
Lake Awasa has a large population of the Marabou stork. They are probably some of the ugliest
birds around but they are impressive standing 1,5m tall with a wingspan of almost 3m.
Among all the different birds there is one that stands out by its characteristic sound.
The African fish eagle. With its powerful wings reaching 1,5m they can catch fish as
heavy as themselves.
lake Shamo looks peaceful at a distance.
But when you get out on the lake the nickname azzo gabaya - the crocodile market - makes
sense.
There are more crocodiles here than anywhere else in Ethiopia.
That does not scare the birds away. The lake is filled with life.
People here are more scared of hippos than crocodiles since they are strong enough to
tip over a boat.
The Pelicans can be found in great numbers.
Their favorite feeding ground is where the river enters the lake.
It turns into a feeding frenzy when the pelicans work together to catch the fish .
But they always have to keep a watchful eye out for the crocodiles.
When they move, they move fast.
In the mountains not far from lake Shamo there is a different kind of market. It looks like
most other markets in Ethiopia but there is one big difference.
Mostly cotton and fabrics are sold here. This is were the Dorse people do business.
The word Dorse means weavers. It is not clear if the people are named after the word or
if the craft is named after the people, but it fits.
The boys are taught at an early age how to weave. At the age of eight or nine they are
ready to start making their own fabrics.
By the time they are men they have mastered the art and are known as the best weavers
you can find.
The looms are very simple but with skilled hands and feet they work incredibly well.
The women are responsible for turning the cotton into the thread that is used to create
the beautiful fabrics. They have the reputation of having the best
quality and are sought after all over the country.
When the women are not busy spinning thread they also provide the food.
The staple food is bread made from the false banana plant - called Inset.
The edible part of the stem is removed from the fibers and left to ferment.
There are still plenty of fibers left which have to be cut into small pieces before it
can be digested.
They make flat cakes which are wrapped in the inset leaves and ready to bake in the
fire.
The prominent part weaving plays in the Dorse culture can even be seen in their huts.
They actually weave the Elephant-shape out of bamboo.
The eyes are designed to let the smoke out and the trunk ends in a doorway.
It takes two men several months to weave the three layers of the hut.
The Inner structure is made from split bamboo woven around the thicker bamboo skeleton.
The whole hut is covered with a layer of bamboo leaves to keep the rain out.
The smoke from the fire will keep most parasites away but termites will still damage the part
along the ground. That is why the Dorse build their huts more than 30 feet high. It allows
them to, every 3-5 years, cut away termite damage. They can repeat this procedure many
times before the hut gets too low to live in.
The Dorse people say that a well built hut can last you a lifetime.
Before the Dorse farmed enough cotton on their own they bought it from the neighboring Konso
people. Even with the short distance and the working relationship between them, it is amazing
to see the differences in their cultures.
The Konso live in the mountains as well but their villages look worlds apart. They build
them on mountaintops with stone and wood fencing to keep enemies out.
The characteristic villages are well protected and beautiful at the same time.
Each family has a smaller settlement within the village.
A well crafted grass roof is a trademark for a proper konso hut. They decorate it with
clay pots and berries.
They are hardworking people but that does not stop them from enjoying home made beer
together. It is pretty common in a konso village to see a group of people discussing important
issues while drinking the gray goopy beer. They consider it to be good nourishment and
the Konso way to relax before working hard in the fields again.
All around the villages, stone terraces have been built to prevent erosion. The konso were
the first to farm the mountain slopes like this centuries ago.
You only find the Konso in the highlands. When you reach the Omo valley the settlements
end.
Over 20 different groups of people have coexisted here for centuries. This valley was closed
to the rest of the world, just a couple of decades ago.
When anthropologists came here in the 1970s many people had never heard of a land called
Ethiopia.
These are the Mursi. They stay in primitive settlements and live from herding cattle and
growing crops.
The women get their lower lip pierced at an early age and over a period of years it is
stretched to produce this characteristic look.
There are several theories to why this was adopted. It may have been to discourage slave
traders from taking them, or to prevent evil to enter the body.
Today the size of the lip decides the number of cattle you have to offer the woman's family
to ask for her hand in marriage.
The different groups in the Omo valley like the Hamer, Surma, Bodi and Mursi, have been
in conflict with each other as long as anyone here can remember.
They are known as fierce warriors and display their scars with pride.
The valley has been turned in to a national park and tourists come here to view the different
people. It has created an eerie atmosphere in the valley.
The trips that are arranged are almost like the typical safaris with the difference that
the cameras are aimed at humans.
The great interest in these fascinating people is very understandable. But in some of their
eyes you find a sad but angry look of defeat. Omo Valley is not as wild as it once was.
There are some areas left that have not been tamed, yet.
It is estimated that about 50% of Ethiopia was covered by forest a century ago. Today
that number is down to 3.
Most of that forest is found in the west.
This is where you find the last unchartered wilderness in Ethiopia - and the only remaining
rainforest.
There are no extensive studies made on the plants and animals you find here. It is still
a land of unknown discoveries.
It is home to the Majang, They had almost no contact with outside people until the end
of the 20th century. This is the first time they have ever been portrayed in a documentary.
No one knows just how long they have been isolated in the forest. They lived spread
out in small settlements not bothering their neighbors.
The reason for their isolation is that neighboring people did not have the knowledge to survive
here.
The only livestock that could last in the forest was chicken and hunting is hard in
the thick undergrowth.
It is like a natural maze only majangs know how to navigate, which made it a perfect place
for hiding.
The only way to survive was the shifting cultivation that the majangs practice.
The Majangs are known as the honey people. Bee keeping is, after shifting cultivation,
considered to be the most important activity to them.
Logs are hollowed out to create bee hives which are then tied together high up in the
trees.
The area around the hive is claimed by the owner and called 'Jang Nat' - My wilderness.
The actual bee colony on the other hand can never be owned. Majangs only claim ownership
over things found or which have required labor to produce.
Boys start bee keeping at an early age. By the time they grow up the number of hives
can be over a 100.
This is not the season for harvesting but the men are willing to show how it is done.
Normally they climb the trees after sunset when, as the Majangs say, The bees do not
sting so badly.
Climbing 20-30m in the dark with angry bees swarming around is risky. Many get injured
and some falls are fatal. But the Majangs show no fear.
Sticks are tied together and set on fire to produce smoke to calm the bees.
A calebass for the honey and a new leaf plug is brought to replace the old one.
The old leaf plug is removed slightly and smoke is blown into the hive to stun the bees.
Many bee stings are expected and considered comical by on looking Majangs. Especially
if they are in funny places like the tongue or armpit.
The leaf plug is removed and the honey can be harvested.
Some men harvest over 600kg of honey a year but the average is about a third of that.
About half the honey is sold. The rest is consumed either as food or as honey wine.
Honey wine is prepared by the men. The best time to enjoy it, according to the Majangs,
is at dawn when uninvited guests are few.
It is only shared with close friends and relatives in the settlement.
Each settlement consists of at least one male and one female, usually a couple but it can
also be friends or relatives.
There is a female hut a male hut and a cooking hut. There are also smaller huts for children
since they move from their mothers at the age of seven. Now they are almost adult and
expected to help with work and taking care of the babies.
Marriage does not exist here as it does in most cultures. Their view of marriage is simple.
The man prepares fields for the woman and the woman prepares hot meals for the man.
If either one stops, there is no reason for them to stay together. The woman is only expected
to cook one hot meal a day so if a man wants more he is free to prepare fields for another
woman.
Their word for family is Tajan among which means "same wine" . Family consists of the
people you share wine with.
The existence that Majangs have enjoyed for centuries was threatened by a plant that grows
wild in the forest - Coffee. Well not the actual coffee but people interested in growing
coffee on their land. Luckily, for the Majangs and the forest, the altitude is too low to
produce high quality coffee beans here.
The majangs use a different part of the plant for a traditional drink. They roast the leaves
to make a drink called Kari. They say that it cleans your mouth of bad taste and is good
in the mornings.
This drink is only shared by neighbors. The word neighborhood is in Majang "Kari among"
translating into - same coffee The neighbors share everything they have in
order to survive. They are more important than relatives living far away and almost
considered family.
The forest is filled with everything the Majangs need. They say that the only thing required
to survive is a machete. The skills needed, and knowledge about their environment, is
already passed down to each Majang.
This is a Tangi tree. It is not found outside the forest and is one of the many plants with
a specific purpose. It is the blanket tree.
Wooden sticks shaped with the essential machete are used to peel the bark off like a sock.
Today a baby blanket is going to be made.
When the blanket is peeled to the required length, they removed the outer bark and the
acidic sap needs to be rinsed out before the blanket can be dried and used .
On most occasions the Majangs seem to really enjoy life and today is no different. Even
while working they sing and laugh on their way down to the river.
When the work is done it is time to relax.
Even the monkeys get some free entertainment before it is their time to say good night
- the monkey way.
Another day is coming to an end and the sun spreads some last light on the majestic landscapes.
These simple stories of people living their normal lives are just a fragment in a continent
bursting with a multitude.
They might not have the easiest, happiest or longest lives. But is hard not to be touched
by the faith and life force that runs through them.
It is easy to see all the misery that makes it to the headlines but hopefully we can remember
the beautiful lives that do exist beyond them and even in them.